27th - 28th June

27th June day 478

I'd found it extremely hard trying to get some rest during the night. The trains and cars did eventually stop but early in the morning the mechanised noise returned. Climbing out of my tent i went to see where i was. It had been dark when I'd pitched up and hadn't realised that the patch of grass i was occupying was directly in front of a "no camping or overnight sleeping" sign. Oops.

As i made breakfast, mug o porridge with the addition of galaxy ministrels to liven it up i overheard a gentleman with a strong London accent comment with disgust about my choice of campsite, "right in front of the sign". I just chuckled to myself. If the sign had been illuminated obviously i would have seen it and carried on further.

I was just packing my kit away ready to collapse the tent when low and behold stuart turned up wearing a nice solid pair of new boots and a big grin on his face engulfed by his beard that was now noticibly more biblical than when we first met. He was heading on to his next bnb a pub where we agreed we'd try and meet up if i made it that far.

As i left the prohibited camp site i needed to find a public toilet, digging a pit in a public place is often frowned upon. A little way along the beach i came across the first public convenience, it was locked the council had closed it down and was publicising it for rent. Like who would rent a public toilet. The next one i found required 20p for its use which was no good for me as i didn't have any change. Thankfully the one that followed not too far away was open and free. I went in to do my business. As i was comfortably sat relaxing i heard the door close a few cubicles along. This guy really needed to go and obviously didn't care who heard him. He'd either eaten something that didn't agree with him or he had a disfunctional bowl.  As i left having cleaned myself up i saw a woman standing outside. As i passed i turned and said "if thats your husband in there he should really go see a doctor". I carried on, she looked embarrassed.

Reaching the next village i found a cafe, i needed to get a bit of a charge on my battery pack so i order a small breakfast and coffee. Taking my time i ate my meal and headed to the toilets to brush my teeth and have a quick shave. I'm sure they wouldn't have minded. In fact i don't think they even noticed that the hairy man who'd come in and ordered was now clean shaven and looking ten years younger.

The path i was walking was much easier than the previous days and i made good progress. My hips were extremely sore and my back still had bruising from, well as long as i could now remember. Approaching praa sands i could see people enjoying the good weather, building sand castles and swimming in the sea. Families were gathered on the verandas of beach side cafes and bars. It was hot and i was hot. Having plenty of time to get to where I'd hoped to be i decided to stop and treat myself to an ice cream.

As i waited to be served and trying to make my mind up which flavour to indulge in a young lady walked up. I didn't really pay attention at first but we began to chat. Both indecisive about what our pallets were craving. I was edging towards mint choc chip but felt also compelled towards the toffee fudge. Unable to decide and influenced by the young lady i went for a double scope. One of each with the mandatory 99 flake.

Taking a nearby deck chair the young lady ordered her cone and came over for a chat. Hope had fallen on bad times, she'd been staying at a friends after feeling compelled to leave her flat in London when she'd began to research the occult for a documentary she wanted to make. What she  had discovered had disturbed her somewhat and be it paranoia or through genuine fear had fled convinced she was being watched.

Hope (the name she had asked me to call her as we parted company a couple of days later) was a Christian, born again. Having recovered from a rather speckled childhood which had sent her off the rails and into a life of sex and drugs she turned to the bible for guidance. She'd been staying with friends in a squat in Plymouth but when things turned as she put it 'hectic' and her friend had been arrested she headed to a small camp site about a mile from praa sands and borrowing a tent had been camping for two weeks whilst she waited for god to provide. I was somewhat fascinated by her story. Having finished our ice creams we continued to chat and i bought us both a coffee i wanted to  hear more about Hope and to try and understand her absolute faith. I guess i was still searching for answers myself and although i had absolute faith in myself i stil wanted to understand why people put there faith in an unknown power. Christianity and for that matter religion still posed many unanswered questions and this i felt was possibly a way for me to draw a unique insight into why people turn to god and not just the Christian god but gods of any religion.

In no way did i feel threatened by this beautiful young lady who'd had such a dark history so when i was asked where i was staying and what i was planning to do i decided I'd go with the flow. We left the beach together and headed back to Hopes camp site. She had an enormous tent which consisted of two pods and a dining area. She was sleeping in one pod and had her belongings in the other. Having cleared the second pod of her stuff she lay out a duvet and placed a pillow in for me to sleep on.

We continued to discuss her past and her beliefs. She'd turned Christian three years previous and although she rarely went to church she prayed every day and read the scriptures seeking her own answers and putting her faith entirely in god. She said he spoke to him directly and he replied.  She'd admitted she'd had a  falling out with him and had felt let down that she'd now ended up in a field with limited money and no way out.

Hope could talk and i mean really talk. I listened. Hope had only gone to the beach to clear her head that day and although strapped for money had bought an ice cream to make her feel good. I think she was thankful for my company though and as i told her of my journey and about those I'd met along the way. The experiences both good and trying i could see a glimmer of hope in her eye.

It was late when we decided to get some sleep. Hope had suggested that i should take the following day off and spend it relaxing with her so she could hear more and share her faith with me. I couldn't see the harm in it. In fact my body had been screaming out for a rest and i hadn't stopped since Cardiff quite some time before. I agreed and although compelled to complete the challenge i knew also that such distractions were also part of the journey.

28th June day 479

We'd both slept in til gone 10am. It was extremely misty outside and had been raining during the night. I got dressed in my stinking clothes which felt uncomfortable to my skin and made hope and i a coffee and porridge.

On the way to the campsite the day before we'd passed a lovely looking old church. Its architecture was quite unusual and set among the trees it looked quite peaceful. Although i wasn't religious and still unconvinced by hopes faith i suggested that once the mist burned off which was generally the case in Cornwall we went for a walk to pay the church a visit. Hope had never herself in the two weeks she'd been staying at the campsite been and agreed it would be interesting.

While we ate our porridge and drank several mugs of coffee the mist lifted. I wanted to share some of my knowledge about how to survive with hope. I felt that if she were armed with just a little knowledge i could pass on then she would feel better about her situation. I went out from the tent and within minutes had found a stick and several wild edible plants that were easy to identify and grew plentiful around the area.

Hope had never camped before and this was strikingly obvious by the way in which the tent had been pitched. Long screws had been used to tie the inner flysheets down and the outer fly was loose and flapping in the wind. Taking the stick i asked hope what it was. "A stick" she replied "wrong" i said "its a tent peg". Taking my folding saw i cut the stick to size and using my knife i whittled a tent peg. It didn't take long at all before the tent was repitched using the newly crafted pegs. I  then presented hope with the different leaves I'd gathered telling her what they were and how she would be able to identify them after i had gone. Hesitant at first i had hope eat each of the leaves so she could get the taste. The trust began to grow.

With the mist now burnt off and the sun shining down on us we set off to visit the church. I often felt at ease and although not a worshipper myself i did find them a calming place to gather my thoughts and often found myself intrigued by there design. As we walked along the lanes i kept my eye peeled for the plants I'd shown to hope and when i found one i stopped and asked hope to identify them. I hoped i was passively teaching her and she seemed to enjoy the experience.

The church was a humble and fantastic traditional village church. It had the usual welcoming feel as you entered. Hope went to the front and began to pray while i as i always did found a bible and turned the pages to mark 13, the end of days. Some would say it was quite morbid but for some unknown reason I had always been drawn to that chapter. I loved the words.

"Do you see these great buildings? Not one stone shall be left upon another", "For nation will rise against nation, and Kingdom against Kingdom. And there will be earthquakes in various places, and there will be famines and troubles. These are the birth pangs, the beginnings of sorrows".

Having spent several hours at the church hope praying and seeking answers and myself exploring and reading the engravings on the headstones we headed back to the campsite again i quizzed hope on the names of the edible plants.

"Do you need anything washed?" She asked. My clothes did need to be cleaned they were feeling somewhat uncomfortable but only having the one set put me in an awkward situation.  I explained that as long as she was comfortable with me sitting in my boxers while it dried then yes it would be lovely to have my clothes washed and grab a shower.

Having had a shower i stripped off and handed my clothes over. The clean boxershorts I'd planned to sit in had unfortunately gone mouldy in my pack, the plastic bag had been ripped and water had got them damp. They were rank so i decided to throw them out and wrapped my rather small travel towel around my waist so as not to embarrass hope. I'm not sure the towel did that good a job but hope seemed comfortable and went off to wash our clothes.

While we waited for the clothes to dry we toasted marshmallows on my stove and chatted some more. My back had taken a rough time recently so i asked hope if she'd mind rubbing vaseline in to help moisturise the skin.  It had been quite some time since I'd got so intimate with someone and as hope massaged the jelly into my muscles i felt relaxed. Her hands were gentle and caring.

26th June day 478

Unlike the previous days the morning was to start in quite a drab way. In one way i was a little disappointed but then on the other hand at least i wouldn't be overheating while i hiked. I closed the flap to my tent and set about making up my saucepan of mug o porridge and prepared myself for a wet day. When i reemerged from the tent a heavy mist had enveloped the area.

