8th March day 367

Althoughthe wind had been blowing hard all night when i woke it appeared everything was calm. The sun was even attempting to make an appearance. Whilst making my breakfast i took the opportunity to have a look at the satellite images of the day ahead to see if i could spot anywhere that would be suitable to cross the estuary in hoolley thus saving a days hiking. There were a few possibilities but it all depended on the tides.

Leaving the warehouse i walked through the town when it occurred to me just how many bookshops there were there. It seemed like every other store sold books. Some shops even boasting a coffee shop or cafe inside so you could relax while you browsed the pages of the literature you'd just bought or were thinking of buying.

Back hiking the coast I'd spend the morning crossing salt marshes and fields looking out at the water.  The tide was low and having been warned by megan from the coastguard that the area was prone to soft sand i decided not to risk finding out first hand. This left me with just one option, to make the long hike to the nearest bridge near the town if Newton Stewart. It was quite a hike and with my knee still in discomfort took me hours to get to. What was worse was also knowing I'd have to follow the river for miles back to the coast near the village of Creetown.

Other than a few light showers and a couple if gusts of wind the hike was pleasant enough. Reaching Newton Stewart a little after 2pm i decided to seek out a cafe for a lunch break. I was considering using hoolley to pack raft back to the sea but having seen a few dodgy sections of the river near the mouth of the estuary and a couple of possibly shallow corners i decided again to play it safe and stick to dry land.

Finding a cafe wasn't particularly difficult or time consuming however getting served was. The little coffee shop was somewhat laid back taking over an hour to cook a gammon steak and chips. It was filling though. As i wandered up the high street of this large town and feeling a little parched and in need of an orange juice i came across the black horse pub which where i met marcus, a well travelled local with many a tale of misadventure. After the 4th pint of tenants it was late, very late and time to call it a night.

6th - 7th march

6th March day 365

Exactly 1 year ago on this day at 10am i took the first step of my marathon 6600 mile trek around Britain's coastline. In some ways it feels like an eternity yet in others it seems like only yesterday.  I have walked so far, seen so much, experienced highs and lows and met some phenomenal people. I have stayed in birdhides, bunkers, horse boxes, caves and while sat eating my smooth oats with raspberries i find myself in a coastguards hut. Still having a couple of thousand miles ahead i wonder what the future brings and if this journey as in any way changed me.

One thing i did know for certain though was if I'd carried a map with me yesterday would have probably ended slightly differently. Whilst eating my evening sweet n sour meal i noticed a local area o/s map opened up resting on the desk in front of me. Curiosity got the better of me and i had to take a closer look at the stretch of coast I'd abandoned. Annoyingly i located the track I'd come across and turned left inland towards the road, if I'd have turned right and followed the track towards the sea about a mile later i would have picked up a coastal path that would have taken me right along the cliffs all the way to the isle of Whithorn. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I couldn't turn back the clocks now but for the rest of the evening i was haunted by what ifs and felt a little gutted by not knowing what I'd missed.  My knee was still hurting and well it looked a little swollen and off colour. My injuries were worse than i could have expected and although i knew i needed to take care on the following days hikes i also knew i didn't want to miss any more of this beautiful coastline.

At 9am i was to be meeting with Curtis from the free press. Leaving the coastguard hut behind me i headed down to the harbour for my photo opportunity and interview. Unfortunately Curtis wasn't able to make it but he had called the coffee shop to explain and hold the interview over the phone. It was a shame as  had while walking down decided to ask him for a lift back to where i had left the coast so i could tackle the 4 miles of coastal path I'd missed. It was too far to hike back too so i decided instead to carry on towards Wigtown.

Leaving the coffee shop i went back to following the coast deep down hoping i wouldn't come across any more electrified fences or barbed wire. I didn't have to hike long offroad before i joined a coastal path which in comparison to what i was used to was easy going and whats more even though i often came across electrified fences there were plenty if metal kissing gates that thankfully weren't electrified.

Hiking overthe clifftops was easy enough and meant that i could go easy on my knee which was a little agrivated from the accident the day before. The wind was strong as it howled across the hills and i often found myself having to pay attention to my balance as i was knocked sideways by its tremendous force.

