4^th Sept 2014

Woke early again. Leaving the tent erected I decided to pop into the post office to let them know I'd arrived a day early and to get my weekly budget in cash. The staff were lovely and said they'd look out for the parcel at put it aside for me. While I was there I spotted that they sold avon skin so softly, I'd been told it was the best thing to use against the infamous west coast midges, so I grabbed a bottle. I then headed over to the Bettyhill hotel to grab a coffee and funds allowing, a good breakfast. I needed to pile on the calories to replace those I'd burned the day before. While chomping down on fried eggs, bacon and a potato scone I got a charge on my batteries and phone. The German tourists I'd met the night before were also there deciding to stay for another day to enjoy the views. I must admit the view of the beach from the hotel was amazing, you simply couldn't get bored of it, ever. Speaking to the wife of the owner of the hotel I was given permission to hang out in the lounge to bring my blogs up to date and fully charge my batteries while I waited for my supplies to arrive.

Around lunchtime I headed over to the post office, but before I did I decided to check on my tent and kit. The kids were back at school now and I wasn't sure if my kit would be safe where it was. Well I was shocked when I got back there thinking that the tent was comfortably out of sight and out of harms way. Somebody had urinated on it. Three people to be precise. It was disgusting, of all the places I'd been on this trip, Bettyhill was the last place I thought I'd have trouble. Taking my water bottle out and some wet wipes I cleaned the tent off looking over my shoulder at the lads playing football in the field below. No doubt it was one of them and if I'd caught them I'd have made them lick it clean. I checked everything out to make sure nothing was missing and headed for the post office on the off chance the parcel had arrived. Thankfully it had, at least now I could move on. I went back to the tent hoping the flysheet was now dry and packed my kit away. I then went back to the hotel to relax and finish my blogs. I'd already decided I'd take a short break and prepare myself for the next few days of the trek. That afternoon I moved myself to the bar to get an orange juice and lemonade before I left while I was in the bar I met three bikers from Wolverhampton who were out on a road trip around Scotland. A lovely bunch of guys who invited me to their table and join them for something to eat. Sat there chatting away and showing them a couple of my videos an elderly couple came into the bar. Gloria and Micheal had met the guys the day before thinking they were foreign. When the bikers left to retire from their days ride gloria invited me to have another drink, orange juice and lemonade of course, and sit with them for a bit. It was lovely chatting to them about the adventures they'd had, busking in London and visiting the queen Mothers casket at Westminster.

It was now getting dark and I was surprised how quickly time had passed. I bid the gloria and Micheal fairwell as well as saying gut nicht to the german couple who were also in the bar and grabbed my pack ready to try and find a place to pitch up near the beach. I left the hotel with my head torch on and set off down the road. I'd been told that after the bridge that crossed the river that lead to the sea I should take the first right and I would find a path that would take me to the beach. I was also told to be careful I didn't pitch too close to the shore as I'd find myself getting rather wet when the tide came in. It was pitch black and my head torch only lit so far. I had to be observant and make sure I didn't pass the junction. I found the bridge and crossed a little further on I came across the junction and followed the road down. I could barely see the road and certainly couldn't see the river. At the end of the road I reached a dead end. Looking around I couldn't see a path or gateway to pass through. I couldn't see a bean. I took my pack off and went in search of the path, a track, sign or anything that would give me a clue. Luckily the torch beam picked up a sign, I headed over. Yes, it was exactly what I was looking for. Turning around I then had the challenge of trying to find my pack again. I headed over to where I thought I'd taken it off. 
Sure enough there it was. I put my pack back on and made my way to the sign. The sign pointing to a gate. Passing through the gate I wondered what large animals I'd bump into and how they'd react finding me hiking across their field in the pitch black. I could hear sounds, they sounded like horses and finding fresh horse poo I hoped I wouldn't bump into them. Eventually I crossed the field and found the grass gradually thinning out until all that was beneath my feet was sand. Now on the beach I needed to find somewhere above the tide line to set up camp. Using my torch I scoured around, the mountainous hills strangely silhouetting against the night sky. After a short while, and close to the base of the hills I found a nice level spot to pitch up and get some rest.

4^th Sept 2014

Once again I got an early start and on this day I opened a blue bag of joy to reveal porridge and raspberries. Claire Gilberts sponsored supplies packed with high calorie packets of freeze dried food lifting my spirits ready for the day ahead. With a full belly I packed up my kit and set off following the river to the sandy beach. The surf was stunning, if only I had time to unpack hoolley and take some time out to play.

