Eager to set off and get a good days walking in i got myself up early and on the road as soon as possible. Just as i was leaving les was arriving. I had no doubt in my mind the day was going to be lovely although my pack did for some reason feel light. Maybe it was because I'd taken the day off and given my muscles a rest maybe it was something else.
I was next to tackle the great orme, not really much of a challenge really as there's a road that runs all the way round pretty much as close to the coast as you can get. From the promenade i passed the old pier and began the leisurely hike around. Passing a small cave i noticed a couple of boulderers, chris and alex. I don't mind admitting i was a little jealous and pining for my red chillis. The guys had camped up for two nights to enjoy the fresh air, views and great faces. Heading over for a chat i was offered a coffee so dropped my pack and hooked out my mug and took the weight off my feet.
I was soon on my way again though and as i followed the road i couldn't stop myself from looking ahead attemping to plot in my headva possible cliff walk, my desire to walk on the edge being overwhelming. Unfortunately though it just wasn't possible, the road was as close as anyone could get. The views were awesome though both fore and aft.
Reaching a cafe at the head of great orme i decided to stop for a quick mocha before heading off in search of a coastal route I'd seen depicted on a tourist map hung on the wall inside. A few yards passed the cafe i came upon a trail and began the descent towards the base of the cliffs. Again i felt privileged to see views those that walked the road wouldn't see.
After a while the trail joined with a tarmac road which i later discovered had formed part of a ww2 military school. There was nothing left which would indicate any real military presence but it was easy to see why the site was chosen.
As i carried on along the tarmac i could see houses ahead, a little out of keeping with the surroundings and quite frankly wouldn't have looked out of place in the costa del sol. Beyond the houses was Llandudno, yep thats right I'd hiked 8 miles to arrive back where I'd started. Looking out and along the coast I found it hard to work out what i was looking at. A mist had dropped down and although i hoped i was looking at Anglesey i had a feeling i wasn't.
Feeling a tad peckish I stopped off at a beach side cafe and treated myself to ham egg n chips. The ham was bloody lovely. I then headed off towards Conwy along the firm sandy shore. I was now approaching an estuary, with every step it emerged from the mist to reveal the banks of the other side.
Sat in a brick shelter looking out across the water and into the grey shroud was a kindly looking fella. He waved to which i returned a greeting. "Fancy a coffee? " he called out. I never refuse anyones kind offer of a cuppa.
Being a people person with an extremely open mind and broad beliefs and opinions i often find i can talk to anyone about pretty much anything. Subjects tend to range from religion through to the natural world and history. Chris had a troubled face and was seeking guidance, he didn't know what the answer was or what his direction should be. He was a non practicing christian who believed that god had done a pretty good job and that if it had been left to him we'd all still be swimming in primordial soup. As we chatted we philosophied, compared, recalled and discussed. It was a fascinating insight into chris's life and beliefs. We had two more coffees. Before parting company i asked chris "do you think you're asking the right question?", he paused, looked at me and shaking my hand as he stood up said "you're a truly inspiring and enlightening individual". Chris then reached into his pocket and handed me £15, "i was going to use this for my bus fare but instead i think I'll ride my bike". With that he left.
Finishing the last couple of mouthfuls of coffee i gathered myself together and with a smile and a warm fuzzy feeling i set off continuing along the footpath towards Conwy. The weather was beginning to improve as i made my way towards the bridge that crossed the river Conwy. On the opposite bank stood a most impressive castle, English in construction and well looked after by the Welsh.
Conwy rnli station was close by and as i got closer i could see the doors were open which meant somebody was home in fact the shop was also open. After the usual introductions i was invited up to the crew room and introduced to those that were there. The station was under inspection so i seized the opportunity to find out more about what goes on behind the scenes. It really showed how much pride the volunteers had regarding the organisation and how much effort goes in to ensure each station is kept in tip top condition and the extra efforts the crews put in to ensure they're ready for every eventuality. I felt proud that in some small, very small way i was helping to contribute to helping to save lives and to raise awareness. Naturally i was also treated to a coffee and filled my bottles with water before setting off again.
My plan was to gain as many miles as the remaining light would allow so that i could begin tackling Anglesey the following day. Anglesey was never included in the original plan as I'd intended to only really conquer the mainland but buckling to peer pressure and my insatiable appetite for adventure i decided to make the 128 mile detour and deal with any consequences as they appeared.
A short distance from the boathouse I came upon Britains smallest house. It was at the end of a terrace and I'll be honest narrower than a single bed. How anyone had ever lived in it i will never know. When ever i travel i am always delightfully surprised by unusual and particularly random finds such as this. Unfortunately i wasn't able to go inside but i figured that maybe on my victory lap I'd be able to take a closer look.
Passing through the town i soon found myself hiking round the Conwy marina and venturing down to the beach. The skies were now beginning to clear and the wind had all but died off. As i made my way along i noticed a lady bending over frantically uncovering something in the sand. Curiosity drew me in so i went over. Mary had grown up on Anglesey and often came to the beach looking for objects of interest. The beach hadn't always been a lovely sandy beach but in fact during the victorian era was a marsh or morfa (pronounced morva meaning marsh in welsh). The marsh was often used as a dump during that time and with the sea altering the landscape was now revealing hidden treasures. On this occasion mary had unearthed a codd bottle in perfect condition which had once contained mineral water and that had been produced in Llandudno. What makes this unassuming glass bottle so interesting is its design. Inside was a glass marble and the design and shape of the lid played a huge part of its unique properties. Turning the bottle one way would release the marble allowing the contents to flow and turning it the other way would force the marble to block the top stopping anything from getting out. It was really quite fascinating. In one of marys pockets, which were full of old victorian glass and pottery was a glass marble devoid of glass bottle that she'd also found. She handed it to me "you can have that" she said.
It is really amazing what interesting characters you can meet whilst out and about and not necessarily whilst hiking Britain's coastline.
I continued on towards the end of the beach, a headland that I'm sure at low tide i would have been able to walk round but the tide was coming in and my route blocked. With very little choice i climbed up a sandy bank to join the welsh coastal cycle route and footpath and followed it round the headland. The sun was beginning to set as i made my way round to the other side where i decided I'd stop for the night. Heading back to the beach i stopped to watch the sun set before finding a nice spot above the shore to make camp and rehydrate a packet of sweet n sour chicken with rice.
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