Monday 13 October 2014

9th October

I'd quite enjoyed my little stay in the unusual bothy, sleeping in a bunk was quite a luxury for starters and having everything you could need around you meant that the prolonged stay was no hardship at all. I couldn't stay any longer though I needed to make use of the good weather I waa fortunate to be graced with and make enough ground that day to get me to Gairloch where the local radio station,  which I'd been told was probably the smallest in Britain, was located. I got myself up and put on the army clothes roto had handed me. It was quite chilly but I soon warmed up once I'd rehydrated one of my breakfast rations. My boots had been drying out over the past 36 hours and although a little damp to the touch were at least less saturated and dryish. My socks though were still soaking wet and as for my "quick drying" trousers, well lets just say they were far from dry. Thankfully I had managed to dry out the other two pairs of socks which made wearing damp boots at least bearable and the army clothes that roto had given me were still clean and dry. Granted I now looked like a lost soldier but the trek wasn't a fashion parade.

Before leaving the fish tank bothy I reset the mouse traps and stowed the rations I'd not used or wasn't taking with me in jars. Making sure the door was secured I headed along the grassy shore towards the hills, and with the waves rolling in over the rocks I could see why roto had built his bothy there and spent his weekends camping and fishing. I don't think you could ever get bored of the scenery with sheep grazing, birds feeding and mother nature doing what she does best. Once up into the hills the landscape reverted back to the long grasses, heathers and marshes I had now grown accustom to in Scotland. Already damp it didn't take long before my boots were soaking once more and my feet squelching inside. Hiking the cliffs and looking out to sea I watched the navy playing their war games, small craft chasing smaller crafts while the larger boats hovered around I assume providing support.

Although my boots were wet the day was dry and the sun was shining. After a couple of miles I could see a small traditional stone bothy up on the hills above a lovely sandy bay. I was hoping that I'd be passing it on my way round so that I could take a closer look but the trail I was following took me below the bothy and around the bay along a the steep cliff slopes. Being a narrow trail and high above the beach below no longer concerned me and had become quite a normal and natural place to hike. Even arriving at a small landslide I clambered the loose stone and rock to continue my walk the other side. The trail lead me to the ruins of what looked like a small cottage perched on the far side of the bay, the view back along the coast simply spectacular.

Continuing on from the ruins I followed the trail until I reached a waterfall and decided to stop for some custard, I was feeling quite peckish and being it was a lovely day sat down beside the running water and watched the navy out to sea. After my break I began to pack up ready to move on when quite unexpectedly a gentleman, also looking out to sea, wandered around a corner. Being distracted by the views he hadn't seen me so when I called out a greeting his reply was "huh, you scared the shit out of me!". I don't think he was expecting to see anyone along the trail. Jonathan was an artist and writer and enjoyed hiking, being outdoors and building bothys. He also enjoyed picking wild mushrooms and foraging. We had a little natter and I asked if he had any tips for a newbie author. Being told to simply write from the head and compose later should I want to was just what I needed to hear especially as I have no idea about composing literature and had worried a little bit about trying to write a book about the experiences of the trek that people would enjoy.

With time moving on I finished packing away and set off the way Jonathan had come while Jonathan headed the way I'd come. Following the trail from here was easy and had been well used by hikers which was a good sign and meant I was heading back to civilisation once again. Passing the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula my battery on my phone completely died which meant that for the rest of the day the spectacular views of loch ewe would only ever be enjoyed by me set in my memories. Passed the lighthouse and just off away from the road the terrain was tough. Long grass and peaty marshes seperated by small ravines. Eventually though but after a hard slog I reached the mouth of the loch and headed up to the road that took me all the way to Gairloch.

I'd made surprisingly good time and arriving at the two lochs radio station almost an hour early I decided to go to the local shop and get a drink. On my way back from the shop a voice called out from the community centre car park. Jane had been following my journey online and somehow recognised me even though I looked like a failed army recruit. She was just dropping her son off at scouts and invited me to pop over while she introduced me to the troop leaders. They were all very friendly and I was able to get a get charge on my phone. I called alex from the radio station to let him know I'd managed to get to the village on time and arranged a suitable time for me to pop into the studios and chat with the presenter carol.

Leaving my old battered pack at the community centre under the watchful eye of the scout group I wandered down to the radio station which I'd been told was the smallest in Britain. I can say with 100% certainty that castle fm in Edinburgh is considerably smaller in that it only has one studio with a small room next door whereas two lochs radio has several rooms with an office all in a self contained building. Everso quaint though I must admit and extremely professional.

Carol was the only person at the station when I arrived.  Peering through the glass in the front door I could see a red light glowing meaning she was talking on air and wouldn't be able to hear me so I waited before I knocked. Once the light went out I knocked and waited. After a couple of minutes with nobody appearing from the studio I decided to wander round the back to see if there was a window I could grab her attention through. Sure enough there she was sat in front of the master mixing desk busy writing things down and lining up mini discs. I tapped on the window and waved. I think may have jumped, the second person I'd startled that day.

Once inside the station I felt quite at home.  The setup was very similar to the one I'd used when I was a presenter at hospital radio bedside in Bournemouth at the ripe old age of 16. It wasn't long before I had a pair of headphones on and carol had started the interview.  I think it went quite well. After our little chat the studio recieved a call, there was a rucksack with some goodies waiting for me outside the studio, hung up on the door. It had been left at the local pharmacist for me as a replacement for mine which now was looking quite sorry for itself. On my way out I collected the pack and headed back to the community centre for a coffee and chat with the scout troop leaders who found my journey quite intriguing. Once the troop had finished for the night I headed off to the myrtle bank hotel to get myself a drink, a quick charge and to use their wifi.

Sat in the bar area I began to chat to an elderly couple who visited Gairloch regularly, staying at the hotel. Whilst chatting away I asked them if they knew what islands I could see from the end of the loch. To my surprise it was the Isle of skye. I hadn't thought that I had come so far south already and certainly did not think the island would be that close to the main land. As we chatted the owner of the hotel, Sean, came into the bar and finding out about my challenge offered me a meal and desert. It was delicious and the sticky toffee pudding was enormous. Just as I finished up an Australian tourist started chatting away. He was on his way home the following morning and wondered if I'd like to take a bottle of single malt off his hands as he didn't want to try to take it through customs. Seeing as I would be spending the following day with Josephine and Peter I figured why not.

Leaving the hotel, stomach full and a rather large bottle in my hands I headed over back to the community centre car park where I'd spotted a bit of grass to camp on. I messaged Josephine to let her know where I was stating that if she followed the signs to the public toilets they'd be able to easily find me.

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