27th April day 417

Waking up to the dawn chorus of the nearby sheep i was pleasantly surprised when I poked my head from beneath the flysheet to see relatively clear skies. I'd been expecting poor weather again but was hoping that it would stay clear at least during my ascent of the mountain waiting for me on my door step.

Leaving camp i set off towards a track tthat ran along the base of the mountain towards a steep track which was once the entrance to the quarry situated about half way up. It was going to be a tough and gradual start to my day. Slowly making my way up the views behind me over looking Trefor and the coastline I'd spent the previous couple of days hiking were spectacular.

The old quarry hadn't been used for many years and the derelict buildings built into the rocks were not only impressive in size but also eerily quite. From below it looked like an enormous fortress. It was in fact where the stone was crushed and loaded into carts and eventually lorries ready to be shipped to Liverpool for export.

The track now began to zig zag the remainder of the way to the summit. The weather appeared to be holding out and with a slight breeze and fairly clear skies it seemed the weather reports had been wrong. Finally reaching the top i began the long but easy hike back down the far side. It was considerably cooler at the top and making my way down the wind increased, it was fresh to say the least.

As i made my way along the track from the top i looked downbto my right and wondered if i could have taken a more direct if not more exciting route back down.  I was uncertain at first but as i descended and had a better clearer view i could just make out a faint track that potentially would have been safe enough although extremely steep. I wasn't going back though to find out as i was halfway down already and heading towards where i thought would have been a nice walk if it hadn't been for mass deforestation.

Now at a lower altitude the air begun to warm, i still had a fair hike ahead of me before i would reach the coast again so i downed my pack and took a break. Whilst sat at the side of the road taking in the incredible change of scenery, it was like I'd passed through a wardrobe and stepped into a fictional fantasy land, an elderly gentleman was walking up the hill towards me.

We greeted each other and began to  chat. The gentleman was a local who as it transpires had lived in the area all his life and regularly went down the hill to the coast from his village a bit further up from where we met. He'd seen massive changes in his lifetime and recalled life around the quarry and how it impacted his childhood.

The forest that was being torn down around us had only been planted sone 60 years earlier. In his youth the gentleman recalled the landscape being very different, there were no trees just rock, heather and grass. The quarry was also running and as a child he often went down to the village below to play with the children, riding the empty quarry carts up the mountain with no health and safety to stop them.

During the war the area had also been mined to prevent the Germans from landing tanks there. These had long been removed and the area was now safe to enjoy. We continued to chat and stories of his youth recalled how he used to take a ride with the local postman down the old cart track to the bottom where he was often handed the key to the postbox, for him it was a privilege even though quite often there would be maybe only one letter to be delivered.

The gentleman's father was also a special constable during the war, it was a way of avoiding conscription and being sent away to the front line. One old war story he told me was of a fisherman who lived up on the hill in solitude. The villagers hardly saw him, one day his dad was called to a fire at the fishermans cottage which had burnt down to the ground. Whilst inspecting the remains he came across the bones of three dogs but no human remains. Locals had spoke if a red flashing light in the sea the same night and speculation began to flourish as to whether or not the fisherman had in fact been a german spy and if the red flashing light was in fact a beacon on a u boat to guide the spy to it for extraction.

As we said fairwell it began to briefly sleat and once again the air felt cold. I continued my descent down to what remained of the old quarry village stopping at a cafe near the beach for a hot chocolate. My chosen route would now drop me briefly onto the stony beach below before having to once again make an ascent up into a smaller quarry and up onto the cliffs above.

After passing through several fields i stopped for custard. I was feeling unusually hungry. Re energised i continued on following the signs of the coastal path where i hit the main road. The path headed inland but i continued along the road finding an overgrown foot path leading down  to a beach once more.

The beach was very stony and hard going and swept round to a small headland with a harbour and half a dozen houses and some huts. A set of steps cut into the cliffs took me back up to the top where once again i rejoined the coastal path that would take me passed ty coch inn, the worlds third best pub, I'd  been told. From the pub, which was closed, i carried on following an unusual footpath again cut into the cliffs until u reached the new Porth dinllaen lifeboat station, my destination for the day.

Whilst relaxing in the crew room i was joined by the local womens institute who were there for a tour of the station. Speaking predominantly in welsh, which i found very kool, they very politely translated their banter into English so that i could join in the laughter. I was being made extremely welcome. Once the tour had finished i was taken to the old crew quarters, a house in the village where i could rest up and prepare myself for the following day.

26th April day 416

It was a sunny and calm start to the day which meant a leisurely morning for me. I'd have to wait til low water before I could attempt to cross the Menai straight. Taking my time i made breakfast and enjoyed a couple of mugs of coffee packed up the tent which was now beginning to feel homely. I still wasn't sure exactly how it should be folded but I'dnow settled on a method i was reasonably  happy with.

Having not camped to far away from the water it didn't take me long to reach the shore to see what it was I'd be tackling that morning. The sky was clear, the sun was beaming and the waters calm. The perfect conditions i had been hoping for had blessed me. Dropping my pack to the ground i sat down to study the current and seek out obstacles and obstructions. The notorious Menai straight wasn't exactly living up to my expectations. In fact the crossing I'd made a couple of days earlier at silver bay was more of a challenge. I checked the time and gave the coastguard a quick call to confirm high water. 11:08am came the reply. It was now 10:30am and time to get hoolley unpack and ready. A slight sea breeze aided my efforts filling the inflator bag quickly and effortlessly.

I climbed in and fixed the spray deck down. A speed boat thundered past sending an enormous wake my way. Several words sprang to mind and a few were uttered.

Pushing off i turned into the wake as it continued to roll in and began to paddle, all the time ready to react to whatever situation the straights threw at me. Another speed boat hurtled passed whom received a stern scoured look i can tell you. I was soon halfway across when an under current I'd not expected began to draw me in to exactly where i hoped i would end up, on a slipway on the far side beneath an old fort. All in all i couldn't have asked for a more perfect paddle.

With hoolley packed away i hiked triumphantly along the stony beach gazing back across to the shores of Anglesey. Feeling a little cocky i called out "no island too big, no island too small!". It seemed fitting at the time but on reflection with nobody to hear I'd say completely pointless. This wasn't Europe for example, now that is a big island!

The stony beach stretched on and was getting tougher under foot the further i hiked. I was also feeling unusually hungrier too,  the further i hiked. Coming across a small river i decided to stop and treat myself to a rehydrated chicken korma with rice.

It seemed to take an eternity boiling the water but once revitalised i carried on to conquer the stony nemesis that proceeded ahead of me beyond the horizon and out of sight. Time passed quickly and before too long i found myself near Trefor and staring at a mountain, a roadway zig zagging up and out of sight. I remembered plotting this particular mountain on Google earth while I'd been planning my initial route over a year previous and remembered thinking it was the stuff legends were made of. Its rocky outline against the clear blue sky appeared daunting and ominous. As i got closer it loomed over me.

Reaching Trefor i once again picked up the coastal path which was now to take me up along the cliffs above the calm sea. Beginning the hike around the coastline towards the mountain which i could now clearly see had been cut away to form a quarry i met an elderly gentleman walking his dog. He was a local who'd lived in the village all his life and who walked the hills around everyday. He liked walking and often picked long hiking trips in Scotland. Whilst chatting he advised that i stopped on a flat piece of grass at the bottom of the mountain near to three holiday cottages that were currently vacant. It would be a steep start to the following day but he didn't think I'd make it to the summit that evening especially with the enormous pack i was carrying.

8th April day 398

The sun was shining as i continued my quest to cross the Mersey. I hadn't camped too far from the mersey bridge and it only took me a short time to hike up and locate the footpath across. Once i was on the other side I found myself confused among a labyrinth of roads and streets. With the river barely in sight i set off. At the first opportunity i headed back to the promenade which follows the river banks all the way to new Brighton.

It was a really hot day. A blister I'd treated the day before was rubbing and an ache on my left hip had begun to irritate but i kept going regardless. I hadn't made as good a progress as previous days and the long hikes were beginning to take there toll on my body. My attention to my surroundings had begun to dwindle and my enjoyment foundered. Deciding to take an early day i sought refuge among some dunes which as it turns out were used by dozens of dog walkers. It wasn't an ideal location but it was sufficient for my needs.

6th April day 396

Waking to the sound of a fog horn i knew the mist hadn't lifted and while making breakfast  expected another day hiking into the unknown. What i hadn't expected was to come across a military firing range. Thankfully i hadn't camped on it as I'd done previously. From out if the mist which had thinned out as I'd hiked along the beach i could see the familiar red flag flying and could hear the ringing of gunshots.

