8th July day 489

I woke around 8:30am so much for getting up early. It was still raining outside. I pulled back my sleeping bag and looked at my stomach. It was thin, really thin. My hips and ribs showing promenantly through my skin. I was eating well but still below what i needed to gain some fat. Beside me lay the necklace, a good luck charm joanne had given me years before. I'd never taken it off.

Gradually over the past 15 months the string that wrapped round my neck had been fraying and during the night finally snapped. With the cord lay out on the ground sheet  i could see how the cord had split into three and how each had slowly worn away. It felt strange not having it dangling below my neck rubbing against my chest.

I had breakfast and it stopped raining. The sun peered between the clouds. I wasn't superstitious but somehow simply putting the talisman away in my wallet didn't feel right. I took it out again and reached into my trouser pocket and pulled out a length of paracord i always kept close to hand. I cut it to length and threaded the good luck charm on before tieing two slip knots. I then put my head through the loop and tightened the necklace so the charm rested against my chest.

Leaving camp i began my first ascent of the day. A zig zagging path back up high above the sea. The skies were threatening but i still sweated as i made my way towards my first descent of the day. I'd covered a mile. One lousy mile. Had i reached my limits, the limits I'd been searching for. Not possible, i was still breathing, my heart was still beating. I held my breath to listen to it thump.

Ahead was my second ascent. It was higher than the first,  a set of steps that reached towards the sky disappearing out of sight. It was getting warmer so i took my rain jacket off and attached it to my pack.

I wanted a mochaccino or how ever you spelt it. I wanted a steak with Yorkshire pudding followed by strawberries and clotted cream. I wondered how many mount everests I'd climbed since Minehead. After the third ascent i was given a short reprieve. The trail was reasonably level as it wound along high above the sea but this was short lived.

By the time I'd arrived at Polperro I'd lost count of how many ascents I'd made that morning. I could smell chips. I wandered the  narrow streets following my nose.

The way to Looe was relatively kind to me and arriving at the town marked quite an important milestone. I now had less than 300 miles to go. At 10 miles per day it would take me 30 days to reach Southampton, at 20 it would only take 15. But could i keep that sort of pace up.

Leaving the wilderness behind me i began to walk past the row of housing leading towards looe. Seeing the Island view cafe i decided to celebrate the milestone by treating myself to a coffee. While ordering i mentioned my achievement to the lady serving. As it turns out her colleagues father had been responsible for creating one of the most famous coastal paths in the world. She gave me a double hit espresso and treated me to a couple of packets of dried fruit to go and a slice of chocolate torte.

Fueled by caffeine and chocolate i left the cafe and headed towards the harbour to meet the guys from the local lifeboat. It was the launch of the rnli's respect the water campaign. Their philosophy was that prevention was better than rescue or fatality. After being shown round and introduced to the crew who had an excercise on that night i was handed some badges and stickers and helped hoist the new respect the water flag.

It was getting late by the time the excercises were over and too late to make any further progress so under advisement i headed up to the old gunnery emplacement at the top of the hill to find somewhere to camp. Reaching the top i came out onto the grassy fields that had been described to me. They weren't level though. I looked around and saw a couple of lads laid out on the grass watching the sun set.

Cameron and Alfie were around 18 yrs old. Young and free. They'd dropped a couple of micro dots and some ecstasy earlier that evening. I went over to ask them if they knew anywhere I'd be able to pitch up and ended up sitting with them chatting away as the lay on the grass gurning their faces, loved up and completely tripping out.

"You look familiar, are you famous? " Alfie kept asking. "Not as far as i know " i replied each time. As the night drew in the temperature fell. Eventually Cameron and Alfie decided it was time to head home and listen to some tunes in the warm. We headed over the fields and Cameron showed me a secluded spot among the trees just large enough to set up camp. It was perfect and i felt sure I'd be undisturbed during the night. They guys headed off still enjoying their psychedelic experience as i pitched the tent and settled in.

7th July day 488

Although i only had a little over 300 miles to go and was eager to finish, i dreaded it. I'd have no money left and nowhere to stay. I'd have to start living a normal life again but i was nowhere near ready for that. I had no real plans  other than to start training for my next challenge and somehow find the money to make it happen. I also didn't want my journey to end, not yet, but i knew it would have to. Delaying the enevitable was futile.

It was sunny outside the tent so i went through my daily routine and set off towards Charlestown. Arriving at the harbour i was intrigued by three old sailing ships of different sizes. It must have been fantastic living aboard one while the world was discovered, hard work no doubt and I'm sure the crews often had little idea of the significance of their discoveries at the time.

I then continued on to par where i had to detour round the docks taking me along the road until I found the next little acorn that would point the way back to the cliffs and onto fowey. The wind had picked up significantly, blowing me from side to side. I cast my mind back to Scotland and the tornado strength gusts I'd experienced there. This was nothing in comparison. A mere breeze.

Arriving at fowey i headed down to a small beach, the wind had lifted and the waters calmed. I seized the opportunity and quickly readied hoolley for a crossing to Polruan. The paddle went well and i beached up on the other side with no dramas. The current was negligible if at all. Polruan is another ancient village built on steep hills with narrow streets and lined with several welcoming pubs.

