29th Jul 2014
Just as I was getting settled in my
slumber and enjoying my rest it was time to get up. The birds were chirping and
the dog walkers were, well walking their dogs. I hadn't had an evening meal and
only had a few freeze dried meals left so I decided to skip breakfast and see
if I could track down some camping gas. I headed up to the town and located the
local camping supply shop. Thankfully they had the right cartridges. I only had
enough gas for maybe one more boil. I then carried on to the local hospital to
have my leg looked at. The nurse was fantastic and after inspecting the injury
applied what I can only describe as a giant sanitary towel with a wet dressing
beneath. I was told it was a first degree burn and that it would probably scar.
I was also told that I would probably have to keep it covered for the rest of
the journey to make sure it didn't get worse or infected. Thankfully by
paddling in the sea soon after I dropped the pan of boiling water helped reduce
the burn and the salt helped prevent infection. A clumsy mistake but at least
nothing too serious.
I was soon on my way back
down the high street and at the Nairn harbour. I followed the path along until
I was able to get down to the beach. The wind was coming from the west and
hitting me hard making every step hard. I felt like I was burning precious
calories with every step, more so than normal. The beach went from sand and
sunken rocks to shingle and stones making the hike that little bit more
difficult. The wind was relentless.
I'd walked a good few miles
before reaching the end of the beach and faced with my next challenge, a fast
flowing tidal estuary. I had no data signal either which meant I couldn't check
the tide times. I decided that a crossing in hoolley was too dangerous and that
the with the wind against me I probably wouldn't be able to paddle against it.
That meant following the estuary to a point I could cross, and that in turn
meant a good mile or so walking back essentially the way I'd just come and
crossing the salt marshes.
Crossing the marsh was a
struggle, small creeks needed to navigated and bearing in mind the previous
days journey I was conscious of the possibility of patches of quicksand.
Thankfully I didn't come across any.
Walking back up towards the
coast was still being hindered by the strong winds, the backpack weighing heavy
on my hips and shoulders. Ahead of me though I could see a forest and a car
parked up meaning there was a road or track running along the edge.
Arriving near the car I
climbed the bank, now feeling a little exhausted. Now on the road I spotted a
sign next to a locked gate. It was for a port that had been abandoned. I went
round the gate and noticed one of the barriers was up with a hand written note
asking that it be lowered when you passed through it. Being that it was obce
automated I found it a little humorous. I headed for a small building near the
entrance to take a closer look. The port was most definitely derelict, vast
waste land where trucks used to park up. I took my bag off and decided to take
some time out exploring. I headed back to the gates to get some photos. The
owner of the car had now returned after walking her dog so, assuming she was
local, I asked about the history behind the find. Diane informed me that it
once built rigs and was closed sometime during the late 90's. More recently it
had been bought by another company that was to construct wind turbines,
although nothing had actually been dobe about it for some time.
I then headed back in, the
various old buildings firing my imagination and fulfilling my appetite for
exploration. Various species of birds had now taken up residence at the port
and there was a flurry of activity whenever I entered a new building. The port
was huge stretching on to the coast and up to a pine forrest.
I spent a few hours
exploring before deciding to find a place to camp. I decided I'd quite like to
find a nice little place to pitch in the forest and followed a narrow road that
passed between the two. A wide and deep ditch had been preventing me from
entering the forrest until I found a metal improvised bridge. The wind had not
let up one bit, and even once I'd managed to get amongst the trees was still
blowing hard. I wandered among the trees for a while before finding a
reasonably level piece of ground to pitch on. Having to clear the pine cones
and fallen branches away before unpacking the tent and settling in.
It
was now starting to get dark. My long evenings rapidly shortening each day.
Taking shelter behind the tent I rehydrated one of my last meals leaving me
with two. It wouldn't be long now before the challenge becomes that much
harder. Settling in to my new home I waited for Neil from castle fm to call.
