As I opened my eyes and looked out at the bay it became apparent that the crossing I'd hoped to make in hoolley wouldn't be possible. The wind was still strong and large waves were rolling up from the sea. My shelter had taken a battering too. Rubbing against the branches during the night had ripped a hole the size of a tennis ball.
Packing my kit away was tough with in the confines of the shelter but I managed none the less. I headed over to the shore to see if I could continue along it but with the winds howling over the rocks and waves spraying into the air I turned back towards the ruins and looked up the valley to plot an alternative route. A stream that was trickling contently the night before was now a raging torrent breaking away from its channel and running towards me down the slope I was to follow. The ground was saturated making it hard work and slow progress as I followed sheep tracks towards a dip between two peaked ridges.
Passing between the peaks felt the full force of mother nature having a tantrum, the wind knocking me back as i pushed my way up. Reaching the top I was then faced with a steep descent down the far side. I could see a road below which in itself was quite a blessing. Before i began my way down i sought shelter beneath a tree a against a rock recess.
Catching my breath i looked down at the wet and muddy banks water was gushing down small channels washing away soil to reveal the rock bed that formed the hills i had negotiated.
Setting off i had to be careful of my footing. The mud was so wet it had lost its cohesion and unableto support my weight let alone the weight of my pack as well often slid into a mush letting go of the hill it had been clung to. Steadily and with only a couple of sliding moments i eventually made it down towards the fields at the bottom and across to the solid tarmac of the road.
Turning right on to the road i began to head towards the top of the peninsula, a mere mile away. The wind was relentless though and for every wo steps i made forward i was pushed back a step on occasion, more. It was a fruitless effort. I was expending great energy and not making any desernable progress. It was quite hopeless. Deciding it was hopeless trying to force my way against the weather i turned my back to the wind and allowed myself to be pushed along the road. Such was the power of the continuous gusts I was now finding myself having to steady my balance as i was whipped from side to side. Being pushed along the road was no fun either. I have no idea how strong the wind was but at timesi was literally moving at a running pace, my knees hurting having to use them to slow the pace down.
It was long before i climbed the hill to Tayvallich. I'd covered the same distance in just a couple of hours that the previous day had taken me all afternoon to battle through. As i reached the crest of the hill and looked down upon the village, without any kind of warning, the wind dropped. A deadly silence, no movement. All i could hear was the pants of an exhausted hiker gasping for air.
Ahead of me the water in the bay was beginning to calm and the sun was breaking through gaps in the clouds that had shrouded the area. Calmly i walked towards the village reflecting on the adventures I'd had the past 24 hours. It was hard to grasp the fact that the night had been so tough and almost a fight for survival.
Walking through the village felt surreal and in need of a rest and charge for my phone I stopped at the village inn ordered a hot chocolate and sat at a table next to the artificial gas powered wood burner. Gazing out across the bay i noticed a rib floating by, up turned and still attached to its trailer. A bit beyond that another boat sitting low in the water gradually sinking and soon to be the property of davey jones and home to a variety of marine life.
Connected to the inns wifi i decided to check in with Facebook and let everyone know I was safe and to upload the photos I'd taken during previous day. Checking my private messages i replied individually letting the recipient's know all was well and that they shouldn't worry i noticed a message from iain. He, being new to life on the trek, had been concerned about my needs for suitable clothing to help me stay safe during the winter months along the west coast of Scotland and had bought me a couple of items I'd mentioned would help me completely the challenge. Although being 102 miles away back in Lochaline he insisted he come to Tayvallich personally deliver the goods and was keen to spend a night wild camping. During my short although by trek standards,long stay over Christmas with iain I'd suggested he joined me one night to get a feel of what it was like. Now seemed as good a time as any for me to share the experience.
I carried on to head of loch, it was an easy hike following the loch along the road. As night fell i sought out a nice place to camp with running water and plenty if cover from the weather among the trees. Hoping iain wouldn't pass by i hung my life jacket on a tree and waited.
I'd been settled for a couple of hours when eventually iain pulled up. He hadn't seen my sign but thankfully saw the head torch shining in the darkness. It had been quite a drive for him, about 120 miles, with him he'd brought gifts. Socks, gloves and an mp3 player.
Showing iain the camp site we began setting up his enormous tarp and setup up his camp bunk. That night we sat and chatted while nipper darted around in the woods exploring these unfamiliar surroundings.
As i drifted of to sleep in the comfort of my sleeping bag i wondered how iain and nipper would find wild camping, something they'd never experienced before.
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