19th March day 378

It wasn't the best nights sleep I'd had, the ground was uncomfortable,  it was cold and the traffic ran almost continually all night. Eventually dragging my ass out of the sleeping bag around 7:30 despite every effort to have a little lie in i made breakfast and packed my gear away ready to cross the border and leave Scotland behind me.

Before i left the country though i had to stop for a coffee and birthday bacon bap at the first and last house in Scotland, the old toll bar. The bridge that was to carry me a mere couple of steps away. Part of me wanted to stay in Scotland a bit longer but i knew although I was only 470 odd miles from lands end as the crow flies my journey ahead would be considerably longer.

It was still very misty as I left the cafe to cross the river that defined the border. Stepping into England was a monumental achievement and a very special occasion for the trek. As i did i thought back to my time tackling the Scottish coast, the people i met and hospitality I'd recieved, the freedoms of the land, the weather.

As i continued passed the welcome sign to follow the road back to the coast the mist gradually cleared and the sun shone hard on me. I couldn't ask for more. I wouldn't see the coastline now until i got near to bowness on solway which first meant negotiating the river eden.

Finding the hadrians wall walk off the road taking me through fields and along the river bank was a nice break from hiking the busy English roads not that i saw any signs of a wall roman or otherwise.

After many miles hiking, the sunny weather almost tropical, i eventually found the coast almost directly opposite Annan by the eden channel. It was about 7:30pm when i finally found somewhere to camp up. I had to be sure i was high up which limited my options a little. This was due to the high tides that were expected later during the night. The area i had been hiking was prone to flooding when the tide levels rise above 9 meters. The prediction for the night was, you guessed it 9 meters and 10 the following day.

18th March day 377

I'd slept particularly well in the farmhouse, having a comfortable bed, warmth and peace. I got myself dressed and joined john in the kitchen for a coffee and bowl of crunchy nut cornflakes. We chatted for a bit before i had to head off on my way. I didn't think I'd quite make it to gretna that day but i was determined to get as close as possible.

The coast was a fair hike fromthe farm so to expediate my journey i stuck to the road until i reached brow well. Brow well was visited by the famous Scottish poet rober burns, bob to his mates. He was advised to drink from the well because of its supposed healing qualities. A few days after he arrived home he died.

A footpath from the well took me back to the salt marshes at the mouth of the river I'd been following since the day before. Looking out across the water i was hoping to see the English coastline especially as i was so close now.  Unfortunately a heavy mist had descended on the area and i couldn't see much further than a couple of hundred yards out to sea.

The air was warming up and it certainly felt like the sun would eventually break through. Over the next few miles i stuck to the shore and hiked the salt marshes to Powfoot and then on to the next village, newbie i think. I was now able to pick up a river bank footpath which led me on to Annan where i stopped at the cafe royal for a burger and coke and to meet with a reporter and photographer. The interview lasted a couple of minutes, alison had supplied the reporter with everything they needed so they didn't feel like an interview was necessary.

Now passed the coastline and following the river esk i decided to keep to the road and attempt to reach Gretna, the Scottish town best known for its marriages over the anvil for eloping couples.

Arriving in Gretna was quite something, mixed feelings. I can't quite put my finger on it. Stopping literally yards from the border but not wanting to cross till the morning i sought out a few trees to camp amongst. It was harder than you might think. In the end i settled for a small clump of woodland next to the retail village. Yes i was by the road and no it was far from ideal but it was to be home for the night.

17th March day 376

It was what us southerners call a mild morning. It was dry but Niether hot nor cold. Leaving my little hiding place just on the outskirts of Dumfries and keeping the river in sight i headed to Glencaple to meet alison who had gathered a few goodies for me including nikwax for my boots and some new walking socks, mine now perishing. Alison had also arranged for me to meet a guy from the nith voluntary inshore rescue service, a private lifeboat service, for a quick tour of their boat house and for a chat about the invaluable services they provide assisting the coastguards. The surrounding area is notoriously dangerous with rapid tides and quick sand. Thankfully I'd not needed their assistance during this leg of the trek but listening to some of robbies stories really highlighted the dangers of the solway coastline.

