15th - 17th may

15th May day 435

Leaving Fishguard i headed up to higher ground and began the days hike over the cliffs. It was a reasonably warm and calm start to the day which i hoped  would continue contrary to the weather forecasts.

With good weather comes great views and definitely helps with self motivation. I always try to keep a positive mental attitude and embrace all situations with at least a smile and on occasion a giggle. It was going to be a long day with my anticipated destination a small village along the coast called Trefin a good 19 miles ahead.

As with the majority of the walking I'd done in Pembrokeshire and in fact wales i knew at least the going should be relatively easy following the path and at the same time i also knew it would be physically demanding with plenty of steep slopes to climb.

After about 9 miles i reached strumble head, a large headland and psychologically my first challenge. From here i could see the coast stretching off beyond the horizon. I was still a long way off from reaching the turning point that would direct me back towards England and my final leg.

A short way after I'd left strumble i met a couple heading the opposite direction. They were extremely chatty and as we discussed the beauties of the coast i discovered that the husband had once set himself the challenge of motorbiking around on a 1920s bike in aid of macmillan nurses. It was quite fascinating.

The coastal path was now beginning to get really quite interesting with the landscape turning more rugged. I was actually quite surprised. I'd always thought that wales north coast would be outstanding but it was the southern peninsula that was stealing the show and it was here that i was to come across three friends off on a little hiking adventure of their own.

Mary, Andrew  and seb were all in their early twenties. Andrew and seb had lived in the same residence while at university and had been introduced to mary by friends. Still keeping in touch they had decided to take a camping trip along the Pembrokeshire coastline. I met them just as they were about to begin the first day of their adventure starting from strumble head and aiming to get to the beach at Trevine by that evening. It was blatantly obvious to me that they had never done anything quite like this before judging by the size of their packs and amount of kit they had hanging off them.

After a short introduction and chat we all set off in the same direction following the same path all with the same goal in mind. I kinda tagged along although i don't think they really minded that.

Trefin was about 9 miles away,  a fair distance to hike for any newbie. As we slowly clocked up the miles we chatted, joked and laughed, i introduced the guys to common sorrel and we exchanged stories. After about 5 miles we reached a long stony beach with a small woodland behind and a nice field of grass which would have been a good place to pitch up and make camp. Mary wanted to already call it a day but we all continued on together leaving the beach to climb a high and steep slope back to the cliffs.

As we ascended the path i was bringing up the rear and reaching the top i found the intrepid explorers sitting on the ground catching their breaths and taking a break. It wasn't a bad idea.

Having allowed our muscles to kool down we all got up and again set off for our destination. Clouds had now begun to roll in, the temperature began to drop and the wind was beginning to pick up. Gradually the miles clocked up and the chatter slowed down. I was feeling fine but it was obvious that the guys were now beginning to feel tired so i decided to take point and set a manageable pace spurring them on by letting them know we didn't have much further to go before we'd be able to make camp and relax for the evening.

Sure enough the next few miles went by and seeing Trefin in sight we all soldiered on eventually descending towards Trefin bay where we were expecting to see a quaint little beach to pitch up by. Unfortunately as we got closer it became apparent the beach would be uninhabitable. Instead of lush soft sand we were greeted by large pebbles and stones. Certainly not suitable for camping on. There was also a distinct lack of level ground and grass upon which we'd be able to build camp.

Mary looked somewhat disappointed and i could see her moral had taken a beating. I went over a calmly assured her that everything would be fine and that something would present itself. Sure enough as i scouted around i noticed a small sheltered patch of grass next to the old mill just large enough for the guys to pitch up on. Inside the walls of the ruins i found another very small patch of grass i felt sure I'd be able to camp on. It all worked out in the end and before too long camp was made, gin and tonis poured and evening meals were prepared.

With morale restored and smiles returned to faces the guys invited me to join them at the local pub for a couple of beers. Seb had brought a packet of cards and the evenings frolics commenced. Jokes began to flow once more as we played a couple of hands of shithead followed by a game of bullshit and somehow whilst discussing what we'd each packed into our bags, got onto the subject of the benefits of gstrings, mary had packed 15 and boasted that they didn't take up hardly any room in her pack stating how comfortable they were. It was just gone midnight when we left the pub to return to camp to get a nights rest.

16th May day 436

With yet another hangover albeit a minor one i woke and made myself a coffee allowing my temporary expedition party to lie in a little longer. It was sunny outside but there appeared to be a bit of wind, not that I'd poked my head out at this time to face the world.

With my head now slightly more aligned and after making another coffee and rehydrating breakfast i decided it was time to get the others up. Grabbing my saucepan and lid i went over to their tents and began banging loudly. There was a certain amount of self gratification as i clanged loudly above them. It only took a few seconds before mary kindly thanked me and slowly but surely they each emerged and the mornings camp activities began.

With canned food consumed and the contents of glass bottles transferred to plastic the guys lightened their packs and collapsed camp. I was already to go so i sat back in silent amusement watching the comedy slowly unfold before me.

Adopting the position of expedition leader i took point and led the way from the old mill to rejoin the coastal path. A couple of miles away we would take a quick break at Porthgain where the guys could fill their bottles with drinking water and re-adjust their kit and footwear. Porthgain was once a huge quarry and supplied the majority of the UK with stone chippings for use on the roads. It was a steep climb up from the port back to the clifftops and off towards a wilderness much like that of some of Scotlands coast.

Not far from Porthgain we would come upon blue lagoon, another small abandoned  quarry the guys had previously visited and where red bull had held cliff diving championships. Although i was tempted to make a splash there i didn't have any swimming shorts with me so reluctantly decided I'd have to revisit again another time.