I climbed out and began to stow my kit away in my pack when a familiar pair of now duct taped boots appeared. "We meet again!" The voice called out. It was stuart. He'd managed to make temporary repairs on his worn boots and was hoping to get to penzance before the shops closed to buy a new pair. He didn't stop long and within seconds disappeared into the mist once more.

With everything packed i too headed into the unknown. Signs along the coastal path warned of severe cliff erosion and asked that walkers stayed on the path. In weather such as this i tended to agree. Unable to see the coast and at times unable to even see the path i did my best to continue on. I could hear the sea below which was comforting although at times had the overwhelming feeling i was in fact lost not actually following any path of any desernable nature.

Persevering i did eventually pickup the path again and eventually arrived at porthgwarra. As i headed through the tiny village i spotted a small building with a hand painted sign. It was the local cafe. Finally i would get a proper traditional cornish pasty. Ok so there was no indoor seating. I wasn't bothered about that. Then it began to rain,  again i simply wasn't bothered.

Heading off i realised that i must be nearing the famous goonhilly dish array. I remembered passing it when i was much younger. It was the place that sparked my early interest in the stars. The large dishes on the site where once used by seti (search for extra terrestrial intelligence). I wondered if i would see it from the coast.

As I continued to hike passed the minak outdoor theater which was built on cliffs but out of view from the coastal path the mist began to lift and the sun attempted to shine through. The path here was becoming considerably more challenging and to be honest in places, nail biting.

Nearly at mouse hole met Breach, an elderly woman out picking nettles for a nettle soup chomping on sorrel as she went. She was from America but was over in Cornwall visiting her 92 yr old blind and deaf mum and had picked sone wild honeysuckle as a gift. Breach was very much into wild foraging and the benefits of eating the foods our generation had forgotten.

Arriving in Penzance i stopped at a store and bought pre cooked bbq chicken pieces to add to my curry flavoured super rice for my evening meal. Rice on its own simply wasn't appealing. The thought of having the same mug o porridge again was also a little unappealing so i decided to get some chocolate to add to it a trick I'd picked up from martin. I wondered how he was doing.

The evening was drawing in now and i needed to find a spot to pitch up so decided to head to the far side where i hoped it would be quiet. The town was holding a large festival with music in the streets, a fair ground and plenty of drink flowing. Usually this would be the type of thing i would stop to enjoy but with limited funds and having hiked a fair way from lands end all i really wanted to do was eat dinner and relax. Moving through the crowds was a challenge trying not to knock anyone over with my huge pack. Most people had balance issues as it was.

I made it without incident and began hiking away from the hustle and bustle of the festival alongside the railway. Spotting a small grassy area in the dim light i decided i was far enough away from drunken youths to get a good nights sleep. I'd just set up camp and was preparing my culinary delight, improvised chicken curry,  when fireworks began to launch from the harbour opposite. Somehow it seemed appropriate considering I'd just started my final push along britains south coast.

25th June day 476

I was quite excited when i woke, it was going to be a good day, not only was the sky clear but I'd be able to see the most south westerly point of Britain later maybe even reach it by nightfall.

I left my secluded little spot earlier than normal and headed off. The wild cornish coast continued to provide me with breath taking views and challenging terrain. Gradually the path became less rugged and more tame. Along the way i not only passed old ruins and the occasional cottage but also a myriad of day hikers mostly heading for pendeen. Well the lighthouse at pendeen.

It was another scorcher of a day and quite unusually i had kept a couple of mouth fulls of water which were very much welcomed as the day progressed. As i came close to the lighthouse myself i found a lovely little waterfall that ran onto a gorgeous empty sandy beach and as i was carrying enough coffee to start a small mobile cafe and plenty of gas which was really quite unusual i decided to stop and make myself not one but two mugs of coffee. There was a nice cool breeze as I sat next to the crystal clear  water of the waterfall and down the small valley i could see the turquoise blue waters of the sea. It was an idealistic little spot for an extended break.

Just as i was having my second mug of coffee a familiar face appeared from above. Stuart had stopped off in st ives while I'd carried on another five miles. I must admit its always good to randomly see a familiar face while on the trek. Stuart sat down on a rock nearby his boots looking a little tattered. He'd tripped on one of the enormous boulders and the sole of his boots had become detached. I'd gotten rid of my duct tape many months before but i rummaged around my pack looking to see if i could find an alternative such as paracord to make a temporary fix to see him through til he reached some kind of civilisation. Unfortunately my paracord had had to be cut when Fishguard rescue services had "rescued" me on an excercise in wales. As it was no longer long enough to hold my pack to hoolley I'd also thrown what was left away. I felt a little helpless. Stuart assured  he'd be ok though and while i finished off my coffee he darted off.

Slinging my pack on i headed off towards the old tin mines. It was a large industrial area now no longer commissioned. As i approached the mines i met a couple of elderly gentlemen. One of them had been gradually hiking the south west coast over a period of years doing small sections at a time. They were both in their 70's which i had to admire.

Grouping up we all walked among the ruins and between the mine shafts. One of the gentlemen, their names i wish I'd remembered, commented that the highlight of the miners day having to work in the dark and probably never seeing daylight was having a pasty and a mug of tea. "That would be the highlight of my day too" i commented. "When we get to cape Cornwall" he said "I'll buy you one".

We carried on continuing to follow what we believed was the path but it soon dawned on us that maybe somehow we'd deviated. A thought that became more apparent when we ended up have to rock climb down a very large boulder onto a narrow ledge. Judging by the smoothness of the ruts and cracks we all felt sure we weren't the only ones to have made the same detour.

Eventually after hiking a few more good miles and descending into a lovely valley, which was very different to the rocky and barron landscape of the mines, we ended up at the car park at cape Cornwall. There was a small catering van ideally located there which not only sold ice cream and drinks but also sold pasties. Unfortunately the lady in the van had given her last pasty to another hiker who's boots were falling to pieces, stuart. I settled for a choc mint chip ice cream and a bottle of spring water. The ice cream had a flake.

I was now a mere 5 miles from lands end. The end of the day was quite literally in sight. On my way along the coast path heading down towards the sea in frontof the cliffs i met another hiker. Jessie had walked from lands end to john o groats three times and was training for his fourth attempt. We had a fair bit in common he loved the outdoors and hated work. We walked together for a while discussing our adventures but after a couple of miles i needed to take a rest so said goodbye and wished him good luck.

As i approached Sennen my legs felt like they were about to give way beneath me. I put it to the back of my mind focusing solely on the goal i had set for the day.

Passing through Sennen i could smell chips being cooked. I couldn't resist the temptation and being hot and feeling extremely hungry what halm could it do. I stopped at the pub on the promenade and ordered a bowl of chips with two slices of bread and a pint of orange juice and lemonade. £9.50 it came to. In weatherspoons you can get chips, a burger and a pint for less than a fiver. Ok so the chips were good but to be honest not £9.50's good.

I'd just finished eating and enjoying my very expensive drink when i saw the local lifeboat crew returning from their weekly excercise. I hadn't expected to see them at all especially this late in the day. I grabbed my pack and headed up the road to the boathouse after them. After a quick chat and photo i filled my bottles and  walked up to lands end a couple of miles away. The signpost wasn't quite as nice as the one at john o groats and i felt sure the signs were pointing in the wrong direction.

Thick dark clouds had now filled the clear skies and it looked like rain was coming. After posing for a quick selfie i headed off away from the tourist attraction to find a place to camp somewhere in the wilderness.

Settling in i lay out on my sleeping bag. It seems that no matter how long you hike for, and I'd been hiking for a long time, you always ached once you relaxed. Every bone and muscle just seems to tell you they've had enough. Feeling particularly tired i couldn't be bothered to make up a dinner and although I'd pulled out a packet of rice it sat there untouched while i settled for a coffee.

23rd - 24th June

23rd June day 474

The air was still and the skies clear. Inside the tent i was slowly baking. I wasn't far from st Agnes having perched on the cliffs that night. It didn't take long at all before i found myself descending towards the little village.

St Agnes is located partially on the hillside and partially at the bottom of a delightful valley. There was a certain peacefulness about the place as i headed towards the harbour to pick up the coastal path. I began to climb yet another steep slope back towards the cliffs stopping just above the harbour to look back. Thats when i spotted a small wooden building brandishing a large rnli flag. It was the voluntary lifeboat shop. I turned about and headed back down to pop my head in and say hi.

Sat in a couple of garden chairs on the front porch were two ladies nattering about the village life. As i approached one looked up and said "you must be the man walking Britain". They seemed very impressed with my progress and as has been the rnli way i was offered a coffee and presented with a packet of fudge and a packet of biscuits.

While i was sat chatting and tucking into the biscuits some lifeboat supporters drew up who were on a little hike of there own. They'd seen a piece about the area in a times column and were asking for details as what had been written seemed a little incorrect. They were right, whom ever had written the column had mixed up their norths and souths. If the group of friends had followed the instructions in the article they would have ended up going in completely the wrong direction.

With the group now pointed in the right direction and me filled with chocolate chip biscuits and caffeine i headed back to the path and back to the cliff top walk. My pack was heavy and the day was hot. My tshirt after a while was wringing wet with sweat.