It was a fascinating break from the daily hikes and actually speaking to the crews of not only the rnli but also the volunteers of community projects such as pirsac and ninth helped me fully understand what drives the crews to risk their own lives in order to save others. It also highlighted the costs involved in launching as well as replacing and repairing vital kit.

Leaving the nith boathouse i followed a kind of footpath along the banks of the river until it started to get a bit soft underfoot as i walked over the silty shores nearing the mouth of the river. Deciding i really quite liked to keep my record clean and not wanting to get stuck in the mud i opted to head up to the road running parallel to the water.

I didn't need to hike long before I found a way back to the shore where the caerlaverock national nature reserve began. The nature reserve consists mostly of salt marshes and mud flats.  You will find most common coastal birds and i would speculate a great view of the solway. Unfortunately for me although it was a lovely day there was quite a thick haze hanging over the solway and i didn't get much of a view of anything.

The hike was very easy going as salt marshes go and the longer I hiked the warmer it appeared to get. After a couple of hours wandering along again lost in my own thoughts, mostly about how i was going to fund the nile challenge and attract sponsors, eventually reaching the mouth of another river. It was a little too deep to wade across and un the back of my mind i wondered how solid the river bed would be, having visions of getting stuck half way across. Obviously it was a job for hoolley, or was it. I checked the cached satellite images of the area and located a bridge about a mile away.  Thats 20 mins there and 20 mins back, it takes about the same time to get hoolley ready and then packed away. It was to be a close call. By pack rafting across I'd save a couple of miles hiking true but I'd also have a wet backpack and the extra weight of any mud or water and time wise it would be about the same.

After 40 minutes walking and still no sign of the bridge i had to concede to the fact that maybe my estimation of the distance to the bridge was somewhat out. In fact it was twice as far as i had guessed which meant in theory i could have made the crossing twice including packing away and unpacking hoolley in between. I was committed now and there was absolutely no way i was going back to make the crossing now.

Finally reaching Bankend and the bridge i followed the road parallel to the river and back towards the coast. Forefront in my mind was to get water for the evening meal and find shelter before it got dark. Passing a small bridge and seeing a woodland ahead i decided to stop to collect some water. Peering over the brick wall of the bridge i could see the water wasn't quite right, in fact it looked like morning after urine. While deciding whether or not i could do any better i noticed dogs barking at the gates of the farm i was now next to. Looking up and away from the urine coloured stream I noticed the owner of the collies peering out from the farmhouse. I went over to say hi and decided to ask if it would be possible to fill my bottles.

Janet and john had lived in the farmhouse for 15 years having moved from Sussex in search of a better more relaxed life. Having filled my bottles we then chatted for quite some time about the trek and the local area. So much so i was becoming conscious of the amount of light left. Making my excuses and eager to get to the woods before dark i set off with a fair pace.

I hadn't walked far when i heard a call from behind me, it was john, he'd quite literally run up the road after me. A little out of breath when he reached me john invited me to spend the night at the farmhouse in one of the spare rooms. It was a lovely gesture and one i simply couldn't refuse being that it was a completely random act of kindness.

14th - 16th March

14th March day 373

I slept particularly well on one of the leather bound sofas and was woken by an offering of bacon sandwiches and tea. After helping tim fix his wifi issues we sat and chatted. tim is quite a character, having travelled the world in a land cruiser taking four years he has now moved into the warehouse in Palnackie in the hope to launch an ecologically friendly and sustainable shipping company. An idealistic pipe dream, not for tim. With strong determination and a positive mental attitude that would fill an auditorium i believe he'd be able to move mountains if he put his mind to it.

It was nice to just simply be.

15th March day 374

It would have been nice if i could have taken more time out to listen to tims stories and visions but with such a long way to hike and with the English / Scottish border so close i had to peel myself away and concentrate on the challenge. The break had done me good though and I knew we would meet again someday.