Once on the beach I needed to follow another river round to get up onto the bank on the other side. I looked at the river flowing between me and where I wanted to be I then checked my maps. It wasn't worth getting hoolley out it looked like there was a small bridge a little further up stream so I decided to go and find it. As I walked along the bank away from the beach I could see a trail that had been recently used, the footprints left by another walker still fresh. Using my newly acquired tracking skills I followed the tracks back to a small marsh, the tracks appearing to cross over and into a small woodland. I continued following the trail when I could see a small footbridge hidden behind the trees. Walking over to the bridge I wondered how safe it actually was. The wooden structure looking worn and weathered, well rotten actually. Across the span a sort of repair had been made, rubber mats nailed to the two telegraph poles that spanned the river. It would probably support an individual but would it support an individual carrying a huge back pack. Only one way to find out, try it. I stepped onto the bridge, the hand rails moving where many years of use had loosened them. I took a step, the bridge flexed. I carried on with a brisk pace. Reaching the other side I wondered how the two steel supported bridges I'd recently crossed had been condemned but this old wooden structure which was rotting was still considered safe. It didn't matter though I was across. A set of steps cut into the bank lead upwards between bramble bushes and ferns. I began to make my way up when I spotted a few ripe blackberries. I stopped and leant over to pick them, being an opportunistic forager just a couple of berries would help me to build up a few calories and provide my body with much needed vitamins. As I plucked a couple of the juicy treasures from the bush I noticed a drop of blood on my hand and then another. My nose wad bleeding. I took off my bag and took out a wipe hoping it would stop. After about ten minutes the bleed began to clot and satisfied that it wasn't serious I picked up my kit and continued up the bank.

Once at the top of the bank I joined the road that ran alongside the river bank. As I walked along the road I saw a small graveyard and in the graveyard a statue of an angel. Before leaving for the trek I used to enjoy watching doctor who and one of his enemies was statues of angels, I couldn't resist it I felt compelled to go in and take a photo. Knowing the link with the science fiction show it did feel eerie and weird. After leaving the the statue I continued following the road and picked up a track that took me up into the rocky hills. It was another baron landscape, similarly covered in heather with grass covered bogs like the landscape I'd crossed the day before except the hills and cliffs here were considerably higher and much more intimidating. Keeping close to the cliff edge I kept the sea to my right and walked on into the wilderness. After a several miles I saw a small island ahead. It was a lovely treasure island looking island. A single sandy beach facing towards the main land, rocky cliffs and grass covering the top. It was simply picturesque. I headed towards it to get closer. The sun was trying to shine through the clouds and it was feeling nice and warm. Reaching a lovely view point and feeling peckish I decided to stop for an impromptu picnic. I took out my solar panels to see if they would give me a booster charge on my phone, not expecting there to be enough light I was delighted when I plugged it in and the charging indicator turned on. I then took out a blue packet of happiness and boiled up some water. While eating the rehydrated asian chicken and noodles in a black beam sauce I lapped up the view.

I didn't feel like being in a rush but I knew I couldn't stay there so after packing away I set off again over the hills and across the bogs following the coast as best I could until I came across a small harbour. I descended from the hills down a slight slope and down on to a stony shore. From the shore and to my left I passed a small caravan park. Across the beach I headed up the bank and seeing a small trail leading back into the hills I climbed a fence and crossed the field towards the trail which ran along the steep slope of the hill and off into the unknown. As I began to follow the trail it started a steep ascent around the contours of the slope and out of sight.

4^th Sept 2014

The trail took me up to the top pf the hill. The view was even more spectacular than I had ever imagined. Enormous cliffs ahead of me which would easily engulf those that I had spent the last few days hiking. Finding the right words to describe the feelings I felt at the time is hard. To say I was overwhelmed, scared and in awe all at the same time simply doesn't cover it. I walked along the top and made my way back down to the cliffs below. Walking along the clifftop I could see the formation of an inlet. I walked over to it and peered over the edge. The solid rock walls fell beneath me into what appeared to be an endless hole. I don't think I've ever walked the edge of a cliff before where I couldn't see the water below. With no floor in sight and the cliffs being pretty much vertical I knew I'd have to walk round. I looked left to assess the landscape only to be confronted with an enormous steep slope. The front of the slope resembled the mouth of a huge rock monster. I wondered how it had been formed it was like a bomb had exploded inside a hill or a meteorite had impacted into the side of the cliffs and taken a huge chunk out of the cliffs. I decided to climb the slope a little way from the edge, a reasonably safe distance knowing that a fall from this height would surely kill me when I eventually hit the water below. Once at the top I couldn't believe how far I could see. The sun had now managed to break through the clouds and the day gad turned out spectacularly. On the far side of the gigantic mound was a sheer rock face. There was no easy way down. Looking along the peak I couldn't see any way down but I could see a scattering of cottages below. I started making my way along the top of this mountain in hope that eventually I'd find some kind of trail or path. I'd walked a few hundred yards when I noticed a shallowed but still incredibly steep slope. Initially I thought it was still too steep to descend but as I walked passed I plotted a potential route in my head. I stopped and looked at it from another angle. It seemed like a plausible plan. I went back and looking down made a final appraisal. It was a crazy risky way to get down but with the exceptional grip of my boots and a steady footing I decided I'd give it a go. What was the worse that could happen, a couple of broken bones, possibly a broken neck and back. It still seemed plausible. Even though I'd decided it was an insane plan I wouldn't know unless I tried. So I slowly began to traverse across the slope following the natural contours of the slope as they zigzagged there way to the bottom. I was still thinking it was a crazy mans plan as I reached the half way point, but as I got closer to the bottom the risk of injury greatly reduced until I was safely on level ground. Now I just had to cross the squidgy bog over to a small fence and climb over into a lushly green field. Looking back at the almost vertical descent I wondered how I'd safely made it down. It was a real rush. I then headed down another slope across the field towards a small white cottage. As I was walking along I had my eyes transfixed on my next challenge. I could see a small bridge crossing a small gorge and a trail leading up a steep slope. To get to the bridge I needed to descend to the base of the valley crossing a couple of fields before ascending a little track to another little track which lead back down to the coast and the little bridge.