After a couple of miles i eventually came to the next valley where there was a small remote cafe serving snacks and drinks. I was feeling peckish and although tempted by a burger settled on some fancily named sandwich and a can of 7up. Essentially it was ham with melted cheese on toasted garlic bread. It was quite delicious. There were only two benches and space on only one. I asked politely if i could sit with those who were already sat there only to discover it was the group I'd help direct earlier at st Agnes.

We chatted some more as i devoured my lunch but before i continued on with my walk and while they waited for their ride home i was given a cup of coffee a slice of lemon drizzle cake and a slab of flapjack to take with me.  I eventually had the flapjack for breakfast the following morning.

The rest of  the day was spent hiking the hills and enduring the rising temperatures until i reached Portreath. Evening was now upon me but luckily the local store was still open so I bought a carton of orange juice, a litre of milk, bread rolls and a ready made tikka. It was enough for my evening meal. From Portreath i continued along the coastal path until it began to get dark. I found a reasonable spot on the headland with st ives across the bay and settled in, watching the gorgeous sunset as i reheated the curry and dipped my rolls.

24th June day 475

It was incredibly peaceful up on the headland. The sun was out and as i woke i could hear the faint sound of birds chirping away. I was running really low on gas so my first priority was to locate a camping store either in Hayle or at the very least in st Ives. I knew that once I'd left st Ives i wouldn't really be passing any significant towns or even villages until I'd passed lands end.

Setting off on the days adventure i headed along the coastal path around what remained of the headland and down onto the beach which seemed to go on for ever. Thankfully it didn't although i did at one point find myself among the dunes avoiding getting my feet wet with the tide all the way in. It took some time before i was able to find a way out and back to the beach.

As i approached the estuary i felt tempted to unpack hoolley and make a sneaky crossing avoiding hayle completely. But then i saw it, a shining beacon of hope. Asda. The superstore with a whole lot more. I needed to get food to carry me round lands end and this would probably be the last superstore I'd come across for a few days. I grabbed two packets of savoury rice, a packet of pasta in a tomato and basil sauce, a chorizo sausage, some rolls, a packet of mug o porridge  and a milkshake. I also grabbed a pot of fruit, some crisps and a crusty bread baguette to satisfy a pang. Eating the baguette with some of the sausage followed by the fruit filled me nicely. I like the freeze dried food from mountain house but it was a refreshing change.

It was another four mile hike to st ives around the estuary and with the summer temperatures soaring i was finding myself soaked in sweat and feeling tired. Reaching st ives my first port of call was mountain warehouse to get some gas. They had an offer on, buy one get one free (bogof).  Great. Now not only was i carrying enough coffee to see me through to dorset but i was also now carrying more gas than i needed. My pack was now becoming a tad heavy and i had a tough hike through some wild coastline before arriving at lands end.

My mug was now looking very beaten which is not surprising considering what it had gone through since Southampton. I did think about getting a new one whilst in the store but again it was bogof. I certainly didn't want to carry two so I left it and went to find the lifeboat station which was being modified to fit the new shannon class lifeboat they were to receive at the end of the year.

Again i was met with a smile and coffee. I got my battery pack on charge and filled up my bottles with water not feeling confident I'd be able to get water until i reached lands end, as it turns out i actually came upon several lovely clear streams with quaint little waterfalls. After a couple of hours break, i set off around the harbour and out of the town. The coastal path almost immediately went wild. It was very similar to some of the paths in wales and very much reminded me of parts of  Scotland.

I'd met several hikers over the previous weeks who'd mentioned that the path from st ives was hard going and that I'd have to climb over boulders in order to stay on the trail. They weren't wrong either. I wouldn't say it was too hard going in fact i was in my element on the trail. Large rock falls had in places completely covered any path that was once running along the coast there. It was exciting and interesting. I loved it.

I had no idea where i was as i continued and around 8:30pm which was early for me i found a lovely place to pitch up. I did ponder for about ten minutes before i eventually decided that i probably wouldn't find anywhere better before nightfall.

With camp set i began to sort my dinner. Pasta with chorizo. Boiling water for a coffee using a new canister brought my attention to the fact that my stove wasn't working as well as it used to. I'd thought i was running out of gas. Luckily i had a backup with me which i must admit I'd considered sending home several times but decided to keep anyway. Having switched stoves i set about making the evening meal it wasn't high calorie but it was filling and had all the right ingredients.  The rolls had been somewhat squished but that was ok. Cooking while wild camping with one saucepan and limited ingredients is always a challenge but its a challenge i always happily accept.

22nd June day 473

The sea below the cliffs had been roaring all night and hadn't let up even by the morning. It had rained hard throughout the night while I had slept but had thankfully stopped by the time i woke. The wind was still blowing hard though. Packing the tent away was going to prove to be a challenge in its self. As i removed the penultimate peg from one end a sudden gust filled the flysheet like a parachute. With lightening reflexes even superman would have been proud of i grabbed the tent and stopped it from blowing off the cliff and off to god only knows where.

Somehow I did manage to pack the tent away although how it fitted in to its bag I'll never know. The important thing was that it did. Being triumphant under tough conditions always brings a smile to my face no matter what the circumstances are. Also not loosing my tent over the cliff was something to celebrate.

Leaving my home for the night i trudged along the cliffs to Newquay to meet up with the ladies that ran the local save the children shop. On my travels I'd wanted to visit more but simply hadn't come across them. As i entered the shop i was immediately ushered into the back. Not because i was of any kind of embarrassment but because they'd made me a chocolate cake and it had been taunting them all morning.

By the time I'd left the shop I'd had three slices and was treated to two coffees. A local columnist had also interviewed me for the paper asking me all sorts of questions and shoving a dicta phone under my nose for the answers. It was the first time that had happened.

Time was getting on and i still had one more place to visit before leaving Newquay, the local lifeboat station. The station wasn't far away but getting to it was a challenge in itself. I did find it though and as per usual immediately offered a coffee. My caffeine and sugar levels were sky high. After a chat and a joke i was handed two parcels that had been delivered to the station. Both had coffee sachets, sweets and chocolate. As i lay the contents of the parcels out on the crew room table i counter how many sachets i had. It was over 60. Normally I'd carry enough for a week. Thats about 14. There was enough coffee here to last almost till i got back to Southampton. Problem was where would i put them all and how much heavier would my bag be. It didn't matter they were coming with me no matter what. Somehow I managed to rearrange my kit and fitted everything in. This little 60ltr bag was beginning to astound me. Its side pockets seemed bottomless.

From the station I headed out to the  point by going  round the harbour where i came upon the old lifeboat station with what used to be britains steepest launch slipway. It must have been quite a ride launching the boat as it slid down the slipway between rocks close by and into the water. I would have loved to have had a go.

From the old boat house i continued following the coast round and  crossed the beach. On the far side I had to head up to the road in order to hike round the next headland where i met Gary. Gary had had an accident and recieved a severe spinal injury. He loved the outdoors but due to his injury was now reduced to a little bit if fishing. While he was recovering he'd bought himself a four wheel drive camper from Japan and had decided to visit some of the places in Cornwall he'd never been to but had always wanted to. It was a strong reminder how lucky I was to be able to do what i was doing. In life you don't get second chances.

Time was now getting on and i had to get around the point and down on to the next beach before the tide started to come back in. There was a narrow estuary waiting for me. Large boulders had been placed across the river which were only accessible at low tide.  Now when i say large boulders i actually mean enormous. It was like they'd been placed there by a giant. Although why a giant would need stepping stones i had no idea surely a giant could have simply stepped over the river. It didn't matter. I had to literally climb up onto the first then jump from one to the other without slipping on the seaweed and kelp. It was like something from a game show.

I managed it without getting wet which was quite simply a bonus and marched off across the beach to rejoin the coastal path again. It was much of a clifftop hike before i found myself climbing back down to another long beach.

Nearing the far end of the beach there was a stretch of cliffs. I could see the tide was now in fact coming in but thought I'd have enough time to pass in front of the cliffs before I got cut off. I'd managed to get about half way, the water line still a fair way to my right when within seconds a one large swell i found myself knee deep in water. The tide had swept in extremely quickly. Making haste and forgetting how tired i was or in fact how heavy my pack was i began running as fast as i could.

Having escaped what could have potentially been a bit of an embarrassing situation i sat on the steps to what ever town it was I'd reached and caught my breath back. I then continued on up onto the cliffs away from the town and into an area where mining had once provided employment for the locals. It was dusty, rocky and barron. It was very different terrain to what I'd spent days hiking. After several miles and finding beauty in the different colours of the cliffs and the unusual shapes of the desert like rock features i found a lovely spot to pitch up, settled in and watched the sun go down. It was stunning.

19th - 21st June

19th June day 470

My legs were seriously aching and i felt exhausted as i crawled from my sleeping bag. Seagulls were calling out and the sea below the cliffs was making a continuous soothing  white noise. I boiled some water for a coffee and opened the ice cream box martel had given me. I still had 4 slices of flapjack left. That was breakfast.

It was nicely overcast with a cool breeze as i set off towards port William. The day was going to not surprisingly be another tough and physically demanding hike. No sooner had i reached the top of one climb i had another descent with the inevitable ascent waiting for me at the bottom.