After being dropped back at sandyhills and saying goodbye i headed off across the sand. I'd been warned by several people about the dangers of the area from rapid tides to quick sand. Taking heed of the warnings i decided to keep close to the rocks instead of taking a direct line across the bay.

Reaching a river i had to decide whether to unpack hoolley or look for a bridge. With the tide out and the risk of sinking up to my waist i decided to follow the river, afterall how long would i possibly have to  go before I could cross. Well lets just say this time it wasn't measured in minutes but in miles.

Leaving the sands i headed up on to marshes and began the long hike following the river hoping to either find a footbridge or stepping stones or even somewhere narrow enough for me to jump. It didn't happen. The marshes got marshier the reeds taller and well the river remained uncrossable.

I was beginning to regret my decision not to use the pack raft but i was also determined to find an alternative way to cross so i continued to follow the river. After battling my way through the grasses and as much as possible avoiding sinking in the marsh i reached a field that led to a track which in turn led to a bridge. Using the pack raft would most definitely have been quicker.

After the bridge i returned to the coast via the bird sanctuary at mersehead. The public footpath followed the coast all the way to southerness. The day despite my little distraction was going rather well.

From southerness i made my way to Carsethorn where i joined the road, again being warned by a local about quick sand. It was now beginning to get late so coming across a small wood i decided to stop.

16th March day 375

The mornings were definitely warming up. After climbing out of my sleeping bag and packing away i continued to follow the road. I was a fair way from the coast now and my goal for the day was to cross the bridge in Dumfries. Simply following the road was a doddle and by the afternoon i arrived. It was still a shock walking round the streets, so many people.  I  felt anonymous and insignificant.

12th - 13th March

12th March day 371

The sun was now beginning to rise earlier and earlier every day, and it was noticeable. The forecast for the day was well to be frank crappy. I was to expect rain all day but as i peered out from my sleeping bag it didn't look like it would rain in the slightest. It was a bit windy though and gaining strength with every passing minute. I however didn't want to get up just then unfortunately i wantedto get a few good miles in that day aiming for at the very least Auchencairn and if it was possible Kippford. An early start was essential.

Breakfast was a quick affair and packing up equally so although trying to fold the tarp with the winds blowing it about meant being a little resourceful. It still wasn't raining. I left the woods and crossed a couple of fields again through gates, a fantastic invention someone should really introduce around the isle of Whithorn. I then headed down a muddy track between trees sone trees which brought me to a junction. For some reason my guts said turn left but knowing the coast was down to my right i ignored my gut and went with my head.

As the track descended as it twisted between the trees i still wasn't convinced this was the right way to be heading,  i don't know why but it just didn't feel right.

It didn't take long and i could see the shore, the track continued on but there was a kind of path thingy which made for a more direct route. It was almost vertical but someone had  kindly strung heavy rope between the trees to aid my descent.

At the bottom and with a few steps i was on a stony beach looking along, planning my course still trying to convince my gut it was in fact wrong and  that although it would be tough this was still the right direction  to head in.

It felt good being back by the waters edge again after spending a  few days on cliffs or hiking nearby roads. Yes the going was going to be tough, physically and mentally but i felt the rewards would be Olympic. Setting off along the beach i kept an eye on the cliffs ahead. Muttering the words "this could be a mistake" i began to tackle the boulders and slippery rocks I'd now encountered. I  wondered how many times I'd said that and had most definitely now lost count.

The boulders were gradually getting larger the further along i went and i was also now beginning to face enormous slippery plates angled down towards the sea. The tide had also turned and was most definitely coming in. It was no longer a simple case of scrambling over rocks it was very much turning into mini climbs which is all well and good as long as i didn't need to make a hasty retreat. As any climber will tell you "its easier climbing up than climbing down ".