Having packed hoolley away i ascended through the streets to the top of the cliffs and followed them away from the village and back amongst the fields and heath lands. The wind had now picked up again and as i turned to look back i could see a large band of rain heading my way. I continued with some haste ready to dive into my pack to get wet weather gear if i got caught.

The rain cloud was getting closer as i made my way round a small peninsula the winds force increased and the skies began to darken. Finding a hawthorn tree thick with foliage i decided to stop and wait, sheltered, for the rain to pass. Again poised to get my waterproofs on if the rain fell heavier than anticipated.

It only took a few minutes to pass so i set off again. The evening was now drawing in and as i looked ahead along the next piece scanning for signs of the coast path  i felt unsure if i would find many places to camp before nightfall. I'd once again have to be an opportunist and take what i could. Carrying on i continued to follow the path away from the peninsula and headed along the cliffs. After a mile or so i descended into a valley I'd seen. There was a waterfall with plenty of fresh clear water and a small grass covered flat topped pinnacle (for want of a better word ) standing between the cliff walls overlooking the beach. I surely wouldn't find anywhere more suitable ahead.

I decided to call it a day and continue on the following morning. I climbed up on to the pinnacle and pitched the tent. There was very little shelter from wind coming in off the sea but it was a lovely spot to pitch. I'd just begun to eat my evening meal, freeze dried chicken and noodles in a black bean sauce when it began to rain again. It was going to be another wet night.

4th - 6th July

4th July day 485

Considering the nights festivities i woke surprisingly early. It was sunny outside and there was barely a breeze. I got my tent which had been drying out over night hung on carls washing line and packed my gear into my rucksack. I then headed up stairs to clear away any mess left from the night before and to say goodbye to amanda. Carl had already got up early and had headed off to meet his son at a festival.

I'd just cleared the table when amanda appeared from the bedroom. "I forgot to take the bacon out of the freezer last night, fancy a steak sandwich? " she said. Every day should be started with a steak sandwich it should be made law. With fresh coffee and a medium cooked steak we sat on the balcony chatting and delaying my departure as long as possible. "Its calling you isn't it" she said. I'd been gazing across the bay at the headland opposite. It was a gorgeous sunny day with very little wind. Very different to that of the day before.

I could have happily stayed another day but I knew i had to get back to the trek and not get too comfortable. It didn't take long to reach Falmouth where my rations were waiting at the local lifeboat station. Alan was the LOM I'd called when i arrived and it only took ten minutes for him get from home to meet me and open up.

We discussed where i had planned to cross in hoolley to the other side of the estuary and with very little wind and the tide just turning things couldn't have been more perfect. Alan then escorted me down to the quay with my kit and box of goodies. When we arrived Alan went off and was chatting to a young lady, i was trying to rearrange my kit to fit the food into my pack ready to head towards the slipway and get hoolley ready for another mile wide paddle. I'd just about fittedit all in when i was approached by another young lady. "I think what you are doing is so inspiring " she said as she handed me a small white piece of card. It was a ticket for the passenger ferry to pick up the coastal path at Place. I didn't know what to say. "It'll be leaving in about a minute, i wouldn't want you to miss it" she said.

I grabbed my pack and slung it over my right shoulder and headed down to the ferry. It felt quite strange getting on board and although I'd been looking forward to another relaxing paddle i also couldn't refuse such a lovely act of kindness. I guess sometimes its ok to bend or break the rules as long as its for a selfless reason.

It was an easy hike round st Andrews point and although the sun was out it wasn't too hot for hiking. Making my way back from the headland i could see what looked like a nice secluded beach some way off. I made up my mind it would serve as a place to stay the night.

Getting closer to the beach i could see another tent, then another. I could hear music. I could see people. My secluded beach wasn't as secluded as I'd thought. In fact it was the venue for a beach party that night. I headed inland away from the music and chatter. I simply wasn't in the mood to party. In fact i wanted an early night to myself.

Away from the crouds at the back of the car park i found a little patch of grass. I could still hear the laughter and the boom boom boom of the bass from the hifi system in the beach but it was muffled and i was tired anyway. Settling in to the tent i broke open a packet of freeze dried sweet n sour chicken, my favourite. 

5th July day 486

I was woken by a loud clap of thunder. Britain's summertime is notorious for being wet and while the rest of the country were experiencing a heat wave i seemed to be getting the worst of it. I took my time having breakfast and waited for the weather to improve.

Around 11am the wind suddenly dropped and the skies cleared. The sun shone down and quickly dried the tent. I jumped into action and got things packed away and set off back up to the clifftop. The day would be spent hiking the increasingly undulating coastal path. Although I had eaten a good meal the night before i was still massively under weight and by the afternoon i began once again struggling to make my way up the hills.

Arriving at doddmans point and well into the evening i looked ahead along the coast. I could see cliffs as far as the horizon. It didn't feel like I'd made any progress but deep down i knew that wasn't the case. Unable to make out any good spots ahead to set up camp i decided that the small level area where i was stood was probably the best i could hope for so i took off my pack and decided to stop for the day.

