Again I woke around 7:45am, it was just getting light and I could see the stars slowly fading away. I got dressed and went to get some water from the nearby river and made up breakfast.
There was barely any light when I hit the track again but the further I hiked along it the lighter it became. Eventually after several miles of easy walking I came across another remote estate. I wanted to continue following the lochs edge but a huge fence and padlocked gate prevented me from going the way I'd wanted. Instead I had no choice but to follow the driveway towards the large house and follow the public right of way sign posts. Although I'd hoped to use hoolley to paddle across a small loch that joined loch sunart it appeared that I would instead have to make the long hike around it.
Passing the house the public right of way left the track and headed up into the hills adorned with trees and through a thick woodland. It was almost immediately obvious that this footpath wasn't a very popular one, in fact at times it was difficult to even distinguish a path at all. Trees had fallen and the overgrowth was over grown.
Making my way through the woods was a slow process, every so many yards I found myself having to stop to try and pick up the trail. Occasionally I was lucky and could spot a way marker ahead but most of the time I was looking for a the compacted ground left by previous walkers over the many years of use prior to its recent lack of popularity. As I continued I did wonder when the last person had set foot on this trail. There were signs of deer using the trail but no sign of man.
It then began to hail. I was pleased it wasn't raining as hail is more preferable and tends to bounce off your clothes as opposed to soaking in. The hail soon passed and I eventually emerged from the woods onto the top of the hills. Unfortunately though at this point I completely lost all indications of a footpath, public right of way or even the fientest sign of any trail.
Looking down from the hills and trying to determine which way to go next I noticed how calm the waters of the loch below me were. It had turned out to be a perfect day for a paddle. I just needed to make my way off the hills and back down to the shore below, then I would be able to use hoolley to paddle along the loch and possibly save me a couple of days hiking.
With the plan slowly forming in my head I proceeded across the marshes and over the rocky hills keeping the beach in sight and looking for a safe way to take me down towards the shore. I was up quite high with excellent views of the loch and where I'd hiked that morning. Needing to make my way down a 150 meter steep descent I noticed a deer trail following the path of a narrow stream and cascading waterfalls. It was going to be tough on my knees and I'd have to watch my footing but it was possible. The deer trail made life simpler although in places very slippery. It took a good twenty minutes of carefully following the trail and in places and to avoid small boggy patches in the marshy bank I found myself straddling across rocks petruding from beneath the grass and using ruts as stepps down the steeper parts. Nearing the bottom the ground began to level out. I could hear the sound of running water, the roar of a waterfall as the water plummeted over the rocks into pools before continuing on its way to the loch. As the sound got louder I began to wonder what my next challenge would be, had I made a mistake, was I going to be faced with a ravine or deep channel, would it be difficult or impossible to cross.
It was very much a relief when I finally came close enough to determine that the deer had solved the problems I'd invisaged. The deer trail that I'd followed had lead me to a small shallow crossing with an easy transgression to the other side and into a small woodland. I was still 20-30 meters above the shore but again the trail took me an easily walkable route between the trees, although extremely boggy with large deep puddles.
Now only 10 meters above the beach I easily made my way out of the woods and down to the stony shore. The weather was still good and I still had plenty of time to make a good paddle, the pieces of the plan were slowly falling into place. Reaching the waters edge I took my pack off. I needed to determine the state of the tides. It certainly wasn't high tide as the tide markings were some way from the water but was it coming in or going out. I took a small light coloured stone and placed on top of the dark coloured stones next to the calm ripple free water of the loch. I then began to pull hoolley from my pack and inflated her. About fifteen minutes had passed and hoolley was inflated, she was beginning to show a little wear and I noticed a small rip in the fabric near the cockpit behind the seat. It was nothing to worry about though and hadn't affected the integrity of the main hull. You could say it was superficial although it was something I would need to keep an eye on.
Before inserting the spray deck brace I checked the shoreline again, the stone was now submerged, the tide was coming in and judging by the distance the water had travelled I was able to estimate that I'd have several hours before it reached the high tide mark. The water though was getting close to my pack and other gear and had to be moved back while I finished getting hoolley ready for the paddle.