Navigated trails between the dunes i avoided being shot and made  my around the range. On the far side the beach was made up mostly of brick rubble, a first on the trek. It was still very misty but gradually rubble cleared to reveal a sandy beach. I then spotted iron men standing, dotted randomly, some buried at different heights, motionless, expressionless, statues in the mist. It was obviously art and in someway a little disturbing. This went on for several miles and lead me into and through  Liverpool. I didn't stop, not because i was worried, not at all, lee was a scouser and i could understand him fine, i didn't feel intimidated either i merely wanted to find a quiet spot to stop the night and clock up as many miles as possible. Finding a small wood in a park beyond the docks i decided to call it a day and rest up for the night.

5th April day 395

It was a misty morning when i woke but with no sign of life coming from lees tent i decided to go back to sleep and gain a few extra moments of rest. I hadn't realised it at the time but lee was doing the same. We eventually both vacated our tents around 11:30. A late start for me.

Unfortunately lee was unable to stop and join me for a walk so after a quick breakfast we said goodbye and agreed to meet up again  somewhere closer to home.

Having received a message from followers of the trek, alex and steph, i hung around at the coastguard station where I'd met the crew fromthe local rescue service the night before. They'd hoped to have met me the day before but I'd already passed before I'd found out and received the message. As alex and steph approached i could see they were carrying a bag which when they arrived they produced two easter eggs and a packet of hot cross buns from. I'd not realised it was that time of year. Things like national holidays just seemed to pass me by these days and time had all but become irrelevant.

I always enjoyed meeting followers of the trek but time was now getting on and i needed to get a few miles clocked up which meant this brief interlude was to be shorter than i really wanted. Carrying my easter eggs i said fair well and headed off along the beach with Southport disappearing fron sight to be replaced with miles of sand dunes. It was difficult to gauge my progress here with very few points of reference and a heavy mist obscuring my views but as the day progressed my muscles began to ache. Nearing Formby i spotted sone woodland and decided to call it a day and made myself camp.

4th April day 394

It was a lovely sunny morning perfect conditions for a crossing. I headed down to the banks of the river and waited for high tide which was around midday. While i waited i turned my phone on to check my messages and see what was happening in the world of Facebook. As soon as i did i received a call from the coastguard.  They'd been contacted about my attempt and were calling to check my location and to ensure i was aware of tides and currents. After a short chat they were satisfied i knew what i was doing and fully capable of making it across the river.

Midday soon came and with hoolley and myself ready we pushed off from the banks and set off. The tide was still coming in which I'd allowed for and was relying on to assist my crossing. Ferry gliding into the flow i made good progress on the calm water towards the fork of the river. Where the bed shallowed out i found myself scraping the sand with my paddles.  It wasn't as deep as I'd hoped so i dug my blade into the sand and essentially poled my self across to the river douglas where i was able to continue my crossing unhindered to the banks on the far side.

Dragging hoolley out onto the grassy banks i was happy with the attempt and gave the coastguard a quick call to let them know all was well and i was safe. The landscape I'd now be hiking across was very reminiscent of the salt marshes I'd hiked at the beginning of the trek. It was almost like i was doing it all again in reverse as i made my way back down the country. Getting a signal on my phone i was surprised to receive a call from lee, my friend from Bournemouth, he was heading up to see me.  It had been over a year since he joined me for a rather long hike and for him a rather long hikr back to the car.

The going was easy and the weather was lovely. Passing a farm i noticed a man approaching the fence, he was trying to gain my attention. Alec had heard my interview on bbc radio Lancashire and was surprised to see someone with an enormous pack hiking passed his farm. Putting two and two together he'd worked out that i was indeed  the adventurer he'd heard. Alec was a fascinating fella and had , in his younger years, cycled from lands end to john o groats on a penny farthing. He loved his old bikes and after I'd been treated to a bowl of soup and a coffee was shown his unique collection of bicycles. He had some amazing examples all in pristine condition. A couple of penny farthings, some traditional push bikes as well as a couple of very unique designs. Being offered the chance to ride one of his prize 1885 penny farthings i simply  couldn't refuse. It was a little nerve racking to say the least. Just getting on was a challenge in its own write but staying on whilst sitting 6' above the concrete was, well something else!

It didn't take me long to reach Southport   Where i was to meet tony a crew member of the local independent rescue services. I was shown round their b class rib and chatted about the types of specialist equipment they used while rescuing people from the sands which were notoriously soft.

That evening lee arrived so we went for pizza before taking a drive around the area looking for somewhere to wild camp. Lee had brought his pop up tent, I'm still not convinced they're particularly good for expeditions but it suited him well whilst glamping.

7th April day 397

Again it was a misty start. I'd not been bothered that night and had in fact had a good nights rest. I kept following the promenade as far as it would take me then followed the roads. This was a far cry from the wilderness and solitude of the highlands.

Around lunchtime,  not that i wore a watch and really knew the time, the sun burst through the mist and cleared up the skies nicely. I decided to stop for a short break and bask in the suns rays soaking up the vitamin D or is it E. It didn't matter, Wales was approaching fast and I'd been making excellent progress.

I passed john lennon airport and continued on. With the mersey bridge in sight i found a  park and judging by the industrial landscape i had been looking at for some hours figured the park would be my best chance at a quiet night.

15th April day 405

Eager to set off and get a good days walking in i got myself up early and on the road as soon as possible. Just as i was leaving les was arriving. I had no doubt in my mind the day was going to be lovely although my pack did for some reason feel light. Maybe it was because I'd taken the day off and given my muscles a rest maybe it was something else.

I was next to tackle the great orme, not really much of a challenge really as there's a road that runs all the way round pretty much as close to the coast as you can get. From the promenade i passed the old pier and began the leisurely hike around. Passing a small cave i noticed a couple of boulderers, chris and alex. I don't mind admitting i was a little jealous and pining for my red chillis. The guys had camped up for two nights to enjoy the fresh air, views and great faces. Heading over for a chat i was offered a coffee so dropped my pack and hooked out my mug and took the weight off my feet.

I  was soon on my way again though and as i followed the road i couldn't stop myself from   looking ahead attemping to plot in my headva possible cliff walk, my desire to walk on the edge being overwhelming. Unfortunately though it just wasn't possible,  the road  was as close as anyone could get. The views were awesome though both fore and aft.

Reaching a cafe at the head of great orme i decided to stop for a quick mocha before heading off in search of a coastal route I'd seen depicted on a tourist map hung on the wall inside. A few yards passed the cafe i came upon a trail and began the descent towards the base of the cliffs. Again i felt privileged to see views those that walked the road wouldn't see.

After a while the trail joined with a tarmac road which i later discovered had formed part of a ww2 military school. There was nothing left which would indicate any real military presence but it was easy to see why the site was chosen.

As i carried on along the tarmac i could see houses ahead, a little out of keeping with the surroundings and quite frankly wouldn't have looked out of place in the costa del sol. Beyond the houses was Llandudno, yep thats right I'd hiked 8 miles to arrive back where I'd started. Looking out and along the coast I found it hard to work out what i was looking at. A mist had dropped down and although i hoped i was looking at Anglesey i had a feeling i wasn't.

Feeling a tad peckish I stopped off at a beach side cafe and treated myself to ham egg n chips. The ham was bloody lovely. I then headed off towards Conwy along the firm sandy shore. I was now approaching an estuary, with every step it emerged from the mist to reveal the banks of the other side.

Sat in a brick shelter looking out across the water and into the grey shroud was a kindly looking fella. He waved to which i returned a greeting. "Fancy a coffee? " he called out. I never refuse anyones kind offer of a cuppa.

Being a people person with an extremely open mind and broad beliefs and opinions  i often find i can talk to anyone about pretty much anything. Subjects tend to range from religion through to the natural world and history. Chris had a troubled face and was seeking guidance, he didn't know what the answer was or what his direction should be. He was a non practicing christian who believed that god had done a pretty good job and that if it had been left to him we'd all still be swimming in primordial soup. As we chatted we philosophied, compared, recalled and discussed. It was a fascinating insight into chris's life and beliefs. We had two more coffees. Before parting company i asked chris "do you think you're asking the right question?", he paused, looked at me and shaking my hand as he stood up said "you're a truly inspiring and enlightening individual". Chris then reached into his pocket and handed me £15, "i was going to use this for my bus fare but instead i think I'll ride my bike". With that he left.