6th July day 487

Every morning for as long as i can remember it was the same routine. Boil a saucepan of water, rehydrate breakfast and make a coffee. Have a second coffee then put my clothes on while my sleeping mat deflated. Lay out my sleeping bag,  fold it in half and roll it up tight to squeeze bag into its stuff sack. Put the sleeping bag into its dry bag. Squeeze the remaining air from the matress, fold it in three and roll it tight so it fitted into its bag. Pack away the stove making sure it fitted inside the saucepan and put the saucepan into its bag. Take everything out of the tent and go around removing the pegs putting them into their bag. Remove the tent poles and put them into their bag. Fold the tent searching for the best way to fold it before settling on what I'd come up with and stuffing it along with the pegs and poles into its bag.

With a pile of gear on the floor, locate the pockets of the backpack and squeeze everything inside. Finally putting my life on my shoulders and walking away from my home keeping the sea to my right searching for my next temporary camp site.

It was much cooler today and clouds hung motionless in the sky. A couple of miles away was Gorran haven and down on the beach a welcome cafe. I needed to put the weight back on that I'd lost so having a second breakfast was welcome excuse for a break.

From the cafe i headed on for Mevagissey. As i dedcended down towards the neighbouring village, a small cove about a quarter of a mile before i passed a man leant over his garden wall gazing out at the sea. Xle was a musician and singer who lived there with his partner. A chat ensued and i was invited in for a tea and some tesco finest shortbread from Aberdeenshire, arguably the best shortbread anywhere. He simply couldn't believe the journey i had undertaken and almost finished. That is to say i only had about another 350 miles to go. Before i left i was given a bag full of fruit and ghe rest of the biscuits to chow on later although I did attempt to eat as much of the fruit as possible by the time i reached Mevagissey.

Mevagissey was another fishing town quaint in nature with narrow streets lined with shops and bars. But as with every small fishing town or village along this stretch of coast the only way on was by going up. My catchphrase was quickly becoming "you have got to be fucking kidding me!". Reaching the top and looking ahead as far as the eye could see were hills after hills. As i made my way down i muttered "what goes down must come up".

I'd always known the last section of the trek was always going to be the hardest part but i never really thought it would be as hard as it actually was. I seemed to spend the majority of my time stood half way up a climb looking up to see how far i still had to go then turning and looking down at how far I'd come. This continued all day, climb after climb. My mind was slowly wilting, withering away.

I carried on though and as the evening drew upon me and whilst heading down a valley i heard the welcome sound of running water. A stream with fresh clear water a plenty. A seemingly rare commodity recently. I followed the sound til i could climb down and fill my bottles up ready for my evening meal and breakfast the following morning. I really didn't want to continue on but i had little choice. There was nowhere near by i could make camp. I simply didn't know how far I'd have to hike before i could call it a day.

The path now devoid of signs with the little acorn I'd been following had entered beneath the canopy of a woodland. A disadvantage of hiking without a map is the fact that you simply don't know where you're going, where you've been or for that matter where you are. A basic rule of thumb I'd been using was to turn right at every fork or junction and follow it hoping to end up hiking along the coast or at the very least being able to see ahead and plot a route with my eyes. Here all the forks in the trail seemed to lead down to to dead ends or remote isolated houses. Every time I had to turn round and backtrack to the trail and continue on to the next fork. Alot of unnecessary hiking with little progress to show for it.

I did eventually find my way free and a welcome acorn embossed into a wooden post meant i was back heading in the right direction. It didn't take long before my new catchphrase was confirmed. A steep bottomless set of steps would end at the bottom of a set of steps that reached for the heavens and now i was carrying an extra 2kgs of water i hadn't had earlier that day.

My hips were red raw and my knees were squealing out to stop but where. The path was narrow. Ahead i could see a large town but i knew that wouldn't be any good and I simply wouldn't have time before nightfall to hike passed it. Having made the climb i headed back down towards a valley following the edge of a field its back arched steeply. At the bottom and although it wasn't entirely level i found a small corner next to the path. it would do. The wind was now picking up and heavy clouds were moving in above me. I had literally just got pitched and began to inflate my sleeping mat as it started to rain. It was going to be a wet night.

2nd - 3rd July

2nd July day 483

Trying to sleep was difficult, i was hot and clamy and my sleeping bag felt restrictive. My legs and feet hurt and despite my therm-a-rest matress being quite frankly the most comfortable sleeping mat I've ever had i simply couldn't get comfortable. I did eventually pass over to the land of nod and woke rather late in the morning. It was nearly 10am when I opened my eyes. It was raining contrary to the various reports I'd had from those I'd spoken to the day before. I didn't particularly want to pack the tent away with it wet so i slowly made breakfast and waited.

It was just gone 11am when there was a short break in the weather i put my waterproofs on and quickly took the opportunity to pack everything away. The tent was still wet but i had no choice I'd simply have to put up with damp accommodation later on.