The further i hiked the more slimy and slippery i was finding the rock beds beneath my feet. Crossing one such bed i slipped and didn't stop until i hit a small ridge at the bottom.  There would be absolutely no way i would be able to scramble back up it and started to really hope my gut was wrong otherwise I'd have no other choice but to find an alternative way around this obstacle.
I continued to scramble over boulders, climb ridges and traverse ledges until, thud. My heart skipped a beat. I was to go no further. The tide was racing in and in front of me a climb down i wouldn't be able to manage on my own. Which was a shame because I'd come to the mouth of an enormous cave which beckoned and taunted me.

Thud, then the gravity of the situation struck a cord. I'd need to make my way back over demanding terrain and race against the tide. My gut was right and whats worse i could now find myself in the situation where I'd possibly be cut off from the tide. Under no circumstances was i going to call the rescue services, i got myself into this mess i was going to get myself out of it.

Turning round i now had the problem of not only finding a safe way back to the place I'd started the mornings adventure but also do it before i found myself cut off completely by the tides. It would take me a full hour to get back the stony beach, clambering, climbing and sliding if the rocks and boulders. It was also now beginning to rain, a rainfall that wouldn't let up one bit for the remainder of the day.

With two hours wasted i resigned myself to the fact I'd be spending the rest of the day hiking the fields at the top of the cliffs. Heading back to the steep slope with the rope i now had to climb, the heavens opened up further. I pulled myself up the slope, boots trying their hardest to find grip and using tree roots as hand holds. I then followed the track back up into the woods passing the head of a unicorn immortalised in concrete. The track had now joined a tarmac road or was it somebody's driveway, it didn't matter i found a gate and began the soggy hike across the fields.

The rain was beginning to gather in puddles and divets. The fields were gradually going squidgy, soft under foot, wet under foot. Passing from field to field sometimes passing through gates but often jumping the stone walls and fences all the time avoiding either electrocution but also being impaled or shredded. I thick mist began to descend and the views ahead vanished, engulfed.

I was now beginning to feel a dampness through my jackets and fleeces. I was quite literally wet to the skin. The fields were also worsening the longer i hiked it was quite frankly getting ridiculous. Coming to a road and dense forest blocking my way i headed inland to see where it lead and to see if i could find a quick route around.

Reaching the main road near Auchencairn and rain falling hard i decided to stick to the tarmac to Palnackie. From Palnackie I continued to follow the road to Dalbeattie where i stopped for a hot drink before carrying on to Kippford.

Alison brown had been following the trek and my progress as well as hand  drawing cartoons from photos I'd taken and uploaded to social media. To finally meet alison was quite the experience. Its funny that when interacting with social media friends you always create a picture of them in your mind. I don't think even i had truly expected to meet someone whos real life personality simply doesn't translate in virtual reality. Alison is a truly amazing individual and certainly not somebody you meet everyday.

After checking in to the room alison had arranged at the anchor inn i had a quick bath and hung up my clothes to dry out. I then joined alison in the bar for dinner and a chat. She'd also brought a few goodies,  a parcel from iain from craghoppers, a tube of arnica, new toothbrush, chocolate and other useful items, all very well thought out.

13th March day 372

Unlike the previous day it wasn't a particularly early start to the day. My boots although were drying in front of a radiator were still very wet.

After breakfast and reorganising my kit i left the anchor behind and proceeded to walk along the harbour front across a beach made entirely of sea shells towards Rockcliffe.  It wasn't all shells though, the tide was thankfully out and i was able to walk between the smaĺl boulders scattered along the shore.

Reaching Rockcliffe i left the shores and began to follow the nature trail being somewhat safer than getting stuck in the silty mud flats that make up this coast line. The trail took me around some private gardens and down to Rockcliffe bay. The bay was really quite quaint, sweeping round with sandy beaches and lunar rock formations.

