16th - 21st January

16th January day 317

The night was as cold as the kiss of death. Even though I was tucked up in my four season sleeping bag that claimed to be good to -22 and wearing all my clothes i still felt like I was sleeping in a cold storage freezer. It was light when i woke and worried for iain i foregoed my usual ritual to see if he was ok and had been comfortable that night.

Heading over to iains mansion i could see him already packing away. Very my best cheery voice i called over "good morning", there was no reply. It was strikingly obvious that this man who'd been a stalker from his entire life who'd spent hours at a time lying on the cold ground crawling through puddkes and mud had truly felt the stark reality of living on the trek. "How did you sleep?"  I asked in a more tentative voice knowing what the reply would be even before iain opened his mouth.

As we continued to pack away iains camp he told me how he'd felt the cold and hardly slept a wink. Nipper had been restless and his camp bunk, that I'd coveted during the night was uncomfortable and while on uneven ground had tipped over ejecting him and his duvet onto the ground in the early hours of the morning. Having given up iain had retreated to his car for warmth exchanging the uncomfortable  bunk with an uncomfortable passenger seat.

With everything relocated to the roadside i mmade tea and coffee for us both and rehydrated a breakfast ration. Iain politely declined a ration in favour of cooking up some bacon he'd brought along for us both.

With iain now back at his car fighting to keep his camping stove alight i packed away my kit and headed off to attempt to restore morale. Chatting about the night and sharing my discomfort with iain helped a little. Continuing to pack all the gear away a brief hail shower covered the ground with small balls of ice. It then began to snow, not really the perfect way to start the day by any stretch of the imagination.

With very little said and iain not really letting on how the harsh conditions of the night and lack of sleep had affected him he handed me a bacon roll and a mug of coffee. With our bellies satisfied morale amongst the troops improved greatly and soon laughter and jokes about the ordeal began to fly.

It was soon that our focus returned to the trek and although I refused to take any maps with me i showed iain my plans for making progress that day. It was to be quite a hike covering at least  12 miles before dark taking me to a cave I'd been told about while staying at the oban caravan park. St Columba's cave was situated near the shore at the head of coalisport loch and without the additional weight of my pack I felt confident I'd be able to meet iain at the beginning of a two mile  track which crossed a baron landscape ending up near the cave.

Iain took my kit in his car while I followed the   road. The hike was particularly easy and despite the wintery start to the day the sun shone down on me. Things were definitely beginning to get easier for me, the road was reasonably flat and there were places i was able to walk the shoreline taking me away from the road.

Along the way i enjoyed the views  and peace and quiet giggling to myself about the night before and the cold we'd had to endure sleeping beneath the tarps, the uncomfortable bumpy floor and iains rickety old camp bunk. Closing my eyes i could see him rolling out of his bed still restrained by his sleeping bag.

By the time I'd reached castle sween i began to be aware of the time.  The castle was set away from the shore just a short distance but i still had a fair way still to go. The castle was supposed to have been were i was to land in hoolley from Dana island the day before if the weather had been more forgiving. I wanted to explore the castle up close but ultimately had to make the decision to pass it by in order to collect my pack and still make it to my destination before dark.

Arriving at the agreed meeting place, the end of the road, i felt the temperature beginning to fall. A crispness  in the air as i filled my lungs warned me that I could expect sleat or possibly even snow. Iain had already arrived and i could see  by his expressions and the tone of his voice he was worried about the final stage of the day. Time was getting on but i still felt sure I'd be fine.

Taking a short break we chatted about my plans, myself trying to convince iain nothing could go wrong. Gradually i managed to convince him that the last few miles would be easy and was about to set off when a snow blizzard engulfed the area.

Was i worried,  well yes of course i was but would i let on, absolutely not. Sitting in the car i waited hoping the blizzard would pass or at least ease up. It didn't,  so after a while and with time ticking by i made the decision to head off into the white shroud, not something I'd recommend to anyone.

Snow was now laying thick on the ground and I felt a little concerned as i entered the bleak wilderness. Would i loose the track i was following, was it such a good idea to walk in the blizzard without even carrying a map. I had faith in my abilities though.

I'd hiked a mile before the snow stopped.  The baron landscape had been transformed into something quite magical. I had been a little worried I'd loose sight of the track but thankfully this hadn't been the case in fact the track was extremely easy to follow and in no time at all i was heading down from the hills towards the road running alongside the loch and towards the cave.

As i arrived at the cave the light began to fade but finding the cave was reasonably easy. As i approached the mouth of the cave i was taken a back,  it was considerably larger than I'd expected. Inside was an alter where visitors had left small wooden crosses and at the back of the cave i could see another smaller cave which naturally i had to explore.

