4th - 9th January

4th Jan day 305

Leaving the Atlantic bridge i crossed the muddy shoreline towards a field, it was a lovely sunny day. I'd felt a little nervous that morning after chatting with iain the night before while sipping on a pint of orange juice and lemonade in the pub opposite. Even though I'd spent several weeks in his company chatting long into the night about my experiences he still didn't really know me and what my true ablities were. My nerves soon settled though and it didn't take me long to get my head back into the game.

Unable to make my way directly along the waters edge i diverted myself up into the shallow hills forcing my way through the dead foliage and avoiding the saturated pits of mud. On the other side i was confronted with a thickly packed woodland segregated fromthe fields by a small rusting wire fence. Instead of following the fence inland i decided to take a chance and headed back towards the water. The gamble paid off. Hopping over the fence and with the tide out i was fortunate enough to be able to make my way in front of the woods and rocky shores to a slipway where i could climb back up to grassy banks and the site of some old ruins.

It didn't seem to matter how many derelict stone buildings i came across i was always fascinated by the forgotten history behind them. As i wandered among the remains of the old buildings i pondered the stories they were concealing. I wondered what family life was like and pictured in my mind children running around outside, mother baking bread and father tending to his sheep. The laughter of the children, a brother and sister,  filled the air and father mumbling curses as he attempted to inspect his flock. Mother was content and humming to herself as she watched her children enjoying the fresh air and wide open spaces.

Further along and beyond the fields i could see a formidable section of coast with steep slopes packed with trees, the closer I got the more daunting the prospect of having to negotiate the terrain. As i reached the start of my next challenge i came upon an  old path. It was barely recognisable and had obviously been forgotten over the years.

The footpath had been claimed by the forest, trees and debris covering the way. I knew it was a path though, it felt man made and two lines of carefully placed rocks running parallel to each other guided me along the slopes deep into the woods. I  wondered how far it would stretch and if it would take me the full distance. At times it was hard o distinguish where the path once lay and in some places mud slides completely obscured it. It wasn't difficult joining the sections that remained and added a small amount of excitement  to this small adventure.

Emerging on the far side of the woods I felt good knowing I was probably the first person in a very  long time to make the walk. The landscape somewhat opened up the further away from the sloped i walked and seeing a large cave in the cliffs to my left I hoped it would add a further  unexpected adventure to the day but alas it was shallow. A mere recess which from afar looked like a gaping abyss. The east coast had provided me with many caves to explore but i was feeling let down  by the caves I had discovered along the west coast. Deciding to take a short breather i sat myself down on a large boulder and immersed myself in the beauty before me.

From the cave i continued to follow the coast passing a bay overlooked by a grand castle. Iain had asked me to pop in to pass on a new years message to the owner but after knocking on the door and nobody appeared i decided to continue on my way. The next mile or so was easy, a track led me towards the head land and my next challenge of the day.

At the end of the track i approached a small workshop. Donald was a fisherman and while he was landward bound the workshop was where he spent his days. Mostly maintaining his boats but often enjoying the views having spent many a weekend camped up on the grass just outside. As with many west coasters Donald after exchanging greetings invited me inside for a coffee and a chat. Discussing the way ahead i discovered that deer had left a trail which potentially could get me around the headland as long as the tide was out. Again it looked like local knowledge would assist my efforts completing my challenge.

After being pointed in the direction of the start of the trail i headed off. Looking ahead i knew that at some point the way would become a tad hairy in places. Taking a deep breath and strategically planning ahead i followed the trails along the slopes towards cliffs that would eventually challenge my abilities to their limits as well as my nerves.

My  first impressions when I eventually made it to the bottomof the cliffs was "ok, no problem. As long as the tide is far enough out i can make it ", it wasn't. Climbing down to the kelp strewn boulders i peered ahead.  The tide was coming in and had drowned the way forward. Too deep to wade across and around the headland i started summizing alternative routes climbing onto a narrow ledge to get a better feel for the task ahead. There were places to grab as handholds and reasonable places for my feet but the rock was damp and slippery. I made a couple of attempts but deciding that once committed there was no going back and just one false move I'd at the very least be getting wet i turned back, a little disappointed. I was still wearing the steel toe capped boots I'd been given at the glensanda quarry. Fine for working in a quarry but not so good for climbing rock faces. Taking one last look i decided the risk of injury was too great and headed back to the grassy slopes to look for another alternative way to get over.

Looking up the slope from the bottom i thought i could see a potential way to the top. It meant a fairly easy scramble to what climbers refer to as the crux, the key to a successful ascent, the hardest part of the climb. Stood beneath the crux i looked up. It seemed possible, a narrow but manageable rocky incline. I just needed to get passed about four feet of wild grasses and tree roots.