Climbing in I found myself once again struggling to get my boots in passed the day sack laying in the bottom of her hull, the eyelets catching up on the spray deck brace. As frustating as it is it was something it was something I had very little control but comfortably sat and eager to go I dug my paddle in and pushed off. As with all my crossings the blade cutting through the surface of the water and first satisfying stroke I felt at ease. Turning my concentration to the task ahead I kept close to the shore keeping an eye out for obstructions below and ahead the floating kelp providing me an advanced warning of the shallow rocks which were to be avoided at all costs.
The tide was still coming in but the current was weak along the edge of the loch. It wasn't long before I found myself looking directly at the small island I was to paddle behind, which was the safest route. The incoming tide was now of benefit to me as the current began pushing me round. Picking up speed and using less effort I was now able to relax and enjoy my short break from the tiring trip. Still focussed on the task at hand though I began to hear the sound of bagpipes.was I loosing my mind, surely here in a remote part of the wilderness there surely couldn't be a piper playing. I looked around trying to determine where the music was originating from. I stopped paddling and allowed the current to take over.
On small mound near the shore on the island, next to a small cottage, I could just make out a dark figure. A piper. I don't know if he knew I was there or if he'd simply been told by his wife to "get out of the bloody cottage with that thing" but for me it was a wonderful experience. The sound of the Highlands, a personal performance to an audience of one, me.
Satisfied I wasn't going mad I turned my attention back to navigating my way round the loch crossing from the mainland shores over to the shore of the Island. A safety measure, should anything go wrong I knew I wouldn't be far from dry land. Now beyond the channel and the pull of the current I continued to paddle and make my way round to the far side where I knew the current that had assisted me would now be working against my efforts. I'd have to rely on my understanding of the water its currents and effects of the incoming tides. I'd have to put my faith in my abilities and use the effects of the submerged world below to minimize the forces acting against my strokes in order to successfully land on the shore of a small bay I'd hoped I would find just out of sight but that I'd spotted on the satellite images cached on my phone.
Ferry gliding from the shores of the island across the central channel where the current was strongest back towards the main land I made very little forward progress. This I was expecting. The closer I got to land the less drag I felt on the hull of hoolley until I was able to break free.
Once again I making progress and heading in the right direction against the flow of the waters pushed in by the incoming tides. It was a good feeling although I still had to find a place to safely egress and land. The sun was still shining although much lower in the sky, time was getting on and I knew, although I didn't have a watch, that the sun would soon begin setting.
My eyes were now fixated on the rocky shore line. All I needed was a tiny bay. I kept paddling. The rocks floating passed me with every stroke. It was beginning to feel like maybe I'd misread the information contained within the images, had I mistaken the yellow and grey shores seen from space as bays when in fact they were rocky outcrops. Calmly I kept paddling. Ahead and to my left a found the small channel I was aiming for, the water was shallow here, maybe 5-6 feet deep. I didn't fancy getting wet but felt confident that eventually the bed would find the surface. Kelp was also floating on the surface, a mat of dark reds and browns. These were good signs. I paddled a little further, the kelp scraping beneath the hull as hoolley glided over. Then I saw it. A small bay, possibly an old boat launch, an archaic slipway of mud and shingle. Further inland an old tire hung from a tree and beyond that an old white cottage.
I turned hoolley in and floated her closer to the shore using my paddle dug into the stony bed to help guide her between the rocks to a place I could climb out. It was a good feeling. I hadn't been wrong, I'd landed exactly where I had planned.
Just up from the slipway, which was extremely muddy, was an old derelict cottage. I pulled hoolley up out of the water over the kelp and away from the rising tide then bit by bit I lugged my pack, daysack, paddles and hoolley up to the cottage and onto the grass in front.
Being very conscious of the sun now so low in the sky it had begun to disappear behind the hills I packed hoolley away, attached the daysack and slung my pack on. My fingers numb from the cold water and frisky yet gentle breeze from the loch.