While I waited I tried to post an update and reminder on my wall. Though
recently I'd been having problems with my data connection. I couldn't
understand it I had a good signal and although only a slow gprs data feed I
wasn't able to update. I decided I take this opportunity to get to the bottom
of it. I eventually discovered that the apps I'd installed to allow me to edit
videos required a background data feed to and that all these apps were fighting
over the bandwidth. A quick adjustment to the settings and I managed to restore
my data connectivity. Happy days. It was soon time to go on air and as per
usual it was a pleasant natter and one that I always looked forward to.
Afterwards I was able to relax, the wind had now calmed down considerably and I
looked forward to a reasonable nights sleep.
2nd Aug 2014
It was going to be another blustery
day, the wind was howling through the trees and even though I was partially
sheltered their was a bit of a bite in the air. I gathered my stuff together
and packed it away in my pack not knowing what I would be faced with that day.
I crossed over the improvised metal bridge and back to the track I'd come from
the night before. As I walked along the sun started to try and break through
the clouds above. To my left beyond the ditch and in a small field was a sign.
It was too far away to read but I'd seen similar before. It had an air of MOD
about it, british military. The top half containing a map of the area which I
assumed was indicating an area used for weapons training and army activity. I
couldn't read the sign or make out the map though so I had to make sure I was
on my guard, watching out for red flags and sentries as well as listening out
for gun fire.
With this in mind I
continued along the track and back to the coast. Arriving at the beach and
aware of the potential dangers of accidentally getting shot I ventured down to
the sandy shore, a line if white stones between me and a high grassy bank and
beyond that what I assumed was the firing range. The wind had picked up its
pace and making my way along the beach was tough going. Slowly but surely the
tide was coming in pushing me up onto the stones. Leaning into the wind and
holding my pack against my back with my hands I continued walking, every so
often stopping to look for signs of military action and listening out for
machine gun fire.
I'd been told some days
earlier that I would eventually come across an area used by the military for
war games and wondered how long it would be before a tank rolled over the bank
and landing craft breached the shoreline. Ahead of me I could see a sentry box
and cctv camera. The box was empty and it appeared that the camera was
inactive, pointing down to the ground. This had to be a good sign so I
continued on my way, the wind still determined to make the hike that much
harder. A few miles along the beach I came across another sentry box and
camera, again the box was empty and the camera inoperative. Now the coastline
changed, no longer was there a beach to walk along, instead giant boulders
piled against the grassy bank. I made my over a few and decided it would be
safer to make my way up to the grass and follow the bank along. I did this for
about half a mile before I spotted my next challenge. Somebody had
inconsiderably built a fort right on the shore obstructing my passage. I needed
a plan so I sat down against the wall of the fort, took out my stove and made a
coffee.
I'd arrived at fort George,
a rather large and historic stone fort still used by the military to this day.
The tide was in and peering round the corner I could see the water coming right
in close to the walls. Behind me I noticed a sign similar to the one I'd seen
earlier that morning. I went over to inspect. Sure enough there was a map
showing the boundaries of the property. It indicated a narrow passage around
the fort which I assumed would be accessible once the tide receeded. I grabbed
my gear and set off in front of the fortified walls and hoped that the tide was
far enough out that at the very least I would be able to walk close to the wall
and make it round to the other side.
Sure enough as I got closer
I could spot a very narrow passage of stones. Hugging the wall I shimmied round
to the other side where the stony beach opened up, a grassy embankment
providing me a simpler route to circumnavigate the fort. Towards me a man with
a camera appeared. He was obviously a bird watcher, focusing his camera on a
seagull riding the thermals coming off the forts walls. I headed over figuring
that there would be an easy route back to land and back to the trek. As I
passed the twitcher he asked if I was in training. I'm guessing that because my
trousers were kaki in colour people assume that I'm from the army. The reason I
wear that particular colour is because it tends to hide the dirt and stains you
tend to get whilst Clambering over rocks and up mud banks. I explained about
the treck and the challenges I'd faced so far but I got the impression he
didn't believe me, a weird inane "I don't believe you" grin running
from cheek to cheek across his face. I couldn't be bothered to convince him so
I carried on my way, wishing him luck with his photos. To be honest he kinda
freaked me out.
