30th Jun 2014
The sound of diesel engines revving up
on the industrial machinery was enough to wake the dead. To early to really
comprehend what was going on I packed up and headed for the town centre to get
some wet wipes as mine were severely depleted. There is nothing worse than
running out of wet wipes when you really need them. At the local store they had
a deal going, buy one get two free! They were practically giving them away. The
problem was though that I was now carrying about a kilo of wet tissues. I
wouldn't have minded so much if I could have used the water in some way but
these had additives making the water undrinkable. Still at least I wouldn't
need to replenish them any time soon.
On my way back to the coast
I decided to grab a coffee and get a sneaky charge on the phone, which it
really needed. I headed down to the promenade and followed it along till the
end. At low tide I would normally be able to continue on my way but it was only
just coming up to high tide which meant I would either have to wait or I'd have
to follow the high tide alternative route. I wasn't going to wait that long for
the tide to recede so opted for the high tide route. I passed under the railway
and followed the road along up the hill above the railway and high above the
tide. About half way up the hill I spotted a monument so decided to stop and
take a closer look.
The monument was a tall
obelisk with a cross on top. On the front was a depiction of a king and above
that an inscription explaining that it was a memorial to the last king of
Scotland who was accidentally killed nearby. I later discovered that it was
king alexander 3rd and apparently he accidentally rode his horse of a cliff in
the mist. A definite contender for the darwin awards.
It was quite a hike before
I was able to return to the coast, leaving the road and heading down a narrow track
overlooking the sea below. As I carried on I kept an eye out for whatever wild
foods I could snack on as I went and after the previous days cherry pickings
was hopeful for more summer fruits. There was plenty of sorrel about and the
usual suspects such as nettles and dandelion. I'd quite developed a taste for
sorrel as it does taste very similar to apple peel. I'd walked a fair few miles
by now and the grass pollen was really playing havoc with my hay fever so it
was a really pleasant surprise when I stumbled on wild strawberries growing
along the path. Much smaller than the ones you get in stores or at pick your
own farms they taste exactly the same and best off all are free and organically
grown. I feasted as I walked, content with my gatherer skills. There wasn't
much else to see until I came across the ruins of Seafield tower. Of course I
had to stop and explore. That didn't take long as there wasn't much left of it.
A sign nearby said it was a good place to see seals but I didn't see any. It
was hot so I figured the seals were probably bathing in the cool sea so set off
to Kirkcaldy along the beach I'd now found myself at. When I got closer to the
town it became apparent that due to promenade repairs / rejuvenation I would
have to walk round next to the road. A truck stop not far away provided me with
a good excuse for a small break. I ordered a coffee and sat outside staring at
the sea and watching the dark clouds on the horizon approaching. I was about
half way through my coffee when it started spitting. I quickly finished off my
drink and put my jacket on. Then it started hammering it down. An old 18
wheeler artic trailer parked up on the far side of the truck stop presented
itself as a perfect temporary shelter. I dived underneath and took out my wet
weather trousers. I sat for a moment hoping the rain would subside before
carrying on. There was no point in getting drenched and risking illness. I
waited for about 10 mins as the rain lifted off and set off again.
By the time I got to the
other side of the town the skies were once again clear and the sun was back
out. Just around the corner was Ravenscraig castle, a well kept ruin open to
the public. I used this opportunity to take off my wet weather gear and wander
round the castle. I must admit I have always imagined castles to be massive,
but so far the castles I've found have been considerably smaller than expected.
Slinging my pack back on I
set off down from the castle back to the beach below. An old set of steps at
the far end providing false hope of an easy journey. Overgrown and abandoned
the steps led nowhere, I had no other choice than to go back and follow the
coastal path. The path followed old walls and provided an interestingly unique
view through the trees of the small wood I was passing through.
The
woods eventually ended and were replaced by red and yellow rocky cliffs of
sandstone. Ahead a tunnel was chiselled into a cliff face blocking passage. I
love tunnels and couldn't wait to see what I would find on the other side.
30th Jun 2014
The tunnel was perfectly cut into the
cliff, at the far end I could see light and with no other way to go head off
towards it. When I emerged on the other side I found myself in a harbour. Now
normally I would compare it to one of the many harbours I had previously
visited, this harbour was very different though. Oddly shaped and split into
three smaller harbours this one was very different and I found myself intrigued
by the unusual shape. After pausing for a moment to take it all in I moved on
through Dysart and around to the viewpoint. A huge arty piece, several upright
square wooden poles brightly painted towering above the water. I sat myself
down and munched on an energy bar, the crumbs falling to my feet attracting
pigeons which had been perched on the roofs of nearby buildings. One pigeon
ventured extremely closely, its bravery being its potential downfall. I sat
very still, recipes running wild in my head. It wandered in between my legs
after a tasty chocolate chip that had fallen. With one distinct rapid movement
I reached down and grabbed at the neck of the pigeon, my mouth moist with the
anticipation of a succulent pigeon breast reward. Unfortunately I wasn't quick
enough, the birds wings flapping and head ducking I missed my opportunity.
