9- 10th June

9th June day 460

Again the curtains confused me when i woke. Thankfully pete brought a cuppa in to me on the couch. After breakfast i gathered my kit together and we all headed back to the beach where I'd met up with pete and sue. Today was to be really quite a special day. Today i was to start following the south west coastal path. 630 miles trail hiking which started in Minehead and finished in Poole. It was England's longest national trail and the equivalent of climbing up and down mount everest no less than four times.

Sue was in bettsy and mitch had joined us. We all walked together along the promenade to the Minehead lifeboat station passing the official start of the south west coast path and marking the start of the final leg of the trek. Pete was waiting camera in hand to capture this special occasion. After taking a look round the lifeboat station we had coffee and walked together to the end of the road where we said goodbye and i headed off towards devon.

Almost immediately i found myself having a taste of what was to come. I'd been dreading the south west coast path. All it wasn't a steep climb the incline continued to follow the coastline for about a mile before settling off. But only for a short while. It was then a very steep almost vertical climb to get to the top.

The weather was good for walking and despite the climbs and steep endless descents i made reasonably good progress stopping by a stream for a quick coffee to refresh and rest. It wasn't long before I reached the marshland near Porlock weir. Porlock weir is a small quaint village not for from Porlock and if you hike the south west coastal path you will indeed pass through it. The tranquil surroundings and picturesque views accompanied by a couple of pubs a cafe and a restaurant beckoned me to stop for a pint of orange juice and lemonade before setting off again up into the hills amongst the trees. It was getting late and as i hiked through the woods i had to find somewhere to stop and set up camp.

10th June day 461

It still hadn't sunk in that i was now coming up to my last few months on my journey. So much had happened and I'd met so many people it was hard to process. Questions were beginning to arise about what i was going to do once i got back. Where would I stay, how would i fund the next challenge,  what plans and arrangements  would I needto make to enable me to paddleboard the nile. I knew the following months would fly by and i also knew i would soon be completely out of supplies.

It was going to be another lovely day. Not too hot and certainly not too cold. Following the footpath i continued through the woods which was as close to the coast as i was able to get. Along the way i met various walkers, some on a short holiday and others in it for the full 630 mile duration. Over the following 6 odd miles i found myself much like on the camino passing them or while i took a break them passing me.

The coastal path eventually left the gorgeous woodland and on a more baron and rugged terrain split. You could go left and take a climb up and behind the headland or for the foolhardy walk round to the lighthouse and go up a very steep climb along a narrow trail in front of the headland. It was very reminiscent of some of the trails i had followed whilst hiking the peninsulas of Scotland.

Now back on top of the cliffs the hike to Lynmouth was quite literally down hill all the way. Making my way towards the final descent i once again bumped into not one but all the walkers I'd met that day. They were all taking a break overlooking Lynmouth enjoying the view and chatting about an odd fella they'd been bumping into throughout the afternoon.

As i hiked through Lynmouth i came across an old cliff tram. I'd ridden on one somewhere on the east coast. Like the other this one was also water powered or gravity fed. Eager to share my working knowledge and impress the operator i began chatting. Before saying goodbye i mentioned that i fancied an all day breakfast. John very kindly recommended a small cafe at the top of the tram in Lynton called Lily Mays.

It was obviously fate. With the  taste of bacon in my mouth and the smell of fried eggs in my nose i set off following johns directions. Lily Mays was easy to find and on a hot summer evening a gratifying sight. Unfortunately they'd closed just half an earlier. I sat down out side a took a moment to rest. While sat there Gordon the chef popped out. I told him about the trek and how i was gutted i hadn't arrived a little early. "No problem" he said, "you sit there and I'll bring one out for you". Although the cafe was closed making an all day breakfast for a weary traveller was simply no problem for them a generous and thoughtful act of sheer kindness. It was delicious and what really made it stand out from all the others I'd had was a little secret ingredient hidden by the beans, a slice of toasted garlic bread. It sounds a bit wrong but it tasted so right.

I was now feeling energised once again and ready to put a few more miles in before nightfall.  I wasn't sure how far I'd be able to get but I was eager to see what else the coastal path had to offer. Leaving Lynton i headed back to relocate the footpath and headed towards the valley of rocks. The path here was unlike any coastal paths i had encountered thus far. It was tarmac and very easy going. The tarmac path led me to a place called castle rock which i assume was the large rock that looked out over the Bristol channel towards wales. It certainly didn't look like a castle but none the less i climbed it like a boss and when i stood tall and proud i felt like a king.

Rejoining the coastal path after my little excursion up the rock i left the tarmac footpath and began following a well trodden trail into the woods. It was quite surprising to me as i hadn't anticipated so much woodland along the south west coast path quite the opposite. The path eventually brought me to a narrow road which passed by an old abbey which was now used as a Christian retreat and activity centre. As i approached the abbey i noticed three large wooden crosses on the hill overlooking the channel. I'll be honest it looked like a scene from some kind of horror movie so i didn't hang around too long.

The path did eventually leave the road and i soon found myself back on a narrow stony trail high above the water. As i made my way along the sun gradually began to set. I could just about make out the coastline of Wales on the horizon. It then occurred to me that it wouldn't be long now and it would soon vanish out of sight.  It also occured to me that i would soon need to find somewhere to pitch up. Darkness was just around the corner and i sincerely hoped a space large enough for the tent would also be just around the corner.

I had to hike a good few more miles before I began to descend into a valley and once again among the trees. A river flowed between the two sides each equally as steep as the other. I knew from looking ahead i didn't want to continue as there would certainly not be anywhere up on the cliffs to camp. Thankfully at the bottom which was where i was hoping to find a small clearing i came upon a track near to an old bridge that crossed the river. Next to the track was a narrow but suitable verge. It was good enough.