Entering into one field i could see an unusual arch perched ontop of a cliffy outcrop ahead. It looked like a stargate, you know like from the film. As i got closer my opinion didn't change there was something quite astronomical about it. Unfortunately i hadn't found an inter dimensional gateway to the stars it was in fact all that remained of an old castle but even up close it looked like a portal to another realm.

Having investigated the arch closely i continued across the fields on the clifftops until i reached another archway, this one was made of trained shrubs. Through the archway i entered into a very different world, a woodland sheltered from the elements. The coastal path continued through the woods and eventually brought me out at Garlieston where i stopped at the local pub on the harbour for a coffee and not being to sure if I'd find any streams ahead i topped up my water bottles.

From the harbour i rentered some woods and continued to follow the coastal path again nicely sheltered from the wind which appeared to be picking up strength. Nearly Reaching the far end of the woods after a couple of hours hiking i decided to find a nice place to set up camp and settled in for a celebratory anniversary chicken tikka curry followed by custard with apple and a coffee.

7th March day 366

It was a misty morning, looking out from beneath the tarp i gazed out across the bay towards the peninsula opposite. I couldn't see it, i knew it was there but all i could see was white. Being slow to crawl out from my sleeping bag i eventually organised my head and began boiling the water to make up my breakfast.

Sheltered beneath the trees and snuggly tucked up behind an ivy covered slope i could hear the wind howling above me.  It wasn't raining and although the clouds were hanging low i felt quite sure it would remain dry.

After packing away i set off and continued along the stony shore line the woodland still to my left but not for long. As i had expected a little further the woods ended and i found myself exposed and trudging through long grass. It was hard going but seeing Wigtown ahead i felt my spirits lift. Wigtown is a small village that doesn't make wigs or indeed have anything to do with hair pieces whatsoever. It does boast Scotlands largest secondhand bookshop though and after receiving a message from alison brown it would be the place i would meet shaun, shaun with the messy hair and tattery jumper. What you see is what you get shaun. Well thats what the message said.

From where i was it wasn't a straight forward hike into the village reaching a rather wide river and wind being a tad gusty i had to walk up stream until i found a road and bridge. From the bridge and with the wind at my back i soon hiked in to the village centre where sure enough i found the green door of the book shop with concrete book spirals and two benches.

Shaun wasn't there but explaining the message I'd Recieved to nancy, who was covering for shaun while he was at a book auction, i was welcomed in, shown around the store which has over a mile of shelving and told to put the kettle on to make tea.

While i waited for shaun i decided to hit a nearby cafe for a bite to eat and a mocha. On getting back to the shop shaun had returned but only for a short while. I shown to the back door and taken to where the Wigtown book festival book club meet. A small building with four antique tables with chairs and a sofa. Considering i was expecting a warehouse this turned out to be luxury.

We had a very quick chat about the trek before shaun apologised and had to go get ready to leave. The description I'd Recieved was fairly accurate and a shame we didn't have time to chat longer.

5th March day 364

I didn't particularly want to leave the comfort of the bed but i was also eager to make tracks. As i ate my breakfast also courtesy of the Monreith arms i gazed through the windows at the skies. It looked pretty grey out there and not at all like the fantastic day I'd had walking to port William.

Taking it all in my stride i left the port following the road south. A couple of miles from the village i came across an information board that not only gave details about the area but also showed the location of an unusual monument dedicated to Gavin maxwell an author who I'd been introduced to the works of when I'd gone through Glenelg at the end of October. He'd lived in a cottage near to Glenelg whilst writing one of his more famous works "ring of bright water". A map on the board showing the location of the monument along the coast looked as though i was to pass it by following a short coastal path just ahead of me.

Sure enough after hiking downto the small stony bay below and then back up onto the cliffs i came upon a life size bronzed sculpture of an otter standing on a large boulder looking out to sea. I was impressed at how, like the green man, life like it was. Deciding that once i got back to Southampton i would have to obtain a copy of the book i set off towards the golf course that sat on the coast.