Arriving at the bridge I wondered if it would actually take my weight let alone the pack as well. This bridge, although small was rotten and had an entire rail missing and the one that remained clinging on for dear life. I crossed anyway and started my climb to the top of the next hill. At the top there was a small cottage. It was extremely remote with no neighbours for miles. I carried on passed it and followed the road down to another valley below. I looked around for a way back into the hills but the slopes were way to steep for me and my 25kg ball and chain. Deciding not to take any further risks I followed the road along as it snaked through the hills. Several miles along I stopped for a short break, while sitting on my bag I noticed a cloud of midges forming around me. The little blighters landing on my arms and face. They were proper irritating. Short break over I grabbed my pack and set off again. Reaching the end of the road I turned right and headed to skullomie. Arriving at skullomie I found a track that would take me down into a glen and up towards tongue. I put my bag down and continued along the road to the place I'd hoped to have come out from should I have successfully negotiated the last section. Across from here I stopped to look at two islands joined with a narrow section of golden sand. The views just get better and better. I headed back to my pack and as I put it on my back I gazed up at a spectacular mountain across the glen. It was absolutely huge and would be fun to run during the winter on a snowboard. I set off along the track following it down the scenery changing from fields to a lovely woodland, a stream running through the middle. It was a lovely walk and eventually I found a bridge, a goid strong modern bridge. No fear of getting wet here. I crossed over and began to climb the glen still following the track. About half way up I came across a nice level grassy area. It was early evening and I figured this was as good a place as any to make camp.

The following morning I woke early. I was almost out of water, just enough for a drink, so I grabbed a flapjack that I'd received in my supplies and washed it down with a coffee. I then packed up and continued my trek to the top of the glen. Emerging from the forest I found myself on a road. I had no other way to go other than follow it. As I hiked along the road I noticed some more blackberries, so as I walked I munched from natures free supermarket. The sea was back on my right now, a small perfect beach surrounded by rocky cliffs and dunes below. A mile later I spotted weavers cafe. I'd been given a tenner by the Wolverhampton bikers in Bettyhill so decided I'd pop in for a coffee and something for breakfast. While enjoying a bacon and cheese panini and drink a family from Eastleigh, near Southampton, came in and sat at the table next to me. We chatted about how lovely Scotland was and they said how they'd like to move up. They left after a quick coffee and I went to leave shortly after. I went to settle the bill only to discover they'd already pais for me. I didn't even have time to thank them.

I picked up my pack and set off along the road. At the first available junction I turned right and headed back towards the coast. I followed the road down to sea level through trees and surrounded by blackberry bushes. Taking a carrier bag out of my pocket I began collecting the delicious fruits, munching a few as I walked. At the end of the road I should have turned right to cross an estuary, via a bridge, that was now between me and my trek. Instead I turned left to head for tongue. Margaret, the rnli fundraiser in Helmsdale, had arranged for me to meet her friend there. Although she'd arranged it for Friday and it was Thursday. I'd completely lost track of time and dates. Convinced it was Friday I made my way into the village. After contacting Margaret I realised my mistake. Oh well I was there now. I went to the local post office and using the tenner I'd been given I bought some midge repellent and with the change popped into the local pub for an orange juice and lemonade. Speaking to some of the locals about my intended trip the following day I realised how remote I would be. It was going to be a real adventure and there was the real opportunity I'd lose contact with everyone.

6^th Sept 2014

Leaving the pub I headed off to find somewhere to camp. In the centre of the village I found a small piece of grass next to the public conveniences, an ensiuit bathroom. It was only for the night so I set up camp and made my self at home. Just as I was about to settle down the heavens opened up and it began to rain. It was difficult to get to sleep and as the temperature dropped I found myself getting colder. Laying my fleece jacket over the top of me I eventually dropped off knowing that the following day was going to be a tough one.