Before leaving the fort I
took a look across to the other side of the river, a spit on the other side so
close I could easily paddle over but unfortunately the water was too choppy and
tge current appeared to be extremely strong so I decided against unpacking
hoolley and instead decided to head along this shoreline towards Inverness to
cross over at the Kessock bridge. It was a shame as the journey to and from
Inverness would take a couple of days to navigate. I left the fort through the
car park and along the road looking for a way to get closer to the waters edge.
Signs lined the bank saying the edge was dangerous and that it was inadvisable
to proceed. Normally I would usually ignore such signs but in this case I let
common sense prevail and took the advice on board. I followed the road, which
ran parallel to the shore towards the next village. I wasn't far from the shore
and figured that after what I'd had to contend with that morning a little break
from adventure had been earned. There was also a small prize waiting for me
along the roadside. Raspberries and to my surprise blackberries. I'd been
keeping an eye on the blackberry bushes for some months now watching them
flower and start to produce their fruits. It was now approaching the time where
the berries would be ripe so finding a handful to chomp on was indeed a lovely
consolation for not struggling along the stony embankment less than a hundred
meters away. After having a delicious break and enjoying my small but juicy
harvest I continued along the road, then I spotted another little gem. Beech
nuts laying on the floor, the shells browned and peeling back. This meant that
they were ready to harvest as well. I gathered what I could find and began
munching them too. Being able to identify wild edible plants is an essential
skill anyone thinking of attempting an expedition should learn as it can mean
the difference between life and death and the fact I only had two meals left
meant that I would be able to save them for a time when I could find nothing else
to eat.
Eventually I arrived at
Ardersier which meant I'd be able to get back to the coast and back to the
adventure. I passed through a gate and through a field down to yet another
stony shore. The wind hadn't let up but at least thankfully it wasn't raining.
Making my way over the large stones was hard going and the weight of the pack
digging into my hips making every step uncomfortable.
It was starting to get late
now and I'd misjudged how far Inverness actually was and how long it would take
me especially fighting the power of the wind every step of the way. Ahead of me
I could see a patch of grass which looked reasonably level, a small woodland
behind. I decided to pitch next to the stony beach on the grass and take a look
round the woods seeking some kind of edible food. Thankfully I found a cherry
tree, my spirits lifted but only briefly. There were only two ripe cherries
hanging from the tree. I picked them and enjoyed the sweet taste whilst
continuing with my foraging. Unfortunately I didn't find anything else other
than clover and nettles, but I did find a discarded garden chair. A little
luxury I wasn't used too. I headed back to camp and took out obe of my rations
to rehydrate. Chicken tikka with rice. I was now down to just one meal and a
few breakfast bars.
The following morning the
wind had died down. it was still cloudy though which meant that the wind could
return or even rain. After packing up camp I carried on along the stony beach
to a salt marsh. Remembering the recent adventure with quicksand and scanning
the terrain I figured the possibility of the silt being soft was high so
instead of heading directly across the marsh I kept to the edge and hiked
round. It wasn't long before I was faced with my first challenge of the day, a
wide creek too wide to jump and to deep to wade through without the risk of
getting stuck. A series of kelp covered boulders which spanned the width though
did seem like a viable route across. Carefully I placed each foot obe in front
of the other, balancing the weight of my pack as I did. It was tough going and
a few slips here and there made me take deep breaths and pauses looking for
stable boulders to use as a bridge. On the other side a soft muddy bank, I took
a leap of faith, instantly sinking but rapidly scrambling to the top I took a
deep sigh of relief. Filming the crossing for the enjoyment of my followers
didn't make the crossing aby easier so I hoped they appreciated the extra
effort made in the name of entertainment.
I continued round the marsh
following shore, passing a boat wrecked up on the bank. Now away from the marsh
i had to walk over a mixture of stones, sand and kelp laying strewn over small
rocks and boulders. I heades round the headland to a small community of houses
where I took a small break, sheltering from the wind which had now started to
pick up.
Unable to continue along
the shore, houses had blocked my path i had to follow the road out of the
hamlet which thankfully took me along the shore. Again the road was lined with
blackberry bushes so as I walked I kept an eye out for ripe berries. I only
found a few but that was enough to give me a little boost.