Maybe the sun was getting to me, my bag was lighter,  or it possibly even that i was hallucinating, either way it felt good. It felt like i had a spring in my step. I continued to follow the coastal path to the castle view point where the panoramic views were outstanding.  I  could easily see the coast ahead of me and across to the English coastline stretching across the horizon never appearing to end or for that matter even start. Whats more i could see the landscape I'd just crossed during appalling conditions from a different  point of view,  as the eagle flies.

Looking along the  cliff face and down on the shoreline i had to make the decision whether to go low or high. Remembering the previous days antics and adventures i decided to stick to the coastal path i could see snaking over the sine curves of the peaks and trophs ahead. Maybe my confidence had been battered or that based on my experience coupled with what i had been told I'd simply decided it was simply too risky.

It was a peaceful plod up and over the serpents back all the time looking down on to the beach below like a falcon seeking its prey. The longer i spent looking down and hiking along the more and less convinced i became I'd made the right choice. It was certainly the safest.

Reaching the end of the beach and whilst descending the final slope, except it wasn't, i began to feel more inclined towards the "yes adam good decision" then i passed a narrow footpath coming from the shore. Which meant it was possible to negotiate, you loose.  I wasn't going back i just had to accept that this time good ol gut feeling was waaay out.

As i carried on my way the views continued to be outstanding and it wasn't long before I reached port o warren and beyond that sandyhills. Sandyhills overlooks an enormous expanse of sand while the tide is out. Whilst descending towards port o warren i remembered the invitation I'd been given to call by to visit tim, the gentleman I'd met in the tea pot a few days earlier. Upon pulling out the piece of paper he'd written his address on i realised he didn't live near port o warren but in fact Palnackie a small village I'd passed the day before.

I'd really wanted to hear more about tims travels and his eco friendly shipping company. I sent a text to see if he was still up for a meet, i got a reply and quarter of an hour later he met me in an awesome off road land cruiser, the land cruiser he drove around the world in. We then did something really quite unpressidented, i went back to Palnackie.

Arriving at tims warehouse, head office for the shipping company and home for tim. Apparently it was the oldest building in the village and sat opposite an old port, an ideal location for a shipping company don't you think. Inside the warehouse it was organised chaos with recycled timber, motors and all manor of items carefully distributed around the ground floor. In the far left corner  platform had been built housing a living space above and several bunks below. Tim has a vision, idealistic possibly, insanity most definitely not. It was here i decided to take a couple of nights out from the trek to delve further into the mind of this unique individual.

10th - 11th March

10th March day 369

It was a gorgeous spring morning, clear skies and birds singing when i woke. With hardlya breeze in the air i boiled my water for breakfast and gradually gathered myself together ready for the day ahead.

Continuing to nurse my knee which appeared to be improving daily i stuck to the track passing through i would guess a holiday village and out the other side. The calmness of the weather was unbelievable especially after hiking through the torrential rain the day before. Finding a coastal path marker i headed away from the track and began to follow the footpath.

Taking me across a field i found myself at an ancient harbour. There were three unusual stone columns erected in a perfect triangle. I wondered what they had been used for. Maybe tying a maiden to satisfy the hunger of a sea serpent. After taking a bit of time to clamber over the rocks and take a closer look i followed the shore as far as i could. The tide was out and the sand firm. As i walked away from the pillars i pondered at how ridiculous it was to think they'd tie a maiden to them, there were three pillars after all therefore room for three maidens which made more sense and i would guess sea serpents would be quite large and have an appetite to suit.

A little further along i came across a mini castle. I wasn't sure what or why but it intrigued me enough to make me stop and take a look round. It was certainly suitable for hobbits or gnomes. Maybe it was a gnome castle. Satisfied I'd unravelled the castle secrets i continued on my way. The rest of the day was easy, simply following the coast and enjoying the views lost in my own thoughts.

Before i knew it i could see Kirkcudbright ahead 3 maybe 4 miles away. I'd even almost forgotten about the twinges in my knee, well almost. Looking across the tidal bay at the peninsula i was tempted to unpack hoolley and cross over but having been warned about the tidal race and the fact I'd intended to visit the rnli station in the town continued to walk up to the bridge and into town.

