6th - 7th march

6th March day 365

Exactly 1 year ago on this day at 10am i took the first step of my marathon 6600 mile trek around Britain's coastline. In some ways it feels like an eternity yet in others it seems like only yesterday.  I have walked so far, seen so much, experienced highs and lows and met some phenomenal people. I have stayed in birdhides, bunkers, horse boxes, caves and while sat eating my smooth oats with raspberries i find myself in a coastguards hut. Still having a couple of thousand miles ahead i wonder what the future brings and if this journey as in any way changed me.

One thing i did know for certain though was if I'd carried a map with me yesterday would have probably ended slightly differently. Whilst eating my evening sweet n sour meal i noticed a local area o/s map opened up resting on the desk in front of me. Curiosity got the better of me and i had to take a closer look at the stretch of coast I'd abandoned. Annoyingly i located the track I'd come across and turned left inland towards the road, if I'd have turned right and followed the track towards the sea about a mile later i would have picked up a coastal path that would have taken me right along the cliffs all the way to the isle of Whithorn. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I couldn't turn back the clocks now but for the rest of the evening i was haunted by what ifs and felt a little gutted by not knowing what I'd missed.  My knee was still hurting and well it looked a little swollen and off colour. My injuries were worse than i could have expected and although i knew i needed to take care on the following days hikes i also knew i didn't want to miss any more of this beautiful coastline.

At 9am i was to be meeting with Curtis from the free press. Leaving the coastguard hut behind me i headed down to the harbour for my photo opportunity and interview. Unfortunately Curtis wasn't able to make it but he had called the coffee shop to explain and hold the interview over the phone. It was a shame as  had while walking down decided to ask him for a lift back to where i had left the coast so i could tackle the 4 miles of coastal path I'd missed. It was too far to hike back too so i decided instead to carry on towards Wigtown.

Leaving the coffee shop i went back to following the coast deep down hoping i wouldn't come across any more electrified fences or barbed wire. I didn't have to hike long offroad before i joined a coastal path which in comparison to what i was used to was easy going and whats more even though i often came across electrified fences there were plenty if metal kissing gates that thankfully weren't electrified.

Hiking overthe clifftops was easy enough and meant that i could go easy on my knee which was a little agrivated from the accident the day before. The wind was strong as it howled across the hills and i often found myself having to pay attention to my balance as i was knocked sideways by its tremendous force.

Entering into one field i could see an unusual arch perched ontop of a cliffy outcrop ahead. It looked like a stargate, you know like from the film. As i got closer my opinion didn't change there was something quite astronomical about it. Unfortunately i hadn't found an inter dimensional gateway to the stars it was in fact all that remained of an old castle but even up close it looked like a portal to another realm.

Having investigated the arch closely i continued across the fields on the clifftops until i reached another archway, this one was made of trained shrubs. Through the archway i entered into a very different world, a woodland sheltered from the elements. The coastal path continued through the woods and eventually brought me out at Garlieston where i stopped at the local pub on the harbour for a coffee and not being to sure if I'd find any streams ahead i topped up my water bottles.

From the harbour i rentered some woods and continued to follow the coastal path again nicely sheltered from the wind which appeared to be picking up strength. Nearly Reaching the far end of the woods after a couple of hours hiking i decided to find a nice place to set up camp and settled in for a celebratory anniversary chicken tikka curry followed by custard with apple and a coffee.

7th March day 366

It was a misty morning, looking out from beneath the tarp i gazed out across the bay towards the peninsula opposite. I couldn't see it, i knew it was there but all i could see was white. Being slow to crawl out from my sleeping bag i eventually organised my head and began boiling the water to make up my breakfast.

Sheltered beneath the trees and snuggly tucked up behind an ivy covered slope i could hear the wind howling above me.  It wasn't raining and although the clouds were hanging low i felt quite sure it would remain dry.

After packing away i set off and continued along the stony shore line the woodland still to my left but not for long. As i had expected a little further the woods ended and i found myself exposed and trudging through long grass. It was hard going but seeing Wigtown ahead i felt my spirits lift. Wigtown is a small village that doesn't make wigs or indeed have anything to do with hair pieces whatsoever. It does boast Scotlands largest secondhand bookshop though and after receiving a message from alison brown it would be the place i would meet shaun, shaun with the messy hair and tattery jumper. What you see is what you get shaun. Well thats what the message said.

From where i was it wasn't a straight forward hike into the village reaching a rather wide river and wind being a tad gusty i had to walk up stream until i found a road and bridge. From the bridge and with the wind at my back i soon hiked in to the village centre where sure enough i found the green door of the book shop with concrete book spirals and two benches.

Shaun wasn't there but explaining the message I'd Recieved to nancy, who was covering for shaun while he was at a book auction, i was welcomed in, shown around the store which has over a mile of shelving and told to put the kettle on to make tea.

While i waited for shaun i decided to hit a nearby cafe for a bite to eat and a mocha. On getting back to the shop shaun had returned but only for a short while. I shown to the back door and taken to where the Wigtown book festival book club meet. A small building with four antique tables with chairs and a sofa. Considering i was expecting a warehouse this turned out to be luxury.

We had a very quick chat about the trek before shaun apologised and had to go get ready to leave. The description I'd Recieved was fairly accurate and a shame we didn't have time to chat longer.