Finishing the last couple of mouthfuls of coffee i gathered myself together and with a smile and a warm fuzzy feeling i set off continuing along the footpath towards Conwy. The weather was beginning to improve as i made my way towards the bridge that crossed the river Conwy. On the opposite bank stood a most impressive castle, English in construction and well looked after by the Welsh.

Conwy rnli station was close by and as i got closer i could see the doors were open which meant somebody was home in fact the shop was also open. After the usual introductions i was invited up to the crew room and introduced to those that were there. The station was under inspection so i seized the opportunity to find out more about what goes on behind the scenes. It  really showed how much pride the volunteers had regarding the organisation and how much effort goes in to ensure each station is kept in tip top condition and the extra efforts the crews put in to ensure they're ready for every eventuality. I felt proud that in some small, very small way i was helping to contribute to helping to save lives and to raise awareness. Naturally i was also treated to a coffee and filled my bottles with water before setting off again.

My plan was to gain as many miles as the remaining light would allow so that i could begin tackling Anglesey the following day. Anglesey was never included in the original plan as I'd intended to only really conquer the mainland but buckling to peer pressure and my insatiable appetite for adventure i decided to make the 128 mile detour and deal with any consequences as they appeared.

A short distance from the boathouse I came upon Britains smallest house. It was at the end of a terrace and I'll be honest narrower than a single bed. How anyone had ever lived in it i will never know. When ever i travel i am always delightfully surprised by unusual and particularly random finds such as this. Unfortunately i wasn't able to go inside but i figured that maybe on my victory lap I'd be able to take a closer look.

Passing through the town i soon found myself hiking round the Conwy marina and venturing down to the beach. The skies were now beginning to clear and the wind had all but died off. As i made my way along i noticed a lady bending over frantically uncovering something in the sand. Curiosity drew me in so i went over. Mary had grown up on Anglesey and often came to the beach looking for objects of interest. The beach hadn't always been a lovely sandy beach but in fact during the victorian era was a marsh or morfa (pronounced morva meaning marsh in welsh). The marsh was often used as a dump during that time and with the sea altering the landscape was now revealing hidden treasures. On this occasion mary had unearthed a codd bottle in perfect condition which had once contained mineral water and that had been produced in Llandudno. What makes this unassuming glass bottle so interesting is its design. Inside was a glass marble and the design and shape of the lid played a huge part of its unique properties. Turning the bottle one way would release the marble allowing the contents to flow and turning it the other way would force the marble to block the top stopping anything from getting out. It was really quite fascinating. In one of marys pockets, which were full of old victorian glass and pottery was a glass marble devoid of glass bottle  that she'd also found. She handed it to me "you can have that" she said.

It is really amazing what interesting  characters you can meet whilst out and about and not necessarily whilst hiking Britain's coastline.

I continued on towards the end of the beach,    a headland that I'm sure at low tide i would have been able to walk round but the tide was coming in and my route blocked. With very little choice i climbed up a sandy bank to join the welsh coastal cycle route and footpath and followed it round the headland. The sun was beginning to set as i made my way round to the other side where i decided I'd stop for the night. Heading back to the beach i stopped to watch the sun set before finding a nice spot above the shore to make camp and rehydrate a packet of sweet n sour chicken with rice.

25th April day 415

I was lucky enough to have packed up before the rain started. Following the estuary i quickly hiked to Aberffraw to cross the bridge where i proceeded to follow the estuary back to the coast to hike the sandy beach and reconnect with the Anglesey coastal path. This was to be my last day on the island so long as the weather didn't worsen and the conditions of the notorious  Menai straight were in my favour.

As i headed up onto the clifftops and continued to follow what resembled a path of sorts, well sheep trail to be more precise it became apparent that i had at some point left the official coastal path and had in fact been making it up as i went. I was however still on the coast and quite frankly thats all that mattered.

After climbing over walls and fences,  passing isolated beaches i eventually saw Newborough nudist beach, well thats what I'd been told not that i was expecting to see any naked bodies cavorting in poor weather. I'd been told the estuary was impassable due to dangerous currents and quick sand so i had no choice but to head inland once again to Malltraeth.

After following the estuary for a while and watching the tide come in i could see ahead I'd soon have no choice but to circumnavigate a rock wall. I made my way up into a field and headed for a dense woodland. Picking up a track i began to follow it spotting a red squirrel darting up a tree, a rare sighting in Britain these days. I hadn't realised it at the time but I'd found myself in the grounds of the Bodorgan estate which is where prince willy and kate had stayed while the prince was stationed at the raf base.

After negotiating the main gates to the estate i followed the main road until I came upon the illusive coastal path once more. I can only assume it must have been routed to bypass the estate. The path now took me back to the estuary and into the village of Malltraeth. This was to be the last village i would pass through before leaving the island of Anglesey and my last opportunity to contact ruth and arrange a meeting to collect the rations joanne had sent for me.

With no mobile signal i looked around for a cafe which i hoped I'd get wifi access. Thankfully spotting a sign to the Riverside cafe i decided to stop for a coffee and attempt to make contact.  Jane was an excellent artist and for many years had taught art from her cottage after a severe accident in which she broke her back she was unable to teach anymore and had decided instead to convert her garage into an arts and crafts cafe selling home made cakes and providing a workshop for visitors to enjoy making craft work and paintings.

It was also the gossip hub of the village and local community. We had a great natter sharing stories and gossip. I was able to contact alison who in return was able to phone ruth who was then able to drive down to me and drop off the familiar box.

Fully loaded with the supplies, fruit and one of janes delicious flap jacks i headed off. It was still a dreary and wet day and i hoped as i walked that the following day would be considerably better.

My plan was to camp on the edge of the forest on the other side of the estuary and wait for the low tide the following day at 11am. I'd missed the high tide and the next low tide wasn't till later that night. The conditions would have to be 100% and i could leave nothing to chance, timing would be critical.

Making my way along the beach following the forest a break in the clouds revealed the sun. It was a great sign. The sand was firm and i was despite carrying a heavy pack making great progress. So much so that when i reached the edge of the forest i decided to continue on to the point where i was hoping to cross with hoolley. It was further than i thought and as night fell i found myself having to use the flashing red beacon on the tip of the point to guide me to the nights camp.

24th April day 414

Having slept reasonably well on one of the benches in the crew room at the boathouse I was eager to make my way to silver bay on the southern tip of holy island. This would be where i was planning to leave holy island to rejoin Anglesey.

Outside the weather was far from the glorious sunny clear blue skies I'd enjoyed the days  previously. A thick heavy mist was shrouding the coast and it looked like it was threatening to rain. I left trearddur bay, a place name i still had trouble pronouncing although I'd managed to learn how to say Llandudno.

With the tide out and the sandy beach if the bay revealed i hiked in a straight line across to come up on a slipway on the far side and joined the coastal path a narrow trail that went around a small headland before ending up back at the road. The morning I'd find myself spending most of my time zig zagging along the coast walking a fair distance to literally end up back on the road. At times it was a little frustrating. The rain was holding back though which i was most definitely pleased about.

I was now beginning to get used to seeing walkers as i progressed seeking out the longest way possible around Britain's coastline and with the terrain becoming more level and less challenging i found i was clocking up the mileage quite quickly and soon arrived at the desolate and isolated beach of silver bay. It was only lunchtime, had i underestimated the distance. Quite frankly it was irrelevant i was there and it was far to early to stop.

I  knew where i wanted to cross the estuary so headed over. The tide was now coming in and the current flowing through the narrow channel was rapid. The wind was also picking up and whistling between the rocks on my side and the sand dunes across from me. Studying the waters i picked out a route and chose my get out. Although i wouldn't have to paddle far i proceeded to select two more exits should something go wrong. To be extra safe i called the guys I'd met at holyhead coastguard to check the tide times and let them know my intentions. A routine I'd recommend to any kayaker.

As i prepared hoolley for the brief crossing i kept my eye on the tide going over the plan in my head. Observing small pockets where submerged rocks caused micro eddies i knew that i was good to go. Pushing off i began to paddle and it wasn't long before I was riding the small wakes that eventually pushed me ashore. It was a perfectly executed paddle and i landed precisely where I'd intended. With hoolley repacked all be it a little sandy i set off along the beach in front of the mod airbase and home to the raf rescue service towards Rhosneigr.

