It waa still dark as I joined the employees of the quarry for breakfast. Without light to walk by I had no choice but to wait so I stopped for a natter.
It wasn't until about 9am that there was enough light to even begin to contemplate the journey ahead of me that day. Before setting off though I popped into the site office to say goodbye to gwen and ian who'd put me up for the night. Fascinated by my attemp we discussed the route I was to follow from the quarry and what I could expect further along. I told them of the problems I was having with my boots and was immediately offered a new pair courtesy of the onsite stores. Gwen and I took a land rover and head over to collect them. As we drove round I was given an impromptu tour of the works. The quarry is the largest in Europe and not just Britain as I'd previously thought, with over 9 million tones leaving the site every year. Arriving back at the office with a nice new pair of leather waterproof steel toe capped boots and a dayglo orange vest to help me stabd out better whilst hiking the works track out from the quarry and to bring attention to me on the roads ahead for safety reasons gwen kindly offered to collect my prescription I'd been given in Kilchoan and leave it at the rnli boathouse in oban. An extremely kind gesture I thought.
With the wind behind me I set off making sure I didn't cause any trouble for the works traffic, especially the enormous diggers. Reaching the far end of the quarry, which took about half an hour I met with the first obstacle of the day, a burn in spate. The water was thundering down from the hillside towards the sea with great force. It was deep with an unstable rocky bed. Looking around I found myself having trouble finding a way to cross and almost decided to turn back. Testing different locations along the gravel banks I did however eventually find a narrow section where I could make a leap to the otherside. It was a little risky but I felt I could just about manage it. With a strong push off I went for it, my right boot getting slightly submerged beneath the cold water. I could feel the tingle through my waterproof socks, the water had breached the top of the boot and a little had seeped in. It doesn't matter how waterproof your boots are if it goes over the top your feet are going to get wet.
There was a light drizzle in the air and even with four tshirts, two jumpers and three jackets on I could feel the bite of the cold air. On the other side of the stream I was able to pick up a reasonable trail which took me to the shores. I began to soon realise that the day was going to be a tough one when every few hundred yards I found myself stood on the banks of more burns in spate, each one wider than the last. On most of the occasions I headed towards the rough seas where the burns fanned out and the water levels reduced. Not all to a trickle though and quite often still several inches deep.
The tide was now very obviously coming in which pushed me up onto the higher ground and I found myself having to follow deer trails over large rocks and small cliffs. The wind was gradually increasing and on a couple of occasions I had to be extra vigilant with my footing as my pack got short and sharp gusts blowing me forward and off balance. This was the reason I'd hoped I would be further south and beyond the complexity of the Scottish west coast and its infamous weather fronts.
The weather was beginning to deteriorate rapidly and the temperature dropping to uncomfortable levels. Even with all the layers I was dressed in I could feel the cold water against my skin. After a mile or so crossing over the rocks exposed to the elements I was able to get back down to the shore but still I had to cross the powerful forces of the water descending from the hills. It was a tough day.
Passing some ruins of an old house, which I later discovered had been used as target practice for the midget subs used during the war, I felt the need to investigate up close. Beginning to turn to head over and after a few steps I decided to carry on. There was very little shelter and with my time running out I knew I had to get to the top of the loch before the light was too dim to locate suitable shelter for the night.
A little further on I picked up what was quite obviously a man made track on the shore, large boulders lining the way. I followed the track as best as I could but in places and where the track was located so close to the water the tide engulfed it submerging it below the angry waves being blown up onto the beach. Crossing another spating stream and although I headed towards the shoreline and the shallowest part it was still deep enough to seep into my boots. There was no escaping it my feet were getting wet. Reaching the far side I headed back up and away from the water and onto the track once more.
A heavy mist had now completely engulfed the mull making it almost impossible to work out where exactly I was and how much further I had sstill to go before I reached the mouth of the loch, my destination for the day. As I continued to follow the track the mist thinned and I could see the faint outline of hills ahead. It was still raining although not hard its persistence was such that it had penetrated my gortex and I could feel the dampness through both pairs of trousers I was wearing underneath.
