16th - 21st February

16th February day 347

Starting the day faced with rain was not what i really wanted or expected after the recent spouts of sunshine but it soon cleared up and i found myself thinking back over my time hiking the beautiful scenery of the highlands. Leaving Gourock was a poinient moment for me on the trek. No longer would i be faced with days of remote wilderness from here on in i could expect towns with bars, supermarkets and traffic. Was i feeling sad? I wasn't sure.

Slinging my pack on to my shoulders i left the lighthouse and began following the footpath looking over at the tranquility of the other side. When i say footpath i also mean a real footpath, one made of tarmac, i couldn't remember the last time I'd seen one.

Another thing I quickly noticed was the number of dog walkers i passed, something you don't tend to see much whilst trekking the west coast. To say the going was easy doesn't quite sum it up  i felt like i was somewhere completely different yet a mere couple of miles from the wild coast I'd conquered only a few days before and had spent several months tackling.

A few miles later and well passed Gourock i came upon the derelict site of what I'm guessing was an old power station. Nothing was standing now except the main gates and these weren't exactly secure. Passing through a section of the security fencing that had been dislodged and rolled back i entered the site and proceeded to hike down towards the coast. Being away from the busy road peace filled the air and i was once again alone although there was an eerie feeling about the place.

Not being a particularly large place i soon found myself at the far perimeter fence, there was nowhere else i could go, i felt thwarted. I could now either turn back or attempt to climb over. Niether really appealed to me so i began looking for an alternative. There were no holes like the one I'd walked through but as the tide appeared to be low i wondered if I'd be able to go round the end and over the rocks.

As i made my way to the end of the fence i could see it was indeed possible to get down and around so i went for it. The rock was slippery but on the whole it wasn't as bad as I'd first thought. Once i was on the other side i continued to make my way carefully clambering, climbing up and down passed the back gardens of private homes towards the town of Wemyss.

The skies were gorgeous blue and the sun was still shining down upon me gradually setting over the isle of bute. As night began to fall i hiked my way through largs seeking a place to shelter.

Finding it difficult to locate a place to set up shelter for the night i opted to play it safe and asking a local found a cheap bed n breakfast to stay in. I could see from the satellite images on my phone this would now be my biggest challenge.

17th February day 348

Having had a good nights rest i was faced with a difficult decision, should i carry on or should i stop another night to gather my thoughts and plan the way ahead or should i head off and continue the journey and take the challenge by its horns.

Deciding to take a day off to adjust to the new environment i had now found myself in i went to a nearby superstore to get comfort food and stayed in my room to catch up on  my blogs. I'd left it far to long and although i haf notes recalling the events that had taken place was difficult.

18th February day 349

After having a good breakfast i gathered my kit together and headed straight for the coast. It was overcast and the wind, head on, was quite strong. I hiked away from largs towards pencil beach where i came across an unusual pencil shaped monument. I guess thats why it was called pencil beach.

Following the footpath from the giant pencil i followed the railway towards the marina where anchors dating back over the centuries had been laid beside the path. With not much else to look at these gigantic anchors made for a good distraction. Beyond the anchors i was forced to rejoin the road. After spending such a long time away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life it felt like an industrial revolution had hit  Scotland.

Looking for every opportunity to escape the noise of cars and lorries i took out my phone to examine the satellite images I'd cached. Ahead of me was hunterston power station and beyond that wide open space for a few miles before hitting the next town. Regardless of whether or not there was a public footpath this was the opportunity i was seeking.

I peeled off from the main road and headed  down a quiet road towards the power station. As i passed by the nuclear sites i wondered if i would have the same problem as i did with Dounreay. Thankfully i was able to hike unhindered following the shore and reached the other side. Cliffs now begun to tower to my left but the way ahead looked easy. On the horizon i could see what appeared to be the silhouette of a castle.

The castle I'd seen was Portencross castle and was significant to robert the bruce. Apparently it was open to the public but not until april, a shame as I'd quite liked the opportunity to go and look around. The wind was now starting to get under my skin, granted it wasn't as strong as I'd experienced on the mull of kintyre but it was continuous and relentless.

I  carried on none the less determined to make it to Ardrossan by the evening although i had little hope that I'd actually find any trees when i arrived to camp amongst. For that matter I'd also not seen any fresh water streams or rivers since crossing over the clyde. Without water my freeze dried rations were pretty much useless. If i didn't find any water by the time i got to the town i would have to resort to the same techniques I'd employed during the first part of the trek by stopping at bars or public toilets to fill up.

Approaching Ardrossan with the tide out and night falling i headed across the firm sand of harbour bed towards the coastguard tower and towards another concrete jungle. There were no trees to be seen. Climbing up the rocky sea defences i continued following the coast lit by street lamps looking for somewhere to hold up for the night. A bin shed, derelict building anything that would provide some kind of shelter but i found nothing.

It was now getting late and checking the satellite images i could see no signs of woodland ahead, well not for a long time anyway. I had money in my pocket though so decided i would have to find a b and b again. It would be safer than spending a night in a shop doorway. I  was a little gutted and reluctantly i began searching for a bedfor the night.