I followed the path to flushing a small hamlet on the banks of and met an elderly couple coming the other way. They'd stopped to take shelter from the rain, which had started again, beneath a tree to have some elevenses, a couple of crackers spreading little square butter sachets i think they'd acquired from a hotel or bnb. They asked if I'd be attempting the low tide crossing and described a shorter route around the inlet using two sets of stepping stones. That sounded just up my street. I followed the couples directions and found the stepping stones. The wet weather delay had actually worked to my benefit saving me a good couple of miles hiking round to st anthony on the far side of the inlet.

Having crossed using the stepping stones without incident i picked up the path again and made my way to Helford. As i hiked the sun came out and the skies cleared. I was soon sweating and getting soaked from within my waterproofs. Feeling thirsty i decided to stop at the shipwrights pub for an orange juice and lemonade and to get a charge on my battery packs.

My plan was to use hoolley to cross the estuary before heading on to Falmouth. The tide was almost all the way in and with very little wind i felt confident that a paddle across would be really quite a pleasant experience. Choosing to launch near to the passenger ferry i inflated hoolley,  secured my kit and set off paddling among the boats moored. I did feel tempted with such good conditions to head into the open waters of the English channel but knew that it could in fact be dangerous without knowing the local tides and currents so instead continued on to the village opposite, Helford passage. Landing on the shores without incident I packed hoolley away into my rucksack and located the coastal path finger sign, the acorn emblem I'd been following since Minehead and the start of the south west coast path.

The day had turned out lovely, sunny but not too hot. The hike from Helford passage towards the mouth of the estuary was easy going and looking back i was able to fully appreciate the beauty of the far side where I'd camped the night before and where i had walked during the rain that morning.

Although I  was planning to get to Falmouth by nightfall i took time out to admire the coastal views and utilise the sun to charge my battery pack. It was a popular path and often i stopped and chatted with those walkers heading towards me. It was approaching 6pm when i found myself looking ahead to the castle located on a small headland near Falmouth.  It was where i had planned to camp that night. Whilst peering across and picking out a good place to pitch three dogs. They seemed quite friendly and all wanted patting. Then from the undergrowth appeared Carl and Amanda.

Carl and Amanda were out walking their dogs and had brought with them their next door neighbours blind assistance dog. Seeing my save the children tshirt sparked a conversation about the challenge i had set myself.

Carl then suggested i stopped the night in their guest room and he'd cook up a meal that evening.  Falmouth was only a few miles away and not being in any rush to finish the challenge i accepted. We set off together while amanda walked the dogs. Carl had quite a stomp on and raced ahead i struggled to keep up so suggested he took the pack for the last bit.

It was strange hiking without my pack and feeling light footed we headed back to carls home. The house was in a lovely situation overlooking the sea from the cliffs.  The garden was enormous with unusual and interesting sculptures dotted around. The one that really caught my eye was a giant giraffe and its baby.

After having a shower and getting clean carl cooked up stir fry vegetables and bbq'd some cajun chicken. We cracked open a couple of bottles of red wine and relaxed long into the early hours of the morning. Amanda like a machine gun fired off questions about the trek some more unusual than others such as "Do you shave yourself ?".

It wasn't just i who had an appetite for adventure carl, who was ceo of his own company that produces and supplies toilet paper and paper towels, also liked living life to the full having travelled the world and rowed with three others across the Atlantic ocean.

3rd July day 484

Having completely passed out at around 3am i found myself feeling as the Scottish would say  "mortal". It was 11am when i finally woke. Carl had got breakfast ready, a full English.  It was a welcome start to the day. Carl had been the perfect host and had arranged a massage for me. The massuse commented whilst doing a little reflexology on my feet how lovely they were especially considering what they had gone through.

After the massage i felt amazingly relaxed, almost sleepy. For the rest of the day i continued to relax and caught up on my blogs which dated back to the beginning of the previous month and the start of the southwest coast path in Minehead. Again carl cooked a lovely meal and again we opened up a couple of bottles of wine. Two red and two white.

While we sat eating and drinking amanda, carls financial director whom i think he must have won in a raffle, was prompted to tell me the story of her cat.

Amanda had a black female cat and while she was waiting for her house to be built had to stay with friends only she wasn't able to take her beloved cat pippa. Pippa was instead taken to a cattery where she stayed for several months. When the house was finished and Amanda went to collect pippa the lady who'd been looking after the cat turned to amanda and said "your cats got the biggest balls we've ever seen". Sure enough pippa had somehow grown a set of kahunas and also changed colour from black to brown. I just looked at carl, it was obvious we were both thinking the same thing. When amanda took pippa to the vets, whom obviously not noticed the feline was in fact a male, pippa was re registered as Bournville. I swear i am not making this up.

11th June day 462

My legs were beginning to  feel the stresses exerted on them and just getting to sleep at night was proving difficult. I had always known the last leg of the trip would be the most physically demanding but what had surprised me was how no matter how long I'd been hiking my body still always ached in the evening once I'd begun to relax.

Having packed up my kit i began the long and steep hike up from my valley retreat back to the cliffs and the coastline. As i made my way up  i could feel that the day would be groggy. It felt close, humid and hot. Eventually reaching the top I turned and began following the path the breeze of the sea air feeling refreshing.