Picking up the coastal path once more on the far side of the town i continued on stopping briefly at an ancient neolithic burial tomb which was in particularly good condition. A  little further along the coast i found myself leaving the coastal path, which strangely headed inland, in favour of a more rugged route towards the derelict remains of some kind of outpost probably second world war or possibly cold war reminisce.

The fences surrounding the installation were broken and rusting and no longer capable of stopping a small child let alone a determined trekker. I didn't stop to explore though I knew the Menai straight now wasn't too far away and I pushed on leaving the remains to end up trackside at the Anglesey racing circuit. I'm not sure if i was supposed to be there but unhindered i made my way round keeping the sea to my right.

It had been a while since I'd had to tackle any tall fences but ahead i was soon stopped in my tracks. It was high but no real competition. Hauling myself over a climbed the fence and descended towards a small bay with an unusually quaint  church built on a small island in the centre. My light was now beginning to fade and at was getting dark and although i wanted to take a closer look i decided to keep going. My toughest challenge now was to find water for breakfast and my evening meal and locate a secluded spot to camp.

I continued on for another couple of miles and thankfully came upon a small running stream with clear water where i was able to fill my bottles. A few more miles later and i found myself approaching Aberffraw. It was nearing 9pm. The days were certainly getting longer but i knew that night would soon fall. Following the estuary back towards the village and away from the sea i spotted a small sheltered enclosure, a secluded spot i could make my home.

21st - 22nd April

21st April day 411

It was a lovely morning, clear blue skies and not a cloud in sight. Being presented with a coffee and bacon sarnie was the perfect way to welcome the start of the day. Instead of continuing my trek from Cemaes bay where I'd left off the night before ruth was to take me to see the head of pr for the rnli to see if i could gain some assistance with helping reach my target.

All in all i believe the quick meeting went well and as I'd suspected the pr team weren't entirely aware that i was walking the coast for them, a serious lack of communication. Hopefully though that had now been rectified. Around 11am ruth came to retrieve me and after stopping off to get a few supplies i was taken back to Cemaes bay to continue the trek.

It was to be a gorgeous day although possibly a little on the warm side. I'm not complaining as I'd rather be too warm than wet and wind swept. The hike to the nuclear power station was extremely pleasant and easy going. It got less pleasurable as I jumped the perimeter fence of the station and made my way to the other side. Unhindered though i eventually picked up the coastal path once more along the way passing a curious sub terrainean room, a little on the small side. A little further on what I'd hazard a guess at was an old water mill.

The coastal path was clearly marked here and easy to follow. Away from the roads and villages i was again left with my own thoughts and curiosities of what lay in store for me the closer to the finish line i would get. At every opportunity i left the coastal path to hike the rocky shores but often found myself having to scramble up slopes and small cliffs to once again rejoin the footpaths.

Occasionally i stopped to admire the views and bask in the sun taking short breaks. Taking the heavy pack off was always welcome a chance to rest my shoulders and ease the pressure off my hips and back.

It didn't take long before i was to start heading along Angleseys west coast and gain my first glimpses of Holyhead mountain, the only mountain on holy island. Before i was to turn though i came upon three unusual tall constructions. I could see them several miles off and as i got closer i was astounded at how big they were. They stood towering over the landscape a little way down from the ruins of an old abbey. Out to sea i could see a couple of islands and the famous Skerrie lighthouse. The irish sea was charging from the north and the sea looked like it was a giant boiling pot. Notoriously dangerous. I wondered if the towers had been built as some kind of markers for sea farers. I didn't actually know but it seemed reasonable. Getting closer to the third structure i realised that it had nothing to do with the others. It was in fact a chimney, possibly a lime kiln.

The nuclear power station was now well out of sight and sat in a haze on the horizon i could see holy island. Gradually as i made my way south along Angleseys west coast the island became larger and closer. The terrain was still rugged and interesting but as i progressed the landscape began to level and the sun began to set. Crossing sandy beach the sky turned orange and eventually purple before night fell.

22nd April day 412

Once again it was a lovely sunny morning i packed up and emerged from my little hiding place only to discover that I'd lost the coastal path. Following a nearby road it wasn't long before I came upon the coastline once more. Heading down to the beach. The tide was out making for easy walking.

Approaching valley i hiked across the bay which was only a couple of inches deep saving me from having to hike a good four miles around. I'll be honest, with the good weather and the non challenging landscape i was beginning to feel like I was having a little time out from the trek. I was essentially merely going for a relaxing walk.

Crossing onto  holy island and seeing a sign for a burger van in the nature reserves car park i began to feel cravings for a delicious cheese burger. I  headed over to satisfy my cravings.

Blue was washing down the floor of his burger van when i stepped up, it nearly gave him a heart attack. "Are you adam?" He enquired. It took me quite by surprise. Blue had been following my progress through Facebook. Handing over a bacon and cheese burger and a coffee he told me  to find a place to hunker down while he finished up.

Dropping my pack and finding a small rock i tucked in to my burger. I didn't really want it to end it was exactly what I'd been salivating over since I'd seen the board up by the bridge. Blue soon popped out from the van for a chat. I was soon on my way again and as i hiked through the nature reserve i kept thinking about the delicious burger I'd enjoyed and the amazing views over the bay.

It didn't take long before i passed the old aluminium works, I'd seen the chimney stack the day before towering over the island. Ahead of me was holyhead. After negotiating the port i followed the sea front to the holyhead coastguard operations centre who are responsible for overseeing 900 miles of the coast I'd either already tackled or had yet to experience. I had to pop in and say hi and introduce myself especially seeing as I'd spoken to them on several occasions when crossing dangerous rivers and estuaries.  It was not only a great opportunity for me to put faces to the voices but also for me to see the operations centre and glean some local knowledge about the menai straight, the stretch of water that separates Anglesey from Wales.

Just along from the coastguards was the holyhead lifeboat station. The boat was moored up off a pontoon a fair way from the boathouse to make it easier to launch in an emergency. There was a good crowd present all enjoying the sun. It was mid afternoon when i arrived and i was planning on heading round holyhead mountain but a room had been arranged at a nearby hotel so i called it a day and decided to relax.

20th April day 410

Having camped in the back garden of a vacant and derelict house over looking the harbour at Amlwch i was pleased when i climbed from the tent to be greeted by a gorgeous sunny morning. Having packed up i set off to follow the coastal path again a ritual I'd expected to be following for the next few days.

It wasn't quite Scotland, a landscape i had fallen in love with but the views along the coast were stunning enhanced by the early summer light and cool breeze.

I  was thoroughly enjoying the walk which although not that challenging was full of surprises. Coming across a pod  of dolphins  gracefully gliding through the calm waters was one instance i had to stop. Another was coming across an old factory ruins where i would imagine they once manufactured bricks. The factory or what was left was located in a bay surrounded by cliffs and although I fancied taking a closer look could see no way other than abseiling in or taking a boat across. It would have to go on my list of places to revisit.

A little further along I came across another ruin again i would guess that it was an old and i mean really old brick making factory or maybe a lime kiln. Reaching Cemaes i headed towards the harbour where i was to meet ruth and her husband Alan. They'd offered there assistance and a summer house to kip in which was awesome as i needed to get to holy island for the Tuesday morning to speak to the head of pr for the rnli about giving more assistance with promoting the challenge to help me raise the funds i was aiming for. So far I'd only managed to raise  a little over 1% of my target and it was a little disappointing.

19th April day 409

When i woke the wind was blowing quite strongly but whilst having breakfast it began to die down and i could feel the heat of the sun against the flysheet. Once I'd packed away i headed over to the boathouse to say goodbye to mike and collect my backup battery which I'd left charging over night.

Leaving the station i followed the coastal  path along the cliffs passed the tragic site of royal charter wreckage where supposedly  gold which had been aboard and never recovered remained.  The rest of my day was spent following the footpath with the scenery improving as the day progressed. My pack was heavy after being restocked with the weekly supplies joanne had sent for me to collect.

18th April day 408

With clear blue skies i felt that summer had finally arrived. Taking it at a leisurely pace to fully enjoy the morning i slowly gathered myself together before setting off. I knew the day ahead would be hard but i was hoping it wouldn't be as exciting as the day before.

Leaving camp i crossed a couple of fields before spotting a possible passage through a thickly growing and densly packed band of shrubs. I wasn't sure if the trail would lead anywhere but if i didn't try I'd never know.

The trail had been heavily used by cattle and wound between the thickets so i felt sure it would take me somewhere. It certainly did, it took me to a dead end. With the option to either turn about or battle on i chose the latter.

