9th - 10th February

9th February day 340

It was a misty start to the day and that had nothing to do with my previous days hangover.

I left Tarbert from the harbour towards the point using a well trodden footpath up through the local woodland. The path ended at a stony bay. I then followed an animal trail  over rocks and traversing rockfaces to Stonefield castle. The route had been tough and challenging but being successful and completing a section of the coast noone in their right mind would attempt is completely satisfying.

Arriving on the shore in front of the castle i was faced with what sone would say was a pointless task, barrmore island.  Barrmore island which isn't an island as its joined by a narrow stony track sticks out from the mainland and although from afar looked impregnable with steep sloped and a tightly packed woodland in fact boasts a quite reasonable footpath which takes you all the way round only to end up quite literally feet away from where you started. I'm glad i did it to be honest it was actually a lovely little hike.

Leaving the island i passed a tree to my left I'd seen from the tough coastal scramble I'd made from Tarbert. Normally i wouldn't mention individual trees but this one was special. It had been decorated with dozens of small bouys, some orange others pink and the rest faded and of indeterminate colour. It was quite a unique display and I'm sure some would argue it had a certain artistic merit.

From the island i headed up into the rhododendrons towards the castle, now a high class hotel and found an old track to follow. The track eventually brought me out at the main road which joined tarbert with Ardrishaig.

I have completely gone off roads since hiking Britain, fast cars, lorries and the noise. After all I'd been through to get this far i felt hiking the road was probably the most dangerous part of the whole trip. It didn't matter which road they were all as bad As each other.

Time was now getting on and darkness soon joined me. Using my head torch to light the way i carried on determined to make it to  Ardrishaig and the entrance to the crinan canal that night.

10th February day 341

Leaving the  crinan canal i hiked to Lochgilphead where i called in at the argyll advertiser and met a reporter who i hoped would print a good article about the trek. Most of the other articles had been somewhat innacurate but then again why let facts get in the way of a particularly good story.

After my brief interview i left the argyll advertiser offices and made my way through the town. As i left Lochgilphead i passed the old clock tower, now derelict,  a rather unusual piece of architecture and considering its purpose as the towns clock being located a fairway outside the town really caught my attention. Unable to explore the interior i only spent a short time looking around the building before carrying on my days hike.

A few miles from the Clock Tower i found myself at loch fynne. The weather had remained favourable all day so i decided to seize the chance to paddle across to otter ferry, the site of the old ferry, thus saving me at least three days hiking. As i unpacked hoolley i kept an eye on the water determining the tidal flow, weather conditions and seeking  possible places to egress on the far side.

Directly opposite me was a small island and at low tide which this wasn't a large spit is visible which stretches about half way across just down from otter ferry. With hoolley ready to go i began the paddle across passing the southern end of the island on my left. The tide was still coming in but the water was dead calm. Birds were flocking for their feast, it would soon be dusk.

On the far side of the island i could now see a large red bouy. Using it as a marker i continued to paddle across the loch. At a guess i would say the distance was somewhere between a mile and a half and two miles total.

I was just passing the bouy to my left when i heard an unusual sound, a spraying sound, a blowing sound, a sound i thought i knew. I  stopped paddling and turned my head listening intently. A minute or so passed then i heard it again, out of the corner of my eye i saw something too. A ripple in the water, only slight.  I turned hoolley around and began paddling back towards the bouy. Getting closer i saw a fin. A dorsal fin, the fin of a dolphin. Were there more or was i seeing things. A minute or so later again a spray of water followed by an arched back with a fin. The fin had a slight nick taken out of it. I  sat and watched. It was totally magical and a once in a lifetime experience. regular as clockwork the fin would appear as the lone dolphin circled the bouy obviously feeding on unsuspecting fish, the dolphins supper.

It was hard to pull myself away from the spectacle but with the sun threatening to set i had no choice but to carry on and leave this domain. As i paddled away from the bouy i couldn't help but look back every now and then trying to savour the moment for as long as i possibly could.

It wasn't long before the bouy was nothing but a spec floating on the loch and the shore got closer. I was now joined by two seals. Landing on the shores was as always a great feeling, hoolley once again doing a fine job. The following day would mean a good hike into unknown territory, much like any day, but for now i was going to rest up and re energise.