21st - 26th July (nf)

 

21st July day 502

It was a lovely sunny morning. I woke early and set off back towards Fortuneswell the town I'd entered portland through. With only one way on to portland bill and one way off i followed the road to Weymouth. Weymouth had changed considerably since I'd last visited.  During the Olympic games the town had undergone a major changes to the road and had transformed into quite a pleasant place to visit.

I followed the path through Weymouth towards durdle door up over the cliffs with some strenuous climbs and falls. As i followed the path to its high viewpoints and down into little valleys the coast began to cast my mind back to when i was a child and how my parents had made us walk this part of the coastal path. I remembered a particular time they bought a four man canvas ridge tent and on the first night camped in a site nearby a heavy storm howled through. A lot of damage to tents and caravans around us was caused. We survived unscathed with our tent holding up to the gales that had devestated other campers holiday.

Lulworth cove passing a sign directing walkers to scratchy bottom.

The path now seriously undulated over white chalk cliffs

Reaching the range at Lulworth i was stopped dead in my tracks. The British army were practicing with heavy artillery. I had a choice of waiting it out and hoping they'd reopen the walk after school was out or backtracking and making my way inland to follow the range boundaries around. I decided to wait. It was coming up to 5pm and i felt sure they gates would be unlocked soon after.

Picked up by jo

Treated to carvery

Shower

22nd July day 503

Got the last of my rations joanne had been keeping for me

Rob picked me up from jos to take me to poole rnli for tour

Got gas dropped back at Kimmeridge

Large cracks on cliffs

Loads of butterflies as i walked between bushes

Weather better than expected

Guns still firing at range

Dancing ledge popular with climbers

Having passed dancing ledge i began looking ahead for a rather large and familiar land mark, the isle of Wight.

Reaching anvil point near durlsdon i was able to just about make out its outline on the horizon.

Swanage was still a few more miles ahead but passing tilly whim caves

Swanage was bustling with holiday makers, the bars and restaurants where full

Continuing to follow the coastal path  i left swanage behind and headed up to the cliffs towards old harry rocks

The sun was setting quickly and it was approaching nightfall when i arrived at the white chalk pinnacles.

I set up camp and tucked into one of the rations i picked up at joannes.

23rd July day 504

It was a pleasant start to the morning

I set off to complete the last three miles of the south west coastal path

Looking across the water i could see the entrance to poole harbour hooleys next crossing and a little further along Bournemouth and Boscombe

Walked Studland beach no nudists

Crossed to sandbanks met rutters on the far side condor ferry came out of the harbour shortly after i crossed

Walked with rutters to Boscombe and met reuben photo op with paddleboard

Carried on to hengestbury head

In all the years i had lived around Christchurch I don't think I've ever actually walked around the beach at hengestbury head. Usually i followed the path to the viewpoint and then onto the lily ponds.

Reaching the end of the sandy beach i could see mudeford quay and the run. Of all the crossings hoolley and i would make during the trek this stretch of water was the one i feared the most. I knew its reputation first hand having kayaked it in my rigid. It was a very quick flowing stretch between hengestbury head and where i wanted to be. It was called "the run" for a reason.

I had a plan though and arriving just as the tide was turning gave me the advantage i wanted. Getting in to the water harbour side and paddling across i knew I'd catch the current heading out to sea. The channel at this point is very narrow and fast moving but i knew i could get across easily then simply guide hoolley out towards the beach.

Just as i launched the ferry came round the corner. This was not good

Followed ferry little else to do

As the ferry turned to pull up for the next wave of passengers i carried on with the plan.

I'd arrived on the small stretch of sand just as you leave the run.

Continuing on i once again i felt nostalgic as i began hiking avon beach. I'd worked in the ice cream parlour on the beach when i was still at school during the weekends and summer holidays. I remembered the rum n raisin and how it was always soft and sticky and also one of the most popular flavours. I remembered having to clean the bosses landrover and how it often came as a great alternative to serving ice cream.

The beach ahead soon became too dangerous to hike and as it began to darken as the clouds thickened and the dusk drew in. I would now be hiking the cliffs for i while.

Finding a flat place to pitch away from the cliff edge which appeared to be crumbling by the second.

24th July day 505

"Its bloody raining! " where first words that came out of my mouth. It was still early so i decided to calmly get myself ready for a damp hike and make sure i can pack most of my kit away under the dry shelter of my tent.

The rain did eventually lift off just long enough for the tent to dry a little and for me to collapse camp. Leaving my memories behind and heading on into the unknown and back to where it all started the rain began again.

Passing milford on sea i realised that I'd left dorset and had now entered Hampshire for the last time. It was still raining.

Following my nose I eventually arrived at Lymington passing hurst castle a place I'd used as training

After Lymington it got  tougher to follow the coast as there didn't appear to be any path

Eventually i stumbled on to the solent way

It was still raining and everything was soaked

Feeling sure i was now heading back towards the coast and finding a sheltered place in some woods i pitched up and called it  a day

I hadn't got as far as I'd hoped

25th July day 506

It had stopped raining my boots and socks were wringing wet

The sun was out and i knew i had a long day ahead of me. I wanted to get as close to Southampton as possible so that my last day would be short and easy

As i set off i could feel something was wrong.  The sun was in the wrong place either that or i was headed in the wrong direction.