Gradually the clouds cleared and as lunchtime approached i found myself sweating and feeling quite uncomfortable. I was about two miles short of port Isaac when while making another ascent i came across the opening to a cave. It would have been rude to simply pass it by so i dropped my pack and grabbed my head torch. Thankfully I'd picked up some new batteries a couple of days before so with a nice bright beam i ventured in.

The cave turned out to be a tunnel, a very long tunnel. Keeping my head down i was able to walk with my back arched as the tunnel descended below. After a while I was able to see light emanating from an opening ahead. I wondered if it was once used by smugglers. I didn't know where the tunnel would lead but had a good feeling i would eventually emerge in some secluded cove or bay.

The entrance at the bottom was much larger than the one at the top and sure enough as i left the tunnel i found myself on the shore of a small bay below the clifftop path. An ideal place for smugglers to offload their contraband. What an awesome discovery. How long had it been their and what had the smugglers brought ashore.

Returning from whence i came i re entered the tunnel and made my way back up to the coastal path and collected my pack. Port isaac was but a few more miles away and a relatively easy hike. Arriving in the village i went up to the coop to get a couple of rolls and a pint of milk. Whilst sat outside on my pack i was approached by faye who was on the local lifeboat committee. Faye called chris the lom and arranged a place to camp in his garden and although i was going to keep hiking that evening with at least another 5 hours of light left. Faye insisted I stop for a beer and watch a free show down in the harbour outside the boathouse performed by the fishermans friends folk band.

Why ever not. After munching on a roll and finishing off my milk i headed down to the harbour to meet some of the crew and have my evening meal. There was a flurry of activity at the station, the tv program doc martin was filmed in port isaac and today they were shooting a scene down at the harbour.  Martin clunes the doctor in the series wasn't present but there were an incredible number of people there just to shoot a few seconds of footage. I watched with amusement. Once filming had stopped the band setup and crowds gathered. I had a really good evening with everyone at the station.

20th June day 471

Once again it was a misty morning. I hadn't slept well on the front lawn. The road the other side of the wall had cars passing what felt all night. At 8am my alarm went off and i wanted to roll over and bury my head. I got up though and packed my kit away and headed inside for a slap up breakfast. Around 10am chris took me back to the village so i could continue my journey along the coastal path to a place called rock. This was where I was going to make my next crossing in hoolley.

Heading up from the boathouse passed doc martins cottage the next few miles would consist of more strenuous ascents and descents. It was beginning to feel like no sooner had i got up then i was heading  down again. The path was certainly not getting any easier and my thoughts were with martin. I wondered how he was coping and how much further he'd managed to get.

Eventually though the path did get easier but my troubles weren't over. Hayfever had begun to kick in. More so in my left eye. It was painful and the more i rubbed the worse it got. Arriving at port quin and spotting a drinking water tap i decided to stop for a coffee and to drop a couple of antihistamine tablets. I could barely see.

Gradually the antihistamines took effect and my sight returned. I grabbed my pack and set off. At first it was a steep climb along a road but i was soon to veer off and rejoin the path along the clifftops. The mist was getting heavier now and the views lesser and lesser. Which was a shame as I'd been looking forward to seeing this part of the cornish coast with its turquoise blue waters and ravenous rocky cliffs.

It had just passed 1pm by the time i decided to take another short break. My breaks were what i was convinced had allowed me to continue for so long with very little injury. It was also a good reason to take my environment in even with the impaired views. I was about to set off again when i saw a young lad hiking at a tremendous pace.

Stuart was taking some time out to hike the cornish coast in aid of macmillan. He'd started in bude and had met martin who'd told him of my quest. We walked at great speed together over the next mile or so. Stuart was averaging 3mph even with the ascents. I wondered how long it would be before his pace affected his performance. I was able to keep up although I was breaking a sweat until we hit a set of steps. My new nemesis. Stuart was only carrying 9kg in his pack stopping at youth hostels each night. My monstrous pack was now my achilies heel. I simply couldn't keep up with stuart as he thundered up the steps like they didn't exist. Like gravity played no part in his mission to reach Plymouth. Before I knew it he was way ahead. as he looked back i waved him on, a distant fairwell and good luck.

I carried on at my usual pace, enjoying what little i could see when the mist temporarily thinned. Just around the corner i heard my name called out. It was ian and sally out on another of their coastal adventures. Polzeath was just round the corner the surf and beach littered with surfers, kayakers and paddleboarders. As i climbed down off the cliffs and began crossing i wished i had the time to stop and join in. The mist had now begun to thin out and my hopes of crossing the camel estuary increased.

I continued on to rock where the estuary narrowed considerably and was the best place to get into the water. I was feeling tired and hungry and knew i would need to get water before i set off so i looked for an open cafe or bar and ordered a bowl of fries and a lemonade. The mist began to thicken once more and it became obvious a paddle would prove to dangerous as i couldn't see the far side. It had faded out of existence.

With water in my bottles i decided to head back to the dunes and pitch up for the night. The tide had turned now and was coming in and i didn't fancy having to paddle into the unknown against it.

21st June day 472

With the peace and quiet of the dunes i was able to get a good nights rest and woke to a slightly better day than the day before. For breakfast i finished off the last two chunks of flapjack and had my usual coffee. The plan was to wait for the tide to turn and then ride the current from where i was down to a beach on the far side of the river camel.

Having packed up i headed off towards the shore to look for a good place to get in whilst also looking for a place to get out on the far side. The waters looked calm although the wind was funnelling up the estuary. Eventually i found a reasonable place to launch so i worked with haste to get hoolley ready. The tide had now begun to turn and head out which was what I'd hoped for.

Pushing away from the shore i began to paddle. At first i was against smallish swell but as i ventured further across it became apparent that the calm waters weren't so calm after all. Getting about half way across I found myself in the deep channel.  The waves were rising and dipping a good two to three feet. Some were breaking. Keeping a level head and turning into the waves i rode over the top and down the other side all the time keeping an eye on what was to follow.  This simple crossing was gradually turning into one of the most exciting paddles of the trek and my gopro was safely stowed inside my pack. I was slightly gutted but on first impressions didn't feel it was worth capturing on film.

Having battled my way passed the channel i began to surf hoolley the rest of the way. Catching whatever waves i could ride. Things calmed considerably the closer i got to the shore and running the raft ashore proved easier than the launch from the other side.

Rejoining the coastal path i was met a continuous stream of day walkers all out for a pleasant stroll. There was a nice cool breeze and ample cloud cover. The lack of decent meals was taking its toll on me and i could feel my body slowly devouring itself. Stopping briefly at trevone i made myself a coffee and nibbled on an energy bar before setting off towards Constantine bay home of d.h. Lawrence.

Compared to the recent challenges of coastal path the route ahead was pleasantly simple and not in the slightest bit strenuous. The ascents were gradual as were the descents. The weather had been good to me too other than the occasional gust knocking me slightly off balance. Gradually i made my way round headland after headland along the way enjoying quite reasonable views and coming across falcons looking for prey below took my time.

As I'd been hiking I'd been nibbling on some mixed nuts and raisins I'd picked up hoping they'd stave my hunger and provide me with enough energy to see through the day. It didn't seem to work though so when i found a sheltered valley with a stream i decided to break into one of the last remaining ration packs I'd been saving. Chilli con carne washed down with another coffee. This left me with just one pack now and i didn't know when I'd next receive more supplies. Only having 96p in my wallet i knew i wouldn't be getting any more money deposited in my bank till Tuesday which was still two days away. I also only had a couple of snickers and energy bars left too. Those I'd have to save for the Monday.

Feeling refreshed and energised i carried on hiking. Newquay wasn't much further now and i wanted to be camped nearby before nightfall. My pace had indeed picked up though the goodness of the chilli powering me on.

It was around 9pm when i passed watergate,  an unusually posh tourist village where the world surfing championships are held. I felt really out of place. Trying to look inconspicuous i quickly located the coast path and headed up to the cliffs and safety. Newquay was now a mere two or three miles away and i knew I'd have trouble finding somewhere quiet  to pitch. Coming across a small sheltered patch on the cliffs just big enough for my tent i set up camp. I had just enough water with me for two coffees so set about making one leaving just enough for another in the morning. Dinner would consist of a snickers and an energy bar. Delightful.

16th - 18th June

16th June day 467

I woke with quite the hangover. Immediately i got some water on for a coffee and took a cocodamol to ease my head. Ian had made up some porridge and handed me a packet. To flavour our breakfast ian had mixed in nuts, raisins and chocolate. It was a good way to start the day. We collapsed camp and picked up the coastal path again.

As we hiked my pack proved more and more unbearable and my sun burnt back helped matters less. It felt like  barbed wire rubbing on my shoulders and back. It was an easy hike once we got started and the rumours of the path being severe seemed a little over stated.

Suddenly there was a steep ascent immediately followed by a steep descent  into a valley which would have been  perfect for camping. Sheltered from all sides with lovely flat grassy areas. Clean fresh water flowed over waterfalls out to the bay. We weren't stopping though. For us there was a very steep climb up the other side away from the campers paradise. It was calf pumping. The real testing walk was now upon us. Ahead would be a series of climbs each getting steeper and higher. It was exhausting work and we could both feel the burning in our muscles. I was suffering quite badly and each step would grate against my burns.