We did however spot an ice cream van and mutually decided it would be a great place to stop for a welsh ice cream waffle with flake. Seb had rum and raisin, i had toffee and fudge, andrew had vanilla and mary had a callypo ice popsicle. From here it would be a long way before we would reach whitesands which was where i was to part company with my new friends and continue on to find the st davids lifeboat station.

A few miles passed blue lagoon we came across a fresh water spring set in a beautiful bay. Not really sure if we'd find any more water ahead i suggested we stopped for lunch and utilised the fresh water. I don't think mary really wanted to go any further as she seemed to settle in laying on her pack but being overruled by everyone we grabbed our packs and set off again.

The terrain was now getting more wild with steeper climbs. mary and andrew were both beginning to look tired and slightly distressed. Descending from our highest ascent i noticed mary lagging behind, her face was no longer beaming but contorting with every step she took. She had been worried about getting blisters and had borrowed some trainers from andrews mum. I dropped back to see if she was ok and called out to the boys ahead to let them know we'd be stopping once we got to the bottom.

Reaching the bottom i opened adams mobile blister clinic, sat mary down and placed her feet on my pack. They were a bit ripe which although i think embarrassed mary lightened the spirits a little while i searched for some cocodamol, a needle, thread and plasters. Treating two large blisters on each of marys big toes i turned to andrew to see if i could help with his problems.

Andrew had bought his hiking boots several years earlier but never worn them. The result of not breaking his boots in before meant that with the long hikes his ankles were now hurting and with every step the pains were getting worse. Applying sone arnica gave andrew temporary relief and as his needs were greater than mine i put the cream into his daysack to take with him advising that it be applied regularly for the rest of their holiday.

With another 5 miles to go i decided to take the lead and set a manageable pace pausing regularly to allow everyone to catch up and take short breathers before continuing. As we gradually approached the st davids point i thought I'd call out motivational quotes such as 'suck it up ladies' and 'pain is the first stage to becoming a champion'. They were met with a forced smile but seemed to keep the spirits up. Blatantly lieing about how far we still had to go also seemed to work spurring the guys on. Seb was doing  well though and walking at his own pace brought up the rear.

Eventually I could see whitesands a mile or so away and to give the guys obe last push pointed it out. You could see the relief in their eyes and we all headed along the clifftop path towards the bay. Andrew was very much scared of heights but his determination drove him on.

Reaching the bay i made sure everyone was ok as this would be where we would part company. The guys would stop there for the night and i would continue on to the st davids lifeboat station at st justinians another three miles further. As i walked away leaving the guys behind i knew I'd miss their company immensely and hoped we'd stay in touch and maybe have another hiking trip sometime in the future.

Arriving at the remote station around 7pm it was no surprise nobody was there but unable to pick up a mobile signal or any wifi i was unable to make contact so i decided to seek out some water and continue on as far as i could before finding a perch on the cliffs to make camp and settle in.

Whilst making up my evening meal i realised i was running short on supplies and would run out before next pickup. It was cause for concern as it would mean I'd probably have to go without for at least two days.

17th May day 437

During the early hours of the morning the wind had picked up and buffeted the tent quite violently. As i lay trying to get back to sleep i couldn't help but wonder if perching camp on the edge of a cliff was such a good idea. Doing my best to ignore what was going on outside i eventually managed to drop off again, poor choice of words.

The following morning i woke again around 8:30 am feeling a little tired. I boiled up some water to have my last breakfast and my attention turned to what i food i had left in my pack. Two main meals, a noodle mug shot and a packet of freeze dried custard. This would have to last me until at the very least Tuesday, four days away.

Making my way round the headland I reminisced about the time I'd spent in Scotland, the scenery was very similar. The only real difference was that in Scotland i hadn't seen many people, today however the coastal path was becoming a highway for weekend walkers with a steady stream passing me as i gradually made my way along.

Passing porthcais i carried on along the coast  the sun was breaking through the clouds and the colours of the wild flowers brightened my path ahead. The landscape was truly stunning. I was beginning to feel hungry though as I found myself approaching Solva. With limited supplies i thought it best to save my noodle mug shot for breakfast on Monday hoping I'd find a shop somewhere ahead where I'd be able to spend the remaining  £2 i had in my wallet on something small but filling.

Although I'd wanted to get as far as broad haven by the evening i was beginning to wonder if I'd have the energy to hike the next 10 miles which would take me all that way. As long as i managed another 6 though i thought I'd be happy.

Getting closer to solva i was able to pick up a mobile signal and send a text to alison and joanne informing them of my ration situation.  I was delighted when i got the message back saying a parcel had already been sent and it would be waiting for me in little haven. A few worms had just had a lucky escape.

Reaching the lime kilns in the solva harbour i decided to collect some water and indulge in a mug shot before continuing on towards little haven another 12 odd miles away. The views were still spectacular and the weather although a little windy was perfect for hiking. With plenty of valleys to hike round and just as many ascents and descents i was gradually finding myself feeling exhausted, my muscles aching and the temptation to stop and set up camp overwhelming. I refused to be beaten though and regardless of what time i arrived i remained determined to make it before nightfall.

Eventually broad haven came in to sight which meant little haven would be a short hike further. I arrived in little haven soon after and found the st brides inn shortly after where andrew the LOM for the little haven lifeboat station was waiting with my supplies. Somehow everything had worked out nicely. I was prepared to pitch up on the village green but was kindly allowed to use the crew room to crash for the night.