The next morning I woke later than planned. I got up made breakfast and prepared myself for the days adventure. I headed back down the road I'd come into tongue on the day before and headed for the bridge munching blackberries as I went. Half way across the bridge I stopped off at a view point to look at the mountain ben loyal as it towered over the landscape, dominating the horizon. After a couple of minutes gazing at the breathtaking view I continued on my way taking the first turning towards midtown.

The sun was out and there were very few clouds in the sky as I made my way along the road. Once passed the rocky shoreline below I headed across a couple of fields and down to the beach. Walking along the sand I could see a grass covered rocky headland ahead of me. It was yet another obstacle that I'd have to negotiate in order to continue my challenge and successfully navigate Britain's coast. As I approached it I could see no way around down by the shore so making my way passed the dunes I headed up to see if I could get over it and proceed on land. I knew the day was going to be tough and that my journey was only going to get harder the longer I walked. Once up above the sea and onto the headland I saw a small trail leading around the small hill and towards a gate. It looked like a reasonable path and one I'd had no doubt was used by visitors to the beach. I headed for the gate and followed the path between two dry stone walls up a gradual slope to rejoin the road. The wind had started picking up now and seeing a small garage with scaffold stood in front with planks rested across I decided to head over to take shelter and make a coffee. While sat beneath the scaffold I gazed across at the islands across from me that I'd seen in the days before. Back home I'd been used to seeing the Isle of Wight when I went down to the coast and initially as I walked away from Southampton found it strange when I could no longer see it but instead a huge body of water. As time passed I got used to the idea that I wouldn't see it again until I was nearly home. Coming over the hills towards john o'groats was magical and seeing the Orkney Islands so close was a huge surprise and one that I'd never forget. Now I was sitting across from some more islands, small uninhabited, deserted islands. Along their shores I could see unspoilt beaches and cliffs with little cave openings. Grass covered the small meandering hills on top and I wondered what it would be like living there. In my head I drew a picture of my perfect home and imagined taking a small boat back and forth to get my weekly shopping. As a website designer I could literally work and live anywhere in the world, all I needed was Internet access and that could be easily arranged in this day and age.

I finished my coffee and stopped day dreaming about a lifestyle I'd probably never have, grabbed my pack and followed the road down a hill to a small sandy bay across from the islands. I couldn't stop myself from glancing across as I walked. The wind had lifted off by now and once again the day looked like it would be perfect walking weather and I began to get excited about the views that lay in store for me.

Down in the bay ahead of me I could see the remains of an old wooden boat. Its ribs sticking out from the sand like the carcass of a huge sea beast. Now broken in two the vessel had obviously seen better days, spending its life on the sea, most likely a fishing boat from days gone past now left abandoned to slowly decay serving as a focal point on the beach for children to play round and visitors to look at. Had it simply been abandoned or was it the remains of the tragic misfortune of those that sailed her. What stories of rough weather and triumphant hauls would lie in its history. It was a poinnient relic of our past, a fascinating find.

I then left the wreck and the beach back to the road which took me up to a junction. I had two choices, left or right. Looking down the right it appeared that the road would soon end at the bottom of some very steep gorse infested slopes. The left appeared to head off up the otherside of the hill and around till it was out of sight. I took out my phone to check the satellite images and help me make up my mind. Studying the terrain it appeared that the first road would lead no where and taking a closer look by zooming in it looked impassable. The second route however didn't vear too far from the coastline and followed it around to a small loch not that far away. Weighing up my options I decided to head for the loch. I hiked up to loch vasgo and continued along the road following the coast from a short distance. It was long before I came across another beach. I truly never thought that Scotland would have so many perfect sandy beaches but here I was once again standing looking down at another. Forget going to the crowded beaches of the algarve, Scotland is the ideal holiday destination with great views in all directions and very few holiday makers to spoil your break.

A set of steps allowed me to make my way down and onto the sand, a small river dividing the beach in half. As I crossed the beach I looked up at the mountain ahead of me, thinking to myself "I've got to climb over that!". From sea level and gazing up it looked enormous. "Berriedale, ha! Anyone that thinks that's steep needs to get out of their car once in a while". Near the shore the river fanned out shallow enough for me to easily walk over. On the other side I made my way up a small bank and crossed the grass to a gate that took me through a field and up to a road. As I followed the road my left heel began to hurt. It was a sharp stabbing pain which became more uncomfortable with every step. Deciding o should take the load off my feet and have another break so that I didn't make things worse I stopped by the side of the road, took my pack off and used it as a bench. In front of me was a quaint valley, green with grass, a narrow stream running through the middle and an unobstructed view of the mountains around me. The sun was shining hard but the air was lovely and cool. While I was sat there taking it all in and wondering what it would be like to live there and how much a small derelict cottage would cost to buy a metallic red land rover pulled up. I'd seen it driving up and down the road a few times that day, each time it passed we waved and smiled at each other. Gordon was from Glasgow originally and had moved up to the north coast with his family to get away from the rat race, the hustle and bustle of city life. Who could blame him, his sons had settled in to country life easily and one had become a games keeper. "This road is a dead end he said". I knew this and explained what I was doing and my plan to get back to the coast by climbing up into the hills. I showed him my satellite images and pointed to a small track I'd made out from them. "That's by my house" he said "when you get there I'll have a mug of coffee waiting for you". With that he headed off and I grabbed my pack. It wasn't too far to go before I got to the track and sure enough walking towards me with a mug of coffee and a giant triple choc chip cookie was Gordon. He told me to take the mug with me, it was one of those silver thermas mugs, the lid was missing and there was a rattle at the bottom and surplus to his requirements. Gordon then told me that after the gate I needed to take a right at a fork a little further up otherwise I'd end up back at the road to loch hope, after that I'd be on my own.

