Sunday 2 November 2014

20th October

After being warned to batton down the hatches and brace myself for 60mph winds the night before I was pleasantly surprised to wake and find armageddon had failed to materialise but instead I was greeted with a calm autumn morning.

The porch I had been sleeping in was tiny, not even big enough to swing a mouse in let alone a cat and although I'd hurt my left knee the day before it was my right knee that was hurting whilst laying on the stone floor. I made my self a coffee and had a few biscuits for breakfast before packing my sleeping bag away,  checking I had a good charge on my phone and a reasonable charge on my solar battery. Satisfied I had a reasonable charge I left the porch, closing the door behind me,crossing the garden and leaving by the second gate back to the coast. The grass was still wet from the rainfall the night before but the storm I'd been warned about seemed to be holding off. It was actually turning into a lovely autumn day.

With the cottage behind me and a fairly baron landscape ahead I made my own way across the marsh. There were faint deer trails scattering around the hills so I just headed in a fairly direct line keeping the coast to my right. It wasn't long before I could see a huge deer proof fence thankfully there was also a tall step ladder enabling me to easily climb over. Below me was a gradual slope leading to a series of small stony bays. I headed down and walked along them. To my right I could see a salmon farm, a helicopter flying in and out on regular trips back to the main land. No wonder salmon is so expensive. Reaching the end of the last beach I was stopped in my tracks by a wide fast flowing river. I needed to cross it but wasn't able to at the shoreline. I followed the flow back inland,  an impressive waterfall feeding the river cascaded over a rocky cliff face.  Unable to go back any further I had to select a place to cross with the minimum amount of risk of falling into the cold water.

A series of rocks and boulders,  some semi submerged seemed my best chance of getting across.  I just had to make sure I was wel balanced and didn't slip. Slowly but surely I hopped across until I reached the bank on the other side. Climbing a small crest I saw another beach, a rocky headland ahead at the other end. I made my way down a began to hike across. Reaching the rocks I wondered how far round I'd be able to get. I climbed over the rocks and with the tide out I was able to make it to the next bay. Again I found myself in another bay, again there was a rocky outcrop which I wondered if I could negotiate myself round.

While walking towards the rocks I spotted a cave up in the cliffs to my left. Having not come across any in recent months I couldn't resist having a quick explore. I put my bag down on the shore leant against a large boulder and climbed up towards the opening. It was slippery but an easy little climb.

The mouth of the cave had a small dry stone wall built round it and just inside the opening the remains of a camp fire.  I climbed into the cave and spotted the bones of a deer. It all felt very stone age. I went to the back of the cave to see if it lead anywhere and peering in I could see a small tunnel. There appeared to be light coming from somewhere but I decided not to go any further as I wasn't sure what was happening with the tide and I didn't want to get cut off. Satisfied I'd explored the cave and there was no cave paintings I went to collect my pack and headed around the rocks into the next bay. I couldn't believe it, another cave. This was turning out to be a day of exploration. This cave obviously filled up when the tide came in, kelp washed up inside was good evidence of this. I still went in to see where it lead. Curving round to the right I went round the corner. Again light was coming in through a small opening at the far end. It was too small to climb through so I decided to get back to the trek.

I carried on along the beach to the rocks on the far side and once again wondered if I could make my way further along. Carefully climbing over the slippery rocks I kept going but eventually found myself confronted with a sheer rock face. It was the end of the line. I had no choice but to head back. As I slowly made my way I kept an eye on the cliffs to see if I could find a route up and away from the bays.

Reaching one of the bays I spotted a potential climb out. It was steep but it looked plausible. I began my ascent up carefully selecting my hand and foot holds as I climbed digging my feet into the soft peat and utilising a few birch trees growing out from the rocks. At about 30 feet from the bay I made my to a small ledge,  I was only about 10 feet from the top but decided to take a short break to get my breath back before making a go of climbing to the top.

The climb had been tough but the adrenaline had taken my mind off my hunger. The remaining few feet though were going to be even tougher.  There was very little to hold onto. The rock waa covered in soft peat and heathers which made it difficult to pull myself over. Digging my feet in and burying my fingers into the peat I made one last effort to throw my body over the top scrabbling up and over the heather till I reached the top. I was knackered and now safely on the top I sat down and caught my breath back a take in the view across the loch.

Rested I picked myself up and continued along the clifftop until I reached a small wood. Deer trails took me in and I followed them along rocky ledges and through the trees and slowly down towards another stony beach on the shoreline. Back at sea level I walked along, spotting the remains of a sheep. The meat stripped to the bones. It made me think of lamb shank and my stomach rumbled.

The terrain ahead was getting less challenging and as I made my way along I started noticing signs of civilisation,  twisted rusting metal frames, engine parts and rope. Eventually I came to a quarry, this meant I'd soon be following a road round to the next village and hopefully a village shop which meant food.

I hiked through the quarry, the machinery quiet and nobody around. Finding a road leaving the quarry I began to walk towards a dry dock, wood stacked high and the length of the jetty. This was the place the heaviest floating structure,  an oil rig, had been built.

I made my way across the jetty and out to a tarmac road which lead me round the end of the small loch to Kishorn.  As I hiked towards the village it began to rain. Maybe this was the start of the storm I'd been expecting all day. I carried on determined to get a few supplies to last a couple of days while my rations were posted to the post office at Lochcarron.

Walking through the village I found the old post office and village store. Unfortunately though it now only sold jewellery and small gifts, my nearest store would be Lochcarron, a couple of days by the coast or six miles by road. I had no choice I needed to get supplies as I wouldn't be able to last two more days without a decent meal.

It would be a 12 mile round trip. 6 miles there and 6 miles back. I set off. As I was walking along the road I heard a car coming up behind me. Its not something I normally did but I stuck my thumb out in the hope I'd get a lift at least to Lochcarron ensuring I'd arrive before the village store closed. Thankfully nic and fynn stopped. I explained my situation and about the trek and they very kindly offered to take me and if I wanted, offered me a lift back. Whilst driving to the village we chatted and before we arrived at the shop they gave me a usb charger to replace the one I'd lost a month earlier.

I went into the shop, which was also the post office and bought a few items and asked the kind post mistress if she'd heard from jo about the supplies. Thankfully they'd been posted and should be there by the following day.

Deciding to stay in Lochcarron the night so I could collect my supplies I let nic know,  thanking them for their help. Before they left fynn handed me a bar of chocolate and a backup battery to give me more portable power and allow me to remain more independent.

The weather was slowly looking worse, the wind was picking up and the temperature was rapidly dropping. Buying a box of cereal, milk, two cans of soup and a loaf of bread I left the shop and headed along the loch to a small woods at the end of the village to pitch up for the night waiting for the storm to hit.

No comments:

Post a Comment