Still we were determined but looking back at martin, his face said it all, sweat was dripping from his beetroot coloured face. This was goliath and i felt like david but stripped of my sling. We both looked up only having got half way. Not a word was spoken. We both took a deep breath and step by step we climbed towards the heavens.

Reaching the top would under normal circumstances have been a point of celebration but ahead we could see another olympus sized ascent following a steep descent towards hell. These were the birth pains. this was the battleground, nature versus man.

We began our descent coming across a small hut built by poet and playwright ronald duncan. It was a lovely spot and an udeal place to rest. Somebody had left water in two emptied milk containers. It was time for a well earned brew and to break out some of martels flapjack.

Feeling strong again we gathered ourselves together and headed down to the next valley and back up the other side. Reaching the top martin and i both stopped. We found ourselves staring at the climb aheaf. "it doesn't matter how long we stare its not going to change. Well not in our life time!" I said. So off we went once again down then back up. The hills kept coming, we just looked at each other and without a single word said took a deep breath and continued on.

For a few miles and several ascents we'd seen the large dishes of the gchq listening post. At the beginning martin said "that'll be just over the next peak" after a while i began to ignore his claims. "I'm never going to believe a word you say again", i commented. They simply didn't ever seem to get any closer. They were always just over the next peak.

Together we persevered and eventually "just over the next peak" came. Before us were some enormous dishes. "I wonder if they can get sky sports" i said as i took a photo. The complex was secured behind several rows of fencing topped with barbed wire. There were cctv cameras every 100 yrds. Martin noticed the fences were also electrified and upon closer inspection i noticed a little sign saying "no photographs".

We continued on. The path now led us down from the installation to the  small valley of duckpool. This is where we met up with Sally whom I'd met along with her husband ian on the coastal path about a week earlier. They'd offered me a room at their bnb for the night saying "it would be an honour if i stopped".

When sally arrived martin and I began to say goodbye but sally intervened and offered martin a place to pitch in their garden. Later that evening when ian returned from cycling he said he'd make up another room for martin. Sally had made us lasagne and ian broke out the whisky and some home made wine. We discussed our adventures and it turned out that martin had climbed some of the same routes ian and sally had. It was a lovely evening and one I'll never forget.

17th June day 468

Having spent an hour before climbing into bed attempting to cram everything from my old 80ltr pack into the 60ltr bergaus ian handed me i managed despite being quite badly burnt to get a good nights sleep waking at 8am to join everyone for breakfast. A heavy mist had settled in overnight which for me was perfect for walking. Ok so the views would be compromised but at least martin and i would be cool over the days strenuous and challenging hike we had ahead.

After being dropped off back at the coast by ian, martin and i began the day climbing the first hills to arrive at the cafe on the next beach about 40 minutes later. The mist was thick with a couple of hundred yards visibility. We couldn't even see the top of the hills we were ascending. Stopping for a quick coffee break we decided to make the rest of our way to bude across the beach. The tide was out a long way and still receding. The mist was also beginning to thin and we were able to fully appreciate the fantastic geological formations of the rocky cliffs. With plates of folded rock and vertical faces it was incomprehensible how the landscape was formed.

As we made our way over the sand which was hard in places and soft in others we came upon the remains if a boiler from an old steam ship. Now covered in barnacles and corals it had well and truly been claimed by the sea.

Bude was now just a little further ahead a town i was familiar with having visited once when i was young camping with the family and again in 2007 when i paid it a visit with Sally to try a bit of kayak surfing. I wasn't too goos at it back then spending most of my time emptying the water out of the kayak after being capsized time and time again.

Bude was where martin and i were to part company. Before we did we grabbed a traditional cornish pasty and stocked up with a few supplies from the super market. I hate goodbyes so martin and i decided we'd go and do the appalaichian trail in the future maybe after I'd conquered the nile.

Leaving bude i set off to follow the coastal path once more. Hiking the shore was simply out of the question. Ahead i had the most difficult section of the coastal path to attack. As i left bude the mist which had appeared to thin out slightly returned with avengence. The coastal path intensified dramatically and the ascents became steeper and more challenging. No longer able to see more than 50 yrds ahead meant i could niether see the bottom or in fact the tops of the climbs. In fact it was becoming more difficult to even see where i was going. Under normal circumstances I'd have to admit i would highly recommend against hiking anywhere in such poor weather. Quite frankly it's dangerous.

After hiking a fair way and descending from the cliffs a town appeared out of the mist quite suddenly.  I'd arrived in crackington. Seeing an inn, the coombe barton, i stopped to get myself a coffee and a bowl of chips. Not wishing to head off into the mist again i started chatting to mel the bar maid who'd served me. I'd hoped she could suggest a small place where i could pitch the tent overnight. She went off to ask around but when she returned she placed a key in front of me and said "i don't suppose i could tempt you with this?". Mel had spoken to the owners about the challenge and had been inspired by my efforts she'd offered to pay for a room. The owners wouldn't have it they told her that I could stop the night and breakfast would be included.

18th June day 469

It was hard to believe that a year ago I'd been camping opposite the island where the novel treasure island was written.

It was sunny and as i got myself ready i peered out i had my first glimpse of the  beach. It had been so misty the day before that I simply hadn't seen a thing other than the inn, its carpark and a few houses near by. Having rested well and filled my belly with a delicious breakfast i set off. The going was hard with endless ups and downs each as steep as the ones before. Making one of the ascents after a steep descent into a narrow valley i met a fella walking towards me. We were about half way. Finding a small area just large enough to pass each other i waved the chap on.

Ray had heard  about some chap hiking round Britain with a collapsible kayak the previous April when he decided to spend a week hiking some of the south coast. I'd only been going for about a month at the time. Now ray had decided to take a week or so hiking this particular part of the south west coastal path. When he realised I had been the fella he'd heard so much about the previous year a huge smile appeared like a Cheshire cat. He quite simply couldn't believe it,  to be honest niether could i. I think it made his day. We said our goodbyes and i headed on to Boscastle where the museum of witchcraft and magic is although with a fair hike ahead and limited funds i decided to get an ice cream and make my way on to tintagel the home of king arthur and the knights of the round table.

It was another hard slog from Boscastle but at least the weather was holding out. As i ventured away from the village along the clifftop path i picked up another companion, a small dog. It reminded me of the hike I'd had with a lost collie some months prior. As we hiked the little dog ran on ahead then when i was out of sight ran back, looked at me with a cocked head as if to say "hurry up" or "whats taking so long". I wondered what I'd do if it was still with me when we reached tintagel. I figured I'd probably attach a rope and take him to find a police officer or call 101 to report that I'd found the little rascal.

Approaching tintagel the dog left suddenly. I guess it probably headed back home so i continued on to find a pitch up on the cliffs just passed the youth hostel and opposite the remains of an old slate quarry collecting water from a spring at the bottom of the castle  as i passed.

14th - 15th June

14th June day 465

It was a lovely sunny and calm morning.  The bad weather of the previous days a mere memory. As i sat munching on my last breakfast ration i struggled to remember the last time I'd had a day break. Cardiff was the only place i could recall when i spent the day at the save the children offices.

The evening before from the top of the cliffs I had stopped to look ahead at the coastline. It looked as though I'd be able to get all the way to Clovelly along the shore across the stony beach. But only at low tide. It was worth a crack. High tide wouldn't be until much later that day which theoretically would give me ample time. Its always dangerous veering away from set paths to walk the coastline especially in areas where you have no familiarity. The cliffs here were also notoriously unstable and could potentially give way collapsing down on top of me.

So i set off. It was still hard going in a different way to ascending and descending. It was all about balance and motion. It was what I was used to. After a couple of miles i saw a hiker sat on the beach. This was martin an i.t  contractor. I went over feeling a break was in order. Martin had travelled all over the world and experienced many cultures. Sitting down beside martin we began to chat whilst also enjoying the gorgeous views and warmth of the sun. It was great listening to his adventures and experiences which oddly included some more psychedelic experiences when he'd experimented with unusual substances such as mushrooms and dmt not something I was personally familiar with.

We'd been talking for sometime when i realised the tide had come in quite a substantial way. We both picked up our packs and together began to hike the stony and rocky shoreline. I took lead and martin followed watching where i stepped and commenting on how easy i made it look. Apparently 10,000 hrs of repetively doing something makes you an expert.

Arriving at bucks mill and with the tide very nearly lapping the bottom of the cliffs further along near Clovelly martin decided to head up on the coastal path and we parted company. I carried on feeling convinced that  I would just make it in time before being cut off.

As I was just leaving bucks mill i was stopped by a couple who asked whether it was possible to get to Clovelly along the shore. I said i was going to give it a go but recommended that they used the coastal path as the tide was coming in and the way ahead would be hard going.

The shoreline did indeed get tougher and i was feeling the pressure of racing the tide. As i got closer i could see the water was getting very close to the cliffs. I couldn't stop for one moment. Eventually after climbing over large boulders and around small outcrops i was faced with the decision either turn about and head back or get my feet wet. I was a mere few hundred yards from the village so there was absolutely no way i was going to head back. Wet feet it was. With the small waves rolling up against the cliff i waited for a small lull and went for it. I only had to clear about 6 feet or so of rock and I'd be  sat on the small stony beach of Clovelly.