With the mug in one hand and a delicious cookie in the other I started to follow the unmade track up into the hills. Nearing the top I stopped to finish the coffee and devour the cookie. I then climbed the gate and continued following the track until I reached the fork in the road. Taking the right I soon came to the end and now I was on my own. I looked up at the mountain and began my ascent. At first it was simple, negotiating the boggy peat marsh hopping from heather to heather. I then picked up a sheep trail that took me a fair way up. It was still boggy but not as squishy as if I'd tried to walk through the grasses. As I slowly made my way up the side of the mountain the views of the surrounding hills, valleys, islands and mountains became more and more spectacular. My journey was getting more and more steep the further I climbed but when I got to the top I had a full all round 360° view of Scotlands north coast. It was amazing, I could see for miles upon miles. To say it was breathtaking is hard, especially being out of breath anyway by the time I got to the summit, but I'll say it anyway. Breathtaking!

Now I had my bearings I could see the coast and organised a route in my head that would take me down from the mountain between some hills, around a loch and over to the cliffs. I walked across the peak abd began my descent. The temperature had dropped considerably by now and the wind on the far side of the mountain was quite strong. As I hiked on I looked up at the skies, a big ominous looking cloud was now on the horizon. Keeping to the plan I kept going, headed for the two hills and negotiating my way round the loch. I then had to climb over a small peak, as I did it started to rain. The clouds had thickened and almost engulfed me. I guess I was still pretty high up amongst the mountain range. My visibility had also dropped from miles and miles to just mere couple of hundred yards. This was not good, reaching the top of the peak I'd lost my bearings, the sun being completely blocked out by the clouds. Now all I could see was a deep valley, the sides not to steep. I decided to continue on in the direction I'd come from and head across the valley. Whilst walking across the middle, surrounded by peat marshes, I stopped. I could hear heavy breething. It was me. I held my breath and listened again, nothing. I could hear absolutely nothing. The opposite slope of the valley was sheltering me from the winds and there was not a single sound to be heard. The rain was still coming down but only lightly now. I thought that maybe I'd been lucky and it was just a passing shower. The air was still very cold though but I carried on hoping to regain my bearings once I climbed back up for a better vantage point. At the top my visibility was getting poorer, I must gave actually been in the clouds now, still unable to see the sun I kept going in a straight line, focusing on a landmark ahead and not taking my eye off it.

Tge terrain was far from flat I climbed one hill only to have to climb another a couple of minutes later. I then came across another valley, again the sides weren't steep and I found it easy enough to descend. The ground was now getting wetter and wetter, the waterproofing in my boots unable to keep my feet from getting wet. My trousers were also soaking up the moisture and I found my hands starting to numb. I kept going, determined to find a coast line and it didn't matter which one.

Gradually I began to find myself getting lower and stood on top of a small rocky hill I could see a vast marsh, wet grass and spongy moss. My visibility had got slightly better. I turned round and watched a cloud dropping into the valley behind me. It was something I'd never experienced before and hope never to experience again.

Crossing the marsh was hard work I was getting tired, I was cold and I was wet. On the other side of the marsh was a small bank and when I climbed it I was confronted with the mother of all valleys. It was huge, with deep and very steep sides it stretched on for what seemed to be an eternity. I could see the coast now and thankfully hadn't strayed too far. I looked alonf the valley walls to see if I could see a way of getting across. No chance! I decided to follow the valley along knowing it had to start somewhere. As I walked I kept my eye on both sides looking for a way down as well as a way back up. Ahead of me now was an amazingly huge waterfall. From where I was I could hear the water plummeting down to the stream below. I also spotted a small rocky like trail on the far side. The white rocks standing out from the dark brown peat among the heathers. All I needed was a way down. I carried on a little further and decide that the side of the valley was now less steep and by traversing whilst descending I'd be able to safely make my way down. It was still risky as on small slip could find me sliding on my back side all the way to the bottom. Very slowly and keeping obe arm out to balance me I made my way down and crossed the stream at the bottom. On the other side I had to keep my balance as I walked along the stony trail, as I did I glanced over at the otherside and back at the waterfall, taking my mind off the task at hand put a footing wrong. It slipped but luckily I was able to rebalance myself and continue my way to the top. As I did I reminded myself not to get distracted when in risky situations.