Seeing a chinese takeaway open as soon as i hit the high street i decided to grab some sweet and sour chicken with a portion of chips. The station was closed so i contacted alison to see if she knew anyone i could see and get a look round the boathouse. Naturally she was right on the ball and after getting in contact with john the operations manager informed me she'd arranged an interview with the Galloway news, a photographer would be meeting with me 10am at the harbour.

It was still light and i had planned to keep going but pr was more important if i was to build awareness about the charities i supported. A woodland just beyond the town looked good for shelter so i decided I'd stop short and pitch up there after I'd met up with john at the station.

Arriving at the crew house i was greeted by john who kindly gave me some history and background about the station and crew and who also offered to take me to the boathouse which unusually is located 4.5 miles from Kirkcudbright. This is because the bay is massively tidal and if the boat was housed nearer the town they would have trouble launching in times of need.

The boathouse itself is one of the oldest in the rnli and still fully functional with launch ramp. Back at the crew house john then offered me the floor for the night which was much better than the 3 mile hike to the woods and 3 mile hike back the following morning to meet the journalist.

11th March day 370

It was a blustery day when i woke. Poking my head out of the rnli station to check the weather i wasn't sure if it was going to rain or not. I checked the weather forecasts for the area and it seemed like there was the possibility later that day.

Packing my sleeping bag which i still had to wrestle with on a daily basis one of the seams burst and i found myself covered in duck feathers. It was a messy disaster.  I cleared up and made repairs doing my best to sew the seam back together.

Leaving the station it began to rain. The forecasters had for once got it right, unfortunately. Where had the sun disappeared to that i had the pleasure of hiking in the day before. I had plenty of time to get to the reporter so i gradually made my way to the harbour. It was quite chilly and i could feel a bite on my fingers as i arrived at the meeting place.

After posing for a couple of photos down on the harbour it began to rain so i headed off to find a cafe to indulge myself with a mocha and put my wet weathergear on. Whilst sat in Mulberries i  was invited to  join a very exclusive  group for coffee before heading off in the rain.

Before leaving Kirkcudbright i had to take a closer look at the old castle. It was an extremely good example of traditional Scottish castle however it was closed to the public. A little gutted i couldn't take a look round the inside i headed out of the town.

As i left the centre of Kirkcudbright and reached the outskirts i came upon a sign pointing the way to St marys circular, an additional 3 miles hike I'd not realised I'd have to do. You could say not carrying a map somewhat holds me to a disadvantage but for me it adds to the adventure, not knowing where I'm going means that every decision takes me into the unknown, tests my versatility and fuels my insatiable apatite to explore.

Despite the rather damp start to the day it was quite a nice hike around st marys circular which i assume was named after mary queen of scots. Leaving the circular via a different path to the one i started the walk on i decided to stick to the road to avoid the strong gusts and swampy and slippery salt  banks of the tidal bay.

Although the lifeboat station was over 4 miles away i made good time getting back out to it. Taking shelter beneath the trees i stopped for short break and watched the waves rolling in passed the boathouse. Feeling quite energised i was hoping the rest of the day would continue to go smoothly.

Leaving the boat house i hiked along a muddy track, i could feel my socks getting damp. The track took me through the woods and up to a field where i was now completely exposed to the elements. The day was about to get tougher. Hiking across the field i saw a gate which led me out on top of the cliffs and probably not the best place to be in high winds. The temperature was beginning to drop drastically with the wind beating against me lifting my baseball cap as i battled on. Not wanting to lose the cap and certainly not wanting to get brain freeze i swapped the cap for my beanie. As i continued along the clifftops i could only imagine what sentries posted at the mod firing range would think as i approached their boundaries.

Reaching the mod firing range i was pleased to see the flags lowered and sentry box empty. Passing through the gate and entering the range i decided to stick to the designated trail to ensured i wouldn't get blown up. Signs dotted along the route saying things like "controlled impact area" and "don't touch anything it may explode " reinforced my decision.