Walking around the cottage I found a track leading off and along the waters edge. It seemed reasonable to follow it as far as I could and I hoped I would find somewhere sheltered and warm to spend the night. The further I walked away from the cottage the better the track became, it didn't look like it was heavily used and I didn't expect to see anyone for a good couple of days.
I'd had quite a pleasant hike but the air was getting chilly as I continued on. Turning a corner and following a bend in the track the ground became more boggy. Between looking at my feet I lifted my head to see where I waa heading. Up on a small mound I saw what looked like an unusual sculpture. As got closer I could make out the roof of some kind of building, maybe a barn. I was quite surprised to say the least, surely nobody could be living out this far.
The track took me around behind the sculpture and building revealing a small cottage alongside. I went round to the front of the cottage where I found a picnic table so I took my pack off and placed it down so that I could see if I could find anyone. A tree in front of the cottage was adorned with objects, the type of things a new age hippy or artist would hang. Knocking at the front door I had no reply. I turned and went to the other building thinking that maybe someone would be there. From the outside it looked like stables with a courtyard. As I walked into the courtyard I immediately realised it was something else. There were glass doors on each side and once again began to summize, a hippy retreat maybe.
Knocking on the first door I came to I realised it was unlocked. I opened the door and called out, again. Still no reply. My eyes panned around the room. To my right there were two beds, in front of me a table and to the right a wood burner and small open kitchen. From the kitchen was a corridor that went back and appeared to turn the corner linking to the rest of the building. I stepped in and once again called out and once again the reply was silence. Had I come across another private bothy. It certainly looked like it.
Following the corridor I went in search of life. At the far end and around the corner was another glass door leading to what appeared to be a work area. Posters on the walls describing different lichen, various garden tools laying on benches. At the far end of the room I could see reels of cables, soldering equipment and computer peripherals. Beyond that was another door this time with wire mesh and no glass. It was beginning to feel like a scene from the tv series "lost". I headed over and peered through the mesh. Now this was interesting, to my right was a large array of batteries, a warning sign taped to a board of electrical relays, dials and switches. To my left computer screens, microphone and numerous home made control panels. A mad scientists lair maybe. I went in to take a closer look around.
As I inspected the electronic equipment I then began to realise that the sculpture I'd seen was in fact not an attemp at art at all but possibly an antenna or high tech wind turbine experiment. I'd seen similar designs before in science magazines and in science fiction films. A large distribution board had trip switches labeled, one indicated a power supply to the bothy, at least I knew now that I had been right. Not wanting to disturb anything I turned to head back to the adjoining bothy and back to the courtyard.
Back outside and across from me was another door, again with a large pane of glass. I went over to peer through. There were plans on the wall and a computer on the desk. In the centre of the room was a film projector and two leather sofas to my left. This was a truly unusual place and again the door was unlocked but nobody around.
The sun was now beginning to set and the temperature dropping rapidly. Deciding to stop the night I went back to my pack to get my empty water bottles to fill them from the stream that I could hear running nearby. Upon approaching the stream I spotted a strange wooden structure, as I got closer it became apparent that it was a hydro electric generator.
Returning to the cottage and bothy with the light almost entirely gone I grabbed my pack and went inside the bothy to settle in and shelter. My boots were soaking from the days romp which unusually I was particularly pleased about, it meant I could try the new waterproof socks I'd been sent. I rummaged through my pack and pulled out the zip lock bag they were in, dried off my feet and put them on. Time would tell if they lived up to my expectations.
I was now feeling hungry so I boiled up some water and hydrated a meal ration and brewed a mug of tea. I was now almost completely empty of food except for a breakfast meal. Knowing drimnin was nearby and still feeling hungry I decided to have the smooth oats and raspberries ration too. Whilst opening the packet, my hands still cold I fumbled, dropping the packet and mostly emptying the contents on the floor. Gutted, I had no choice but to obey the 3 second rule. Scooping up what I could and picking out the grass and dirt as I went I managed to save about half of the pack. It was a little gritty but being hungry I still enjoyed every mouth full.
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