It was a calm and dry night although a bit colder. I woke just as the sun was coming up, not that I could see it. Whilst boiling some water, which is taking much longer now, it showered a little but I was still hopeful for a dry day.
As I'd hoped the river was much lower and crossing using large boulders was easy. On the far side I picked up a track which soon narrowed down to a trail. Further along I spotted a post randomly proped up by some rocks. Further ahead I could see another, and so this continued. They were obviously way markers showing an old footpath, if you could call it that. Sticking as close to the rocky hills as possible but also having to cross open marshes I hiked my way between the hills. I could still heat the sea in the still air of the morning and often spotted herds of deer grazing, sometimes oblivious to my presence. It was looking to be a lovely day. There were large patches of blue sky with white fluffy clouds, none of which looked threatening.
I continued to follow the track which improved for a bit but then doubled back on itself around a hill into a ravine. Wanting to stick close to the coast even if it meant walking behind the hills I left the track to make up my own. As I hiked across the baron hills it got marshy, really marshy, I noticed a change in the rocks, they were now volcanic and very different to what I'd seen before.
After negotiating the sodden grounds with hidden bogs across the marshes I came upon a large stream. I couldn't cross it and had to resort to following it back till it shallowed and I could cross balancing on the semi submerged rocks and boulders. I was feeling marginally better than I had the day before and was eager to get a good few miles clocked up before I stopped.
A short way from the stream, across more marshes, I found a road leading back to coast passing rocks with names painted in white on the surface, obviously visitors to the peninsula and dating back to 1977. I was quite impressed the writing was still readable after so many years of weathering.
The road ended up at small a community with pro palestineon propaganda painted on boards and anti us war involvement although I wasn't sure who'd see it. The community was pretty remote and I didn't think they'd have too many visitors especially at this time of year.
Now back at the coast, somewhere near the top of the peninsula I headed up through some dunes and into the hills and back down to the small village of portuairk. At portuairk I headed back up into the hills again and over to come out at a caravan park, it was a little boggy in places but I was feeling very pleased with my progress and felt I'd travelled further than I'd expected that morning.
From the static caravan park I had to follow the road round to the point of ardnamurchan, Scotlands most westerly point. I arrived just in time to see one of the most spectacular sunsets I think I have ever seen. The sky turned orange as the clouds obscured the sun and a wide golden beam emanated up towards the heavens. It was emotional and spectacular. It was just what I needed to see especially at the most westerly point of Scotland, a pinnacle moment to cherish.
The sunset didn't last long and in the remaining light I looked along the coast. It was plain to see I wouldn't be heading that way. It was too steep and rocky and with a bad shoulder which I must have pulled a muscle in at some point I had to make a judgement call. Had I felt stronger I believe my decision would have been different and I would have jumped at the chance but under the circumstances I felt I needed to take it easy until I was back to full health.
I now had the problem of finding somewhere to stop the night. As I'd passed the caravan park I'd noticed a reasonably sheltered grassy area in a small secluded bay. It seemed like a good spot to pitch, with nowhere to tie my tarp to I decided to take the coffin out and pitch that. By the time I'd finished the light had gone completely. I was also out of water. Thankfully there was a small stream running nearby so using the pitiful glow of my head torch I went over, stumbled around on the rocks submerged by the bank and filled my bottles. I will not be recommending "summit" products no matter how much they pay! It was even tough trying to locate the coffin again after. But find it I did, and after crawling in I had dinner and quite quickly fell asleep.
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