As i setup my sleeping accommodation i felt the air chilling but being that the cave was a place of holy significance i felt that building a fire was somewhat inappropriate.

17th January day 318

I was surprisingly cosy in the cave and during the night found myself gradually stripping down to my boxers. The following morning once again the crisp fresh air filled my lungs as i sat boiling some water for breakfast. It seemed to be dry outside and i hoped it would stay that way.

After breakfast i cleared my gear away and inspected the sky outside closer. It had begun to rain and felt like it was getting colder. It wasn't long after I'd left the cave following the road taking me to the head of the loch the skies cleared and the sun began to shine. Had my secret prayers been heard by the big man upstairs or was it simply luck. Not wanting to analyse faith and religious beliefs too close i settled for mother luck. One thing was certain though, I'd be able to remove the rubber trousers i was wearing allowing my legs to breathe instead of sweating to the point my trousers saturated.

Released from my rubber prison and feeling the cool air brushing against my trousers was a great relief. I seriously needed to find alternative wet weather gear including the jacket, which I'm sure would be suitable on a fishing boat but out un the wild could potentially bring on pneumonia or contribute towards hypothermia. Attempting to complete a challenge such as this requires specialist kit, a luxury i simply didn't have. A challenge within a challenge.

I was now heading towards Tarbert which had been given the name by the vikings. Basically the vikings decided that anything they could sail round was theirs. By carrying their boat over the two mile stretch of land where Tarbert now stands and sailing around the mull of kintyre they claimed the land to be theirs. If only it was that simple for me.

18th January day 319

It was a cold morning with ice laying on puddles. I looked to the sky to determine the weather for the day but couldn't decide whether i was looking at clear skies or cloud cover. Venturing out from the warmth and comfort of my cocoon i was pleased to see whispy clouds and blue skies as far as the eye could see. Across from the camp site i could see snow capped mountains on the island opposite.

With hardly a breeze in the air i set off, my destination for the day was Tarbert where i hoped to pick up some more gas, wet wipes and hopefully a new tarp and to replace pegs I'd managed to loose during the recent bad weather.

It was a pleasant hike using the road to expediate my journey and because for some reason my phone had lost the days satellite images making it impossible to determine whether or not the actual coastline was navigable safely.

Occasionally i was able to see the sea from behind the trees that lined this particular part of the Scottish coast but the majority of the day i spent having the scenery blocked from view. It was a big shame by all accounts as the day couldn't have been more perfect. As five o'clock approached and the sun began to set i stopped a mere mile or so from Tarbert. It was sunday anyway and the  chandlery and hardware stores i needed to visit would have been closed anyway.

Finding somewhere suitable to camp was difficult but settling for  a small woodland i set up camp and had dinner. I'd now spent three days without mobile coverage, it would appear o2 although excellent on the north coast was somewhat sparse along the west coast.

19th January day 320

I woke around 2:30am, ice had crytalised over my gear, on the tarp and over my bivibag. It was extremely cold beyond the confines of my sleeping bag. The water in my bottles had also begun to freeze. Feeling a little thirsty i decided to use some if what little gas i had left to make a coffee, having to turn the bottle upside down in order to get a good enough flame to boil the frozen water i was able to pour from one of the bottles. The new stove I'd picked up from fort William was nowhere near as efficient as the one I'd had before and i was now wishing i kept it in my bag as a backup.

It wasn't until 8:30 that i finally re awoke after dropping off at around 4:30am. Peering out from my sleeping bag i was quite surprised to see a young deer no more than 15 meters from the tarp. As i turned over it looked straight at me, sniffed the air and darted off into the woods. Out if the corner of my eye, a little further away i saw another baby deer. It too hadn't seen me i grabbed my phone determined to get that illusive photo I'd been chasing for since entering the highlands. A photo or video of a deer close up. Fat chance,  i reached for the phone slowly, switched on, the deer now glaring across at me, motionless. A perfect opportunity.  I pointed the camera ready to shoot. A message displayed on the screen, something about low temperature. I pressed the button but the lens had ice on it and the camera couldn't focus. The deer darted and the opportunity missed, again.

Using the last of my gas i boiled what frozen water i could extract from my water bottles had breakfast and packed up. Although Tarbert was on the east side of the kintyre peninsula and i had still to hike the west side i needed to get more gas to see me ok during the hike to the mull of kintyre and back up to campbletown. I was also hoping to arrange a meeting with mark stephens from the bbc radio programme "out of doors".

Only camped a mile from the town it didn't take long to reach the town which in its self was weird as it would take me a week or so before i pass it again after hiking down to Scotlands most southerly point.