Calling in it at the first hotel i came across i asked if they had any spare rooms for one night. They didn't but the receptionist quickly called a guest house nearby and before too long i was being picked up and dropped off at probably oneof the most unique bed n breakfasts I've ever stayed in. On the outside you could be forgiven for thinking it was just a residential home but on entering you were cast back to the days of shivelry, king arthurs castle.

In the hallway stood a suit of armour and hung from the walls were shields, swords and other medieval weapons. It was quite simply amazing. It was a knight to remember.

19th February day 350

Leaving the unusual bed and breakfast i gethered my kit together and headed off back to the coast which wasn't as simple as I'd thought. After getting slightly disoriented or for want of a better word, lost, i eventually found the shore. The sun was out and the wind although still strong was at my back. The sea was rough with huge waves rolling in and crashing against the promenade sending a sea shower ten feet into the air and on occasion spraying me as i attempted to dodge getting wet.

About a mile from the town i ended up on a long sandy beach with dunes to my left. I was now heading towards saltcoats, or was i hiking passed it. I wasn't sure but i did know my target destination for the day was a place called troon.

Reaching the end of the beach meant i had arrived at the point and with no other option than to turn left i continued on towards a high concrete sea defence. To steep to walk in front of and with security fencing running along the edge at the top i followed a well trodden path between bushes strewn with plastic bags and rubbish up a bank and through a hole somebody had kindly cut into the wire mesh of the fence.

I was now walking through a maze of oddly shaped dunes. Tracks leading this way and that. It felt like a military installation although a long time abandoned. Off away from the coast and too far to investigate i could see the tops of concrete structures and buildings which i assumed were derelict. Once again my imagination began to run riot but i managed to stay focused and was well aware of the distance i still had to cover before nightfall.

The weather had been amazing all day with the sun shining down and that didn't look like it was going to change any time soon. After wandering between the dunes for a while and enjoying the shelter from the wind i finally reached what remained of the rusted perimeter fence. Which was quite lucky because i didn't fancy having to climb over it.

As i headed towards the mouth of the river that flowed from Irvine to the sea i noticed an unusual grass covered dome it looked like a giant bunker or teletubbies house. I couldn't make my mind up which but eager to get to troon i didn't stop to find out. Reachingthe bank of the river i looked down at the water. It was far to rough to paddle across  with enormous waves rolling in from the sea causing an incredible amount of chop. Too dangerous to risk. Looking along the bank i could see a bridge, which was good because to walk around the river would mean doubling back and adding at least four miles to the days journey. As i walked closer to the bridge though i could see I'd have a problem crossing over. The mid section appeared to have been cut away. Stood at the beginning of the bridge i could see it was in fact still in tact but to provide access to the Irvine harbour the bridge was retracted creating an enormous gap, too far to jump. It was a job for hoolley.

I looked around and spotted a possible place to launch from so without hanging around i followed the footpath from the bridge passed the teletubbies house,  which of course i had a closer look at, down to the waters edge. Within minutes hoolley was ready and i pushed off. My intention was to paddle from one side to the other and follow the salt marshes round to come up on a slipway i could just make out further into the harbour. This simple plan as it turns out wasn't as simple as I'd first thought.

Escaping the calm waters near the bank i suddenly began to think my plan wasn't such a good idea afterall. Strong undercurrents and choppy waves provided me with quite a fight. Making it all the way to the slipway in one attempt was obviously not going to work. I stayed on course and used the current and flow of the incoming tide to carry me across to the salt marsh opposite. It quickly shallowed and with very little depth below me i decided to get out of hoolley and drag her to land. Once on the solid marsh i continued dragging hoolley fully loaded across the flattened grass to the next river which was only a few hundred yards away. Once opposite the slipway i relaunched hoolley and beganto paddle towards the slip way. It was a less exciting crossing this time and it didn't take long to reach the concrete slope. The problem here though was that the top of the slipway was fenced in with high security fences, too high to climb over. I needed another plan. Looking around i noticed, not far away, a set of old stone steps leading up to the promenade. This was to be my get out. Everything worked out fine in the end but it was truly a mini adventure. Feeling quite happy about the trip and finding myself opposite the ship inn, Irvines oldest pub, i decided to stop for a bite to eat and an orange juice and lemonade.

Once again there were no trees, which meant nowhere to tie the tarp up. After enquiring about possible places to rest the night i decided to opt for a cheap b n b nearby, I'd been given the meal for free after explaining the challenge so decided I'd take another night of luxury. Although it was nice taking to a bed deep down i was hoping I'd return to the wild once more to sleep  with nature.

20th February day 351

It looked like the good weather was going to continue. I hadn't made it to troon the day before as I'd hoped, maybe I'd been daudeling it should have been possible. It didn't really matter i knew I'd get there today.

The beach from Irvine is flat, firm and stretches for miles. The sea was much calmer than the day before and i anticipated an easy hike.

It  didn't take me long at all to reach troon. Hiking along the road towards the town i was slightly taken aback when an excited voice called out and a rather bubbly linda crossed the road. Linda had been following my progress on twitter, which I'd only really just fathomed out. A warm welcome on a chilly day. I was in fact looking for a cafe to grab a coffee and possibly a bite to eat, Linda very kindly pointed me in the direction of the morrisons store just up the road. After posing for a quick photo i said goodbye and  carried on.