I'd decided early that day
that a small wooded area just beyond Dysart would be my home for the night and
after my opportunistic failure to aquire a tasty evening meal I set off to
locate it.
I followed the path along
the sea wall away from the village and head up a track to the clifftop. At the
top there was a fence stopping the public from venturing into an unsafe place.
A gate bearing the sign, enter at own risk. Perfect, I felt that as long as I
didn't go too close to the edge I probably wouldn't be disturbed. I went
through and followed the old path into the forest. It lead me down thirty feet
before levelling out. This was a wild place and perfect for a camp. It didn't
take long before I found somewhere suitable to set up the tent. Feeling quite
alone but content I bed down hoping for a pleasant day the following day.
At around 3am I was woken
by the sound of rain hitting the flysheet. I rolled over and went back to
sleep. I'd gotten used to rain during the night and didn't let it worry me,
still hoping for a reasonably decent morning.
Thankfully the rain had
passed and the sun was out once more. I had breakfast and packed up camp before
heading back up the cliffs following the old trail. I rejoined the path at the
top which in turn led me back down passed another harbour. A little further on
and I saw a quaint copse with a glorious red stained sandstone cliff for a
backdrop. The cliff face was truly awesome looking and the sun hitting it
through the leaves of the trees took me back to my time rock climbing in Railey,
Thailand. I wondered through the copse, a perfect path winding its way through,
and emerged on the other side. It would appear that a home had been chiselled
into the cliff but had since been blocked off. A gorgeous mosiac had been Where
the window and door once stood. After a short break of curiosity and
appreciation I carried on, the path taking me through an old boat yard and back
in to wild country.
The grasses were long and
the path narrowed once more. To my right the sea and to my left, well a huge
cave with a sign saying"dangerous cave". Awesome I had to go in. Brick pillars
had been erected to support the roof and one tunnel led to another and finally
to a dead end. I carried on, content that my days exploration was satisfied.
It wasn't long before I
found another cave, the day was becoming something quite unexpected. I went in
of course. I had to look around. This cave was smaller than the first but was
far more interesting. Chiseled square holes were all around the cave, loads of
them. They certainly weren't natural phenomena and had to have served a
purpose. What exactly I couldn't say for sure, but I did imagine the skulls of
old pirates being stored there as a sacred pirate tomb.
It was still early in the
day and I still had several miles to cover before I needed to look for a camp.
I followed the path along the clifftop, ahead of me another great opportunity
for exploration, the ruins of a tower or maybe better still an old castle.
I approached the ruins,
surrounded by nettles and shrubs. The sun was still shining hard. I placed my
bag on the floor, grabbed my head torch and went over to explore. I started by
looking around the perimeter finding a small subterranean room around the back
concealed by the brambles and nettles. I went in to see if it lead anywhere
interesting. It was self contained with an arched roof, rubble laying on the
floor. I turned to exit and climbed back through the hole I'd squeezed through
to get in. I then went back to the main tower part of the ruins. The main entrance
had been blocked off by an iron gate. The slats perfect for climbing to the
second level which although had been bricked up, was very much accessible.
Using my climbing skills I climbed the gate and used the decaying stonework to
facilitate the rest of the climb.
Once inside the ruins I
headed up the spiral staircase to the panoramic view at the top. It was like I
was on top of the world. I then headed down to the lower level. The spiral
staircase leading down below the surface passed the gate to another
subterranean room. Much like the first only much bigger. Feeling extremely
content with the days findings I head back up to the second floor and exited
the ruins in a similar way to my entrance. This time I had to climb down
though.
I
left the ruins wondering what history there was behind the ancient walls and
followed the path, this time I had to deviate from the clifftop and ended up
walking between some fields, the undulating curves of corn looking like a scene
from the children's programme teletubbies. I've had to now simply accept that
you can't always get as close as you would like to the sea and attempting to
quite often proves fruitless. The path eventually came out at Buckhaven. The
only route I could follow was the road. Houses and a wind turbine construction
site backing up to the shore line. I walked through the town and on into Leven.