The range itself was massive but as i gradually made my way across the  sun came out. It looked like it could possibly turn out to be a nice day. Continuing to follow the finger posts showing the safe route across the range i found some old rusty tanks. They'd obviously been put there to be used as targets. They weren't far from the path and figuring that you could only do something stupid the once and that this was as good a time as any to be stupid i ventured towards the relics for a closer look.

Perched on the hill near to the cliffs and near to a large metal structure i guess had to be a target for either gunships or aircraft i found three tanks, none of which were modern but still recognisable as tanks. The view was pretty good too. It was hard to imagine only that morning thick mist, barraging rain and strong winds were engulfing the coast and obscuring the views.

Heading back to the trail and looking inland i could see about half a dozen bunkers buried in the hills. I can only guess they were used during the war to defend the solway from nazi attack. I didn't really know but  the theory seemed sound.

After many miles of hiking through the range and passing more tanks i eventually ended up hiking through a forest still following the finger posts. The track eventually stopped at the top of the cliffs. From there i had no choice but  to climb a gate into a field where i could follow the clifftops. As i looked out across the water i noticed a large wind farm out at sea and beyond that something i wasn't expecting. Land. To be more precise England. It was closer than i had  thought.

I continued to follow the coast crossing several fields thankfully i didn't have to climb and electrified fences, gates had been provided. Approaching a small woodland and with the sun slowly setting i decided to stop and set up camp.

As the sun sank below the horizon and i sat beneath my tarp boiling my water i could see lights across the sea as England prepared its evening meal and sat in front of their televisions.

9th March day 369

It was a very wet and dreary start as i left Newton Stewart and followed the A road towards Creetown. The rain simply didn't let off one bit. With very little visibility i kept my head down and just kept putting one foot  in front of the other. My boots were now feeling like they were leaking and without checking i was sure my socks were wet.

After a fair hike i saw a small hut at the side of the road, lorries and vans parked up alongside it. It had to be a cafe. I went over, sure enough my prayers had been answered, metaphorically speaking. A place to rest and dry out. Whilst sat enjoying a nice hot coffee at the tea pot, skyreburn a chap came in wearing an expolice riot suit and fantastically unique beard. Tim Dennis was a local of sorts. As we chatted and he ate his lunch tim entertained me with some fantastic stories of his past travels. Before he left he jotted some details on a scrap of paper and told me to stop by when i got to Palnackie. He also called an artist friend of his alice frances who lived on a farm a couple of days hike from where i was and arranged a stop over for me there.

Before tim went on his way he handed me a fiver to get myself a coffee further up the coast which i put under my phone while i went toilet. Unfortunately when i returned the money had gone. My feeling is that the lady serving had it away. Its a shame that such a thing should happen but with no proof there was nothing i could confront her with. I  felt sorry for the lady as i gethered my kit together, she must have really needed the money for her to have so blatantly taken it from me and it was ultimately my fault for leaving temptation on the table in plain sight. I just hoped that it would go to some good in the end and not towards supporting a habit of any kind.

Not wanting to hang about any longer i finished my coffee and headed off to see if i could get a few more miles in before setting up camp for the night. As i left the cafe the rain ceased and the wind died down. The sun came out and for the rest of the day it felt quite pleasant. I continued to follow the road until i reached the bridge opposite a grand castle ruin where i was able to drop down onto a farm track. On both sides of the track were what appeared to be electrified fences and having learnt my lesson the hard way a few days earlier i decided to stick to the track.

The two short days I'd spent hiking had given my knee a chance to heal a little and that had now paid off. I'd made excellent progress even in the dreadful weather. Continuing to stay on the track i passed through a small farm and kept hiking. Eventually i came out at a caravan park and seeing a tap grabbed the chance to fill my bottles before heading off once more.

A few miles later i could see the sun beginning to set and with a small woodland ahead decided i should find somewhere sheltered should the weather change again as it has known too.