The coastal path wasn't exactly level along from heddons mouth but it wasn't exactly challenging either although the path was precariously close to the edge.  That is until i reached the next valley. The skies had now cleared and the sun was shining hard. Before heading back down to sea level and tackling the enevitable climb up the far side i sat on my pack to remove a couple of layers and nibbled on a couple of wagonwheels I'd picked up the day before.

It was a steep descent to the bottom of the valley. Reaching the basin i stopped for a coffee and to make up the packet of super noodles dave had given me before leaving watchet. It was a welcome break before a very steep and long climb up the other side.

I followed path round and down to Coombe martin where i picked up the path on the far side of the bay and followed it towards Ilfracombe. Before reaching Ilfracombe though i had to climb what can only be described as a small mountain steps led from the bottom zigzagging their way to the top in amongst the trees. Reaching the top and feeling a little exhausted it was of some relief to see the path descend into the town next to the harbour.

As i walked towards the harbour to meet some of the crew from the lifeboat station i noticed a rather tall female statue holding aloft an enormous sword. This was verity. A sculpture depicting a pregnant women of which half the statue exposed the unborn child, veritys muscle structure complete with bones and all internal organs. It was really quite bizarre.

Arriving at the Ilfracombe lifeboat station i could see their new jet powered shannon class lifeboat in the newly extended boathouse. Meeting the crew was great but due to building works i was unable to get to the lifeboat and new tractor for a closer look. Being promised a good display of the launch and recovery procedures of the turntable tractor i decided to stop. Finding a local chippy i treated myself to a
chip bun and camped near the old lime kilns across from the harbour.

29th June - 1st July

29th June day 480

By the time I'd woke up hope had gone to check the washing washing i grabbed my tiny travel towel and wrapped it round me and made a coffee. On her return she informed me that it was still damp but should be dry in a couple of hours.

I finished my coffee and headed over to the wash room. The clothes were still a little damp but i felt sure they'd dry soon enough so put them on anyway. After all i was used to wearing damp clothing anyway. When i returned to the tent I began to make us breakfast and another coffee and packed my gear up ready for another days hike.

With everything stowed and our bellies full we left the site together and headed back to the beach where we'd met. Along the way i continued testing hope on her plant identification. I hoped it would spark an interest in this londoner to learn more about nature and what it could provide. I pointed out various plants and asked her to name them. Slowly she was getting it and with less and less prompting from me.

As we continued through the lanes a large dragon fly buzzed down towards us. Hope had never seen one before and ran towards me. She didn't know how to react. Calmly i told her it was ok and this unusual insect was completely harmless.

Reaching the beach we made our way to the ice cream parlour where we'd first met, it was closed but the cafe next door was open. I thought it would be a fitting fairwell to buy us both a cone before I headed off back to the coast path. Taking a seat overlooking the sea we continued to talk and watched the activities of those who had come to praa sands for a holiday.

It was time for me to go. I had a good days hike ahead of me if i wanted to reach the lizard by nightfall and it was already 1pm. Hope decided she would follow me for a bit to see me on my way. Together we found the trail leading towards the cliffs. As we walked i spotted a plant i really wanted to show her. It was burdock, rich in starch and a good staple. We stopped and i dug up the root. Peeling off the dirty outer shell i took a bite and handed it over. Hope was hesitant at first but took a bite too. I think she was quite amazed at how good it tasted. She'd had burdock and dandelion tea but never really considered what it was made from or in deed where it had come from.

Having made our way up the first hill and a good distance from the beach I turned to say goodbye to hope. We had a hug and i sensed she felt a little emotional that our encounter had now drawn to its natural conclusion. As i walked off i concentrated on my next destination a small town called Porthleven. When i arrived i knew i needed to get more food enough to last at least a couple of days. I didn't need much more as i was aware that from now on i would be coming upon more and more villages and would never be far from a store of some description.

It was to be a very hot day with the summer sun shining down on the coast. A cool clifftop breeze was welcome as i continued to hike. Leaving Porthleven where i had sat with some chips and a roll watching children jumping from the quay side into the water and catching crabs in their buckets i knew lizard point was ahead and not beyond reach that day.

As i continued i began to feel weary, the air was clammy. A few miles from the town a came across a beach. There was a fresh water lake  on one side with picturesque surroundings. Trees lined valleys either side and would prove to be a perfect place to camp and get an early night.

I wasn't in a rush to get to the lizard so decided to stop and pitch my tent near to the lake and sheltered from the wind. It was a lovely warm evening and after I'd cooked up another gourmet meal i decided to go for a little swim. Not having any swimming shorts with me i hoped that no one would pass by and if they did then i hoped they wouldn't be offended.

Leaving my clothes on the shore i waded in. It was a little chilly at first but felt refreshing once I'd gone in enough to cover the sensitive parts. Feeling quite free i swam out away from the sandy shore and away from the reeds. The sun had disappeared from sight but over the sea a full moon hung, which incidentally is what any passers by would have seen if they'd been looking at the lake when i decided to dive under the water.