Descending down a track towards the golf course i had a good view of the terrain ahead. It was particularly overgrown with gorse bushes and some steep slopes looked impassable especially at high tide. Deciding not to risk injury or further agrivating my knee injury i turned around and headed back up the track towards a field. A break in the dry stone wall gave me the perfect opportunity to climb up and jump over the barbed wire fence and into a field, this i hoped would make my day slightly easier and my destination for the day was to be the isle of Whithorn, 11 miles by road or approximately 18 following the coast.

Back to hiking undulating landscapes jumping dry stone walls, barbed wire fenced and occasionally getting electrocuted it would seem would now be the extent of the challenge at least until i reached England again.

After a couple of hours of hiking, clambering and electrocution i was beginning to have enough of this coast line. It seemed that if i wasn't attracting the attention of herds of cattle or startling sheep and their lambs i was having to trudge through gorse bushes or avoid touching electrified fences which it would appear were armed in these areas.

After the fourth electric shock of the day I'd pretty much had enough. If I'd wanted electro shock treatment i could check myself into a mental hospital back home. The icing on the cake happened  a couple of fields later, whilst climbing over yet another dry stone wall my right trouser leg snagged on some barbed wire sending me crashing to the ground, my face planted firmly in the grass and my pack crushing my chest as i landed. That was the final straw and once again twisting my left knee i decided this route was too dangerous and made my way inland towards a gate and nearby track.

It was particularly painful as i hobbled along but i wasn't ready to call it a day just yet. With determination in my eyes i focussed on the road ahead hoping the tarmac would make my journey a little easier. Granted I'd have to stop for a five minute break every twenty minutes of hiking but nothing was going to stop me from at least Reaching my predetermined destination.

I probably walked about four miled before arriving in the village and I'll be honest i was nearly in tears. Seeing st Ninians community coffee shop lifted the spirits though so i thought I'd treat myself to a panini and mocha whilst enjoying the views. Whilei was relaxing and tucking in to my tucker i was approached by one ofthe waitresses who'd seen details of the trek on Facebook. She'd had a word with the manager and arranged to cover the cost of my lunch in exchange for a quick photo op. It seemed like a fair deal to me.

Before leaving the coffee shop i mentioned to the girls I'd been having problems getting reception on my phone and that i needed to contact the free press to arrange an interview, as it turns out all around the area phone coverage is weak at best but being typical lovely west coasters they offered me the use of the office phone. Finally being able to touch base with the reporters i arranged to meet at the coffee shop the following morning which meant my day was essentially over. A welcome thought and a time to rest my injuries all i needed now was somewhere to set up camp.

Again i asked the locals if they knew of somewhere sheltered i could set up my tarp. Nothing sprang to mind other than a few trees behind the isle of Whithorn coastguard hut which I'd passed as i limped into the village. Megan, the extremely helpful waitress, as it turns out was a member of the local coastguard.

While i gathered my bits together megan had run off to find her chief who, upon hearing about the trip instructed megan to offer me the use of the coastguard hut for the night. I'd stayed in many odd places over the past 12 months but never in a coastguard hut.

The hut was essentially two garages put together with a kitchen, toilet and shower room attached to the back. It  was perfect and there was even a small square of carpet just big enough for me to sleep on. After having a couple of coffees and a shower i headed over to the community hall to join the locals for a game of carpet bowls, a game i didn't even know existed let alone how to play. The outcome was that both teams i joined lost but for a first go i don't think i did too bad. It was a lovely break from my normal nights under the tarp and i was made to feel extremely welcome. Its times like these that make the trek extra special and you forget about the pains and instances of electrocution.

4th March day 363

When i woke the it was looking a little dreary. I was planning on making my way to port William which was a fair hike but but having set off early and the route round fairly flat i figured it was a worthwhile target.

With the tide out i left Sandhead and set off along the compact sandy beach crossingthe mod bombing range. The flags were still lowered which I figured was a good sign. My pack was light as I'd almost used up all my rations which allowed me to make light work of the walk.