After dragging my pack which was getting caught up on branches i found myself at the bottom of a small rocky wall. I could see a fence above me. The climb was simple but made incredibly difficult with my pack still getting hooked up. Pulling myself up using brute force i was able to free my pack and scramble up to the fence. It was barbed wire and not particularly stable. I did manage to climb over though without incident.

I was now looking ahead planning a route that would take me from one field to the next, preferably by using gates and not having to climb any fences. Entering into one field i was soon surrounded by some over friendly cows. It was a little disconcerting but i kept my kool knowing that if i panicked I'd most certainly startle the cattle and that wouldn't be good. Slowly and gradually i made my way across the field. I was being herded away from the gate i was heading for but seeing a gap in the hedge row and a lane beyond i decided to change my plans and make for safety by climbing over the fence and away from the cattle.

Safely on the other side of the fence i said goodbye to the four legged beef burgers and began to follow the lane. I knew it had to lead somewhere and no matter where i ended up i knew it was better than being in the field.

I didn't need to hike far before the lane met the Anglesey coastal path and i met a group of friends out on a days hike. Two of the group had spent the week walking anti clockwise around the island and they were now on their last leg. It was lovely having a bit of company as i walked and reliving my adventures through story. The path took us down from the hills to the shore, red wharf bay, a long stony beach followed by a small marsh and eventually a lovely sandy bay.

The Friends and i parted at the next pub and i continued along the beach to Benllech where i picked up the coastal path once again. Crossing in front of the cliffs simply wasn't safe enough but i was content with the views from above and made good progress to Moelfre.

Reaching Moelfre i proceeded to the lifeboat station, the newest in the institution and as yet not officially open. When I arrived i was met by Micheal a long serving crew member and second coxswain whos family had a long history with the rnli. Michaels uncle is somewhat of a celebrity in the circles and had been the first non celebrity to appear on this is your life.

17th April day 407

It was a bright sunny start to the day. I'd massively over slept and being so comfortable in the bed really didn't want to get up. I had to though. After breakfast I checked my kit over before heading over to the boathouse to meet frankie and john.

As i was about to wish the guys fair well there was a flurry of activity, cars were turning up at the station and crew were darting into the changing rooms to get ready. There had beena radio call made to the coastguard, the report of a yacht sinking a little way down the coast near Penmon. It only took a few minutes for the boat to get launched with a four man crew on board.

Thankfully this shout was a false alarm. Identifying the sinking yacht as the Hoveringham II, a sand dredger that sunk in 1971. back then the blue peter II was in service, a boat i personally remember the bbc childrens program blue peter had sponsored through donations from the public.

With all the excitement tempered i grabbed my kit and headed along the shore anticlockwise around Anglesey. I hiked the stony shore as far as possible before being forced inland a short way due to the damned trespass laws. This did however give me the opportunity to explore Penmon priory, dovecot and st seiriols well all dating back to the 6th century.

Desperate to regain access to the coast i followed the road for about a mile up to Penmon coastguard lookout where i was able to make it back to the shore opposite puffin island. Before I did though i called in to the Pilot house cafe nearby. Sat enjoying a large coffee and a slice of chocolate cake i  began chatting to a local and a couple of american tourists. Explaining what i was doing one of the tourists commented "you're just like...", i was waiting for it, "...an old American explorer discovering the wild west", i didn't expect that!

Before leaving the cafe i was given a slice of lemon cake and a coffee after chatting with its owner who knew what it was like to travel after she'd backpacked Australia with her husband and two toddlers. No mean feat.

From the cafe i headed down towards the beach opposite the old lighthouse where i came upon an enormous painting depicting the scene in front. After pausing to reflect i continued onto the beach and began to clamber over the rocks passing through a natural archway to see how far round the headland i would be able to get. Finding myself cutoff by the  perimeter fence of an old quarry i had to turn back to see if i could find an alternative route back to the coast.

The terrain was becoming more rocky now with cliffs bordering the coast. Stopping to check the satellite images i spotted a track that would circumnavigate the quarry but on closer investigation i discovered the track had now been taken over by thickly growing brambles and thorny bushes. It would have to be a case of following a gravel track that led to the quarry until I found a way to cross some fields.

I did eventually, and quite quickly,  find a gate indicating some kind of footpath although i wasn't to stay on the path very long.  A matter of seconds in fact. With the coast in sight i made a b line across the field and picked up a sheep trail which ran along the edge of the cliffs.

It was tough going un places and i did have to climb fences on my way finding myself in a wooded valley for a short time before continuing to attack Angleseys coast. After several miles I eventually found myself on a tarmac road. Walking towards me a young man and his cousin carrying fishing gear. I didn't get their names but it turned out the young man was a squaddie serving at Marchwood the military base I'd done a quick induction to the TA many years before and also the place that would be my final crossing in hoolley on the trek.

Finding out what i was doing and having good local knowledge he told me if a route that would get me down to the rocks on the coastline although he did warn me it was treacherous. A gopro moment.

Following the road i came upon the car park he'd described and followed the steps down to a wide grass covered ledge. I was told to follow the trail to the end where I'd find some boulders and where it would appear the trail end. Climbing up the boulders i was told would reveal a faint trail that would take me on to a rocky ledge cut into the cliffs. It would be wet and slippery but i would if i was careful be able to get along it.

Sure enough i found the ledge and made my way along, there was a fair drop to the right but the ledge was plenty wide enough to walk along safely. It did however abruptly end and i was unable to get any further. Looking ahead though i felt sure that if i could get down I'd be able to continue by walking over the rocky plateaus below. Using the rope I'd been carrying since Kessock lifeboat station i lowered my pack down to a ledge and climbed down myself. I  knew this would probably be a one way passage. Climbing down onto another large boulder and ultimately onto the plateaux i looked back up to see if i could spot an exit strategy should i need one. I couldn't see any easy way out but felt sure that if needs must i would be able to come up with something.

So there i was back at the coast, another section probably never hiked as such. As i made my way along it became apparent there was a reason why. With high cliffs to my left, the sea to my right and a sheer vertical cliff ahead only the truly adventurous would even attempt it. I was literally boxed in with no way to escape. Had i made a grave error, was this a mistake.

I carried on towards the cliff in hope that a way out would present itself. It wasn't looking good. I knew I could alway resort to paddling hoolley out and risking an open water escape. Then i spotted an old weathered climbing rope fixed to the cliff face at two points. I went closer to examine the rope.

Giving it a good tug it seemed fairly solid, knots spaced a metre apart would allow me to take a good grip but there were very few places to place my feet. It was a huge risk. I had to think long and hard as one false move could potentially end the challenge there and then.

Without knowing what I'd find around the outcrop if i decided to paddle i presumed that who ever had left the rope had walked to the location from somewhere. Having the weight of my pack would be a problem but it was going to have to be a risk worth taking and although I'd used my rope to lower my pack down it wouldn't be long enough to pull the pack up after me.

I tugged again. Placing one foot on a small hold i began the climb. Hand over hand, foot over foot scrabbling to get grip i gradually hauled myself laden with the backpack up the cliff face. About 6' from the top the rope traversed the face to a second fixing. This was a big unknown.  Inspecting the state of the weather worn rope did not fill me full of confidence.  I was now committed though and for me the only way forward was up and across.

Slowly but surely i reached the end of the rope. Reaching up on to the grassy summit i found one hand hold, then a second. Leaning forward i pulled myself up. I'd made it. My heart was pounding the adrenaline flooding my veins. Taking a deep breath i sat back to catch my breath and take in the views basking in my own glory.

The sun would soon be setting so i turned my attention to finding somewhere to camp up. Hiking up off the clifftops i headed for a small woods and found a nice clearing to settle into. Dinner that night, chickenand noodles in a black bean sauce, had never tasted so good.

23rd April day 413

I'd slept well and was eager to get going. Following breakfast i headed over to the boathouse to say goodbye and to get a photo and take a look aboard the Severn class lifeboat stationed there. When i arrived brian, the coxswain was hoovering and getting the station ready for a school visit so i got us a coffee and waited for the chief mechanic ian to arrive.

Comparing the Severn to the tamar class lifeboat it was immediately apparent they were from different eras. The tamar I'd been shown around at the Barrow station was very high tech and looked like something from a scifi movie, this boat was more traditional in its appearance with banks of lights and switches. Its like comparing the enterprise from star trek with captain james t kirk with jean luc piccards sleak starship in the next generation.