It was a mile or so hiking
along this section of road which lead to some kind of treatment or processing
plant. From there I was able to take shelter from the wind and made my way
round to the beach on the other side and start the final leg to Inverness.
It then started to rain. I
grabbed my wet weather gear and put it on. I was severely lacking in power and
needed to find somewhere to plug in, the poor weather making my solar charger
inoperable. I exited the beach and found myself near an industrial estate. I
headed into town to get charge on phone and backup battery. Using the last few
quid in my pocket I ordered a Mc milkshake and made it last several hours.
It was getting dark now,
the sun setting earlier and earlier each night. I wanted to at least be on the
other side of the river that night so with a reasonable charge I set off for
Kessock bridge. A little disoriented in the centre of Inverness I followed some
signs to the river ness knowing that once I found the river I would eventually
find the coast and ultimately the bridge. Its not often I had water to my left
but this was a navigational exception.
By the time I'd found and
crossed the bridge it was getting really late and arriving at the rnli
boathouse next to the shore beneath the bridge I figured I would call it a day.
I found a small piece of grass nearby just large enough to pitch up on and
climbed into my sleeping bag. Granted I was a little hungry but I was too tired
to care and I didn't have enough water to rehydrate my last ration pack anyway.
That night was a restless
one to say the least. The floor was hard and stones kept digging into my hips,
chest and back. I was starting to wonder when I'd last had a good night's
sleep. In the morning I got up and found a squashed flapjack in my pack so
boiled the last of my water for a coffee and had breakfast. It startes spitting
with rain so I moved my kit under the bridge and packed up. As I was just
finishing I saw a man pull up to the boathouse and open the door. I headed over
assuming it was a crew member.
It turns out stan was the
mechanic for the station. He invited me in for a coffee, natter and to fill my
water supplies. While chatting about the challenge stan offered me the use of
the stations showers and asked if anything needed repairing which reminded me
that I'd been a bit concerned about a potential puncture in hoolley. I unpacked
hoolley and we headed down to the workshop. While stan worked on repairing the
pack raft he asked if there was anything else needed fixing. I had to chuckle,
pretty much every piece of kit I had with me needed some kind of repair. I went
back up stairs and grabbed the tent, hydration bladder, sleeping mat and pack
rain cover. The hydration bladder had been leaking now for some months, a thorn
had pierced my pack and put a tiny hole in the container near the filling cap,
stan, being resourceful set to work looking for materials to plug the leak. He
then set to work on the matress. Patching each puncture as we found them. While
stan was working on the other bits a got to work on the tent and the backpack
rain cover. A few sparks from various fires had made small holes in the outer
fly and groundsheet. Using duct tape I applied patches. We were at it almost
all day but eventually felt sure we'd done the best we could. Afterall it had
to be some improvement on what I'd been using till now .
Before I left the station
stan asked if there was anything he could send me away with, he grabbed some
biscuits and a couple of cans of soup. He then disappeared and returned with a
long length of corded rope which would be useful for making a pulley system or
tieing ligs together to make a shelter. I packed it all away, filled up with
water and set off along the river to get at least a few miles in before camping
up for the night.
The tide was now in and a
suitable path along side the river was hard to see. About a mile from the
station I found myself cutoff by a rocky formation. I could either head back
and use the road or carry on by traversing the rocks. I didn't want to head
back feeling defeated so I traversed the rocks. It was a really hard climb
especially with the load on my back. One false footing or hand placement meant
I'd fall into the river below, boulders and rocks submerged beneath the water.
Carefully I made my way round balancing my pack as I did. Once round the
obstruction I carried on, walking over kelp covered boulders and stony bays
till I reached a small enclosure which looked a bit like a builders yard. I
decided to sit down and heat up one of the tins of soup and take a break. I
hadn't eaten much that day other than a few buscuits and it was taking its
toll. As I was just clearing up a couple of mountain bikers which had come from
the other way stopped for a little chat. Lovely guys and before they headed off
again threw me an energy drink sachet which I figured could come in handy in
the future. I then carried on following the trail they'd made through the ferns
towards a small hamlet if maybe a dozen houses.
