With such long dark nights I've found myself waking up during the night wondering when dawn will break. It was quarter to eight when it was finally just light enough to see without the aid of a torch. I clambered from the coffin and set off to get some more water for breakfast. There were thick heavy clouds lingering above me, I just hoped the rain would pass me by.
After packing my gear away I was eager to make the most of the daylight and set off following the tarmac lane to wherever it would take me. The rain seemed to be holding off for the time being which frankly was great but I wasn't sure if later that day it would turn. It was cold but wearing all my clothes and three jackets kept me reasonably warm. The lane eventually stopped at an estate, a gravel track continued on so I continued on too.
The hike was relatively easy going and flat which made a pleasant change from the normal wild landscapes I'd trekked over recent months. Just passing the estate I spotted a lone stag sauntering along on the other side of a river. It hadn't seen me and seemed completely oblivious to my presence. Deciding to take a break I took my pack off and sat down to watch as the stag walked along the river bank and turn towards a forest away from me. Its antlers were huge, I'd even say refined. Pondering, as I tended to alone with my thoughts I wondered how it coped walking between the trees of a tightly grown woodland. I had problems with just my backpack and I could only imagine what it must have been like for the deer.
With the stag now out of sight and a slight drizzle in the air I crossed a short bridge over the river and continued to follow the gravel track along the loch. I was still several days from the coast and with the weather conditions slowly deteriorating around me wasn't looking forward to sleeping under the tarp or having to pitch the tent up somewhere. Eventually I came across a sign which I hoped would at the very least give me some indication of where I was. The track at this point forked and the sign pointing in both directions to the same place, kinlochteagus, wherever that was. A sign beneath gave a little history about the track. It was called "bunavullin coffin road" a track used during the 19th century to carry coffins to a nearby burial ground. I'd been told about such tracks before and how the tradition of carrying the coffin of a resident by the parish still continues today although now for a much shorter distance and generally only through the main street of a village.
The rain was beginning to spit with consistency as I continued along the coffin road. The weather was turning drab and getting much colder. According to the weather app on my phone I could expect it to continue for at least a week, I was hoping it was wrong. Feeling tired and hungry I made the decision to stop for something to eat. This posed a problem though, if I had a meal ration now I would have to forgo one later that evening or run out of food a day earlier. Having an inadequate diet and well below my daily recommended let alone required calorie count was beginning to take its toll on my energy levels. If I wasn't careful it could potentially begin to affect my health too especially during the winter months.
I needed to eat, my body was screaming for it. Passing a small waterfall I stopped took out my battered saucepan and boiled some water to rehydrate a chicken tikka curry meal. Normally I would have indulged in custard but I'd had that after my evening meal the night before. I was eating more than I had done up until now. This was going to cause problems later on, it was inevitable.
As I sat on my pack refuelling quite surprisingly a four by four pulled up. Niel was a deer stalker, lovely chap. He was towing a trailer full of deer he'd culled that morning. All I saw though was venison steaks. After chatting for a short while, the rain getting heavier, Niel said that if I wanted a cuppa and something to eat he'd give me a lift to the estate. Unfortunately that was in the wrong direction so I had to decline. It was a lovely offer though but I didn't fancy hiking back afterwards especially now that the weather was turning bad.
Feeling slightly better after my brief lunch break I carried on along the track. I don't really recall the hike from there in too much detail I guess I went into a trance like state determined to try and cover as much ground as possible with what little time I had left. The light was already beginning to fade.
I guess I must have walked a few more miles though when I came upon three cottages. Feeling cold and wet and not wanting a Plockton incident again I decided to knock on the doors to see if I could take shelter for a short while just to dry out and warm up. There was no answer at the first two cottages but finding an open door on the last I went in, hoping it was a bothy or at the very least hoping that the owner would understand.
Inside was very tidy. There were several bedrooms and an open kitchen area. On a table by some large windows was a welcome book which on opening to the first page gave information about how visitors could make a voluntary contribution. The rest of the book contained information about the area, where to find wood, start the generator and even where a wood burning hot tub was located. If it was a bothy it was the most upper class bothy I'd ever visited. At first I wasn't too sure about the whole deal but as I continued reading it did seem as though the cottage was left open for visitors and an honesty policy was in place. I looked outside, it was still raining and would get even colder as the sun set. Inside I was dry and slowly warming up so I lit the wood burner and decided to stop just for the night.
As the evening drew in I felt hungry once again. It was a tough decision and one I would no doubt regret a few days later but I pulled out another meal pack and rehydrated it. Sweet n sour chicken in rice. It was delicious, well any food tastes delicious when you're hungry. I really didn't know when I'd be getting another resupply, jo had sent me the last box which I was now rapidly devouring. I also didn't know where I would find the next shop to get some emergency rice. The decisions of the day could spell disaster, I'd have to wait and see.
Relaxing in the cottage I pulled out my sleeping bag and lay it on the sofa. There were beds but it somehow didn't feel right sleeping in them. With the wood burner crackling away drying my clothes and keeping me warm I began to prepare myself mentally for some hard times ahead.
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