Before leaving holyhead brian offered to arran for my pack to be taken on to the  trearddur lifeboat station a mere 3 miles away by road while i headed of around the coast which was about three times further.

With excellent weather and no pack my hike would be easy, an enjoyable stroll away from the boathouse around the mountain and back down to trearddur bay. A short way from the station i passed a few derelict buildings which unfortunately i was unable to gain access to. The buildings were built to house the construction workers of the breakwater in holyhead. The breakwater is the longest in Britain stretching an impressive mile and a quarter out to sea.

Reaching the holyhead mountain, which to be honest isn't really much of a mountain and only 700' high i began to follow the maze of trails left by walkers and climbers who regularly visited the landmark. It was very easy going and with the cliffs plummeting beneath me i was as close to the coast as i could possibly wish.

Coming down from the mountain i could see trearddur bay ahead. Again it was a simple case of following the coastal path around the cliffs. Out to sea i could see the raf rescue helicopter performing routine training exercises and as I'd hiked a little further was lucky enough to be in the right cove as they decided to head in and perform a short excercise on the rocks. Watching the team so close was fascinating and an experience i will never forget.

After watching the expertise of the pilot and crew i set off feeling quite chirpy and soon arrived at the trearddur lifeboat station where the crew had arrived for their weekly training. An actor from coronation street who'd been made an honoury crew member was also present, purely by chance. I'll be honest i don't watch soap operas and really had no idea who he was.

3rd April day 393

It was around 8:30 when i woke feeling rather refreshed. First call of the day was to go to the toilet and brush my teeth. As i headed down to the crew changing room. As i reached the door i heard the station alarm going, burglar alarm. Unbeknownst to me cleaners had been in that morning to clean the shop but no one had let them know i had stayed the night so when they'd  left they'd  set the alarm. Immediately i called someone fromthe crew to try to get the code so i could reset the alarm myself. Unfortunately there was no answer.

With very little else i could do i decided to continue to the changing rooms, empty my bladder and have a wash. I then returned to the main door to await the arrival of the police. Literally as i opened the door i was greeted by kyle, one of the crew, who was able to cancel the alarm. A few minutes later a police car followed by a police van, blue lights flashing, arrived on scene. How was i to explain what had happened. I  just had to come out with it and admit to the officers I'd accidentally tripped the alarm when I'd gone for a wee. It wasn't long before 4 more crew arrived, they'd either been contacted by the police or had been passing by and had seen the commotion outside the station. It was quite an event.

With the Police satisfied kyle and i headed back into the station so i could pack up ready for the days hike. While i crammed my kit away kyle went off to get us breakfast, egg mc muffin with bacon from Mcdonalds.

The morning had started bright and clear but as i left Blackpool boathouse a mist enveloped the town. I set off following the promenade passing the pepsi max big one, a huge roller coaster I've wanted to ride for many years now. Today was not going to be the day i would scratch that off my bucket list. I had milage to clock up and wasn't able to justify a brief stop to indulge.

Further along the promenade i came across the worlds largest glitter ball. During the planning of the trek I'd spotted the unusual feature and had strangely been looking forward to seeing it. Its this type of  unusual tourist attraction that enjoy hunting out such as the big pineapple, banana and prawn  in Australia. I must admit it was pretty enormous although smaller than i had imagined.  The heavy mist was blocking out the sun so the ball wasn't exactly glittering either.

Carrying on i headed to the end of the pier and down to the beach were i passed a small group of africans chanting on the shore in their traditional native dress. It was really quite unexpected.  Again random sights feed my desire for discovery. Stopping only briefly to watch the spectacle i headed off into thr mist which appeared to be getting thicker. Keeping the sand dunes in sight as my point of reference, unable to see the sea or anything ahead of me.

Chris jefferies had been following my progress online since I'd passed through kent. We'd been planning to meet up at some point as i passed through and were hoping I'd be able to meet with his explorer scout group at the same time. Unfortunately the timing was quite frankly rubbish and meeting the explorers was simply not going to happen. You could compare it to trying to thread a needle with your eyes closed wearing a  pair of mittens. Chris was able to meet me though and appeared from the mist looking like somebody who'd lost something. He was in fact searching for me.

Its not often i have anyone actually joining me for a hike and the company was welcome. What was even more welcome was the king size carvery i was later to be treated to and before we parted company chris handed me a scout neckerchief and unofficially made me an honoury explorer scout.

From the carvery i headed off along the  sea front towards the aerodrome and a section of the river ribble where i had planned to make a crossing in hoolley. The river douglas joined the ribble at this point and seemed ideal as the crossing wasn't far and the marshes quite narrow on both sides. As i scouted the area i decided to postpone the crossing till the following day as the tide was out when I'd arrived and the muddy banks looked treacherous and potentially too soft to walk on.

That evening i Recieved a text from tony at the Southport independent  lifeboat station advising not to cross as he considered it too dangerous. I ignored the advice because i was on location and could see the potential hazards where as he was merely guessing at my location and choice of crossing.

16th April day 406

Traffic had been running along the nearby express way all night and as morning broke the traffic increased. Waking around 8am i knew i had a very long hike ahead of me and the challenge of staying on the coastline would be difficult. Breakfast was to consist of a chocolate muffin and a coffee.

The days hike was to be a simple hike mostly following the coastal path as there were very few places where I'd be able to get down to the coastline. As the day progressed the weather improved as did the views. Noticeably the air quality also got better. I began to wonder if the troubles I'd been experiencing with my breathing were in fact related to pollution.

Moving away from the noise and fumes of the road i was able to pick up the tranquility of the coast. Once again i was back where i felt comfortable. Have i changed since i started hiking 13 months ago. I am really beginning to think so. I was heading towards Bangor and hoping to reach Beaumaris on the isle of Anglesey by evening. The sun was scorching with a lovely light breeze and after having a great month and covering a huge distance my moral was most definitely high.

Seeing the spectacular medieval castle at Bangor ahead of me i knew that once again i had made excellent progress and the city wasn't too far away. The air was smelling cleaner here and each breath filled my lungs. The scenery was improving too, lush green woodlands with a backdrop of small mountains forming valleys. The castle was gradually getting larger the closer i got but being cut off by a narrow river its banks made of soft mud meant a crossing in hoolley would not be possible. I'd have to find another way round. Heading along the river i was confronted by a high stone wall. I could see a bridge though and knew that i would have to somehow get to it. I  only had one choice, to scale it and make my way there. Finding a reasonable place to climb i put my climbing skills in to action. When i first set off the previous year a climb such as this would have proved difficult especially with the weight of my pack but now i found it simple. Within seconds i was sat on top of the 8 foot wall staring down into what appeared to be someones garden. Removing the pack i dropped it down and followed myself. There was noone around and i figured that as long as i moved stealth like i wouldn't disturd anyone or bring attention to my presence.

Making my way across the garden i hopped over its fence and onto a track that led me to the bridge across the river and into the grounds of the castle. It would have been lovely to have had time to do a bit of sight seeing but unfortunately I was on a challenge to tackle the coast and not to be a tourist. Leaving the castle behind me i left the grounds following a road down towards bangor.

I was now back to the concrete, tarmac and hustle of civilisation. Picking up the coastal path again i made quick progress of bangor and headed towards the Menai Bridge, an old suspension bridge with alot of character. Leaving the mainland i crossed the Menai straight, Britain's second most dangerous stretch of water, to the isle of Anglesey.

Turning right off the bridge i followed the coastal path again which essentially followed the coastal road. After a couple of  miles i came across a slope leading down to the shore line. I began to make my way down just as another walker headed up. Mark was a local who enjoyed strolling along the shores between Menai Bridge and Beaumaris. As we passed each other mark commented how he'd never seen any walkers heading towards the shoreline on the way to Beaumaris. We continued to chat about the trek and what i should expect whilst making my way round Anglesey. Before going our seperate ways mark complimented me in quite an unusual way. "I've never met anyone as interesting as you before" i wasn't really sure how to react so i simply smiled and wished him the best.

Heading off along the shore, conscious that the tide was now coming in and that the high tide mark was above me, i found myself briefly distracted by a small opening in the rock face. On closer inspection i found a cave entrance.  It was most definitely man made. Entering in i followed the short tunnel til it forked. I explored the right tunnel first then went back to explore the left which went back into the rock much further. Smugglers had dug caves such as these to store salt smuggled in from Ireland.