It didn't take long for me to cover the 5 miles of beach but reaching a wide and fairly deep river i had to make my way towards a nearby woodland to find a way across. I had considered using hoolley and although it was a glorious sunny day there was still quite a strong wind blowing churning up the water. Reaching the woods i found a track which was easy to follow and eventually it took me to a bridge. I  was making extremely good progress. The time I'd spent in the hills lugging my load through the marshes and bogs, scaling steep slopes and climbing cliffs was now paying off.

Taking a quick breather i spotted a mobile mast nearby so decided to see if i could get my messages. Sure enough a rampage of texts came through, one from frances who'd received my next package of rations. I gave her a quick call and we arranged to meet so i could stock up again. The signal was still patchy but I managed to direct frances to me using landmarks i could see and it wasn't long before I could see her car driving towards me.

Having a bit of time to kill frances offered to take my back on to the cock inn a few miles away. Not having to carry my pack especially fully loaded is always a welcome break for both my knees, back and shoulders. Knowing I'd have another river to cross just passed the local golf club i stayed on the road and was eventually able to empty the contents of the parcel into my pack in the car park of the inn.

The cock inn wasn't open but Christine, the new owner who'd heard about my challenge via Facebook was more than happy to make me a coffee before i set off again now fully loaded with my pack almost bursting at the seams.

The sun had stayed with me all day and it didn't look like that was going to change any time soon. The hike to port William was also going to be a breeze following the road alongside the coast all the way.

A few days earlier I'd received a message from Alison brown, a long time follower of the trek, she'd contacted PIRSAC (port william inshore rescue service) the local privately run voluntary lifeboat service to see if they could assist me with a place to stay. Upon arriving at the port i was instructed to meet george at the boat house on the harbour for a quick tour of their facilities. Alison had also arranged for a brick to be dedicated to the trek which would help the crew construct a new boathouse, the old one having been a coal store and used by the service for 35 years to store the boat which itself was 15 years old. A grant issued by the fisheries commission would now allow them to buy a new boat, land rover and two storey boathouse on the harbour.

As with the guys at the rnli stations i was welcomed with a coffee and open arms and after paying a quick visit to the green man, Christine had insisted i must see, i was taken to the Monreith arms to settle in, have dinner and spend the evening repairing my trousers which were now torn and tattered.

3rd March day 362

It was still a bit windy and a tad chilly but the sky was clear and blue. I was quite uncomfortable during the night, my muscles tightening up and my led in a draught that occasionally wafted up through the tarp.

There was quite a bite in the wind but approaching Drummore i was slightly sheltered and began to feel the warmth of the spring sun in my hands which had started to go numb. Arriving in the village i stopped at the cafe for a coffee before heading to the local stores to see if i could get some gas. Unfortunately though they didn't have any.

Heading back to the coast to join the coastal path i passed a sign warning that the area was prone to landslip. It wasn't kidding either. Hiking along the land had given way several times recently. I was glad I'd taken the risk though as i discovered several small and inconspicuous art pieces and several painted stones. In fact the art trail went all the way out from the village with some very interesting pieces.

Finding it difficult to get back to the shore i continued to follow the path onto the road and took the first opportunity i found to head down to the stony beach that i hoped would take me all the way to Sandhead.

While making my way along i could see a very familiar flag, a familiar red flag. These red flags signify mod training property and if they're flying then its not  a good idea to proceed. This flag was not flying and as long as the mod didn't decide to hoist it while i was strolling through the danger zone  i figured I'd be ok.

All wouldn't be ok, a little passed the flag on the stony beach i had a little slip and twisted my knee. There was a dull pain for a moment but i carried on regardless. I was heading towards Ardwell now and hoped I'd find another cafe or pub to get a drink and take a short break. Walking into the village and able to see the far end it was apparent the village somewhat lacked anywhere to get refreshments. There was a chandlery though. I was running short of gas and had managed to get replacement cannisters from hardware stores and chandlerys before. Sure enough they had one canister left, and at a reasonable price too.

Walking away from Ardwell along the road to give my knee a little break i noticed a silver van pull up ahead into a siding. As i got closer the window wound down and out popped a little red head. I'd briefly met Sarah  and her mum Jane at the cafe earlier. We began chatting about the challenge and their plans to travel india which seems to be coming quite a popular destination these days. As we chatted the sky darkened and it began to rain. Being offered a lift is always a lovely gesture but one i sadly had to decline.

