14th - 15th June

14th June day 465

It was a lovely sunny and calm morning.  The bad weather of the previous days a mere memory. As i sat munching on my last breakfast ration i struggled to remember the last time I'd had a day break. Cardiff was the only place i could recall when i spent the day at the save the children offices.

The evening before from the top of the cliffs I had stopped to look ahead at the coastline. It looked as though I'd be able to get all the way to Clovelly along the shore across the stony beach. But only at low tide. It was worth a crack. High tide wouldn't be until much later that day which theoretically would give me ample time. Its always dangerous veering away from set paths to walk the coastline especially in areas where you have no familiarity. The cliffs here were also notoriously unstable and could potentially give way collapsing down on top of me.

So i set off. It was still hard going in a different way to ascending and descending. It was all about balance and motion. It was what I was used to. After a couple of miles i saw a hiker sat on the beach. This was martin an i.t  contractor. I went over feeling a break was in order. Martin had travelled all over the world and experienced many cultures. Sitting down beside martin we began to chat whilst also enjoying the gorgeous views and warmth of the sun. It was great listening to his adventures and experiences which oddly included some more psychedelic experiences when he'd experimented with unusual substances such as mushrooms and dmt not something I was personally familiar with.

We'd been talking for sometime when i realised the tide had come in quite a substantial way. We both picked up our packs and together began to hike the stony and rocky shoreline. I took lead and martin followed watching where i stepped and commenting on how easy i made it look. Apparently 10,000 hrs of repetively doing something makes you an expert.

Arriving at bucks mill and with the tide very nearly lapping the bottom of the cliffs further along near Clovelly martin decided to head up on the coastal path and we parted company. I carried on feeling convinced that  I would just make it in time before being cut off.

As I was just leaving bucks mill i was stopped by a couple who asked whether it was possible to get to Clovelly along the shore. I said i was going to give it a go but recommended that they used the coastal path as the tide was coming in and the way ahead would be hard going.

The shoreline did indeed get tougher and i was feeling the pressure of racing the tide. As i got closer i could see the water was getting very close to the cliffs. I couldn't stop for one moment. Eventually after climbing over large boulders and around small outcrops i was faced with the decision either turn about and head back or get my feet wet. I was a mere few hundred yards from the village so there was absolutely no way i was going to head back. Wet feet it was. With the small waves rolling up against the cliff i waited for a small lull and went for it. I only had to clear about 6 feet or so of rock and I'd be  sat on the small stony beach of Clovelly.

The village was holding its first ever seaweed festival. A folk band were playing music and stalls celebrating seaweed were lined up around the harbour wall. I got the distinct impression I'd been there  many years before. It all looked very familiar.

Having caught my breath I headed over to have a look round and find the lifeboat station. The local fundraising ladies were  serving tea and coffee and cakes and had been given strict instructions to ply me with cake.

From the station i then had a steep climb up the cobbled street to meet martel the lifeboat operations manager, her husband Neil and daughter scarlett. Martel had kindly offered to put me up for the night and feed me.

15th June day 466

Having slept a little too well i eventually woke around 8:30. With blue skies outside and a warm breeze i simply felt like stopping for the day. I couldn't though i still had a fair way to go and a long hard day ahead of me. Martel made me up a sandwich and packed me a lunch and Neil offered to take my pack on to hartland point. With three strong coffees inside me i was ready to go.

Leaving Clovelly was quite simply a hard slog up the cobbled streets and paths to a carpark near the top. It nearly killed me. Thankfully i was able to hand my pack over to Neil who kindly offered to take it on for me in the car while i made my way to Hartland  point. Without the weight of my pack i began walking at a reasonable pace and to start with the going was easy. I had a lovely stroll through woodland shaded by the trees with occasional glimpses of the coast below. As i made my way along the coastal path the regularity of valleys with steep descents and of course steep ascents increased.

I was beginning to get really hot as i walked and without my monstrous pack decided to remove my tshirt to keep me cool and even out my tan. Ahead sticking out on a headland i could see an unusual mushroom shaped structure. It was a radar used by air traffic control and later discovered it had been built on the site of a world war 2 radio listening post. As i drew closer i spotted a familiar character who'd taken a break from the hiking and was putting his kit back on ready to hike again. It was martin the fella I'd bumped into on the beach to Clovelly.

Together we set off for hartland point to collect my pack. We were only a couple of miles from the pub at the quay but the hills continued and even though i was light of kit i still found the walk quite tiring. I also felt my skin burning and put my tshirt back on so as not to get sun stroke or get sun burnt.

Arriving at hartland quay i retrieved my pack which had been waiting for me behind the bar and joined martin for a drink. He'd decided that he'd gone as far as he'd wanted and with the spectacular views who could blame him. Myself i was considering knocking out another 8 miles and attempt to get to duckpool by nightfall.

As we sunk a couple of beers we talked about adventures of climbing mountains and hiking the camino. Martin had truly lived an adventurous life and had been lucky to travel all over the world spending time in places I'd listed on my bucket list.

After a fair few more drinks though and after watching the sun set i decided to stay and camp too. Grabbing our packs we set off away from the pub and headed up to the grassy carpark above the bay where we pitched our tents and settled in for the night.