10th -12th January

10th Jan day 311

Starting at kilmelford I headed off to make my way around loch shuna. My plan for the day was to head to the marina at the mouth of the loch by the road then follow the coast until I reached the point of the peninsula where I would camp up either in some woods or find an open barn or building to shelter in. It was a simple plan and although a fair distance I felt sure I'd be able to make it as long as the skies remained clear and the weather held off. As I walked along the road I was able to see the damage caused by the storm that had hit the west coast of Scotland the night before. Trees were snapped like tooth picks.

The weather was being particularly indecisive althoughit was quite reasonable when I'd set off sleat and hail followed a short sunny break and 20 minute snow storm. They say in Scotland that if you don't like the weather wait 20 minutes.

I arrived at the marina around lunchtime. From the marina I took a track to an old path that, although was overgrown with trees, would take me down to the coastline and the start of the afternoons mission. Trees had fallen across the old footpath making progress hard to the bay and pier.

Having to climb over rocks and boulders was quite a normal exercise whilst trekking the British coast and today being a normal day this was no exception. It was however somewhat gusty and the sea was far from calm. As i continued to follow the coastline clambering over the rocks i found myself sprayed by fine salty droplets as waves rolled in with tremendous force.

The wind was exceptionally strong in fact which made keeping my balance a little difficult in places, my pack once again like the sail on a yacht. The going was hard but it wasn't tough and finding an old cottage i took a short breather out of the elements sheltering behind a small wooden shed.

Leaving the  cottage i headed back to the rocky shore determined to make it all the way to the point before nightfall. The wind was proving hard to walk against and new rubber trousers were tough to walk in.

Attempting to climb a small rock wall but unable to get my leg high enough I slipped. My face planting firmly into a tuft of grass. How I never broke my nose I will never know. Finding suitable clothing has proved difficult and something I had yet to master.

i continued on along the coast through a small  woodland with cliffs to my left and somewhat  boggy underfoot. I emerged to an exposed landscape as lightening struck twice out to sea. Both times i counted. First thunder took  two seconds  and the second one and a half. The storm was getting closer.

As I continued around the coast it suddenly darkened as the clouds obscured the light of day. With only a few more miles to go I put my head torch on and set off. Night fell quickly and I was unable to see very far I had to make the decision to find water and shelter.  Thankfully water wasn't too far away and I could make out the outline of trees across the field from me. I headed over. By the time I got there it was pitch black so finding a little shelter I decided to stop and set up camp.

Tieing a rope between two trees and securing my tarp to the base of five more I climbed beneath and began boiling the water I'd collected to make myself something to eat and a mug of hot chocolate. The wind began picking up and from nowhere a heavy shower of hail fell around me. It was getting extremely cold now and if I wasn't careful I'd find myself in a dangerous situation with the chance of hypothermia and possibly frost bite.

Beneath the tarp the ground was lumpy and rocky. It was unlike any camp I'd experienced til then and far from perfect. Unable to lay out on a level ground I curled up into a small ball to try and keep warm. As the air got colder I could feel pins and needles in my toes. My sweaty legs threatening to turn to ice. I needed to keep myself warm throughout the night while I lay there waiting for day to break. I unrolled my bivibag and pulled out my sleeping bag. Removing my boots and waterproof rubber trousers I struggled to climb in. My new jacket although warm was cumbersome and made moving around in the confines of the tarp and sleeping bag. Shuffling around I eventually managed to cover myself up and almost instantly felt my body warming to a comfortable temperature. Wedging my backside into a divet on the slope and using my pack to prop my head I slowly became more comfortable and eventually drifted off to sleep.

It was nearly 1am when I woke. A little confused and disoriented I ventured out from beneath the tarp to water the garden. The wind had died down now and the air felt warmer although still cold. Looking around I inspected my make shift home. Everything was still in place and had held up well. Only another 8 more hours and I'd be able to continue with the trek and reach the end of the point, my intended destination for the day.

11th Jan day 312

It was a dreary and damp morning when I finally awoke under the tarp. The wind had died down considerably so I made myself up a breakfast and coffee before collapsing camp to head off again to find the point of the peninsula.