Walking into Tarbert i first hit the coop store to get wet wipes, coffee and double a batteries for my head torch. Then it was a few doors up to buy the last canister of gas from the iron mongers.  It was a small can though which i knew would only last a couple of days and nowhere near enough for the journey i had ahead. Luckily the kintyre electrical store stocked more than just electrical gear. In fact it had camping and gardening products too. While chatting away to the owners, big supporters of the rnli, they happily donated a large can of gas and replacement pegs for those I'd lost.

I then decided to treat myself to a cooked breakfast at lite bites cafe who offered free wifi. Using the wifi i was able to send an email update to mark letting him know my whereabouts hoping he'd be able to pick up the message to confirm the interview. With Facebook updated and emails checked i relaxed with a nice coffee, charging my batteries, mp3 player and phone.

It wasn't long before mark arrived in tarbert and we both headed off to record the interview. It was an interesting experience chatting away about the trek and future plans as we hiked over frozen bogs and along the shore I'd camped at the night before. Mark took my pack just to experience the sheer weight i had become a custom to over the last 10 months. After the interview we headed back to Tarbert where we said our final goodbyes and i returned to the warmth of the cafe to finish charging the phone.

That evening, after checking Facebook and discovering that it had dropped to -12c the night before,  i headed back to the same place I'd camped the night before and settled in .

20th January day 321

It wasn't as cold that morning,  the skies were however covered with an ominous covering of dark clouds. Once again deer visited my camp, this time i lay completely still, watching them as they tried to determine what I was. After a good 15 minutes the deer sauntered off, this time though more relaxed and un spooked by my presence.

After breakfast and having packed away i set of down west loch following a single road above the water passing several wrecked boats still moored. Laying silent their days spent and hulls slowly decaying. Past the west loch pier i was confronted by a locked gate, a sign saying "private ". Excercising my right to roam and feeling sure that i could get along the shoreline i continued.

A few hundred yards from the gate was quite obviously a holiday home, no one was there and possibly hadn't been for quite some time. Beyond the cottage i could see the track continued although it was extremely overgrown. Now unable to follow the shoreline i followed the trail. As i made my way along it became apparent that the trail now covered in plants with trees growing across had once been a tarmac drive way or possibly the main road. In places the foundations had been claimed by the loch and the tarmac was crumbling away.

Eventually i reached a slight hurdle. The owners of the property obviously didn't want hikers strolling through their holiday habitat. A large metal fence with barbed wire prevented easy access or in my case exit. Pausing for a moment to assess the situation i decided to climb a small rock face anf squeeze between the trees to avoid having to climb over the fence and avoid the barbed wire. It was a simple plan made so much harder than it needed to be with the enormous bulk of the floatation jacket, now led across and strapped down to my backpack, catching on branches as i attempted to make my way.  With much cursing and grunting i forced my way through to end up back on the trail.

The way ahead now looking more and more daunting with my old friends the gorse growing wild. With the jacket catching on the thorns if my old nemesis i battled my way through eventually arriving at a main road. It had been quite some time since I'd had to worry about high speed traffic. The peace and serenity of the trek was now to be disturbed by the noise of lorries, cars and vans.

Walking into the on coming traffic and jumping to the verge to avoid being squashed like a hedgehog or badger i continued to follow the loch, still within sight but beyond access due to thick growing rhododendrons and tightly packed birch.

It was a fair few miles before I was able to leave the main road. At the small village of Whitehouse i was able to pick up the scent if adventure. An old unused road heading through a woodland with a thick carpet of leaves would give me the chance to step back in time. Crossing a stone bridge i immediately found what at first i thought was a derelict cottage but on further investigation i determined was an old water mill. The building split  in two by a thick dividing wall had a crumbling staircase on one side that now went nowhere. The second storey had rotted into dust. In the other side of the wall was another room, its purpose undermined and on both sides trees growing from the centre of what i guess had once been a stone floor. Taking a little time out to look around unhindered by my pack was a welcome relief.

It was beginning to get cold, and i mean freezing. I'd wanted to get at least 10 miles in before finding a place to stay and feeling the drop in temperature through my fingers i decided to keep going wondering where the forgotten lane would lead me. My question was soon to be answered, it took me back to the road. Was i disappointed, yes i most certainly was. Was i expecting anything different, no.

Reluctant but with no other choice i rejoined the road to follow it. I could see the shoreline still but as the road meandered on it slowly but surely took me further away from where i really wanted to be, next to the water.

Thankfully i hadn't walked far before i came upon a lane that branched off the main highway. I didn't know where it would take me but it did head off in the direction of the loch. It was certainly worth following just to see and if nothing else,  satisfy my curiosity.