With Jane and Sarah driving off waving as they passed me i found the coastal path once more and headed down towards the shore. The rain didn't last long though and by the time i reached Sandhead it had stopped completely. The tide was also a long way out which allowed me to cross the sandy bay to reach the days destination in good time.

2nd March day 361

Theres something homely about the smell of my smooth oats with raspberries re hydrating first thing in the morning. I woke around 7:30 it was a bit chilly and overcast but I felt warm knowing that today i would hopefully reach Scotlands most southerly point.

After leaving the comfort of the woodland it was back to the blustery coastline. It hadn't seemed to be too windy while I packed away bur now unsheltered by the trees i realised that i would have to be extra careful up on the cliffs ahead.

Hiking around port logan i wondered if it would soon rain, the sky didn't look too clever at all. Leaving the port i headed up a track and through a farm. After clambering over a few fences and being especially careful with the ones that appeared to be electrified i found myself on top of the cliffs once more.

The morning was mostly spent hiking along the edge of grassy fields and occasionally venturing into small patches if wilderness. Because the wind was particularly strong today i hung back from the edge of the cliffs but all the time keeping the sea in sight.

Eventually i turned the corner as it were and instead of heading south i was once again heading east. The wind was finally at my back. You'd think this would be a good thing, having the wind helping you along,  but in this case it was a bit of a nightmare.  I was having to watch my step as i went, the wind was a little too strong which was adding extra force to my knees which at times wanted to buckle.

It was a fantastic feeling to see both coasts of the mull of Galloway with the lighthouse ahead. Up on the hill before me was an unusual looking structure, from a distance it looked like a giant cairn but as i got closer it became strikingly obvious it was some kind of lookout tower or observation post.

I had to take a closer look so i leftthe cliff edge and headed over. As i got closer i could see a set of stones inset spiralling to the top. Figuring the panoramic view from the top would be outstanding i took my pack off and began to climb. Getting about half way up,  the wind hammering down on me, i decided it would take a braver man than me to make it to top on a day like it was.

Looking back along the coast was spectacular the sunlight bringing the colours out in the rocks with the rough sea pounding against the foot of the cliffs. Now nearing the point i couldn't believe my eyes when i saw a cafe. I had to stop for a southern Scotland celebratory coffee.

Heading away from the cafe i made my way right to the very tip of the mull where the lighthouse sits before taking the coastal path which runs along about half way down in front of the cliffs. From here i could see a fair way along the east coast if Galloway i could also see across to the next peninsula I'd be tackling in a few days time. Eventually the path lowered down to a small bay which was a satisfying feelibg as the wind along the cliffs was particularly strong and at times i had visions of getting blown off and ending up in the sea.

After crossing the bay i once more had to head up onto the cliffs where i came across information board saying about st crenans cave, unfortunately i couldn't find the path mentioned on the board to go and investigate so i continued on my way. After a while the land began to get lower and flatter.

I could see a small village ahead but no trees. The sun was beginning to set now so instead of heading into the village I decided to build camp. Unfortunately there were no trees.

It was getting dark so i made an improvised ridge tent using my paddle shaft and a gate post. Wind was coming from both directions which meant my usual configuration wouldn't fully shelter me. under the tarp it was tight and difficult to move about but as i settled in i felt quite pleased that once again i had been able to camp without a tent even exposed ob the coast of Scotland.

28th February - 1st March

28th February day 359

My little camp up in the hills served me well and sheltered behind the wall from the wind i slept extremely well. I was now getting up earlier and earlier, rising with the sun. Having expected an extremely wet night i was delighted when i climbed from beneath my tarp to see clear skies.

Once I'd packed up i head off over the hills passing isolated bays and beaches and although it was quite windy i could feel the sun's warmth against my face. All in all it was a fairly uneventful day and i soon arrived at Portpatrick where marc, a crew member for the RNLI, had organised a room for me at the harbour house hotel.

While being given a tour of the  ports lifeboat station it began to chuck it down, i was particularly pleased to have arrived before hand. 