After enjoying a burger topped with pulled pork and cheese accompanied by a mocha i set off towards the harbour. The troon lifeboat station is situated on the tip of a small peninsula near to the marina and harbour. I couldn't exactly pass by without first popping my head in to say hello and as with all the stations I'd visited on my epic journey they welcomed me as one of there own offering me a coconut mallow and mug of coffee. I'm never surprised or disappointed by the characters that risk there lives saving morons like myself, always chirpy and extremely friendly.  Its almost like they're cloned.

After my short rest exchanging banter and stories i set off for the beach to Prestwick. The weather was still holding out, well that is until i reached the golf course, yes i was back in golfing country now. A short but cold hail shower  hit me as i began the hike so spotting a small shelter i ducked in to put my wet weather gear on. I didn't fancy catching a cold at this stage. Typically no sooner had i got my kit on the shower passed over. I wasn't going to take it off though so carried on. I could see the lights of Prestwick airport ahead now and knew it wouldn't be long before i was entering another concrete jungle.

I still wasn't used to hiking through so many towns, it was an odd feeling.

21st February day 352

In the end i decided to accept defeat once again. Not finding a suitable place to shelter I'd checked into a cheap hotel. In the back of my mind i hoped i wasn't softening up. after a good nights rest i woke to another glorious sunny morning. I left the hotel and hiked along the high street to cross the bridge over the river that breaks the town/city in two, taking the first opportunity to head back to the coast i soon found myself hiking along a sandy beach the sun warming my face and the sea breeze chilling my hands.

I was looking forward to a nice walk, it wasn't too cold and with blue skies  above it looked like it would be a dry day. Away from the town and standing proud on a headland was the remains of a castle. How it defied gravity I'll never know. It certainly didn't look stable and as i passed beneath it i wondered how many more years it would remain before finally being claimed by the sea. The tide was coming in and knowing that the next section of the coast was only accessible at low tide i also wondered how far I'd be able to get before I'd have no choice but to head up on to the cliffs.

Around the headland and onto the beach beyond i began to hike keeping a keen eye on what lay ahead. The beach was a combination of sand, stones and shingles. Seaweed marked the high tide line which gave me an indication of how much further it had to come in.

Towards me was walking a tall thin man sporting a woolly hat and a beard of biblical proportions. This was Micheal. Michael was out walking his dogs. Several years before he'd left home and escaped to spain where he'd managed a nightclub earning vast amounts of money promoting debauchery and profiting from the temptations of man. That's what he told me. He'd also been talkingto god and god had told him to visit the beach on this day for a gift would be there for him. Apparently i was that gift.

Meeting on the beach we chatted briefly and I told Michael about my journey, a journey he too had wanted to attempt. Asking if i would mind some company Michael joined me for a hike along the coast eager to tell me about the history of the area, about the covenant and about the atrocities that had taken place in the dark ages of Scotland.

As we continued to walk along the shore Micheal turned to me and said "i was told to bring a book with me, its for you". Reaching into his man bag which was hanging off his shoulder he produced a small book, It looked old, he handed it over and told me to put it in my pocket. I later pulled it out of my pocket to read the title on the spine "the imitation of christ"

Together we hiked into the next bay, Michael was keen to show me some caves that had been used by the covenant as a hiding place from the tyranny of their oppressors. The tide was now almost completely in and we decided the next set of cliffs were impassable so opted to climb the steep slope and head over the top to get down to the bay beyond. Michael was convinced the caves were further on.

Negotiating the fields, hopping over the low fences and jumping a couple of streams we looked for a way to return back to the coast. A break in one of the fences appeared to be our exit strategy. On the other side was steep slope but nothing that couldn't be tackled. We headed down and made our way to the bottom and continued our search for the caves. The cliff faces gradually got lower until we reached a point where Micheal announced "i think we've passed them". It was disappointing he now believed the caves had been below us when we'd had no choice but to make our way over the cliffs. Sitting down for a break we continued talking about the covenant and his belief in jesus and god, his visions and faith.

"We'll meet again brother" he said, at that and without another word said he stood up turned and began walking back the way we'd come his arms outsretched. "Safe journey " i called out, he dipped his head but didn't look back and then he was gone.

Reaching dunure i decided to stop for a hot chocolate and bowl of soup. While sat relaxing the weather turned decidedly awful. The temperature dropped rapidly, the sea turned rough and the heavens opened up.

Not wanting to stop any longer i put my wet weather gear on and set off towards dunure castle which apparently was famous for the roasting of the Abbot. Something I'd have to look into once I'd got home. The tide was now beginning to recede which was good news for me. Passed the castle i headed back to the coastline and continued where i could to walk the shoreline. At points i had to stop and wait for the waters to recede further before continuing but all in all the hike was free from incident. Eventually i reached a long beach and could see culzean castle ahead. The light was fading fast and it was soon to be time for me to camp up for the night. Thankfully there were also trees which meant I'd be able to set up the tarp and settle in comfortably.