30th June day 481

The skies were once again clear and the sun shining. As i sat in my tent making up a porridge sachet i heard the sound of helicopters and fighter jets flying low to the ground above me. I wondered what was going on. This continued even as i packed my kit away and headed off from the paradise I'd come across.

It was very hot indeed and unusually I decided not to wear my tshirt. It was simply too hot. Thankfully up on the clifftops there was a lovely cool breeze which helped me remain comfortable.

Having used my last porridge sachet that morning i decided that when i reached mullion cove I'd seek out a store and try to find some more. Sure enough the second place i visited did have porridge sachets but they weren't the same as I'd had before. These needed milk added but could I find any dried milk. Well maybe, by going to the last store in the village. As i wondered through mullion looking for the cost cutter i caught a glimpse of what i believed to be goonhilly. Large satellite dishes laid out in an enormous array. They were quite some way off and too far to walk too but i was happy that i had that chance of a glimpse.

Following the instructions of someone I'd asked I came across Denton. Denton was a colourful character with long curly grey hair, a beard and wearing a blue neckerchief with white spots and dungarees. He looked like a typical cornish folk singer. "Save the children" he said looking at my tshirt I'd now put on to enter the shops "the cornish eat children. When you save the children bring em here we're not greedy, one will feed many". He was quite a character. He then burst into song. "My fiancee is 14 years younger than me, and i have one leg shorter than the other and it only has two toes". He showed me as he pulled up a trouser leg revealing a small prosthetic stilt before starting a little jig. I'd met many colourful characters on my journey but Denton was  by far the most unusual.

Leaving Denton who had now turned his attention to two ladies working in a shop we'd walked to together so that i could get a couple of things for later i headed back to the cove and picked up the coastal path. The day was getting hotter by the minute and once again i removed my tshirt to help cool me down very aware that if i wasn't careful i could end up getting burnt again.

I followed the path determination was all that was driving me. The views were lovely but as i rest i didn't pay them much attention all that was on my mind was the intense heat, the dusty trail and the enevitable climbs ahead. As i reached kynance cove i saw three young adults on a small island they had been  cut off by the tide, something i was known for by now. They weren't me though so i went close enough to call out and make sure they were ok. "We're fine, ok" one of them cheerily replied. I wasn't entirely convinced but the tide had begun to turn and as they were well above the water line and in no immediate threat i signalled back ok and continued on. I wanted to reach the lizard at least by nightfall and as i turned each headland it still seemed quite a way off.

Inevitably the miles were covered and the climbs conquered. Arriving at Britain's most southerly point was well not quite what i had expected. I had expected it to be barron with a sign or something saying that I'd arrived at the most southerly point but instead i found a gift shop and a cafe which were both closed. I felt a little disappointed.

As with lands end I'd hoped i would be able to camp up but as with lands end this was not going to be the case. It was still light and I had a couple more hours of light left so i decided to keep going to see if i could find somewhere interesting and secluded to stop.

I followed the coastal path on around the cliffs looking back every now and then trying to find something magical about the lizard, something that would make the place rememberable. To be honest it was truly uninspiring. Gradually the lizard disappeared from sight and i eventually came upon Cadgwith a quaint and old looking fishing village which reminded me of Clovelly. Tightly packed houses and steep cobbled streets. Passing a pub with a sign outside welcoming walkers, muddy boots and dogs i decided to stop for an orange juice and lemonade before carrying on.

The light had now begun to fade and if i wasn't careful i knew I'd find myself having to walk the cliff path with my head torch. Night time was now upon me.  i was about to pass an old disused quarry but luckily for some reason i stopped. A small path led off from the coastal trail down alongside it and to a lovely patch of grass large enough for the tent. It was quite well sheltered and seemed a perfect place to camp.

1st July day 482

Waking to the droning sounds of a fog horn is not really how I'd imagined starting my day with fantastic weather the day before. But then again I was still in Cornwall and should have been used to the weather patterns by now. After turfing out an army of ants from my tent i headed off along the coast. The thick mist was lingering but it was also very warm. After walking only a short way i had already begun sweating.

The coast although shrouded in the vale of white had quite a mystical feel about it. I couldn't see far as the landscape faded off into the distance.

While i hike the footpaths cut off from society the wind gently blowing in my left ear and the sea whispering in my right, the odd sound of birds singing, the thud of my boots against the dry earth and the swashing of water in my bottles i often felt like i could be the last man on earth.

Drawing closer to caverack i began to see signs of life. An electric fence, the tops of roofs, a tarmac road. Then there were people. I headed down to the harbour and made my way  around. I was looking for a local store to get some meat to add to the savoury rice I'd left in my pack. Caverack just wasn't that sort of place. It was a tourist village.  There were pubs, restaurants and expensive art galleries. I had my doubts i would find anymore villages along the way so started checking over in my head what i had left in my pack. I had savoury chicken flavoured rice, porridge and chocolate. That'll do i thought.

I could now feel the sun trying to break through the mist as it slowly burnt away. I carried on away from the harbour safe in the knowledge that Falmouth would only be a day or so away and that i would soon be picking up the much needed supplies jo had sent on.

