16 - 17 November

16th November

Although it was a chilly night the morning was quite mild. I woke up with the urgency to dig a pit. Making haste leaving my sleeping bag I headed over to the woods but the urgency increased. Staying healthy on a trip like the one I had embarked on was paramount. Without going into too much detail I found myself a little concerned when it shot out like a muck spreader with the consistency of an unsavoury liquid. Maybe it was something I'd eaten or possibly the water I'd consumed was tainted. Either way it was a little concerning.

After I'd packed away,slung the backpack over my shoulder I headed off along the loch side road towards Glenuig. Looking across the water I could easily see the terrain I had wanted to conquer. It was rocky and almost vertical almost all the way. Attempting to successfully negotiate it would have required specialist gear, more importantly it would have required climbing gear, something I wasn't carrying. All in all it would have been a formidable challenge that I would have had no chance in completing. It seemed that although the mountains were smaller the further south I went the coastline was invariably getting harder, more challenging. I thought to myself that surely things must start to get easier soon.

Arriving at Glenuig I could see the inn, steve was stood outside. The sun was shining and the beauty of the village blossomed in the autumn light. I crossed the Saltmarsh, a minor shortcut, and headed over to say hi. He seemed surprised to see me which I found odd seeing as the inn was so close to the loch. I was feeling quite parched heading on for roasting or possibly well done. Removing the various layers of jackets steve, quite amused by the episode,  offered to get me a pint. "That'll be grand, a pint of orange juice and lemonade please". I'm sure that wasn't quite what he was expecting but when I explained that I preferred to stay hydrated during the challenge he nodded and agreed. Along with the orange juice and lemonade steve gave me some of his homemade soup which by all accounts was delicious and judging by the specials boards his entire menu sounded equally as gratifying.

It was lovely inside the bar and quite relaxing. Hung on the walls around the lounge, dining and bar areas were framed photos of kayaking adventures steve had been on with his guests, they were really very good. We began chatting away and I was offered the use of the shower facilities and wash rooms and given a quick tour of the inn. It was all very interesting, the Glenuig inn has an extremely low carbon footprint. They recycle everything and use solar power for electricity. Steve has plans to go even further though and is investing alot in a smoke house and other reusable energy technologies.

I was then told that ann, whom I'd met at the post office, was offering me the use of an old caravan parked behind her cottage. It was now just passed 2pm and the local community shop had opened.  The shop was essentially a small tin hut but it stocked everything you would need on a daily basis. It wasn't far from the inn and steve let me leave my kit with him and allowed me to charge my batteries while I was gone.

Outside the shop, located just to the side of the single lane road, Jacob was measuring up. Jacob was a local lad and one of the shop volunteers, the community had drawn up plans to rebuild the shop to provide an information centre and coffee shop. The plans had been in place for 15 years and the community representatives were still trying to get approval and the funds together. I offered to help but Jacob had finished collecting the data he needed to build a model on his laptop. Offering me a complimentary coffee I milled around the store deciding what I needed to take for the next part of my trip and chatting at the same time. It must have been gone 3pm by the time I'd picked up a few bits n pieces and finished my coffee but it was interesting hearing about the plans for development and finding out the gossip about the locals.

I then headed off to find ann and to accept her kind offer of shelter. I'd been feeling weary over the past few days and thought that a good nights rest would do me the world of good. Glenuig isn't a very large community at all and it wasn't difficult finding the cottage.

Ann lived with rab, prior to renting the cottage they'd spent 8 years living in a static caravan on the shores of the loch without electricity or running water. The cottage was a huge change for them, "its like living in a cave" said ann, they'd been so used to hearing and feeling the weather as it pounded on the caravan season after season that being in a stone cottage felt odd to them. That got me thinking, I wondered how I'd feel going back to live under a fixed roof between solid walls. It would be some time before I'd find out.

We sat and chatted and the usual stories, highlights of the trip were told and discussed in detail and for the second time that day I was given a bowl of soup, homemade of course.  Ann had been given a slow cooker and had been experimenting with it. Once again it was delicious.

It was now getting dark outside so rab showed me to the caravan, a small tourer that had been stood for many years judging by the mould clinging on to the outside.  Inside it was clean and tidy and perfect and it had electricity.  Rab turned in the heating tube and we went over to the inn so that I could collect my things and join rab for a pint. Ann had said I was welcome to stay longer if I wanted so I'd decided to take the following day off and instead of having the usual pint of orange juice and lemonade I let steve suggest a good local ale for me to try. What ever it was, it was nice.

We didn't stop for long, just long enough to enjoy the drink and I grabbed my kit along with my pocket torch and we headed back to the cottage so that I could settle in for the night.

17th November

I woke before 7am, it was still dark outside so I turned over in my sleeping bag on the sofa in the caravan and went back to sleep.

Rest day. Being offered the use of the caravan for a second night I decided to take a rest day before heading off to attack the next difficult part of the trek. From what I'd been told I would have two water crossings and a small island to cross. It sounded like I'd have quite the adventure over the next few days.

It was Monday, the weather had been predicted as being wet. Sure enough peering out of the windows I could see it had been raining. The rest of the week though was supposed to be good, taking a today off seemed like a reasonable tactic and would give me body a chance to fully rest.

I don't know what it is about rest days but I seem to spend most of the day laid out stretched in my sleeping bag, I certainly don't ever feel like exploring or being adventurous. My muscles  and joints relax as I attempt to do as little as possible for as long as possible. Generally the process of making the coffees is the most energetic part of my day.

Although I'd planned to catch up on my blogs I actually ended up spending most of my day asleep,  I guess my body needed it. Later that evening when I'd properly got myself together I was invited to dinner by ann, tatties and sausages. It was lovely simply chilling with both ann and rab and not having to survive the weather or squirm around in the confines of either the coffin or under the tarp.