Reaching the mouth of the loch I was able to finally turn inland and begin the hike towards a small collection of cottages and houses. The days hike was almost complete, the light was fading and I turned my attention to seeking out somewhere to stay for the night. Now able to see the far side of the loch I could make out a small woodland, it was growing on a slight slope and I hoped I'd be able to set up the tarp.
Reaching the first cottage on this side I noticed that a wooden hut to its side. The door was held closed with a large stone. Beginning to feel the cold and damp I decided to see if anyone was home. Looking through the windows of the cottage it was apparent the cottage was used as a holiday retreat. The bed was unmade and the cottage uninhabited. I went back to the hut and let myself in eager to make a mug of hot chocolate and reheat a ration meal to warm me up.
As I sat waiting for the water to boil the wind began to thunder around the hut and I could hear the rain beating against the roof and sides. Conscious I'd arranged to call iain once I'd reached the head of the loch I switched on my phone and looked for a mobile signal. No matter which way I turned though the only message my phone would give was "no service", I had always thought I'd have problems getting a signal along the north coast but hadn't anticipated not being able to connect along the west coast.
Pulling up a garden chair that was stored in the hut I removed my jackets and hung them up to drip dry before sipping on my hot chocolate and ration. Immediately I began to feel warmer sitting in the dark shed with only my head torch to see around me.
Listening to the sound of the wind battering the wooden panels outside I began to realise that to attempt to continue with the harsh weather pending and due to get worse would be crazy if not extremely dangerous.
Tempted to call it a day and remain in the hut for the night to dry out I grabbed my wet jackets and slung my pack on. Pushing back the door the bite of the cold air hit me and I stepped out. Looking up at the sky I tried to estimate the time and more importantly how long I had left before it would get dark once more. Guessing the time was gone 3pm I knew I could possibly get a couple of miles if I put my head down and stomped.
I left the hut and began the hike to get me to the other side of the loch. The gravel lane was a pleasant change to the rocky shores and boggy track I'd had to negotiate earlier that day. It didn't take me long before I was stood at a ford looking at another river in spate. It was deep and the water was running fast. If I waded across I knew I'd get wet, it was at least waist deep. Looking around I couldn't see a footbridge so I went towards the loch hoping it would get shallower but still too deep I decided to turn back and head for the hut where I'd at least be sheltered from the cold. I had to make plans and not risk my health and avoid hypothermia. Figuring my best hope would be to wait it out over night and hope the water levels would drop enough to allow a safer crossing the following day. Now concerned I was out of contact with anyone and I was unable to contact iain as I had arranged the day before I hoped he wouldn't be worried and contact emergency services.
I was about half way along the lane and nearing the cottage when I heard a car horn. I stopped and turned my head to look across the loch to see a car flashing its lights. When I hadn't called iain had indeed begun to worry and had driven to the location we'd agreed to meet for a coffee. I waved to acknowledge I'd seen him, thankfully I was wearing the dayglo vest I'd been given at the quarry or he would never have seen me. At least now there was a shimmer of hope. I headed back to the river and waited as I saw his car drive along the loch and towards me. The wind was picking up once more and the rain began to fall heavily. I waited at the ford hoping iain could bring the car closer, unfortunately the lane was cut off further back by another spating river, too deep for him to drive through. Luckily a footbridge allowed iain to walk over from his car and didn't take him long before he was stood across from me.
Iain had brought with him a walking stick, using the stick to help him balance he was able to cross safely and meet me. It was great seeing him stood infront of me. We then crossed back, iain first followed by myself both of us using his stick to assist the crossing. My feet were now soaking and the cold sent shivers through my bones.
Arriving at iains car I was able to remove my boots and climb into the warmth of the passenger seat and tell my story. Deciding that continuing on that evening was probably a bad idea iain offered to drive me back to his cottage where I could get a hot bath and take shelter until the weather passed.
No comments:
Post a Comment