That evening i was invited to the annual crew party where i was treated like family and had the rare opportunity of meeting almost all the crew and their respective wives and partners. After the meal the drinking continued long into the morning and i eventually found my way back to the hotel a little after 2am. I just hoped i wouldn't be too hanging the following morning.

Late night

1st March  day 360

Feeling a bit mortal i tried to ignore the sun shining through the window. In the back of my mind a little voice kept telling me to get up and make the most of good weather. It was windy outside but with clear blue skies it looked like it would be a lovely day which is what i needed as i knew from talking to the boys from the lifeboat the night before there wouldn't be many places I'd be able to shelter.

My goal was to get to port logan before nightfall where i was hoping to find a small woodland to set up camp amongst. Feeling less than fresh but powered by caffeine i left Portpatrick harbour and began the climb against the wind up a never ending corridor of steps. The wind was incredibly strong hiking along the ridge away from the village and it took all my energy to stay on both feet.

A castle just a little way along caught my attention so i took a short break to admire what remained of the architecture before tackling the coast. A reasonably well trodden path was my guide and with the goid weather  i could see the land stretch out ahead. Once i reached the mull i knew I'd reached the very bottom of Scotland but that wouldn't be for at least two days.

The path at first was easy to follow but as with all good things it eventually ended. Abruptly at that. From here on in I was up against my new nemesis, electrified and barbed wired fences. My trousers slowly getting shredded the further i hiked. The Galloway peninsula is quite a hilly peninsula nothing too steep but undulating none the less. There are also several gorges that have to be negotiated taking me in away from and then back out to the coast.

The coastline looked stunning and at one point i swear i could see the sea on the other side which is possible because at some points I'd be less than a mile from the east side.

As i made my way south the agricultural land became more set back from the coast to be replaced with a more baron heather, bracken and gorse wilderness. Getting to the wilderness wasn't quite so forward as you might think though. Reaching a steep long  valley and i mean really steep and really long i made the decision to well toboggan down the slope to the valley floor. I could see a trail from the top that had obviously been left by local roe deer and decided to follow it. Afterall the quickest way between two points is a straight line and this was a straight line down. Crouching down onto my right foot with my left leg outstretched to be used as a break i rapidly slid from the top to a track i found at the bottom which lead to an isolated cottage situated in a small remote bay. Finding a sheltered place to crouch behind next to a small stream i stopped for a coffee and tracker bar.

From the bay i began the climb up into the wild and rugged hills. This stretch of the coast is really quite crinkly and although relatively easy to hike took a long time to get anywhere. With lots if crags and plenty of hilly slopes i gradually began to make progress and reaching a long beach i felt i would eventually make it to port logan and hopefully before nightfall.

Heading down to the beach and looking forward to an easy mile or so at sea level i spotted probably the largest hare i have ever seen. All i would need to do was learn how to lasso it and would be left with two choices, either have it for dinner or strap my pack to it and use the hare like a pack horse. Unfortunately while i was procrastinating about the options the hare had darted so i continued down to the beach where i came across a rather interesting cave entrance. It was too interesting not to put my pack down and have a closer look.

As i entered the entrance several birds panicked and flew out making a hell of a racketas they did. The cave itself was really large inside and much bigger than it appeared from outside,  in fact i began to think it would be quite a good place to stop the night. A long tunnel stretch back from the main cave at the entrance which passed through several more caves. At the back it was quiet, warm and dry but it was still too early to stop so having explored thoroughly i decided to grab my pack and carry on.

As i reached the far end of the beach i could see that i would only have  a couple of hours if light left and that i would probably end up hiking the last mile or so in the dark. Following the coast was easy but as the sun set i opted to follow the fences along the perimeter of the fields. Stars were appearing above me and the coast seemed to stretch on out of sight.

My way was now only lit by my head torch but seeing a row of lights ahead, which could only have been the houses of port logan i knew my day would finally be over.

Getting closer to the port the skyline silhouetted the tops of a woodland, my home for the night. Climbing a small stone wall i entered into the woods and quickly found a perfectly sheltered spot to set up camp.