Having gone round the next headland a rather unusual piece of land that stood a little out of place in Cornwalls landscape in that it was low, it was cliffless, it simply didn't fit, i found myself passing a rather large quarry. The mist had all but dispersed and the sun was beaming brightly. My backup battery packs were both almost void of power and as i was in need of a rest i decided to take some time out to relax, top up my tan but more importantly get some charge on my power monkey solar battery pack.

Its a slow process charging from the sun but at 30% i decided it would be enough to do me for that night. The coastal path soon after inexplicably now veered away from the coast. I had no choice but to follow it. After navigating the roads for a few miles i was then redirected to a seaside village and the path returned to follow the coast once more. As i looked back it became apparent that the rugged cliffs and banked woodlands were too steep for a path to be cut and that was why the diversion was required.

Time was now passing and evening drawing in. My legs were aching and my hips felt sore once more. Ahead but across the water i could see large ships anchored off shore. There was a town situated on the coast, it had to be Falmouth. I knew though to get to it i would first have to paddle across an estuary and with the night drawing in i knew it would have to wait til the following day.

Keeping an eye on the coast i began to look for a viable place to launch. As i continued to hike i found myself at Nare point. Nare point was a coastguards observational point and a place that had been used during the war as a decoy docks which had been so successful it had been bombed nine times. I carried on now heading up the estuary and towards some woods where i found a nice quiet spot with a stream following nearby. Home.

27th - 28th June

27th June day 478

I'd found it extremely hard trying to get some rest during the night. The trains and cars did eventually stop but early in the morning the mechanised noise returned. Climbing out of my tent i went to see where i was. It had been dark when I'd pitched up and hadn't realised that the patch of grass i was occupying was directly in front of a "no camping or overnight sleeping" sign. Oops.

As i made breakfast, mug o porridge with the addition of galaxy ministrels to liven it up i overheard a gentleman with a strong London accent comment with disgust about my choice of campsite, "right in front of the sign". I just chuckled to myself. If the sign had been illuminated obviously i would have seen it and carried on further.

I was just packing my kit away ready to collapse the tent when low and behold stuart turned up wearing a nice solid pair of new boots and a big grin on his face engulfed by his beard that was now noticibly more biblical than when we first met. He was heading on to his next bnb a pub where we agreed we'd try and meet up if i made it that far.

As i left the prohibited camp site i needed to find a public toilet, digging a pit in a public place is often frowned upon. A little way along the beach i came across the first public convenience, it was locked the council had closed it down and was publicising it for rent. Like who would rent a public toilet. The next one i found required 20p for its use which was no good for me as i didn't have any change. Thankfully the one that followed not too far away was open and free. I went in to do my business. As i was comfortably sat relaxing i heard the door close a few cubicles along. This guy really needed to go and obviously didn't care who heard him. He'd either eaten something that didn't agree with him or he had a disfunctional bowl.  As i left having cleaned myself up i saw a woman standing outside. As i passed i turned and said "if thats your husband in there he should really go see a doctor". I carried on, she looked embarrassed.

Reaching the next village i found a cafe, i needed to get a bit of a charge on my battery pack so i order a small breakfast and coffee. Taking my time i ate my meal and headed to the toilets to brush my teeth and have a quick shave. I'm sure they wouldn't have minded. In fact i don't think they even noticed that the hairy man who'd come in and ordered was now clean shaven and looking ten years younger.

The path i was walking was much easier than the previous days and i made good progress. My hips were extremely sore and my back still had bruising from, well as long as i could now remember. Approaching praa sands i could see people enjoying the good weather, building sand castles and swimming in the sea. Families were gathered on the verandas of beach side cafes and bars. It was hot and i was hot. Having plenty of time to get to where I'd hoped to be i decided to stop and treat myself to an ice cream.

As i waited to be served and trying to make my mind up which flavour to indulge in a young lady walked up. I didn't really pay attention at first but we began to chat. Both indecisive about what our pallets were craving. I was edging towards mint choc chip but felt also compelled towards the toffee fudge. Unable to decide and influenced by the young lady i went for a double scope. One of each with the mandatory 99 flake.

Taking a nearby deck chair the young lady ordered her cone and came over for a chat. Hope had fallen on bad times, she'd been staying at a friends after feeling compelled to leave her flat in London when she'd began to research the occult for a documentary she wanted to make. What she  had discovered had disturbed her somewhat and be it paranoia or through genuine fear had fled convinced she was being watched.

Hope (the name she had asked me to call her as we parted company a couple of days later) was a Christian, born again. Having recovered from a rather speckled childhood which had sent her off the rails and into a life of sex and drugs she turned to the bible for guidance. She'd been staying with friends in a squat in Plymouth but when things turned as she put it 'hectic' and her friend had been arrested she headed to a small camp site about a mile from praa sands and borrowing a tent had been camping for two weeks whilst she waited for god to provide. I was somewhat fascinated by her story. Having finished our ice creams we continued to chat and i bought us both a coffee i wanted to  hear more about Hope and to try and understand her absolute faith. I guess i was still searching for answers myself and although i had absolute faith in myself i stil wanted to understand why people put there faith in an unknown power. Christianity and for that matter religion still posed many unanswered questions and this i felt was possibly a way for me to draw a unique insight into why people turn to god and not just the Christian god but gods of any religion.