Digging beneath the fauna i sought out something to grab to haul myself up. I needed secure places for my hands and feet.  It was steep, very steep and the fall was great. By great i mean one hell of a long way down. Not feeling too confident about the stability of the rocks or security of the roots once again i turned back and retreated to a safe ledge to reasses the route. Deciding that once again the risk of failure with, this time, potentially fatal results was too great i continued back a short way to seek out a third alternative route over the top of the headland.

I didn't need to go too far before i spotted it. A long scramble to the top. Yes it was steep but it wasn't too steep and wouldn't require any serious or technical ability to achieve. The risks were low and the rewards would be fair. It was at least worthy of a crack at it.

Reaching the top was simpler than I'd anticipated and picking up a sheep trail near the top made the scramble that much easier. The trail followed the headland round a foot or so from the edge and after a short walk dropped down into the next bay.

From the bay the hike was to be quite relaxing and i was able to enjoy the views. Finding an old quarry  track that passed an unremarkable lime kiln i continued to follow the shore into some woods.

The track eventually ended but I continued stumbling on a deer grazing unaware of my presence. I stopped to watch for a while before heading off once more further into the woods. On the far side I found myself back at the shore line again which I was easily able to follow. I wasn't far from the rendezvous point where I was sure iain was waiting for me, probably worrying about me as he seemed to often do. Obviously he still hadn't worked out that no matter what I would always pull through.

Coming across a gravel track that led up towards a tarmac road I hiked up to see if I was were we had agreed to meet. I'd actually managed to go further than expected so gave iain a quick call to let him know. A few minutes later I heard the sound of his vw speeding along. As he pulled up I could see by his face he had been worried once again.

5th Jan day 306

Outside the wind had begun to pick up again and the sky blocked out by a thick vale of white cotton clouds. I'd checked the weather forecasts the night before and was expecting heavy rain and potentially a day or two of storms and strong gales. I was pleased with the progress I'd made during the previous days so decided to take a couple of days out to catch up on my blogs and relax. After all the coast wasn't going anywhere and i was massively behind schedule anyway. Iain wasn't feeling well either, man flu. Digging out some pain killers from my pack i dosed him up and made sure the stubborn old man rested, although he fought it all the finally falling asleep after I'd told him some of my more boring stories and anecdotes.

6th Jan  day 307

Woke with a coffee by iain although it had been raining, by the time I'd got dressed it was quite Clement with large gaps of blue amongst whispering fluffy clouds. My muscles were hurting though. The break over Christmas had taken its toll on me and made me soft. Deciding not to over do it having learnt the hard way at the beginning of the trek i decided another day off wouldn't hurt.

7th Jan day 308

A huge weather front was now being predicted by the forecasters. Torrential rain, extremely high winds and hazardous conditions were now threatening to hit the west coast. I'd not planned to be in Scotland at this time of year. In fact I'd planned to be finished by November. Without the right gear heading out to conquer what remained of the coast would have been suicidal. Something i am not.

Iain was now returning to his normal happy self and admitted he hadn't had anyone look after him whilst ill before let alone treating him like a sick child, which he was. To show his gratitude he insisted we visited the chandlery in oban to see if we could find a jacket and trousers that would remain waterproof and provide good protection from the extreme weather conditions of the west coast. Figuring that fishermen would have to work day in and day out under these and possibly worse conditions it seemed a fair assumption that the outer clothing they wore would potentially suit a hiker attempting to walk the coastline. I must admit the theory seemed solid enough and the cost ofthe clothing would be considerably less than that of designer brands such north face and berghaus.

8th jan day 309

The weather front was now approaching the shores of Scotland just as the forecasts had predicted. Although deep down i wanted to continue my journey i knew the sensible choice was to stay put for another day.

I'd ordered another pair of salomon boots a few days earlier after learning the limitations of the steel toe caps and as i already knew and were comfortable with the make was happy when they arrived. In comparison they were extremely light and putting them on felt snug and comfortable.

As predicted later that day after a short snow storm incredible gales hit the area and i was pleased to be out of the weather and in the warmth and dry.

9th Jan day 310

With the storm now passed it was time to get back to the trek. From where iain and i had held up whilst waiting for the storms to pass it took almost a full day to get to ardfern which was near where I'd left the trek the few days earlier. The storm had taken its toll on this village and completely knocked out the power for miles around.

By the time we arrived it was dark so I suggested iain took a room at the inn and I'd sleep on the floor ready for an early start the following day.