The village was holding its first ever seaweed festival. A folk band were playing music and stalls celebrating seaweed were lined up around the harbour wall. I got the distinct impression I'd been there  many years before. It all looked very familiar.

Having caught my breath I headed over to have a look round and find the lifeboat station. The local fundraising ladies were  serving tea and coffee and cakes and had been given strict instructions to ply me with cake.

From the station i then had a steep climb up the cobbled street to meet martel the lifeboat operations manager, her husband Neil and daughter scarlett. Martel had kindly offered to put me up for the night and feed me.

15th June day 466

Having slept a little too well i eventually woke around 8:30. With blue skies outside and a warm breeze i simply felt like stopping for the day. I couldn't though i still had a fair way to go and a long hard day ahead of me. Martel made me up a sandwich and packed me a lunch and Neil offered to take my pack on to hartland point. With three strong coffees inside me i was ready to go.

Leaving Clovelly was quite simply a hard slog up the cobbled streets and paths to a carpark near the top. It nearly killed me. Thankfully i was able to hand my pack over to Neil who kindly offered to take it on for me in the car while i made my way to Hartland  point. Without the weight of my pack i began walking at a reasonable pace and to start with the going was easy. I had a lovely stroll through woodland shaded by the trees with occasional glimpses of the coast below. As i made my way along the coastal path the regularity of valleys with steep descents and of course steep ascents increased.

I was beginning to get really hot as i walked and without my monstrous pack decided to remove my tshirt to keep me cool and even out my tan. Ahead sticking out on a headland i could see an unusual mushroom shaped structure. It was a radar used by air traffic control and later discovered it had been built on the site of a world war 2 radio listening post. As i drew closer i spotted a familiar character who'd taken a break from the hiking and was putting his kit back on ready to hike again. It was martin the fella I'd bumped into on the beach to Clovelly.

Together we set off for hartland point to collect my pack. We were only a couple of miles from the pub at the quay but the hills continued and even though i was light of kit i still found the walk quite tiring. I also felt my skin burning and put my tshirt back on so as not to get sun stroke or get sun burnt.

Arriving at hartland quay i retrieved my pack which had been waiting for me behind the bar and joined martin for a drink. He'd decided that he'd gone as far as he'd wanted and with the spectacular views who could blame him. Myself i was considering knocking out another 8 miles and attempt to get to duckpool by nightfall.

As we sunk a couple of beers we talked about adventures of climbing mountains and hiking the camino. Martin had truly lived an adventurous life and had been lucky to travel all over the world spending time in places I'd listed on my bucket list.

After a fair few more drinks though and after watching the sun set i decided to stay and camp too. Grabbing our packs we set off away from the pub and headed up to the grassy carpark above the bay where we pitched our tents and settled in for the night.

12TH - 13TH June

12th June day 463

I woke early expecting a storm as predicted by the weather forecasts and  was pleasantly surprised by clear skies. It was still humid and very warm. After packing up my gear i set off to the lifeboat station again to meet the crew who were once again going to be out exercising with their new shannon. I arrived early and got my backup batteries on charge before heading to a nearby cafe for breakfast. I was very conscious that i only had two more packets of breakfast rations left and wanted to keep them for my next wild camp.

With 9am approaching quickly i called back at the station. There was a hive of activity in the crew room as everyone got debriefed. I kept out of the way and headed outside to find a place on the quay to watch as the new boat was launched. It was very different to any launch i had seen before.

It was 1pm by the time the excercises were finshed and the crew returned which meant i was running behind schedule to get to Appledore. With around 18 miles between me and the river taw, my next crossing, i knew it wouldn't be until later that evening i would arrive at the banks of the estuary.

Leaving Ilfracombe with cowboys shooting each other in the street, I'm not even joking, part of a victorian celebration i followed the coastal path. The climbs where steep and strenuous. They followed one after the other. The coastal path was indeed as I'd feared more physically demanding with every mile. It was actually making Scotland seem like a bit of a holiday. As i slowly conquered each summit the air became more humid and the clouds more densly packed. then it began to rain and it wouldn't stop for the rest of the day.

It was a long 8 miles but as i walked round morte point i did eventually see Woolacombe ahead. I was getting hungry and the evening was drawing in. With only 3 more mains and only 2 breakfast rations in my pack I decided to stop at the captains table cafe for burger and chips washed down with one of the best hot chocolates I've ever tasted come to think about it the burger was amazing too.

Leaving Woolacombe i headed down to the long sandy beach passing a row of colourful beach huts all with girls names such as rita, doris and Marian. It was still grim and i could hardly make out the tops of the surrounding hills. The clouds were low and with no air movement they lingered. At the far end of the beach I had to climb up to the cliffs again picking up the coastal path and followed it round baggy point.

Night was beginning to fall and with very little light i was once again wondering if or when I would find somewhere suitable to camp. Even though it was still raining i persevered which ultimately paid off. A small patch of grass once again on the edge of a cliff would become my home for the night.

13th June day 464

Although it had stopped raining during the night it didn't look to clever outside in fact it looked like it would possibly rain again. The plan for the day was to hike from where I'd camped down to the beach and across it then make my way round the headland and down onto the next beach which was extremely long. At the end of the second beach i would find myself at the mouth of the estuary opposite Appledore.

Low tide was at 10am and i knew i wouldn't be there by then but I did know the tide would have turned and would be coming in. On numerous occasions as with many of the pack raft crossings I'd done I'd been warned about how fast the current ran in and out of the river. That didn't bother me.  I always liked to see for myself.

It took several hours of hiking before i reached the point i was considering crossing. The tide was now indeed coming in and i could clearly see the current was flowing fast. Strong winds were also blowing in off the sea and the waters were choppy. Very choppy but nothing i couldn't handle.

Across from me i could see the all weather lifeboat of the Appledore rnli. I'd been given a contact number for martin the coxswain of the station. I figured I'd better give him the heads up that I'd be arriving momentarily and would meet him on the slipway to the boathouse which i could also see clearly across the estuary. "We're just launching the rib" he said "wait right there".

It was an unusual response i thought but then i figured that maybe they were offering to act as a safety boat for the crossing. It didn't take long before martin and the mechanic arrived. I watched as the little craft flew across the estuary make light work of the current and jumping the waves as it went. As the rib came up on shore martin called out "jump in, we're taking you back". I didn't really have much time to think. I already had my life jacket on and had been getting ready to unpack hoolley.  I grabbed my pack off the sand and swung my legs into the rib. It wasn't very graceful I'll admit.

In no time at all we were across the estuary, I'd been robbed of the excitement of paddling but had had it replaced by the excitement of high speed dash across the churning estuary. It hadn't been the first time they'd done such a crossing,  carol who'd joined me for part of the Pembrokeshire coastal path had also been taken across in the rib from the station to almost exactly where I'd been picked up. Maybe fate or destiny had something to do with it. I wasn't sure.

At the lifeboat station I was initially offered a coffee and then given the opportunity to freshen up using the showers while martin checked the condition of my life jacket. Thankfully he reported that other than a little salt corrosion on the self inflating gas canister everything was ok.

It was about 15:00 by the timeI left the guys and headed off away from Appledore towards westward ho! via the burrows, a nature reserve on a spit that forms the mouth of the taw estuary. Now as far as i am aware westward ho! is the only place name in Britain that has an exclamation mark in the name. I'd like to know why. There must surely be some interesting story behind it. Westward ho! appeared to be quite a newish town and one popular for the tourists. From here i would once again be entering the wilderness and tackling the undulating landscape that makes up devons northern coastline.

I continued hiking for several miles. I was now aiming to be in Clovelly the following day. There had been a heavy mist for the majority of the day but by 8pm it had started to lift. I could just about make out the town in the distance and i estimated it was about 8 more miles. Potentially i could have pretty much made it by nightfall but i was to be meeting martel the lom for the Clovelly lifeboat the Sunday afternoon and i didn't want to arrive too early. This gave me a great excuse to find somewhere to pitch early for a change and relax.

It seemed the closer to Southampton i got and spending more and more time around people lost in the normality of everyday life i myself was beginning to miss what most would call normality. The act of shopping for the evenings meal, standing in a kitchen preparing dinner, snuggling up on the sofa to watch a film.

4th June day 455

With less than 815 miles to go before i reached Southampton i was feeling amped. The low murmurings of the nearby motorway could hardly be heard and I'd had  a reasonably good nights sleep. After having breakfast and packing up and after I'd removed three ticks that had been feasting on my blood i began to hike towards Bristol which at first was easy and pleasant. As the day progressed the slowly begun to be a little unbearable but nowhere near as unbearable as the route I'd have to take. Leaving the coast when confronted by some industrial works i was forced to hike the roads that passed through mile after mile of industrial parks and estates. With no sea breeze to cool me down the  temperatures seemed to soar. My pack had also now given up.