With rain still pouring down and the wind side swiping my pack I figured it would be a tough and dangerous challenge to attempt to follow the shoreline. Opting for a more sheltered and safer route I followed a track from the far side of the bay up to a tarmac drive taking me passed what looked like a modern high rise building but I think it was probably once a manor house or castle.

Following the road down to the car park at the point I took a short breather in the remains of what I can only assume was a ticket or passenger hut for a ferry that may or may not have left the point to destinations unknown.  To be honest I have no idea what the building was for but the description seemed to fit.

It was soon time for me to make a move again and brave the weather. My intention was to get to the head of the loch passed ardfern where I hoped I would meet up with iain once again.

Heading off towards the very tip of the peninsula I had to cross boggy ground in appalling conditions.  Extremely grateful for my new wet weather gear I felt warm and dry. Unable to go any further south I followed the coastline keeping the sea to my right until I reached the coastal road to ardfern. The road now as close to the water as I could possibly hope the following walk was easy. Enjoying the views and passing near to a shipwreck lodged a few yards from the shore I soon saw the small village of ardfern ahead.

Arriving at the village pub I popped in for a hot chocolate and was pleasantly surprised when iain walked through the doors. Sitting enjoying our hot drinks I told iain of the previous days adventures. Offering to take my pack to the head of the loch for me I arranged to meet the dynamic duo a little later.

Outside the weather hadn't improved at all but with the hot chocolate coursing through my veins I set off determined to at least get to the top of the loch before nightfall,  5pm. It only took me an hour os so to reach the junction and an unusual sculpture of an enormous hand clenched with index finger pointing in the direction I'd just come from. Despite the challenging night and difficult weather I felt the past two days had been quite successful and although I suffered great hardship and little sleep I enjoyed the challenges presented to me.

12th Jan day 313

Leaving the enormous finger I headed along the main road expecting torrential rain and high winds. With occasional hail showers and forceful gusts I wanted to get as far as I could. The road seemed to be the safest route I could take although as the day progressed and the weather calmed I couldn't help but wonder if a coastal hike would have been possible. Deciding it would have been ridiculous to turn back and attempt it especially after six miles hiking I carried on. I don't think I'd ever been this far from the waters edge during the whole trek and certainly for such a long time.

Arriving at Kilmartin I was able to follow a well marked footpath away from the noise of the cars and lorries hurtling along. I hadn't walked far before I came across what appeared to be a pile of large stones. I'd seen plenty of these piles along my journey but never really knew what they were. To be honest I thought that farmers had simply gathered them from the fields to make room for their cattle and sheep or to grow crops. I couldn't have been more wrong. These unassuming huge piles of stone were in fact ancient burial sites. Over the following miles I would come across three sites the first being the most complete with a hatch allowing visitors to descend into the chamber beneath. As I entered the cairn down the steep steps I was confronted with a small rectangular grave absent of its previous tenant. The body would have been placed into a fetal position to rest and a large stone with bronze axe heads laid on top. I felt like indiana jones.

The second cairn was in considerably worse condition to the first with the stones scattered about the site and only one visible burial chamber, much the same size as the first. The third tomb was still in reasonable condition and I was able to drop down inside to take a closer look.

Continuing on with my quest to conquer the British coast albeit a fair distance from the water I arrived at another ancient burial site. This one was very different to the first three and consisted of two stone circles.  The larger of the two were adorned by large standing stones with a grave in the centre. As I looked around I realised that if I'd hiked the shore then I wouldn't have come across these fascinating relics of our ancestors. How many other interesting sites had I missed along the way.  What would I have come across if I'd ventured more inland.  I guess I'd never really know.

I still had plenty of miles to cover when I found myself at a junction. Without a map I really had no idea which way to head. Taking a chance I decided to turn left and without the sea to aid my navigation I knew all I had to rely on was hope, plain and simple.

It was coming up to 4pm when I I came across a rather apt sign post the wording reading "long walk" although I was pretty sure it was pointing the wrong way. The sun was now beginning to set but I'd felt lucky that the majority of the day was dry although a tad windy. Walking another mile or so I spotted across some fields for the first time that afternoon the sea way off in the distance. At least I now knew I was heading roughly the right way.

It only took me an hour or so following the incredibly straight road to crinan swing bridge, my final destination for the day.