30th Jun 2014
From Leven I followed the beach which
to be honest was very much like half a dozen or so beaches I'd passed along the
way. A few miles hiking and I entered into the village of lower Largo. To most
of you this won't mean a thing, it is however reasonably ironic to my current
situation although not so dramatic. Lower largo is where an unassuming sailor
was born. Alexander Selkirk was left stranded on then island of juan fernandez
for four years and four months. he survived living off the land and was the
inspiration for the novel by Daniel defoe, "robinson crusoe". In the
village was a statue of the character, and I wanted to find it. I walked
through the sleepy village passing yet another harbour as I did so. I turned a
corner and BAM the most grotesque and yet strangely interesting statue hit my
visual senses like a baseball bat going for a home run. I had to take a picture
and post it. I must admit it wasn't what I was expecting by any stretch of the
imagination. I uploaded the photo to Facebook with an appropriate explanation
using the last of my phones power. I then set off up the street pondering about
the unusual statue that for some reason others had been proud to talk about.
Then I saw it, the actual statue, Robinson crusoe standing hard and fast
looking out to sea, seeking for any sign of rescue above the front door of the
cottage Selkirk was born in. Ah! Damn I'd photographed the wrong statue, oops.
I looked at my phone, it had a critically low power indicator showing which
meant I could make a quick call but all other operations were suspended. To say
I was a little upset is a bit of an understatement, there was nothing I could
do about it now I just had to keep going.
I headed out of the village
and onto a long sweeping bay with a wide sandy beach. The tide was way out and
I walked along next to the sea, towards a small forest that would soon be home
for the night. The sand was soft in places and even softer in others, fully
aware of the dangers of quick sand and fast rising tides, I made sure each step
count and quickly at that.
As I approached the far end
of the bay I noticed a small river running out to the sea, thankfully at low
tide I was simply able to wade through ankle deep and clamber up the bank to
the small pine forest that awaited me at ruddons point. I found a nice little
clearing amongst the trees and cleared the peat away to level the ground out as
best I could.
Once
camp was made I used the last of my phones power to call jo to organise what I
thought would be my final resupply. I'd massively underestimated the cost of
the trek and was now down to my last weeks worth of rations and still had at
least another 8 months trekking. I wasn't too concerned about that as I felt
confident that my bushcraft skills and ability to survive on wild edible plants
and animals would help me get through. It wasn't like when I'd started and
there was nothing in season, it was now summer and the fruits should be
plentiful and snaring a rabbit or squirrel was simply a case of being patient
and not giving up. I was going to finish what I had started no matter what.
30th Jun 2014
Supplies are pretty much always
delivered to a post office and always arranged two or three days ahead of time.
Now I checked my pack to take stock of what I had left, 1 freeze dried
breakfast, a few energy bars and a packet of rice. These would have to support
me for at least two full days and I'd decided to eat the breakfast that
evening. After we decided where I would pick up my final rations of the trip I
finished the conversation leaving jo instructions about what I wanted engraved on my headstone "here lies Adam short,
Rotting In Pieces. He dared walk where angels feared to tread" I figured
that about summed it up.
Well I slept really well, the peat
making an extremely comfortable matress. The birds were chirping away and the
sun was out. It was going to be a lovely day. I took my time packing up and set
off round the point and then down onto the small sandy bay on the other side.
When I reached the far side of the bay I had to follow a track that took me up
onto a well worn track over the cliffs. The first corner I came round providing
me with a stunning view of some unusual rock formations jutting out from the
cliffs and into the sea below. Flattened hollows amongst black rugged outcrops.
I followed a set of old steps chiselled out of boulders up to the top of the
cliff. At the top I saw an old concrete building that looked from a distance to
be an old world war two command centre. I approached the building wishing I'd
still had power to take photos, negotiated a tree that had taken root in the
main entrance and began to explore. There were three rooms, one small and the
other two of equal size. Through a door at the far end was, well a balcony for
want of a more descriptive term. Once again the views were amazing, and
especially on such a bright and clear day. I sat down on my bag and decided to
sketch a floor plan to best illustrate the dimensions and remind me later the
layout of this find.
It wasn't the finest ex
military building I'd seen, certainly not compared to the nato bunker at raf
Bawdsey, but it was worthy of a quick peek. I didn't have to go far before I
came across a large gun battery, now completely in ruins. The thick concrete
walls laying over each other and the pit that would have housed the canon still
in tact over looking a lovely and peaceful sandy bay and small town. Looking
ahead I could see yet another concrete building, this one much smaller than the
first and obviously a relic from the war. I guess this location was of military
significance during the war.
I set off towards the
building, literally inches from falling to certain death. The path cut into the
cliff face well above the rocks and sea below.
No comments:
Post a Comment