When carol had joined me for part of the Pembrokeshire coastal path I'd noticed that one of the back supports had ripped through the lining shifting most of the weight over to my right shoulder. Now the right back support had ripped through the bottom of the pack and niether where doing any supporting in the slightest. It was something I'd have to put up with unless i could find some way of making repairs.

Now leaving the industrial sector of Bristol i was heading into the residential area. This was just as difficult to navigate. Roads criss crossing with every street looking the same. Rows of houses blocked my views and disoriented I did my best to locate the footpath to cross the motorway bridge over the river avon. After a while i turned to passers by for directions.

It wasn't easy but i did eventually find the path that took me up onto the gangways that ran alongside the multiple lanes and down towards Portishead on the far side. The temperature was continuing to rise and i was beginning to find it a little unbearable. Taking regular breaks and finding shade whenever i could i kept hiking away from the noise and pollution of city life. The next few miles appeared to take an age to cover and i was still no closer to the coast. I passed hundreds of imported cars parked in vast car parks waiting to be delivered to showrooms across the country.

Portishead was a mere 3 miles away but i was feeling the heat and beginning to waver. Portishead is an up and coming town with new housing developments that weren't visible on the satellite images I'd cached to my phone. Sticking to the edge i followed them round to bring me out on the promenade and back to the coast. On the far side of the marina i could see the newest addition to the rnli, a new station that had been built to house the new boat and crew who until recently had been an independent lifeboat service.

After a brief visit and coffee with dunking biscuits i headed off eager to clock up some more miles taking advantage of the cool evening air. Ideally i hoped to get to Clevedon before nightfall which would mean a slightly shorter hike the following day. It was hard picking up the coastal path from Portishead as it simply wasn't well sign posted but i did eventually come across the clifftop walk following a couple of miles meandering.

The clifftop walk was narrow and with several miles to hike before reaching the town and evening drawing in i began to wonder if I'd be able to find somewhere to pitch up before nightfall. At every possibility i stopped to see the viability of camping. Looking into one field i heard a rustle. A few seconds later from beneath a bush a badger popped out. We both froze. I slowly reached for my camera but as soon as i did the badger turned about and disappeared from whence it came.

Finding a suitable place to stop was proving most difficult. But i didn't give up. Even with the daylight almost completely gone i continued along the narrow footpath along the clifftop. It was another couple of miles and gone 10pm by the time i found a small grassy patch below me on a ledge. It was good enough. Just big enough for the tent and just far enough away from the cliff that i wouldn't accidentally fall off.

9- 10th June

9th June day 460

Again the curtains confused me when i woke. Thankfully pete brought a cuppa in to me on the couch. After breakfast i gathered my kit together and we all headed back to the beach where I'd met up with pete and sue. Today was to be really quite a special day. Today i was to start following the south west coastal path. 630 miles trail hiking which started in Minehead and finished in Poole. It was England's longest national trail and the equivalent of climbing up and down mount everest no less than four times.

Sue was in bettsy and mitch had joined us. We all walked together along the promenade to the Minehead lifeboat station passing the official start of the south west coast path and marking the start of the final leg of the trek. Pete was waiting camera in hand to capture this special occasion. After taking a look round the lifeboat station we had coffee and walked together to the end of the road where we said goodbye and i headed off towards devon.

Almost immediately i found myself having a taste of what was to come. I'd been dreading the south west coast path. All it wasn't a steep climb the incline continued to follow the coastline for about a mile before settling off. But only for a short while. It was then a very steep almost vertical climb to get to the top.

The weather was good for walking and despite the climbs and steep endless descents i made reasonably good progress stopping by a stream for a quick coffee to refresh and rest. It wasn't long before I reached the marshland near Porlock weir. Porlock weir is a small quaint village not for from Porlock and if you hike the south west coastal path you will indeed pass through it. The tranquil surroundings and picturesque views accompanied by a couple of pubs a cafe and a restaurant beckoned me to stop for a pint of orange juice and lemonade before setting off again up into the hills amongst the trees. It was getting late and as i hiked through the woods i had to find somewhere to stop and set up camp.

10th June day 461

It still hadn't sunk in that i was now coming up to my last few months on my journey. So much had happened and I'd met so many people it was hard to process. Questions were beginning to arise about what i was going to do once i got back. Where would I stay, how would i fund the next challenge,  what plans and arrangements  would I needto make to enable me to paddleboard the nile. I knew the following months would fly by and i also knew i would soon be completely out of supplies.

It was going to be another lovely day. Not too hot and certainly not too cold. Following the footpath i continued through the woods which was as close to the coast as i was able to get. Along the way i met various walkers, some on a short holiday and others in it for the full 630 mile duration. Over the following 6 odd miles i found myself much like on the camino passing them or while i took a break them passing me.

The coastal path eventually left the gorgeous woodland and on a more baron and rugged terrain split. You could go left and take a climb up and behind the headland or for the foolhardy walk round to the lighthouse and go up a very steep climb along a narrow trail in front of the headland. It was very reminiscent of some of the trails i had followed whilst hiking the peninsulas of Scotland.

Now back on top of the cliffs the hike to Lynmouth was quite literally down hill all the way. Making my way towards the final descent i once again bumped into not one but all the walkers I'd met that day. They were all taking a break overlooking Lynmouth enjoying the view and chatting about an odd fella they'd been bumping into throughout the afternoon.

As i hiked through Lynmouth i came across an old cliff tram. I'd ridden on one somewhere on the east coast. Like the other this one was also water powered or gravity fed. Eager to share my working knowledge and impress the operator i began chatting. Before saying goodbye i mentioned that i fancied an all day breakfast. John very kindly recommended a small cafe at the top of the tram in Lynton called Lily Mays.

It was obviously fate. With the  taste of bacon in my mouth and the smell of fried eggs in my nose i set off following johns directions. Lily Mays was easy to find and on a hot summer evening a gratifying sight. Unfortunately they'd closed just half an earlier. I sat down out side a took a moment to rest. While sat there Gordon the chef popped out. I told him about the trek and how i was gutted i hadn't arrived a little early. "No problem" he said, "you sit there and I'll bring one out for you". Although the cafe was closed making an all day breakfast for a weary traveller was simply no problem for them a generous and thoughtful act of sheer kindness. It was delicious and what really made it stand out from all the others I'd had was a little secret ingredient hidden by the beans, a slice of toasted garlic bread. It sounds a bit wrong but it tasted so right.

I was now feeling energised once again and ready to put a few more miles in before nightfall.  I wasn't sure how far I'd be able to get but I was eager to see what else the coastal path had to offer. Leaving Lynton i headed back to relocate the footpath and headed towards the valley of rocks. The path here was unlike any coastal paths i had encountered thus far. It was tarmac and very easy going. The tarmac path led me to a place called castle rock which i assume was the large rock that looked out over the Bristol channel towards wales. It certainly didn't look like a castle but none the less i climbed it like a boss and when i stood tall and proud i felt like a king.

Rejoining the coastal path after my little excursion up the rock i left the tarmac footpath and began following a well trodden trail into the woods. It was quite surprising to me as i hadn't anticipated so much woodland along the south west coast path quite the opposite. The path eventually brought me to a narrow road which passed by an old abbey which was now used as a Christian retreat and activity centre. As i approached the abbey i noticed three large wooden crosses on the hill overlooking the channel. I'll be honest it looked like a scene from some kind of horror movie so i didn't hang around too long.

The path did eventually leave the road and i soon found myself back on a narrow stony trail high above the water. As i made my way along the sun gradually began to set. I could just about make out the coastline of Wales on the horizon. It then occurred to me that it wouldn't be long now and it would soon vanish out of sight.  It also occured to me that i would soon need to find somewhere to pitch up. Darkness was just around the corner and i sincerely hoped a space large enough for the tent would also be just around the corner.

I had to hike a good few more miles before I began to descend into a valley and once again among the trees. A river flowed between the two sides each equally as steep as the other. I knew from looking ahead i didn't want to continue as there would certainly not be anywhere up on the cliffs to camp. Thankfully at the bottom which was where i was hoping to find a small clearing i came upon a track near to an old bridge that crossed the river. Next to the track was a narrow but suitable verge. It was good enough.

8th June day 459

I had a relaxing morning charging batteries and drinking coffee whilst chatting with dave and helen. It was a lovely sunny day and only having a mere 10 miles to hike to Minehead i was in no real rush to set off.

From Watchet i could see the big marquee of butlins but it seem to matter how far i walked it never appeared to get an closer. Waiting for me in Minehead was sue, a long time trek supporter who'd regularly commented on my posts and offered encouragement. Keeping to the beach in front of the cliffs i stomped on listening to my mp3 player. It was a lovely warm and sunny day.

With the sand getting softer and getting closer to Minehead  i opted to hike the permissive footpath along the edge of the golf course. Pete, sues husband was waiting for me on the dunes. I didn't recognise him at first but ge got my attention and we continued on a little further ro where sue was waiting.

Sue, a spritely 80 yr young, climber and mountaineer had been following my progress for many months and had been looking forward to our meeting. Unable to walk great distances sue now relied on bettsy her off road mobility scooter to keep tge adventure alive. She also had been tackling her own challenge, wild swimming every month of the year.