I stopped and thought for a moment, i was heading in the wrong direction.

Turned about eventually finding a road i decided to follow it til i found a sign

Followed signs for bucklers hard i knew of the place and knew it would take me to the water

Reaching bucklers hard and reaching the water i turned left for Hythe

Passed Hythe a could see the bridge where it all began

The weather was perfect for a crossing

Finding a nice sandy beach i launched and paddled to a slipway just across from me

I had to watch out for large cruise ships and speed boats

I had arrived in Southampton a day earlier than expected

Decided to relax for the rest of the day

Pitched up in mayflower park

26th July day 507

Met everyone around 10:30

Joanne and her mum where late

Hiked along the road towards the bridge

It was just as long as I'd remembered

Arriving at the center of the bridge the line looked different

13th - 15th July (nf)

13th July day 494

That morning i climbed off the sofa and gathered my kit together, my tent was mostly dry now. I took out the broken spray deck brace to examine it more closely. There had to be a way of fixing it a few thoughts entered my head. A bolt wedged between the two then duct taped seemed the most feasible fix. I made myself breakfast and waited for chris the mechanic to arrive.

Handing the brace over i gave chris the brace suggesting my possible fix. He took the brace away and disappeared into his workshop while I finished getting my kit stowed and ready to set off. When chris returned he was holding the brace at both ends. He hadn't found a bolt to use but a drill bit did just as good a job. After inserting the bit chris had used resin to secure the two halves together. I'd have to wait another half hour for the resin to set before setting off on the trek once more.

I didn't know it at the time but i had a pleasant surprise ahead of me. Chris and i left the boathouse together and we headed down to the pontoon where i was planning to launch hoolley for her morning crossing. When we arrived there i was introduced to stevie smith.

Stevie smith was part of a two man crew who wanted to circumnavigate the world under their own power. Stevie made it to hawai but his friend continued on to complete the challenge. It was anticipated the journey would take three years but in fact took 13. Stevies idea had been one of the inpirations for me to look into using a pack raft to aid my attempt around Britain and it was an honour to accept his offer of a lift on his ferry to cross the river.

I was soon back following the acorns and of course following the coastal path. The trail wasn't too challenging and I began to think that maybe now i was over the worst of it. My sun burnt stomach though was itching like crazy, especially my chest. It was driving me crazy. So much so that i decided to stop, i threw my pack to the ground and removed my tshirt. Somehow i thought that allowing the cool breeze brush across my bare reddened skin would help. It did to a degree but still i itched. I put my pack back on and continued to follow the path.

It wasn't exactly a hot day but i still sweated with every step i took. The trail wound its way along the coastline following the cliffs as closely as it dare. Ahead I'd soon be passing start point. It wasn't my start point although as i got closer i began wishing it had been.  I still had a few hundred miles yet to cover before I'd arrive back at my start point.

Start point is a headland that houses a solitary lighthouse, no longer manned, none of them were these days. Automation had once again added another soul to the dole queues. Lighthouses were now often rented to the wealthy for holiday homes or had been turned into remote hotels with spectacular views.

Wild strawberries couple looked at me oddly

Torcross lake one side of a long sand bank and the sea on the other side.

The stretch of sand was used during the war to practice the D day landings.

Arriving at the top of the hill at Strete i was convinced it would all be downhill to Blackpool, a slightly smaller Blackpool than I'd previously visited. Gradually the path did descend and i was able to see the gorgeous beach i would call home ahead. Turning slightly to run parallel to the coast below the path appeared to disappear.

I stopped and burst out laughing "you've got to be Fucking kidding me! " a shout out above me laughter. Ahead the path plummeted out of sight and before me on the far side of the valley a very steep climb back to the top. My laughter turned to chuckles as i began the descent to the valley floor. The gradient got steeper and steeper then the ground slipped from beneath me, or had my boots lost the will and simply let go, either way i ended up on my backside. Again i screamed with laughter. I was near breaking point, physically and mentally. Bursting into song joining in with the song that was playing on my mp3 player, although i expect slightly out of tune. Somehow it seemed the natural thing to do, "Way Up high or down low, I'll go wherever you will go".

Once at the bottom i began the climb back up. I'd obviously not climbed enough everests yet.

Blackpool sands turned out to be a private beach which meant no camping. I had no choice but to keep going til i found somewhere quiet and secluded to make camp.

The evening meal was to be golden vegetable rice with chopped peperami I'd been given by a family I'd met hiking the coastal path earlier during the day.

14th July day 495

Drawing back the doorway to my little home and peering out the sun was shining and it looked though it might be a good day for walking. I was heading for Dartmouth for hoolleys next crossing and i hoped to get near to Torquay by nightfall.

Met Dartmouth rnli volunteers at newly opened shop

Crossed the dart via ferry due to poor weather and high traffic it was only £1.50

Met up with merlin and alison. I'd met merlins dad on my first day of hiking round Anglesey but he'd never mentioned it to merlin.

Had dinner and drank drams of whiskey from jura and isla.

15th July day 496

Feeling mortal i woke around 9:30. It may have been later. I joined merlin out front for breakfast and some much needed coffee.

Rain in the morning

A hard 10 miles

Sun came out as i approached Brixham

Got lost in woods in the dark

Camped martincoombe