Tuesday 25 November 2014

20th November

It was awkward getting comfortable on the slope but I did eventually manage to get to sleep although I was restless and found myself tossing and turning throughout the night. When the sun finally rose I was eager to get packed up and set off. I made myself breakfast and coffee, collapsed the coffin and made my way down from my perch to the stony bay. The tide was out which was good as it meant I'd be paddling while the tide was coming back in.

The island wasn't very far to paddle at all and the waters were calm and still. Perfect conditions for hoolley and I. Pushing off from the bay it didn't take me long to get across and begin paddling close to the shore towards a bay near the bottom of the island. I knew from looking at Google earth that this was the narrowest part of the Island and the best place for me to cross over to a bay on the far side where I could paddle once again over and back to the mainland.

It was a pleasant little trip with no incidents.  Pulling up in the small bay I dragged hoolley up on to the stones over the kelp and quickly packed her away. The hike from one side of the Island to the other only took 10 minutes or so and was very easy going. The bay there was much larger than the one I'd landed on and the sun, unobscured, shone brightly.  The waters were calm and there didn't appear to be any currents to worry about. Across from me there was another small, tree covered, island that I'd need to paddle round before I could set my eyes on the shores and determine a place for hoolley and I to land.

With hoolley back out my pack and setup for the second time that day I got myself ready and set off. Every time we go for a paddle I am always very aware that something could go wrong, my senses highten and I become very aware of my surroundings. With every stroke my eyes scan the waters ahead for potential hazards and my mind constantly prepares itself by running disaster scenarios over and over adjusting the parameters depending on where I am, how far across I am and the conditions of the water. At the same time I also try to enjoy myself taking in my scenic surroundings and watching the wildlife.

Approaching the island at a steady pace I adjusted my course to circumnavigate the tip, hugging its shore. Hugging shorelines is a safety exercise,  should I need to bail I know I'd theoretically be able to drag myself to shore and potentially save my kit too. What I would do on the shore is anyones guess but something I'd have to deal with if or when the time came.

Thankfully this trip was also uneventful and as I cleared the island I was presented with the view of an excellent example of an ancient castle looming over the loch stood high on a rocky spit. To the right of tioram Castle i could see a small sandy beach, perfect to land hoolley and make my from. It would also provide me with the ideal opportunity to take a little time out to explore the ruins.

The castle was a traditional castle shape, just what you'd expect to see during medieval times. It sat proud on top of a solid rock base and was surrounded on most sides by water making it a formidable fort to challenge. A small sandy spit, which I would imagine was submerged during a high tide linked it to the mainland.

I decided to take my pack across the spit to the grassy banks where I would continue my trek from before heading back and climbing the slope up to the castle entrance. The entrance had a large metal gate across and a warning sign indicating that the building was unsafe. The gate was open though so I went in through the stone arch into the main courtyard. The courtyard was overgrown by ivy and wild plants, ahead and to my left stood two tall stobe buildings that also formed part of the defensive walls of the courtyard. I headed off first to my left and began to explore the various rooms. Looking up it was easy to make out where rafters had been placed to provide platforms for the flooring of the numerous levels. The old stone spiral staircases were completely ruined and none of them went up more than a few steps. The other building was much the same although the rooms were much bigger. Although the Castle was a ruin it didn't take much to picture what it would have looked like in its prime. I felt it was almost a shame that it had been left in such a derelict state.

Happy that I had satisfied the indiana jones in me I left the Castle and crossed the spit to collect my pack and set off following the shore. Eventually I found myself confronted with a fast flowing river,  too fast to paddle across. A road ran alongside though and I figured that eventually I'd find a bridge of some description to cross. Sure enough the road did eventually cross the river, I was a couple of miles inland now though and struggled to see a way back to the coast. It was also getting late in the day now so I switched my priorities to seeking shelter for the night.

Seeing a sign pointing to a small village a little further along I decided that I would carry on following the road to the village,  I was sure there would be a shop or an inn I could stop at to get a few things or charge my batteries.

Well I was in luck,  there were both. An inn and a shop. Stopping at the shop first I bought a couple of packets of sweets and headed over to the inn for a couple of cups of coffee.

Whilst sat charging my battery packs I noticed a hand drawn map of the peninsula indicating old footpaths linking the hamlets and villages along the coast together. The map also gave me the start I needed to get me back to the coast, a junction I'd passed entering into the village. All I needed now was somewhere to stop the night.

Chatting to one of the bar maids I found out there was an old boat shed down by the freshwater loch next to the village. It was getting dark but it wasn't hard to find as there was only one road leading down to it and the road ran right next to the inn. It was pitch black outside by the time I left the inn and using my rubbish head torch, which barely lit the tarmac at my feet, I walked to the boat shed.

I'd seen ruined castles and derelict buildings in better condition but there was a roof and the concrete floor was dry. I lay my tarp down and got my air mattress out to partially insulate me from the cold, rehydrated a meal and settled in for the night.

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