I continued to follow the shore east towards Beaumaris, my legs were now beginning to hurt but i knew the village would only be a couple of miles further. Reaching the point i saw the b class rib hurtling out and along the straights. I was getting closer.  Sure enough hiking round the point i could see the flag flying above the boathouse.

As i headed across the Beaumaris bay towards the boathouse I  met will. Will although not an rnli crew member had been expecting me. It was an unexpected greeting. Reaching the boathouse I was again greeted by the crew who had been left  at the station during the exercise and given a coffee.

Once the crew returned it was all hands on deck to secure the rib onto its trailer before posing for a photo. Looking around i began to choose somewhere to camp but the crew had a surprise in store for me. They'd arranged a room for me at a local hotel just across from the boathouse.

14th April day 404

Still feeling a little under the weather i had quite a restless nights rest. Waking up around 7:30am the muscles in my legs were seized solid. It was becoming apparent that a break was not only in order but required. Les was already at the station cleaning the tractor. The night before he'd mentioned alex had stopped a couple of nights so i asked if it would be possible to stop another night.

Looking forward to taking it easy and letting my body recover i set off in to town to visit barnacles, paul O'briens girlfriends mothers cafe for a complimentary breakfast. Full English, i guess because they don't do a full welsh.

Fully fed and content i decided to do something unthinkable, sight seeing. To be precise searching for a sculpture of alice. Llandudno as i discovered is where Alice  Liddell whom inspired the children's classic Alice's Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll spent her summers. A tenuous link admittedly.

After my short excursion i returned to the station to get back to catching up with my blogs and edit another video. While sat in the peace and quiet of the station there was a flurry of activity. A shout had cone in. A man walking his dog on the beach was stranded on a sand bank, caught out by the fast tides. Thankfully after being out for 10 minutes the team were stood down. The gentleman was able to swim with the dog back to shore. It was interesting to see the wheels of the team working in unison. A great insight.

2nd April day 392

It was a lovely sunny day as i cooked breakfast for joy and Eileen, bacon, eggs and toast. It was good to be back in a kitchen again even for such a simple meal. After breakfast joy and Eileen kindly dropped me back near the bar we'd met and i set off on what was to be probably my longest hike of the trek to date.

With my pack on my back i set off to follow  the river to Glasson, it was a lovely day and an easy hike away from the city. Once beyond the concrete jungle and back to the solitude of my journey i made quick progress following the sea defences to glasson and then round to pilling.

I was really beginning to feel like i was back in England and for some reason felt restricted. Unable to simply follow my nose i had to make sure i wouldn't be trespassing or infringing on anyones privacy. It felt uncomfortable.

It wasn't long before i would reach an estuary that i had been warned was particularly dangerous with fast currents, not that i was ever really phased. Before i went to make the crossing though i stopped at knott end cafe to meet with paul moon a local councillor who ordered me a slice of the  cafes legendary mirange pie and a coffee.

It was a brief stop but also a welcome one taking a moment to rest my legs and take the weight off my shoulders. I was soon back to focusing on the task at hand. I headed down to the slipway where the ferry crosses from knott to Fleetwood. The tide was almost entirely out, my timing had been perfect. Before unpacking hoolley i studied the estuary and watched the flow, it was running quickly in a narrow channel but absolutely nothing to worry about.

With hoolley set I began my crossing heading up stream to begin and then allowing the current to bring me up on the sandy shore just down from the lifeboat station. Absolutely no problem and free from incident.

Looking at my watch I'd covered a days hike before 4:30. I'd  intended to stop at Fleetwood but chatting with the guys it turned out Blackpool was a mere 10 more miles and that it was an easy hike. I estimated I'd probably make it by 8:30 / 9pm at the latest.

Before setting off the guys at Fleetwood station gave hoolley a good wash down with hot water and soap. Bless them and I'm sure hoolley enjoyed it to.

Sinking a coffee i left the guys at Fleetwood i began the hike to Blackpool. Leaving the promenade i headed to the firm sandy shore and lost in my thoughts began to hike. After several miles i began to notice constructionwork ahead. As i got closer i could see that work  had begun on repairing the promenade and sea defences.

With large boulders piled along the  beach, warning signs and having to keep an eye out for heavy plant machinery i began to wonder how safe i was. I continued on though with extra vigilance. After about an hour i saw a land rover  heading my way.  I knew it was for me. As it approached it slowed and pulled up alongside the window wound down. Sure enough the safety crew had been sent over to escort me to the promenade for my safety.

Thankfully they allowed me to hike off the beach myself and up on the prom i continued towards Blackpool. A few miles later i could see the famous Blackpool tower and the first of its three piers. Even though my legs and shoulders were killing me i kept  going. For a while it seemed that no matter how many miles i hiked the pier simply didn't get any closer.

It was around 8:30 when i finally saw the lights of the boathouse ahead. A feeling of elation filled me.

31st March - 1st April

31st March day 390

The trek had now deviated massively from how I'd expected it would go. Waking up once again indoors i began to reflect on the past years progress and the kindness of those I'd met along the way. When i left  Southampton i was prepared to finish the challenge no matter what hardships I'd have to endure and I'd truly had it rough for the first nine months. Accepting help from strangers was a difficult thing to do being such an independent individual as i. I suppose at the start i had undertaken the task of hiking Britain for selfish reasons, to prove to myself that i could do it alone but as i made progress i slowly realised that the trek wasn't just to satisfy myself but also it was for the trek supporters. It was selfish not to include others when assistance was offered. The trek was actually more than a simple hike around the coast it was a way for people to get involved with something less ordinary. It showed me that the country was filled with good people who had good intentions. It wasn't just me walking the coast i had many others with me in spirit.

It was blowing hard outside but the sun was shining and the rain had now stopped. Having hada good nights rest and fuelled by eggs, bacon, beans and toast sarah came to pick me up and drop me back at the  woodlands pub where we'd met so i could pick up where i had left off.

Thanking sarah for her generosity i headed through the village and down to the coast. I was a little disoriented at first and found it hard to navigate the maze of roads but eventually and with the help of Google earth i arrived at a carpark by the coast. I stopped briefly to take in the views and inhale the fresh sea air before turning my concentration to the task at hand. The tide was in which meant a quick hike on the bay was out of the question. Looking ahead i could just make out a faint trail leading up onto the clifftops. Pushing the overgrown fauna out of my way as i went in order to clear my path i followed the trail close to the edge. It was a fair drop from the top and one that would most certainly hurt should i have fallen. The wind was exceptionally strong so i had to be careful how I went about traversing the cliffs.

After a while the trail led me down to a small stony bay. There was no way further,  sheer cliff face plunging into the lapping waters. I was not going back i would have to head inland along the cliff face until i could find a way up. The bay was met by a muddy track which ran through a small wood, an old stone wall seperated them. On the wall i found a large sign.

Ignoring the no public right of way sign i climbed over the wall and into the woods. It  was clearly accessible. As i did so i began to mutter, "if god did make the earth and mankind inherited it then it was my god given right of way".

As i walked up the track along the cliff face i looked for a way back ontop of the cliffs. Reaching the end of the track i could see a few caravans parked up ahead and to my right a rather steep but manageable slope. I climbed to the top to be met with another old stone wall, this time it was covered in barbed wire. Carefully i made my way over and found another well trodden trail. It had to be the coastal path. Reports that morning I'd heard on the radio said the wind would be blowing a force 9, and it felt like it. I followed the path and eventually reaching the mouth of an estuary i found myself on the Lancashire coastal trail but not for long.

The path headed inland but a sign pointing to the eric Morecombe nature reserve  headed towards the marshes. I knew it was a gamble but after what I'd already gone through i figured I'd see if i could get through the nature reserve and pick up the coast again. It was an easy half kilometre to the eric Morecombe bird hide which was when i realised i could go no further.

During the half kilometre hike back i analysed where I'd gone wrong. I ignored the signs and i wasn't carrying a walkers map. There was nothing i could do about it and satisfied my appraisal was accurate and accepting the fact there was nothing I could do i eventually ended up where I'd started.

Picking up the coastal path I resigned myself to keeping the coastline in sight and wandered the roads closest dodging traffic as it presented itself. It was several miles before i was eventually able to return to the coast and its high winds.

Back wandering the edge of the salt marshes a misplaced footing and strong gust of wind almost caused a significant problem. Picking myself up off the muddy grass banks of a small creek i felt a tightening on my ankle followed by that recognisable sharp pain, a sprain. Despite being covered from head to foot in stinky marsh mud  i grabbed the tube of arnica alison had given me and applied the cream to my aching ankle.

