21st - 24th May

21st May day 441

It was a lovely sunny morning when carol and i finally woke from our slumber. The birds were chirping amongst themselves and we were able to fully appreciate the beauty of the ivy blanket and patches of blue bells growing amongst the woodland with trees forming a broken ceiling above us letting patches of sunlight break through.

We had once again over slept a little but that was ok, in the wild time has very little meaning. We cleared up camp and set off to visit the angle lifeboat station to meet the crew ans have a sneaky coffee. While chatting away to the lads it transpired that not far away we would pass an old tunnel system cur into the rocks.

My zest for exploration and a yearning to share a real adventure was insatiable and i couldn't wait to make the small detour to experience the distraction with my new friend. Following the directions we'd been given we easily found what appeared to be an old war time gunnery position which i would imagine was established to protect shipping and docks from enemy attack. Looking around the main complex first we then began following a clifftop trench to discover other gunnery positions and the entrance to an underground tunnel system.  Unfortunately the ladder down to the tunnels was corroded and after a quick wobble i decided further exploration was too dangerous. In fact with out my climbing gear there would be no way down or more importantly  no way back up. A little further along we came upon chapel bay fort which was closed but had in recent years been turned into a museum which i had no doubt would have shed light on our discovery.

I was really pleased that I had been able to show carol exactly what the trek was all about. Educational, adventurous with exploration and the sense of mystery.

Leaving the fort behind we continued to follow the coastal path and finally reached the coast much to carols delight. Taking our packs off we prepared ourselves for a small coffee break but chatting with a man who was looking around we discovered that a little further on we'd come across a small cafe so we gathered ourselves together and set off.

Thr café was ideally located near a gorgeous little sandy bay it was a lovely day so we stopped for a bite to eat, carol treating me to a panini. I  was tempted to suggest an ice cream but feeling full kept it to myself and we once again set off  eager to hike beyond a nearby firing range which unfortunately was live. The thunder of heavy artillery and machine gun fire ringing through the air. We did get a few miles hiking the cliffs towards the range though and on the way spent a few minutes exploring another old war time relic a strategically located heavy artillery position guarding the entrance to the estuary we'd spent a day and a half hiking round. I noticed a small entrance in one of the positions which when lit by my head torch revealed another underground complex, more tunnels. But without ropes to gain access was beyond further investigation.

I was really beginning to wish i had brought my climbing gear now but decided to make a note of the location to maybe revisit some other time. The way ahead was gradually becoming more demanding and i was discovering that although I'd hiked over 5000 miles i still wasn't prepared for the terrain the welsh coast consisted of. In fact with carol racing up the climbs leaving me behind i was beginning to feel unfit.

Approaching the ranges the explosions became louder and louder and on occasion we were able to see plumes of dust where the shells were hitting targets. Getting closer we could make out tracers being fired by the heavy machine guns mounted on the tanks. It was like being in the middle of a war zone. In fact at some points and now diverted away from the coast i began to wonder if we would at some point fibd ourselves between the tanks and their targets.

The coastal path diversion did in fact take us just inside the boundaries of the range but far enough away from the boys and their deadly toys. The evening was beginning to draw in and as we hiked along a small lane near to the base we were both startled when a badger appeared from a hedge and darted across in front of us. Although i had seen plenty of badgers in the past this was the first time I'd seen a live one and to be so close was absolutely magical.

Eventually the lane began heading back towards the coast and with the booms of the canons behind us we began to make plans to camp up in a nature reserve ahead. Stopping in a country pub for a quick phone charge and a drink we checked satellite images and maps carol had downloaded to her phone to identify potential camp sites. Leaving the pub it was dark and we knew we wouldn't get much further that day.

Finding a nice patch of long grass near sone trees and before a field full of sheep we decided to call it a day and settled in for the night. Just as we finished pitching up it began to rain and as we relaxed i hoped it would pass before morning.