I then made my way back along the valley towards the coast. It was now around 6pm but it felt later. The sun was still completely blocked by the clouds like a solar eclipse. A weird glow amongst the clouds made it look like the sky was on fire. Nearing the cliffs I turned and headed for another hill. Climbing up to the top I decided to begin looking for a sheltered place to camp up for the night. I carried on and gradually made my way down. After a while, and not seeing anything that looked remotely sheltered I spotted a cottage. Wondering if it was abandoned or occupied I headed over. When I got there I noticed that the front door was tied shut. I peered through the window and could see pots and pans hanging from a shelf and two chairs, one made from what appeared to be driftwood. I untied the door and let myself in. There were stairs leading to a second floor and rooms to my left and right. I went into the room on my left and realised I'd stumbled on a bothy. I'd wanted to stay in one since I'd arrived in Scotland and this one was really well maintained. I took my bag off and with my head torch in I looked around. There were cans of food on some shelves, granted some of them looking like they'd been there for quite sone time. There was a bench, two tables and some candles. I lit a couple of candles and noticed another door. On the door was a small handwritten sign that said "firewood". Perfect, I went in grabbed some dried heather and wood and immediately got a fire going. I then had a look round the rest of the bothy. Upstairs was cladded in wood and there was a room at each end. I then headed down stairs to look into the other room I'd seen. The door waa jammes so I left it and went back to the fire to dry out.

Sat in a chair in front of the roaring flames I took out my phone and turned off flight mode just out of curiosity. Unbelievably I picked up a signal. I hadn't been expecting to get a connection in such a remote location, and what was even more surprising was that I also had a data connection. I immediately got online and checked in with everyone and uploaded my photos of the day. I then made myself something to eat whilst feeding the fire.

That night I had a restless sleep, having weird dreams. I woke around 4:30am abs couldn't get back to sleep. Something was on my mind but I didn't know what it was. The fire was now just glowing embers so I stoked it up and threw on some more wood. I then proceeded to write my blog for the day. At around 7am the sun was coming up. It was still wet and windy outside so u decided to try and go back to sleep.

7^th Sept 2014

I woke later that morning, the wind was howling and it was raining so I decided I'd spend the day at the bothy and make the most of the luxurious accommodation. I needed to get some more water and firewood for the fire so I crawled out of bed and put my clothes on. My boots were still damp from the day before but I figured it wouldn't matter much as they were going to get wet again.

In a baron place such as where I was staying firewood would only be found down by the shoreline. There are no trees and the peat was soaking wet. I grabbed a large white plastic box and leaving the bothy I set off towards the coast, the ground was saturated and the first thing I noticed was the water running down off the hills around me like veins. The day before only a couple of streams ran by but on this day they had burst their shallow banks and the water was finding its own way down. There didn't seem to be any obvious path to the shore so I had to make my own, crossing the soggy grass hopping over the plethora of streams and walking through the marshy peat I made my way over to the cliffs and finding a small ravine headed down on to the rocky shore. Looking around I couldn't see any wood at all. Unable to go right I headed left climbing over the boulders and rocks which were slippery and wet from one bay to the next. Thankfully the tide was going out otherwise I wouldn't have been able to go anywhere. After about quarter of a mile I began to find small pieces of wood, not enough to keep a fire going and too wet to start a fire in the first place. I needed larger pieces and I needed dry pieces. Making a small pile I carried on. Every now and then coming across bits and pieces so I gathered them into piles to be collected on the way back. Eventually I came across a large bay that had an overhanging ledge, I'd hit the mother load. Nobody could have ventured this far before me and I not only found large pieces of wood but a small pile of dry wood. Enough to get a fire started so I could at least dry some of the other pieces out later that night. It was still raining and I didn't want this wood to get damp so I took a plastic bag out of my jacket pocket and put the pile in. Using the paracord I had in my trouser pockets, usually used to tie my pack to hoolley, I tied the other pile together to take back. I'd also found a large plank which meant that I now had enough wood for me for the night and enough to keep the next occupants of the bothy warm for a couple of days. I grabbed the plastic bag and pile of wood tied with the cord and headed back, when I reached the next pile I left them there and went back for the plank and other larger branches. In each bay I did the same, slowly moving the piles from one bay to the next like a firewood relay. Eventually I made it to the plastic box I'd carried down and filled it up. This made things slightly easier as now all I had to do was relay three piles. The bag and the pile tied with cord, the planks and larger branches and finally the box. Slowly I made my way along the shore until I reached a shallow slope that I could easily climb carrying the stock of wood. Once again I did the relay getting each package of wood to the top. Now all I had to do was find the bothy. With the bag and tied pile I headed up to get a higher view point. From there I could see the bothy about half a mile away. I put my packages down and went back to retrieve the rest. Knowing I'd be able to see the large white box from quite a distance I left it in a prominent position on the high ground so that I could easily locate it when I had dropped off the other pieces of firewood. I set off back to the bothy, as I walked I began to appreciate how difficult it would have been for those that had lived under these conditions many years ago before plumbed gas and electricity, before cars and quads. It had taken me all morning to just gather a few days of firewood and yet our ancestors would have had to do this everyday as well as tend to livestock in order to feed their families. I eventually got my gatherings of wood back to the bothy and separated the dry from the wet and laid the damp wood out to help it dry. I was getting hungry so I made up some breakfast and took a little break.