Having met up we all went back to their mountaineering  friends home, mitch and rich. I had a bath and we headed out for a meal. That night i slept on the couch.

7th June day 458

It was a perfect sunny start to the day, clear blue skies and hardly a breeze in the air. It was a perfect day for a crossing saving me having to walk a long way along the river parrett to Bridgewater and then back again. I was picked up from the campsite by marc a member of Burnham lifeboat  and taken to meet the rest of crew as they kitted up for the mornings excercise.

At around 10:50am i was to launch hoolley for what i hoped would be an easy and uneventful paddle before heading on to hinckley power station and along to wachet to meet an old friend dave. The crossing was text book and i landed safely. Having packed my kit away i hiked along the beach towards hinckley power station. Due to building works the coastal path now turned inland but with the tide on its way out i headed down to the shore and hiked over the bedrock to Watchet where i met up with dave n helen.

I had known dave for a couple of years and had met him when i lived in chandlers ford. At the time i didn't know it but he was a heroin users. He was a good lad though and we quickly became friends. It was good to see him again and since moving away from the temptations if his passed life he was well on the way to recovery. He'd met helen during the early days of his recovery and they'd moved to Somerset where they began to make a new life together.  They were good for each other.

Arriving at the harbour i contacted dave and he came to get me and show me the flat he and helen had been living in. It was great hearing about their new life together and seeing the flat they had decorated putting their own personal signature on it. They also had a package for me, my ninth pair of boots.

That evening we all sat in the lounge and tucked into a delicious thai curry helen had made followed by strawberries and cream.

6th June day 457

I now had less than 730 miles to go. I'd slept well and having packed up camp headed over to the sluece gates. On the far side of the river was a caravan park but between me and it were two sets of very high security fencing. As i approached the first fence i could see that i hadn't been the first person to face this obstacle. The barbed wire that would have run the length of the fence had been cut and removed. I  grabbed hold of the chain link fence and hauled myself up. I swung my legs over the top and dropped in ontop of the sluece gates. Turning i could now clearly see the far side was the same. Again i pulled myself up the fence and hopped over the top dropping down into the caravan park.

As i walked away feeling quite pleased with my efforts it began to lightly shower. I was a little disoriented as i walked on through the camp grounds but finding the exit i continued to follow the road back to the coast.

I dropped down to the sandy beach and began the long hike following the shore. Again the wind was strong and kite surfers were taking full benefit of the conditions playing in the surf and getting up quite a speed. The showers had now passed and the sun had come out.

The beach took me all the way to Burnham on sea and it didn't take me long to reach the iconic stilted lighthouse which marked the beginning of the Burnham promenade and from there only a few minutes further and i was stood outside BARB the hovercraft rescue station. Checking the messages on my phone i received a text from alison informing me that my estimated eta would be 9pm that evening. I was 9 hours early.

Nobody was expecting me. I also received a message from Haydn of SARA  (Severn Area Rescue Association). Haydn and his wife had kindly picked up the ration box I'd forgotten to collect from Chepstow a few days before. Texting him back i let them know i had arrived and within minutes he pulled up in front of the station. No sooner had Haydn arrived as Graham from BARB passed by. He'd only nipped to the shop and was not only surprised to see me there but also Haydn and his wife. At that alison called it was chaos. Mark and budgie then turned up and i just went with the flow.

Once everything calmed down i was invited to join Haydn and his family for lunch and an ice cream at the cafe next door. On returning from lunch we could see a scurry of activity at the station. Hovercrafts were being hooked up to 4x4s and sirens rang out. Budgie had used the Q word when he was showing me around. "Its been really Quiet recently" he said. Now three children were stuck in the mud at bream (pronounced 'bree-am' by the locals or 'breem' by the tourists I'd been informed).

With everyone out on a shout i decided to see helen at the Burnham rnli station, which was literally 200 yrds away tucked up behind morrisons, and shown around her station and the kit they had including a newly developed haglund tracked tractor ideal for launching either of their inshore boats. The d class for shore rescues or the b class for larger recoveries.

With all the introductions done i was given a lift to home farm caravan and camping site, which mark from barb had organised, by Haydn. Although it had been an easy days hike the rest of the day was really quite packed.

5th June day 456

Outside the tent i could hear the waves slapping hard against the rocks. Gradually i rose and made myself breakfast. Clevedon was a couple of miles along the cliffs and it didn't take long for me to reach it.

On the far side i put the town behind me and with my sights set on getting to western super mare i ventured along the sea wall knowing that I had now left the coastal path and would have to make up my own route which would involve negotiating a wide and muddy river. If the tide was in i was sure I'd be able to paddle across but if it was out then as long as the muddy banks were reasonably solid I'd take a chance and atrempt to wade through. I wouldn't know until i arrived.

At this point i couldn't see the river i was to tackle but i knew it was waiting for me. As i carried on following the seawall i began to feel anticipation as well as apprehension. It was quite normal whenever I entered or approached the unknown.

Soon arriving on the muddy banks i looked up and down along its length. The tide was well on its way out. What was left was a narrow and what appeared to be a shallow channel running down the middle. It was immediately obvious hoolley would be staying packed away in my backpack. The question was would i be able to simply walk across. The mud looked soft like a chocolate mouse. I needed to come up with a way of checking how solid it was before committing to a decision.

Putting my pack down i searched for a reasonable sized rock. Having found one weighing a couple of kilos i gingerly made my way towards the soft banks through the bog weed. With an underarm through i launched the rock about halfway between the water and myself. As the rock flew gracefully through the air it landed with precision and promptly disappeared silently  leaving nothing but a deep square shaped hole. The river banks had well and truly claimed my test apparatus. It didn't take long a mere few seconds to decide i had no other choice than to walk along the river until i could cross.

The weather was now beginning to change, the wind increased and clouds covered the sky. It was a fair hike but i did eventually find a sluece gate where i was able to cross. Heavy plant machinery were doing some heavy excavation nearby and i got the distinct impression i wasn't supposed to be there. Keeping a low profile I ducked down behind grass banks that ran the length of the river and headed back towards the coast.

Ahead of me was a headland which at one time had been used by the mod as a firing range. As i got closer i could see that it was no longer in use. The steel security fences were old and rusty and a hole had been cut allowing for easy access. Squeezing through the gap bur only just i entered the military range and hiked towards the far end of the compound finding another hole in the fence to make my exit.

My energy did feel low, i was drained the wind can often have that effect. I continued on though and if you were to ask me where or how i found the energy i simply wouldn't be able to answer you. I simply focussed on the horizon and kept putting one foot in front of the other. I was heading to sandy point. The tip of a headland, a turning point, it was sandy point.

Reaching the tip i could see out to the horizon and the next stage of the days hike. From sandy point I'd have to hike a long sandy beach then head up into a woodland and on to western super mare. Having crossed the beach but before entering the woods i took my pack off to give my shoulders a rest.

The woodland walk was pleasant and a well maintained footpath made the rest of the hike easy going. Great efforts had been taken to look after the woods with thinning projects to allow light to penetrate the deepest recesses abd allow a diverse range of natural plant life and wildlife to flourish.

Leaving the woodland i entered the concrete habitation of western super mare and made my way to the lifeboat station where i met the crew. They'd just been out on a shout less than half hour earlier. After a quick break i continued along the promenade the wind was still high with wind surfers and kite boarders enjoying the thrill and power of the waves.

The path now seemed to disappear among the sand dunes but with the tide out i decided to continue along the beach. Reaching the end i turned inland and headed through a nature reserve. I was looking now to find somewhere away from civilisation to camp. The evening was drawing in so i took a moment to take a look at the local satellite images to attempt to identify somewhere quite. Seeing what looked like a water treatment plant near to a sluece gate i had been made aware of whilst visiting the lifeboat station in western.

Deciding it was within walking distance and would allow me to start the following day in a good position to cross the river i set off. I didn't walk far before i met a man carrying a large rucksack, his tent was scrunched up and hanging off the back. His shoes were old and worn and the bottoms of his trousers and cuffs of his jacket torn. He was stood in front of a gate unable to pass through having a small hurd of young cows blocking his passage.

I went over "they can be a right bugger can't they, you camping?" I said tying to strike up a conversation. He turned to me slowly, he was young but his face weathered. It was apparent he'd fallen on bad times. I wondered if he was travelling around or if he stayed in town during the day but headed out into the wild at night seeking safety from solitude. "You can never be sure of them" he said. "Where you headed?" I asked. "To the water treatment works" he replied. "Sounds lovely, lets see if i can get them to move" i nodded at the cows and went over to the gate. Pushing it open against one of the young heifers. At first it didn't budge it just looked at me. I pushed harder to let it know who was boss. In a raised voice i told it to move. Sure enough it worked the cows bunched and let me passed. As i strode off and made my way through  i glanced back and called back "thats how you do it. You just got to ve assertive". I expected the man to follow but he simply stood there in what i imagined was disbelief as the cows returned to there original position.

After walking for a few miles and with night beginning to fall i came to the treatment works but kept going determined to pitch up next to the sluece gates. Thankfully i didn't have much further to go before i arrived at the river. i could see the sluece gates were fenced off which meant I'd have a little challenge the following morning.