With my boots strapped tightly i tentatively hobbled on to Morecombe. It was a gradual process but slowly the miles began to clock up. The wind was still incredibly strong with bouts of rain and hail hindering my progress . Eventually i arrived at the lifeboat station to be met by colin and kevin who treated me to a beer and burger before i settled in for the night to nurse my injuries.

1st April day 391

For me it was a surprisingly early start, 7am. I tended to usually allow my body to get as much rest as it needed waking only when it was ready. Today though i was to be treated by early bird kevin to a cooked breakfast before my bbc breakfast show interview at 8:40. With the interview done and dusted we went back to the hovercraft station to take a guided tour and to get a photo for the local press. The pressure for pr was slowly intensifying and i was beginning to wonder how i would be able to fit everything in.

Leaving the hovercraft station i hiked along the promenade against the wind towards the point before heading along the river back to lancaster, well that was the plan.

Sticking to the coast south of Morecombe is actually harder than you might think. An industrial port, power station and 4* caravan park simply get in the way. The solution was to cut across some wasteland and circumnavigate the obstructions.

After spending several hours navigating fences, following roads and footpaths and eventually finding myself at the river i was somewhat disappointed with my attempt at sticking to the coastline. In all honesty it was easier in Scotland. English trespass laws would be a hindrance and potentially extend my hike by many miles.

Now stood on the banks of the river I followed the maze of roads back towards Lancaster. The closer i got the busier and more built up it became. The weather also began to change, it started to get cold. Reaching into my pack i searched for my beanie, it wasn't there, it was gone.  My pack was gradually falling apart. The pocket I'd put my beanie in had now developed a sizeable hole. I  liked my beanie,  i really liked my beanie. There was nothing else for it but to turn about and see if i could find it. I had a fair idea where it might be. Having cut across the waste land I'd had to scramble through a few bushes, i was hoping the beanie had been plucked from the pocket and would be laying on the floor somewhere. It was to be a fair hike but in my mind, worth the effort.

Thankfully I found the beanie caught on a branch. Content and happy to be reunited with the beanie i turned about once more and headed back to lancaster. Although I'd hiked the mileage i hadn't covered the distance i was hoping. It was early evening by the time i reached the millennium bridge which carried me over the river so finding a pub i decided to stop for refreshments and a break before seeking shelter.

I was minding my own business while chatting with the locals when i was approached by a slightly anibriated irish lady. Eileen lived in Lancaster and was out with her good friend cath and ex step sister joy. After a few drinks Eileen offered me a spare room at her home in exchange for me cooking breakfast the following morning. A fair trade i thought.

13th April day 403

After sweating it out during the night i was feeling considerably better in the morning. After devouring a bacon sarnie and bowl of weetabix prepared by darryls wife i got packed up and dropped off at the station to meet more of the crew, some current but mostly retired. Alex and callum arrived later and after another photo op on the beach we each headed off in our seperate directions,  alex headed east and i west.

It was nearing lunch time by the time i eventually got under way. It was going to be a great day for hiking, slightly cloudy, dry with a little breeze and well unusually flat for most of the day. Leaving the boathouse I set off to follow the promenade to Llandudno, the first of many welsh settlements i would have trouble pronouncing.

Arriving at Colwyn Bay my days journey began to get a little more interesting, ok so I'd passed a few caravan parks and seaside arcades. I'd even passed a very impressive and overwhelmingly large castle up in the hills, a little too far to explore, but now i was entering an historically significant part of the welsh coast.

With information boards spread out along the foreshore boasting inventions such as fixed winged aircraft before the wright brothers had built theirs and discoveries of america some 300 years before columbus all made for interesting reading. I even passed a tiny and slightly out of place church. When i say tiny i mean miniscule. With only enough room for 6 or as i discovered when i went in, four knelt sisters, the curious church is apparently the smallest in the British Isles.

Aheadof me now was what was left of an old quarry on a headland known as the little orme, I'd be tackling its bigger brother after stopping in Llandudno. Leaving the easy hiking promenade i headed up to more familiar and comfortable terrain. With no feasible way of hiking at sea level round i stayed as close to the edge as safely possible. The skies were almost completely clear now and reaching the highest point on the eastern side i took a few moments out to take in the views,  looking back where I'd stopped in Rhyl the night before.

Sheer cliff faces were now determining my path around this obstacle. Veering slightly off the designated footpaths i kept as close to the cliff tops as safely possible. On the far side i headed up to the trig point to get a panoramic view and to assess potential ways back down. The sun was lowering in the sky as i gazed ahead looking down over the town i would be spending the night.

Spotting what i thought would be a potential route i began my descent, picking up a sheep trail. I was able to get so far, carefully lowering myself on the rocks but at all times concieuous that one false move could be my last.

As i gradually descended i was able to adapt my plan but my route down would soon be obstructed by densely overgrown shrubs and bushes. These I'd have to circumnavigate by traversing the sheer faces and rocky outcrops. It was now that i wished I'd had an abseil rope with me, the drop down would have been awesome.

Reaching the bottom i began to walk away and towards Llandudnos promenade. A few hundred yards along i stopped to look back. I'll be honest it looked bigger  from the bottom looking up. Continuing on i was soon captured by the fantastic victorian architecture that stretched along the promenade before me.

Nearing the town center i noticed a sole plaque embedded in the tarmac, follow the white rabbit, it said. A little further on i came upon a sculpture of the mad hatter, was this wonderland?

With the sun beginning to set behind the big orme, another rocky headland,  i headed off to seek out the local rnli station where i was to be stopping the night. The station is quite uniquely positioned in the middle of the town. This is so that depending on weather, tide and other conditions the boat can be launched from either the north shore or the west shore of the peninsula.

Arriving at the boathouse i was surprised to be greeted by a group of crew members whom applauded my arrival in fantastic form. They hadn't come to see me though, it was Monday night and for the crew of Llandudno it meant training evening.

12th April day 402

It had been a rough night for me, my bones and muscles were badly aching and I'd lost my appetite, i was particularly feeling the cold and feared coming down with an illness. The birds were chirping though and ahead of me a new day. I rooted through my pack looking for a breakfast ration but found i was completely out, all i had left were mains which meant breakfast would be chicken korma curry.

While packing up for the day ahead and a short hike to Rhyl the wind began to pick up. Struggling with the tent i still had no idea about packing away properly i knew the 'easy' day i had ahead of me wouldn't be as 'easy' as i had hoped. With the pack on my back i headed towards the beach, the wind was strong and getting stronger and what was worse was the fact it was against me.

Reaching the beach i began to head over to a dilapidated lighthouse standing proud on the sand. Progress was going to be slow as huge clouds of sand hurtled towards me. Even putting my jacket hood on and pulling it down over my face didn't stop the grains sand blasting my face. I'd covered about 200 yards unable to see ahead when i decided that I'd have to head to the dunes to walk the grass.

The wind was still amazingly strong but at least i was able to make progress. For some reason i thought sand storms only happened in deserts and i could only imagine what ash dykes had gone through on his historic trek across the gobi desert.

Battling on and despite feeling less than 100% i made gradual progress eventually reaching a pontins holiday camp when it began to rain. The strong winds  combined with high winds meant the rest of the day would be hellish. With my hood held down over my face I peered through a small opening. The wind was not only driving the rain hard towards me but also sand. Sand was quite literally everywhere.

Finally reaching the Rhyl promenade i still had a fair hike before I'd reach the boathouse where I'd meet up with Darryl. As i got closer the rain began to ease off and for a moment i wondered if the sun would actually shine through.

As i approached the station i was delighted to be invited in and given a nice hot sweet coffee. I was also surprised when i was handled two packages, one small one large. The first package from alison was a new tube of arnica to replace the one that had exoloded in my pack. The second package was from an anonymous follower, a new pair of boots, my 8th pair. 

It was soon time to head to darryls for a quick shower, pitch my tent in the back garden before heading back to the station to meet up with Alex for a quick photo, another round Britain hiker also raising funds for the rnli. Alex, 22 with a beard of biblical proportions, had an enormous 85ltr pack which was as light as a feather well about 20kg. I wasn't sure what he was carrying but i certainly wanted to swap.

That evening alex and i were invited to meet up with some more of the crew for a meal and a beer or two although i was feeling a little under the weather still and only had the one. After our little evening out alex went with callam and i returned with Darryl for a large medicinal whisky before climbing into the tent.