22nd May day 442

Waking up at a reasonable time and quickly having breakfast carol and i were dead set on making tenby by the evening. It was a misty start to the day but i felt confident the mist would eventually get burnt off by the sun later that day. We packed up and left the field and headed towards the national park not too far away to rejoin the coastal path back on the coast and  away from the tanks which we could hear had started firing once again.

Standing on top of the cliffs we paused to take in the breathtaking views surrounding us. A forest a little way in surrounded two lakes which filtered out to a gorgeous sandy bay. The secluded park was stunning and most definitely a place I'd revisit one day to explore further and spend some time in.

As we made our way i noticed the rock that formed the cliffs were different from the day before in fact the formations were very different to any that I'd come across during the entire journey since I'd started. Coming across a headland we left the path and headed off towards the point to watch birds diving for food and carol noticed large jelly fish below. Some were enormous just floating beneath the surface.

The mist was slowly clearing but the skies  were overcast with fluffy clouds. We left the point and continued along the path and were faced with lots of hills which would mean lots of climbs. As time passed the clouds passed over and the sun came out, so did my legs.

Carol put her shorts on and while we were taking a little break a heavy mist rolled in from the sea. It was really quite unexpected. The mist was so thick and low we lost sight of sea, the path we'd hiked and the route ahead. Carrying on the coastal path with still very challenging with so many steps but we were nearing tenby and i think that drove us both on.

Reaching Penally point we passed through some mod land which I'd been looking forward to since the beginning.  It was the site where trench warfare was researched during ww1. There wasn't much to see from the ground as nature had done her best to reclaim the area but small trenches were still visible. An aerial photo displayed on a small information board showed the trench formations much more clearly zigzagging and winding through the grass.

Finally making it round the headland we could see tenby. A huge relief we were both feeling tired, our feet aching, our hips aching. The trek was trying to claim our souls but we wouldn't give up without a fight.

Hiking the beach from the headland with the town in sight we marched on but the town didn't seem to get any closer. Taking a short break carol disappeared up a sandy path to look for somewhere we could camp and ditch our packs so we could carry on into town and get fish n chips.

23rd May day 433

At 5:30am i was woken by the noise of the golf course workers driving some kind of contraption to the gate just a little way from where carol and i had camped. We weren't so stealth afterall. When we were discovered i heard them chatting, one stating when they spotted our tents how impressed they were that we'd managed to pitch the tents in the sand. As we emerged the workers returned and carol got a friendly wave.

Quickly we packed our tents away and began the  mile long hike back to town in search of a cafe to get some breakfast.  Unfortunately it was still early and nothing other than tesco was open. I got a couple of things to take with me while we waited for greggs to open next door grabbing a bacon and sausage roll when it did.

I'd been told that at 9am the station would be open so after filling our bellies carol and i meandered down to meet the mechanic and have a look at the station and their tamar class all weather lifeboat, charge my batteries and wait to be met by janet from the local save the children branch.

After getting a quick photo in front of the station i said goodbye to carol, getting a sad selfie and a hug before sending her on her way to the station to catch her train. Shortly after carol left i was met by janet from save the children who whisked me away for a full breakfast at her favourite cafe on the beach. Carolyn, head of the local save the children branch then joined us and arrangements were made to get me a new save the children tshirt to replace my now rather tattered and faded looking rnli one I'd gained whilst visiting the silloth station. Carolyn then left us while i finished my breakfast but soon returned to inform me that she had arranged a haircut at Christopher and Christines hair design.

Janet took me and after offered to wash the clothes i was wearing and allow me to take a lovely shower. Feeling clean again and treated to coffee and cake i went back to the station to cram rationd joanne had sent into my pack ready to set off and clock up a few miles before making camp a few miles away. As i was about to leave i realised I'd been locked in and the lovely lady who ran the shop had forgotten about me. I wasn't sure what to do.

24th May day 434

Despite my incarceration i had a good nights sleep. Thankfully the weather forecast which had predicted rain was wrong and outside a thick mist was all i would have to contend with. I gathered my kit together,  had breakfast and began hatching a plan for my escape.