My next task was now to walk to the waterfall and collect some water. I took my hydration bladder and a large water container that had been left in the bothy over to fill them up. The rain had niw stopped and the skies began to clear. The waterfall was gushing down and looked amazing. I filled the containers up with the peat coloured water and headed back. The waters that run from the hills around here all look discoloured due to the peaty soil but its all good fresh drinking water as long as its boiled first to remove any unseen pathogens.

Once back at the bothy I was able to relax and type up my blogs allowing my boots to once again dry out and giving me the chance to admire the awesome views across from me. Later that evening I lit the fire and enjoyed the peace and quiet of bothy life. To pass the time I cut some of the wood down to manageable sizes and split some of the damp wood to reveal the dry cores. On one of the tables was an old bread bin, inside were some books visitors had left and among the books was a couple of visitors books. The visitors books had been written in by the many people that had stayed a the bothy and it was interesting to read about their visits. Naturally I left a little note too.

The following morning the wind was once again howling outside and yes it was raining. The sea no longer looking calm but fierce with anger. I no longer had any breakfasts as jo was only able to get four this time so I had my last flapjack and a mug of coffee before packing my things away and tidying up the bothy ready for whomever came next. As with the tradition of bothys I left a couple of things, the thermas mug Gordon had given me, some sugar sachets I'd acquired and some coffee sachets I'd recieved in my last supply parcel.

I put my wet weather gear on and boots, which were still damp inside, and opened the front door. Stepping foot outside the bothy I was hit by the force of the weather, no longer safely tucked away in the shelter of freisgill. I'd enjoyed my stay and will no doubt miss my haven in the nights that follow.

9^th Sept 2014

At least the rain had stopped. As I stood there in front of the bothy I felt a little weird, I'd be leaving the comforts of the little stone building behind me as I headed off once more across the baron landscape towards the unknown. Looking around I noticed a track heading off into the distance and over the hills among the heathers. Taking one last look at the bothy I began to start hiking. The ground was sodden with the rain that haf fallen over the past few days so using the heather as a guide and any rocks I could see I made my way up the track and followed it to higher ground where I hoped it would be firmer and less soggy and away from the bogs and marshes. The wind was blowing quite strongly which although was tough going meant that I wasn't being pestered by the midges. Once I'd walked far enough up the track I was able to get a better view of the landscape I'd be tackling during the day. The view was stunning and revealed an interesting array of rocky peaks and heather blanketed hillsides. I left the track which had now begun to turn inland and headed closer to the coast. As I hiked my way through the hills and between the peaks I noticed a gapping rip through the landscape ahead. It could only be one thing, yet another valley to conquer. As I got closer I realised the size of the task I had to overcome and the challenges that it presented. I headed down a small slope, temporarily loosing sight of the valley. I tried to make a climb to the top of the next hill to get a better view of the valley but the sides were too steep so I walked around it on the shallower slope. On the other side there was a small slope ahead of me and a great view of the ocean and the headland where I would be a couple of days later. About half way between the two landmasses was a small crescent shaped island that reminded me of an island I'd seen in a cartoon when I was younger. As I meandered over the crest I noticed a red deer staring straight at me. Then I noticed more. I stumbled across a small herd of about a dozen deer grazing on the grasses between the valley and the hills. I dropped down to my knees hoping not to startle the deer and to get my phone out for a photo but it was too late, I'd already been spotted and the deer scurried of awat from me. I got back to my feet and carried on towards where I'd seen them to see where they had gone to.

I could now see into the valley and along the huge gap between me and the other side. A raging river ran down the middle with large rocks causing waves, even though the wind was whistling I could still hear the roar of the water as it thundered between the valley walls. At the far end I could see, some miles off an enormous waterfall cascading down into the river below and to my right another valley again with a huge waterfall feeding a torrent into a wide stream. As I looked around I noticed the deer making there escape near the bottom of the valley. There must be a wat down somewhere nearby, all I had to do was simply ascertain where the deer had gone and follow their tracks. I went over to where the deer had been grazing and headed in direction they'd gone once they'd spotted my presence. It was a gradual slope that went towards the bottom of the valley. Near the bottom the slope steepened so I paused to asses the risks and noticed some ferns to my left had been disturbed. The ferns lead towards a small but fast flowing waterfall. I followed the trail over to the waterfall to see if I'd be able to follow the deer across it and down to the river below. Reaching the waterfall It didn't take me long to realise that although the deer had waded through the water it would be too treacherous for me to follow. Thankfully though the deer had also shown me a trail that ran alongside this spur that gradually took me down to the rivers banks.