On the other side of the hamlet I had to head through a field to get back to the shore. The shore was very stony with a few boulders. Covering the stones and boulders was a vast field if kelp. I figured that if the worse came to the worse at least I would be able to boil that up and add it to the rice I was carrying. Eventually though it became to treacherous to walk in the shore, the kelp to slippery to walk over for fear if slipping and causing yet another injury. A twisted ankle ir worse still a break. I climbed up onto the grassy bank to hike along bank. This was more dangerous than the kelp covered stones, obscured potholes and channels. After falling into a couple of them and thinking this was like playing minesweeper I headed back to the stones and kelp.
On the other side of the hamlet I had to head through a field to get back to the shore. The shore was very stony with a few boulders. Covering the stones and boulders was a vast field if kelp. I figured that if the worse came to the worse at least I would be able to boil that up and add it to the rice I was carrying. Eventually though it became to treacherous to walk in the shore, the kelp to slippery to walk over for fear if slipping and causing yet another injury. A twisted ankle ir worse still a break. I climbed up onto the grassy bank to hike along bank. This was more dangerous than the kelp covered stones, obscured potholes and channels. After falling into a couple of them and thinking this was like playing minesweeper I headed back to the stones and kelp.
The sun was now starting to
go down so I decided to start looking for somewhere to hold up for the night.
Ahead of me I could see a single oak tree on a small piece of level grass
covered ground. It seemed like a goid quiet place to stop.
I
set up camp and with an element of excitement I blew up the matress hoping to
finally get a good nights sleep.
2nd Aug 2014
The next morning I woke around 9:30, a
fairly reasonable rest I'll admit, unfortunately though the matress had
deflated meaning that the patches stan had applied had either not held or we'd
missed a puncture. Oh well at least ut stayed up long enough for me to fall
asleep. I made a coffee and had the second can of soup before setting to work
catching up with the blogs. I was a few days behind due to filming and
photographing. It took all morning to write up my adventures but eventually
finished. It was cloudy and a little damp by the time I was ready to start
packing up. I was also out of water once more so needed to get to the next town
to try and find drinking water. I also needed ideally to clock up a fair few
miles.
I left my site beneath the
tree had set off east, the wind having made a complete 180° turn on me and once
again beating me down. Playing minesweeper and unable to get down to the stony,
kelp riddled shore because the tide was in , so I followed some deer tracks.
After about half a mile I reached a headland hoping that the way to the next
town would be simple. It was a large bay and needed to be walked round but in
order to get to the bay I needed to either traverse a rock face or wait till
the tide receeded. I had a scout round to check the possibility of climbing
round the rocks but decided that it would be safer to wait it out. Thankfully
there was a small cave to shelter under while I waited. The cave was I suppose
more like a huge rocky lean to and Somebody had also cut logs and left them
there in the dry. To be honest it would have been a perfect little site to camp
at and although I was tempted to stay the night the fact I needed water
prevented it. I did however look around while I was there to see if I could
find a fresh water source, but the search was fruitless. I found dry tinder
amongst the crevasses in the rock face nearby and built a small fire to keep me
warm while I waited. As I sat there watching the fire I wondered what I would
find around the corner.
Low tide was to be at 9:30
pm but I only needed the tide to be low enough for me to get round the rock
face. Slowly but surely the tide lowered and after a couple of hours I was able
to more safely carry on with the trek. I grabbed my pack and began to clamber
over the slippery rocks and around into the next bay which in turn lead me onto
the following bay. Never knowing what you will come across obviously gives you
a sense of uncertainty but thats the price of adventure and in return your
veins fill with adrenaline. Is it possible to have too much adrenalin? It
didn't matter I was on a trip of a lifetime so long as it didn't cost me my
life. As I crossed the final bay I noticed a largish cave and couldn't resist
taking a look even though it had now begun to rain and a heavy mist had emerged
from ahead. The mist being so thick I could no longer see the town I was
heading for.