The lane started off by passing a couple of cottages and eventually ended up at a farm house from there it became a gravel track which eventually turned muddy but did take me to the shore. As i drew closer i felt the temperature drop rapidly as sleat began to fall. After stopping briefly to put the floatation jacket on as extra protection against the elements i proceeded down and across the shoreline. Now with woodland to my left and water to my right i felt once again at ease with the trek.

After a few more miles and a slight yet brief detour through the woods the light noticeably faded. Deciding my hike for the day was rapidly drawing to an end i filled my bottles with water from a small trickle and began to seek a good place to set up shelter and to possibly get a fire going. It was still relatively early though and really didn't feel like stopping just then.

Keeping my spirits high although feeling noticeably peckish i continued wishing to make as much distance as possible. I was still hiking the loch and had yet to reach the coast again. The sleat slowly turned to the light patter of rain as i came upon a kaki green caravan. Being ever the optimist i tried the door and to my surprise it opened. The caravan had either been abandoned or was only ever used as a holiday retreat.

Either way it was unlocked and suitable accommodation for the night out of the rain and hopefully slightly warmer than sleeping under the tarp.

As darkness fell i made myself something to eat and checked my remaining supplies. It wasn't good. Guessing my nearest post office and shops was either Tarbert or campbletown i calculated I'd probably end up four days short on food. A slight problem but none the less a challenge i was happy to accept.

21st January day 322

Even though I was nicely tucked away in side the caravan it still felt ridiculously cold. Waking up i immediately looked out through the windows to see what the weather was like. It appeared to be dry and the trees were still. Everything was in a freeze frame.

Leaving the caravan i headed back to get as close to the shore as possible which meant a short walk between a few bare trees and down to the stones that formed the shoreline. Hiking that morning was pleasant,  it wasn't too cold and as the hours passed the sun shone down unhindered by clouds, warming the air to quite a comfortable temperature. In fact it was beginning to feel like spring.

After a couple of miles i came upon a gate, a locked gate. A sign nailed to it saying "private ". The property most probably belonged to an English man who didn't obviously understand the right to roam hikers enjoy in Scotland. No problem i simply climbed over and continued on my way.

Ahead of me now i could see the coast once again. The tide was out which helped immensely allowing me to hike the shoreline below the boggy salt marshes to my left. It didn't seem that the weather would change drastically and i felt hopeful I'd be able to get a good many miles in which was important considering my limited supplies.

The next few miles were relatively easy going crossing a sandy beach, paddling in the cold waters if burn and clambering over slippery boulders towards the head land. It was great being back to the solitude of the remote coastline. No traffic disturbing the peace and no small talk to distract me from the task I'd undertaken. Once again i was alone with my thoughts.

Having navigated my way along the shores of the loch i eventually found myself at a small village. The pier had seen better days now crumbling up into large blocks of concrete. Passing two rather grand houses i noticed in the garden of the second not only an old rusty mountain bike decorated with the skull of a cow complete with horns but also a couple of creepy looking sculptures resembling giant insect type creatures.

From there the main road joined me, the noise of lorries and speeding vans. Thanking my lucky stars i was able to pick up a coastal walk at the far end of the siding which kept me close enough to the coast and far enough away from the road. With calm waters at my side and the sun still shining bright i thoroughly enjoyed the walk which i eventually discovered was part of the kintyre way, a 76 mile trail around the kintyre peninsula. Unfortunately after a few short miles it headed inland and i was back to dodging cars and lorries but thankfully only for a short way.

Back on the trail i found the going extremely easy. It was like walking during early spring and for the first time in a few months i could feel the warmth of the sun on my face. Climbing down onto a sandy beach that seemed to disappear over the horizon i began a long hike which reminded me of the long walks I'd made coming up the east coast. The ses was very still with small waves lapping against the shore.

Passing an unusual looking brick tower i decided to satisfy the Explorer in me and went over for a closer look. The tower was about 10' square and consisted of two storeys. At a guess i would say it was used as a lookout tower during the second world war to guard the entrance to the loch leading to Tarbert.  I could be wrong though.

From the tower and not too far away was a small forest, the spruce tightly packed and ideal for setting up camp. With only an hour or so of light left i decided to head over and call it a day. I'd had a good hike and was beginning to feel hungry and my left shoulder once again feeling the strain of carrying the pack.

Finding a good space near to some fallen trees, meaning dead wood, i set up the tarp and gathered fire wood to keep me warm and cook my evening meal on. I needed to save my gas as best i could as it was still quite a hike til i reached campbletown, the nearest town and my best chance if getting more supplies.