In no way did i feel threatened by this beautiful young lady who'd had such a dark history so when i was asked where i was staying and what i was planning to do i decided I'd go with the flow. We left the beach together and headed back to Hopes camp site. She had an enormous tent which consisted of two pods and a dining area. She was sleeping in one pod and had her belongings in the other. Having cleared the second pod of her stuff she lay out a duvet and placed a pillow in for me to sleep on.

We continued to discuss her past and her beliefs. She'd turned Christian three years previous and although she rarely went to church she prayed every day and read the scriptures seeking her own answers and putting her faith entirely in god. She said he spoke to him directly and he replied.  She'd admitted she'd had a  falling out with him and had felt let down that she'd now ended up in a field with limited money and no way out.

Hope could talk and i mean really talk. I listened. Hope had only gone to the beach to clear her head that day and although strapped for money had bought an ice cream to make her feel good. I think she was thankful for my company though and as i told her of my journey and about those I'd met along the way. The experiences both good and trying i could see a glimmer of hope in her eye.

It was late when we decided to get some sleep. Hope had suggested that i should take the following day off and spend it relaxing with her so she could hear more and share her faith with me. I couldn't see the harm in it. In fact my body had been screaming out for a rest and i hadn't stopped since Cardiff quite some time before. I agreed and although compelled to complete the challenge i knew also that such distractions were also part of the journey.

28th June day 479

We'd both slept in til gone 10am. It was extremely misty outside and had been raining during the night. I got dressed in my stinking clothes which felt uncomfortable to my skin and made hope and i a coffee and porridge.

On the way to the campsite the day before we'd passed a lovely looking old church. Its architecture was quite unusual and set among the trees it looked quite peaceful. Although i wasn't religious and still unconvinced by hopes faith i suggested that once the mist burned off which was generally the case in Cornwall we went for a walk to pay the church a visit. Hope had never herself in the two weeks she'd been staying at the campsite been and agreed it would be interesting.

While we ate our porridge and drank several mugs of coffee the mist lifted. I wanted to share some of my knowledge about how to survive with hope. I felt that if she were armed with just a little knowledge i could pass on then she would feel better about her situation. I went out from the tent and within minutes had found a stick and several wild edible plants that were easy to identify and grew plentiful around the area.

Hope had never camped before and this was strikingly obvious by the way in which the tent had been pitched. Long screws had been used to tie the inner flysheets down and the outer fly was loose and flapping in the wind. Taking the stick i asked hope what it was. "A stick" she replied "wrong" i said "its a tent peg". Taking my folding saw i cut the stick to size and using my knife i whittled a tent peg. It didn't take long at all before the tent was repitched using the newly crafted pegs. I  then presented hope with the different leaves I'd gathered telling her what they were and how she would be able to identify them after i had gone. Hesitant at first i had hope eat each of the leaves so she could get the taste. The trust began to grow.

With the mist now burnt off and the sun shining down on us we set off to visit the church. I often felt at ease and although not a worshipper myself i did find them a calming place to gather my thoughts and often found myself intrigued by there design. As we walked along the lanes i kept my eye peeled for the plants I'd shown to hope and when i found one i stopped and asked hope to identify them. I hoped i was passively teaching her and she seemed to enjoy the experience.

The church was a humble and fantastic traditional village church. It had the usual welcoming feel as you entered. Hope went to the front and began to pray while i as i always did found a bible and turned the pages to mark 13, the end of days. Some would say it was quite morbid but for some unknown reason I had always been drawn to that chapter. I loved the words.

"Do you see these great buildings? Not one stone shall be left upon another", "For nation will rise against nation, and Kingdom against Kingdom. And there will be earthquakes in various places, and there will be famines and troubles. These are the birth pangs, the beginnings of sorrows".

Having spent several hours at the church hope praying and seeking answers and myself exploring and reading the engravings on the headstones we headed back to the campsite again i quizzed hope on the names of the edible plants.

"Do you need anything washed?" She asked. My clothes did need to be cleaned they were feeling somewhat uncomfortable but only having the one set put me in an awkward situation.  I explained that as long as she was comfortable with me sitting in my boxers while it dried then yes it would be lovely to have my clothes washed and grab a shower.

Having had a shower i stripped off and handed my clothes over. The clean boxershorts I'd planned to sit in had unfortunately gone mouldy in my pack, the plastic bag had been ripped and water had got them damp. They were rank so i decided to throw them out and wrapped my rather small travel towel around my waist so as not to embarrass hope. I'm not sure the towel did that good a job but hope seemed comfortable and went off to wash our clothes.

While we waited for the clothes to dry we toasted marshmallows on my stove and chatted some more. My back had taken a rough time recently so i asked hope if she'd mind rubbing vaseline in to help moisturise the skin.  It had been quite some time since I'd got so intimate with someone and as hope massaged the jelly into my muscles i felt relaxed. Her hands were gentle and caring.