At the mouth of the cave I
put my pack down and grabbed my torches. I shone my pocket torch down the dark
tunnel to see how far it went. Suffice to say I couldn't see the back which
meant this was going to be a great little mini adventure. I started going in to
the void, crouching down as the tunnel narrowed and the ceiling lowered. I
continued on finding myself in a small cave that I could now stand up in. I
wondered how much further I would be able to get. Once again I shone my torch
into the darkness. The cave reached back another 10 feet so I leaned in for a
closer look hoping to find another tunnel to explore, unfortunately though that
was a far as it went. I knew that my followers would like to see what I'd
explored so I decided to shoot some short video clips and headed back to the
pack. Exiting the cave I noticed the weather had gotten considerably worse so I
grabbed my pack and set off once more along the bay. It was stony and slippery
with kelp hindering my progress. As the bay opened up I glanced across to
assess the risks of making a crossing in hoolley. The wind was extremely strong
and the visibility worsening. I decided against a quick paddle as it could have
eventually ended badly and instead continued along the bay. One of the worse
things about the trek is sometimes it looks easy to hike to a location be it a
town or landmark but in some cases unexpected land formations can slow your
pace. In this case the bay had become a Loch and the distance I needed to walk
considerably more than I had expected. It was a little frustrating as I knew it
would only have taken about 20 mins in the pack raft but now it would take
several hours at least. It was also getting late now and the sun was soon to be
setting. I carried on though regardless until I hit another salt marsh. I
started to across the marsh until the silt beneath my feet became too soft to
safely walk on. I turned and headed towards the bank. Along the way I collected
samphire to nibble on as I'd not eaten since the morning. I was now hoping that
the bank would take me all the way round the loch but again I was to be
disappointed. A boggy marsh backed up to the Loch and I had no choice but to
climb a fence and head inland towards a small forest. The consolation for this
though was wild raspberries, I wouldn't say the perfect compliment to samphire
but a delicious dessert none the less.
After collecting and eating
the berries I made my way through the heavy and thick growing weeds up to a
small track. It was still raining and the rain water had begun to collect in
puddles. It wasn't the best source of water I could hope for but at least I'd
be able to filter it, boil it and ultimately drink it. I took my water bottle
out of my pack and filled it up. It wasn't the nicest looking water, in fact my
pee looked considerably clearer but it was at the very least free from salt and
certainly preferable than drinking my own urine. Feeling a little happier that
I would at least be able to hydrate my last meal and have a coffee I set off
following the track through the woods and alongside the loch.
Eventually though the track
ended and I found myself ib front of a fence. Climbing the fence I startled a
young deer that had been lying in the long grass ahead of me. That was the
second deer I'd seen, the first was during the morning as I was packing up
camp. I now found myself in a field of long grass and had to wade through in
order to keep going. The wet grass was hard work to say the least, tangling up
my feet and legs. In the distance I could see a derelict cottage just up on a
hill. I decided I would head for it to get out of the rain and dry off at least
a little. It would also be a place I would be able to boil the water I had
collected and have something to eat while I decided what to do next.
I climbed up the hill and
entered the property. It was an old farmhouse which still had half a roof which
under th circumstances was a huge bonus. I took off my pack and set about
making a filter by using a sock, some sand and small pebbles I found around the
building. It wasn't ideal but the best I could manage with the resources to
hand. When making an improvised filter you should really put charcoal at the
bottom then the sand abd finally the small stones or pebbles. Still it filtered
the crunchy stuff out of the water although it still looked murky. I then
boiled the water for ten minutes to make sure the nasty bacteria you couldn't
see was neutralised and killed off. Satisfied I'd done all I could to make the
water safe I rehydrated my last ration, chilli con carne and made a coffee.
While enjoying my evening meal I decided that the old farm house would make a
reasonable improvised shelter for the and the fact it was now getting dark
meant that it would be hard work trying to find another suitable place to rest
for the night.
I
laid my ground sheet out on the wooden floor and inflated my matress. I then
took a plastic bag from my back and improvised a rain catcher hoping that if it
rained hard that night I would have fresh water the following morning.
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