Stood at the bottom I looked both upstream and down to see if I could find a shallow spot or slow running section that would allow me to cross over. I then walked along the bank following the river seeking out a point to cross. I found nothing obvious which meant I needed to get creative. I walked back towards where I'd cone down to and started looking at the large boulders strewn across the river. It was a bit of a gamble but joining the boulders together in my head like a giant dot to dot and taking into consideration the maximum distance I could leap with my pack on I drew up a potential route. It was a huge gamble, I could get wet or worse and my gear could get wet. Deciding there was really no other option other than to attempt to wade across I put my phone and ipod in a dry bag and went for it. Balancing on the first boulder I leapt to the second and continued across the giant stepping stones, each time hoping they'd be firmly grounded and that my boots would grip the surfaces. About half way across I had a choice, two routes presented themselves. I could continue directly ahead but the final leap to the bank would be possibly larger than I could leap and the bank was extremely steep and high or I could head upstream for a short while where the boulders were smaller and mostly submerged but the final leap would take me to shallower bank and a lesser of a distance away. Looking at both options had merits and dangers I just had to decide which would be less risky. I opted for the second, my boots had done well to grip the boulders this far and I hoped they'd continue doing a good job. I slowly worked my way across leaping from boulder to boulder keeping my balance and hoping. One boulder shifted and my boot slipped into the water but soon found its grip and held me in place. I kept going almost to the end, and with one final leap cleared the river and alighted, with a sigh and and a short kick of adrenaline, on the bank. I was safely across and I only had one wet foot.

Now I was across I needed to somehow make my way up the steep valley side to the top. I looked to my right, the walls that way reaching higher and higher and steeper and steeper as the valley reached the coast. Looking left looked like my best opportunity to escape this enormous crack in the landscape. I began walking along through the ferns until I spotted a potentially climbable route to the top. The slope started gradually but became steeper and more vertical nearing the top. Unlike the slopes around it which were covered in ferns and gorse, here the ferns only went up so far and then it became rocky and stony. I began to make my way up. At first simply walking up the side through the ferns a small channel cut through where water running from the top had flattened the foliage, then about half way up, loose stones, dirt and rocks. It appeared to be a simple enough climb and picking my route carefully I began my final ascent. Using my hands to grip strategically placed rocks and relying on good foot placement I slowly but surely climbed higher. Some of the rocks were covered in a slimy moss making them slippery and I found myself relying on my hand holds more and more my pack weighing me down and as much as it tried to hinder ny progress I eventually found myself at the top. With one final scrabble onto the once more heather covered landscape above.

The wind at the top of the valley was extremely strong, I'd been protected by the valley before and now exposed was feeling the full force of nature. I climbed to my feet and immediately headed over to a small mountain to use it to shade me so that I could reasses my location and work out which direction I'd head towards next. Behind the mountain I walked around the bottom to the far side and stopped for a breather. While I was sat getting myself together I scanned the horizon and the terrain I'd now have to negotiate. It was a boggy grass covered plain, a small mountain range ahead. Although there were small clumps of heather they were few and far between. I knew I'd have to be careful where I trod and keep an eye on the ground underfoot as I went. I set off and made my way across to the rocks before me. Climbing onto the rock I felt happier knowing that I was finally stood on something solid, I could now see a sandy beach below about half a mile away. I was also able to make out a well worn deer trail which seemed like my best hope of getting down and out of this bleak and formidable landscape. I left my temporary rocky refuge and made my way over to the peaty trail. Noticing fresh deer tracks imprinted in the dark brown peat I looked around. Upp near the base of a high cliff face to my left I spotted another herd. They'd already heard me coming and had started heading away from me, up and out of harms way. As I watched them leaving I felt particularly lucky. The scenery was amazing and it was like watching a tv documentary except all immersing. After they had climbed up and out of sight I turned to carry on following the trail I was now on. As I did I noticed what appeared to be a small loch surrounded by trees just over a ridge. Running low on both water and food I decided that maybe it would be a goid spot to stop, build a fire to dry out and warm up and hopefully catch myself a fish to eat. I could then carry on up over the mountain that stood behind it and follow the coast to the loch I hoped would be on the other side. I carried on following the trail as it lead me down the side of the mountain towards the ridge. When I reached the ridge I realised that the loch wasn't actually a loch but a river that rN down to the sandy beach I'd seen earlier. I'd need to somehow cross the river and from where I was standing it looked like it would have to be done using the pack raft, hoolley.