Opening the fire escape i was able to get on to the platform that ran around the stilted boathouse but the stairs leading up to the clifftop was locked. Not so good for an exit strategy and even less useful should there have been s fire. I headed back inside.   Leaving the station was actually a lot simpler than I'd anticipated a simple turn of a knob and the door was open. I couldn't lock it behind me but i felt sure a volunteer would soon be down and the station would be safe.

After hiking through the town i picked up the coastal path quite quickly. The next few miles would consist of gorgeous woodland walks with plenty of descents to small bays and endless climbs with steps continuing out of sight taking me towards the heavens.

Although there was a heavy mist and a little drizzle i found myself getting quite hot and sweaty. In fact Scotland was now starting to seem easy in comparison and as for the pyrenees that was beginning to feel like a breeze. I did however notice my pace had picked up during the climbs despite my pack  now fully loaded with rations. As carol had pointed out, i wasn't doing bad for an old man.

As i approached Saundersfoot i began passing more and more hikers and a few runners. They were making it look easy. Both tenby and Saundersfoot are both tourist mekkas. The streets lined with bars, souvenir shops and chippies a hustle and bustle of activity. It had been a while since I'd experienced such a mass of bodies.

After stopping for a breakfast bap and coffee i grabbed a packet of tesco donuts and headed on with Swansea now so close i knew the english border wasn't far away. The coastal path was now following the promenade and took me through a series of tunnels linking Saundersfoot with the next coastal village, a holiday makers retreat. As i followed the promenade dodging the on coming hordes of tourists i could see a small section of coast that appeared to pass in front of the cliffs. A preferable route than going up and over. Sure it was rocky and the tide was still in but i felt sure the risk would be worthy of the challenge.

Back in my comfort zone i made good time bouncing from boulder to boulder and soon passed in front of the cliffs arriving at Amroth marking  the end of the Pembrokeshire coastal path. Ahead now i was unsure whether or not I'd be able to continue along the shore and felt fairly sure I'd soon be back hiking the clifftops. Stopping to finish my donuts i checked the satellite images which confirmed my fears.

The sun  was now managing to break through the clouds and it looked like the remainder of the day would turn out lovely. To celebrate the end of this section of the coastal path i stopped at a nearby pub for a refreshing orange juice and lemonade which was paid for by a lovely gentleman i had started chatting to at the bar whilst waiting to be served.

By the time I'd finished my drink and climbed over the headland the tide had gone a fair way out so i descended down to the long beach on the other side and hiked along it til i reached a huge pile of boulders marking the beginning of another headland. Like a tigger i bounced from one to the next carefully negotiating my route emerging into a small bay. Ahead was another headland but on closer inspection and checking Google earth i decided this time I'd have to once again go over instead of around. Thankfully though i knew that once I'd climbed over it I'd reach Pendine.

Pendine is a small village with a very long and  flat beach.  It is also where land speed records are set and broken in Britain. After a quick stop at the first cafe i came to i set off along the famous beach towards the estuary. My plan was simple,  at low tide cross in hoolley and save a few days hiking round. It was a good plan. The beach however was deceptively long and although flat and firm took considerably more time to hike than i had anticipated. Arriving at the place i thought would be the best to cross, the narrowest section i could see the tide was now on its way back in. The mouth of the estuary was very quickly getting wider and with unpredictable currents joining from three tributaries i decided a crossing that time in the evening would be too dangerous.

I had to adapt my plans. I'd have to head back towards land and locate fresh water and set up camp and wait. The sun was setting which meant I wouldn't have long before things would get that bit more difficult. Following the river back along for a few miles without finding any water I'd consider safe for drinking i eventually came upon Laugharne a quaint village with the ruins of an enormous castle. Thankfully it also boasted three pubs. I went into the first,  ordered a coffee and rested my legs which had taken a bit of a pounding during the day. I only managed the one coffee before closing time but with my water bottles filled i headed towards the castle to pitch up just out of sight of the locals in a picnic area overlooking the river.